The Oh Fishall Fuel Pump Thread

[farmshop]

Consider yourself lucky sammm here in the rust belt the straps would have rusted away dragging the tank down the road or the metal top of the pump would have a hole rusted in it. I would look at all the connections you can see for the pumps for corrosion. Low power is hard on dc motors

[farmersammm]

Delphi pump............$135 Limited Lifetime Warranty..............Autozone
Master Pro.........$55 1yr Warranty...........Oreilly
Precision.........$104 Limited Lifetime Warranty (I guess, according to website).....Oreilly

Fuel filler hose WITHOUT little hose from neck.........anywhere from $39/ft at Oreilly, to about $45 for 3ft at Amazon. I might be able to eliminate the center hose by drilling larger holes in the stupid filler neck thing to allow air to escape, dunno. Offhand, this might be another can of worms. On a quick look, it appears that Ford has done what they're famous for Two different inside diameters on either end of a hose. This is to force you to buy their hose WHICH IS OBSOLETE If need be, I'll machine a damn adapter, and use two different size hoses

And.........gotta find a good solvent to clean the plastic tank without damaging it.

Me, and K'kins convened a Master Summit out by the truck, and she agreed with me that..........if I gotta buy this aftermarket garbage, I should replace both pumps so I have a backup to get home if one fails on the road.

If the float isn't bobbing around somewhere in the back tank, it looks to be almost impossible to find a new sending unit less than $100 I'll run the F'r without one. Or maybe there's a good one in my donor truck I picked up about 6yrs, or so, ago. Hate to run a pump dry, although I do it all the time on the little pickup.

[farmersammm]

Oh yeah.............this truck has a single relay for the fuel pumps. It's actually the way I pump water out of the tank when it gets contaminated. Run the water out through the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.......only way to get it out.....can't siphon the tank for some reason.....never can get the hose to hit the bottom of the tank. I just jump the connectors at the relay to keep the pump running.

[farmersammm]

Did the pumps in my 93 F150 last fall. Pulling the bed was not a big deal, especially using a 2 post lift. Did a rear pump last spring from underneath and this was way better. Especially since one of the connectors had a bad clip. That was a PITA to get apart, even with the bed off. Easy enough to put a new clip in it once I got it off though and the local NAPA had them in stock.

Watch the quality of the pump you get. Reason I was back in there was the 4-5 month old pump was not putting out enough pressure. 4.9s will not run right if the pressure is in the mid 30s, has to be over 40.

IIRC, have to look at the manual, the 4.9 actually runs at a higher pressure than the V-8's. My 460 is spec'd at 30psi at idle, and 45psi at throttle. (It currently only puts out 40 at throttle, and the needle bounces all over the place since I replaced the fuel filter......the old filter was blocked, and acted as a damper to reduce fluctuations). The 4.9 is spec'd at 45psi at idle, and 60psi at throttle. (I did check the manual)

None of these engines will run for crap with low fuel pressure. The injectors are timed (duration) by the PCM, and if the pressure isn't right, the engine gets starved. This is why my 460 has a crap power band as it sits now........never can put your foot in it.....it just looks back at ya, and shrugs. The 4.9 is getting the same way, although it's probably getting a blocked CAT, which will do the same thing.

I really like these new trucks, but if everything isn't just absolutely spot-on, they run for crap. The old ones.......clean the carb every few years, and just drive it.

I always say I wouldn't own one of the newer trucks......... I might have misspoke. We had to borrow one of the company trucks from K'kins boss to pull a trailer bein' as the 1 ton is down. THAT THING REALLY PULLED NICE.......EVEN WITH THE DINKY LITTLE MOTOR IT HAS. It has the 6spd transmission, which was weird. For no reason, it'll shift down, and run the motor up to pretty high revs...........but it does pull nice. Ford Super Duty.........dunno the year, but it's pretty new. I don't like the seats, or anything about the interior, but that's just me.

[farmersammm]

"New trucks" I still think a 1994 us new

[shortfuse]

I keep getting a "502 Bad Gateway" on sammm's thread. Anyone else having gateway problems?

[Meltedmetal]

Yes, page 2 of this thread.

[Robb M.]

test post

[farmshop]

For fixing filler necks I have gone to my local muffler shop and had them bend and expand pipes to fit up to the existing piece and then a universal piece of hose. We had a similar style Ford with a flat bed that had trap doors to the filler so they were pretty simple

[whtbaron]

test post

It's page 2, not this one

[farmersammm]

Picked up one of the pump today (going with the Precision pumps from Oreilly), but contrary to what it said on their website, they only had the one in stock. Other one is supposed to arrive tomorrow morning.

The rear tank, which is made of plastic, is marked as to what type of plastic it is. I guess I'll have to do some research to see what solvent is safe with that kind of plastic. I don't see soap, and water, doing the trick on this thing. It's layered with sticky, AND hard varnish.

I'm pretty sure gasoline is good enough to wash enough of the varnish into the fuel lines to crap up the system, but I don't think it will make a good solvent to get rid of the stuff before I install the pump.

New tank is pretty cheap, all things considered (about $100), but the lock ring is different(mine screws on), and I'm not sure they're exact fit.

[Zimm]

Seems to me that cleaning the old one in place would make it hard to get all the crap out of it. Best to pull it, so you can dump it out. Some radiator shops can clean tanks, but don't know about plastic. Mine are both steel and have not been out of service for any length of time. Both looked clean when I changed the pumps last fall. Drove mine 150 miles yesterday with no problems. Now, if can find time to change the oil pan gasket and shift rod seals, it might leak less oil. Thats a PITA job. Been there and done that.

[farmshop]

I’d start with a piece of chain and a gallon of gas sloshed around in it. I wonder if a product like sea foam would take that stuff out. It’s supposed to be safe for tanks and designed to clean up fuel systems

[farmersammm]

I'll find out tomorrow. It's been too messy weather-wise to do anything. Dropping the tank is about a 10 minute job with the bed off, so I'm hoping it cleans up well.

Gasoline does sound reasonable. I think everything that's below the stale gasoline is still in solution, so the rest of it might go into solution if the tank is shaken with some gas in it.

[farmersammm]

I cannot imagine doing this with the bed on. It's a total PITA

Despite having the bed off, the tank still has to be removed from underneath. No way around it..........it's the way the straps, and skid plate are designed.

All the weight is on the skid plate, the straps on top of the tank only hold it firm.

And down she comes...............

More power washing in store I guess.

The tank is impossible to fully drain. The filler neck has an extension tube that goes about 4" inside the tank.......so you can't drain fuel here.

The lock ring flange is not in an area that allows gas to pool, and find the opening.

So...........It' gonna be a mop up operation with a rag. From start to finish, even when cleaning.

I've looked for a new tank. They don't exist. Any tanks available would have to be jury rigged to fit, which means that the pump is gonna be different too. It's simply not feasable. Wish it was.

Gonna go get about 10gal of gas tomorrow, and start the clean out process I decided to start with gasoline, and hope it works. Everything I've read says that the ethanol blended gasoline is a terrific solvent for varnish, and sludge.............which makes it perfect for clogging fuel filters. This wouldn't be a problem (I had the same problem with the old Power Wagon) if it was a low pressure system, and ya just mounted a filter somewhere accessible along the frame rail so's you can take it off, and blow it out when the motor shuts down. This truck has a different type of filter that's an o-ring fit........can't be replacing those in a minute on the side of the road, and they can't simply be dumped out to get rid of the crud, they have to be replaced. This tank has to be CLEAN

The ticks had a nice meal too

[M J D]

Acetone works really well for dissolving that crap. Air brake antifreeze does pretty good as well.

[Zimm]

Don't be smokin a ciggie while you are doing the clean out. Sammy go BOOM!! is not the desired outcome.

[farmersammm]

I wound up using E-85 gasoline because it's cheap,, and easy to come by. It worked great. The dish brush didn't really cut it, so I wound up using a stainless steel pot scrubbing pad. Luckily this is a big tank with a big opening,, so you can get your arm in there.

If you're up to your elbow in a tank, you're dangerously close to the fumes. I decided to use a forced air respirator to keep the stuff out of my lungs. I've had this for quite a while. I can't believe what they get for them these days I bought this thing way back when I built my little flatbed trailer. I almost killed myself shooting paint underneath the deck.

The gasoline did a great job on the varnish, but it was almost impossible to get out of the tank. So........I resorted to a power washer, and kept flushing the thing out.

When everything was wiped down, and dried, there was a light yellow dust all over the entire inside of the tank. I'm assuming this was sulfur. I know fuels have some sulfur in them, so that was my guess. I dampened a sponge with water, and repeatedly wiped the inside out until I got rid of it.

Total time, about 2hrs

I might sponge some gasoline all over the inside just to check if there's any varnish left, then I guess it's ready to install. But not before I do a bit of work on the skid plate.

[farmersammm]

More time I'll never get back

Lotta doggone time spent on a 27yr old truck. Had to be done.

The ugly side. The metal is so rotten that it's pin holed in about a bazillion places, but I don't care to mess around for more hours rebuilding the stinkin' skid plate. Coat of paint probably last another 5yrs (shrug) The truck is costing us some serious coin when it just sits in the shop.

The paint is about 2hrs old. Got 'er done in time to kick off the evenings festivities. I'm surprised it leveled out as well as it did. The wind was gusting to 35 today. Always seems to be windy when ya gotta paint.

[farmersammm]

I really don't understand why folks get weird results when painting. Orange peel is a function of a thinner/reducer that flashes too fast, thereby failing to allow the paint to level out properly. Banding is a function of spacing passes too far apart.........always do the next pass exactly overlapping 1/2 of the previous pass. Paint wet, and move fast. Thin paint requires more passes, but it's about the finish.

Last coat should be a "thinner" coat. Reduce that paint till it flows like water, and do a very fast wet last coat to burn into the previous passes, and let them level. It'll look strange at first............the paint will look foggy/cloudy, but when the thinner flashes, the gloss comes up like magic.

Use the slowest thinner/reducer you can get your hands on. Slow flashing, wet, coats =

I F'N HATE PAINTING

[duaneb55]

You do realize the rest of the truck is going to be very jealous now Samm.

[farmersammm]

You do realize the rest of the truck is going to be very jealous now Samm.

My luck, somebody will confuse the thing for a 2021 F-350, and steal it

[farmersammm]

Things are progressing at a snail's pace. I keep finding stuff that needs replacing.........mostly rubber gaskets, and grommets. A $6 grommet can stall the whole works, especially on a weekend.

The rear tank is installed, and the pump works. I believe that cleaning the contacts inside the sender/hanger unit solved the electrical problem.

However..................the tank isn't water tight (or fuel tight for that matter). The grommet that seals the vapor return valve is defective. I didn't notice it when I tore it down. The plan was to just silicone the edges, and run the truck till I could get a new one, but I found out that the silicone I have, is not resistant to gasoline.

The front pump should be in by early morning, and the truck drivable. But only enough to roll it out of the "shop", and make room for the bed, which has some mild rework issues. That should kill the rest of the day.

The bed rework involves a bit of welding, and redesigning the mounts. It's too hard to remove/install because the mounts fit too tightly. I need to cut the spacers off on one side,, and convert them to removable shims. This will give me 3/8 slop for removing/installing the bed in the future............I'm just too precision now, and it's come back to bite me in the butt. It was a mistake, but it's a fairly easily remedied mistake. I redesigned the mounts back when I originally pulled the bed off about 13yrs ago to build a new gooseneck hitch. I just wasn't thinking when I put it back together. I should note that the bed was WELDED to the frame when I bought the truck

[farmersammm]

Got 'er all back together, and the F'N FRONT PUMP SPINS SLOWER THAN THE REAR PUMP.

G.D. AFTERMARKET CRAP. NOW IT'S BACK TO THE PARTS STORE

[farmersammm]

I shoulda checked them both before even hooking them up. That one is on ME.