Lincoln 225 ACDC or Miller Thunderbolt

[M J D]

How will that change with a different welder?



I'm not a professional welder, and have said that many times...just an enthusiast who likes welding, welders and making things. I'm pretty certain nothing will enlighten you.

I gather that the OP was looking for a more portable option or maybe already has a smaller generator. I believe it is possible to have more than 1 generator.

[FlyFishn]

I agree with the stated assessment of the SA200, I have a great 1966 red face model so I know something about them. They were a purpose built machine for welding and they still do that very weld. Pure DC arc is a beauty to behold that’s why they still have a cult following....

If you ever get a chance to weld with one you’ll see what I mean.

Down the road I'd like to acquire one. Not sure how far down the road that will be, but certainly not in the near future. An inverter machine is all that fits the cards at the moment on my end. When I do my long trips I already have generators along and I can't imagine needing to weld anything extraordinarily heavy - and where I may find myself welding, at least for now, there is commercial power.

[FloridaAl]

Thanks and update from Florida Al in the Deep South.
I have purchased the ESAB 180i and some Lincoln Excaliber 3/32" 7018 rods. Pushed my small time, retired budget a bit. But, I can finally keep an arc going again. My garage practice/learning welds look like Fido's rear end, but I pounded one with a hammer and it held. (redneck style QC. ) Now I'm working on improving.
Reading all the replies was very educational. I sincerely appreciate every reply.
Thank you, everyone.

[BMX Welder]

I'm Pretty new here and just in my third year of training as a welder but my dads been welding for 30 some years. He said find a weld n power and sell the generator you have. The 225s are only 500#'s and can be loaded with the smallest high lift or engine crane and if you want to get serious you can run a feeder. The smaller models can be load by two men without much effort and the older ones had a crank or pull start on the back, Often handy when not used regularly because you don.t need to buy a new battery every time there's a small repair. Just drain the gas when your done and they will come back to life on demand. They had lots of them at work and run and weld good. The ones with the Onan engines seemed to be more reliable. Keep an eye on the construction auctions the old man has bought and sold a few for a couple hundred. Once folks find out there is a new welder in the neighborhood you can get popular.

[SquirmyPug]

Thanks and update from Florida Al in the Deep South.
I have purchased the ESAB 180i and some Lincoln Excaliber 3/32" 7018 rods. Pushed my small time, retired budget a bit. But, I can finally keep an arc going again. My garage practice/learning welds look like Fido's rear end, but I pounded one with a hammer and it held. (redneck style QC. ) Now I'm working on improving.
Reading all the replies was very educational. I sincerely appreciate every reply.
Thank you, everyone.

I read through this whole thread and the last post noticed that you're in Jacksonville. If you're close enough and want a little help figuring out the 7018, let me know and I might be able to stop by and bring some 1/8" and 5/32" 7018 plus what ever 6010/11 I have for you to try. Could possibly even bring my Maxstar for you to try tig welding if you wanted.

[52 Ford]

I read through this whole thread and the last post noticed that you're in Jacksonville. If you're close enough and want a little help figuring out the 7018, let me know and I might be able to stop by and bring some 1/8" and 5/32" 7018 plus what ever 6010/11 I have for you to try. Could possibly even bring my Maxstar for you to try tig welding if you wanted.

Take the Airco!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[SquirmyPug]

Take the Airco!

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That machine hasn't moved in probably 35-40 years.. it's on a stand so if you want to come crouch down under it you might be able to lift with your legs to carry it to my truck I'll even use an excavator or skidsteer to lift it onto the truck so you don't have to

[Zanemahoney]

Hey guys new here I have a Miller thunder bolt and the threaded rod through the top is stripped out for a 1” area is there any way to replace this

[Sparkie1957]

I think there is a pin that locks the crank to the adjusting rod. If you can get that off you might be able to move the shunt out of the transformer and replace the threaded rod. Take measurements and pictures. It’s been awhile since I messed with one. Download the Miller parts manual, the exploded drawing might help


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[BD1]

Hey guys new here I have a Miller thunder bolt and the threaded rod through the top is stripped out for a 1” area is there any way to replace this

Post a photo for an accurate reply.
Is this for the crank adjustment ?
Which machine ?? There's an AC and AC/DC and different models of each.
The serial number will tell the yearc, Check the Miller site.


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[Sberry]

I have old stuff, I still use it more than the new but for any kind of field work me wants a new 15# dvi. It was a limitation, a wall that has been a pain in the azz for a long time and they fixed it with that. 95 smokin amps from 20A 120 and welds good. Local infinite control right at the machine. Runs well from long cords. Can run 1/8 from a better circuit. Can now buy new for the cost of a used DC buzzer.

[Sberry]

There is no doubt a used 250 is a good machine,,,, good if you need it, have the space and the power, great shop machine for a small excavator company, trucking where a guy wants to burn on a can of 5/32 lo hy right regular. Good machine for addtion, good if a guy already owns it. My personal prefference is new if I didnt already have new. I wanna use it, so much easier today and really prefer factory cord and plug 50A connection if I got to have more power than I can get from 120. A new Hobart CI 200 will run 5/32 lo hy right along probably as many as II really want. That is a bench mark. The bench for the buzzer version is 1/8 but dang,,, a lunchbox can run those too.
I got a 300 sits there, never use it and still use the 125 buzzer. In the shop I actually use 1/8 6011 and 3/32 lohy most of the time, 1/8 occasionally but really do it for the practice most of the time, if I need to get something welded in a hurry its wire.
Main thing I would ever use 5/32 is field and heavy hitch related type things where want heavy 1 pass out of position.
My helper wondereed the other day why the rods in the shop and not wire and I mention that I have some field work coming up and really need a little practice.

[Sberry]

I remember the last time I thought I might have to test, said, gonna go run a rod or 2 and see if its there,,,, shate...I stood around and struggle thru 20 rods, 15 the next day and another dozen a day for a week or about 10 days before I was getting a grip vs holding on for the ride and struggling. Glad to see the op got a modern machine. It will be well worth it. Keep turning it up till ypou melt a hole in it, then down a pinch and its almost hard to miss with the 10, just a matter of how much you wanna get on it.
Did a joint yesterday across a 2 inch angle and used a whole small rod in it. Was coming back a little and could melt thru where the keyhole was melting thru a bit in front and filling to flush on the back.

[Zanemahoney]

I’m trying to post a pic but it won’t let me

[whtbaron]

I’m trying to post a pic but it won’t let me

Account might be too new.... email it to me and I'll post it for you.... whtbaron@yahoo.com ... put something in the topic line I'll recognize in case it goes to junk mail.

[Louie1961]

Hey guys new here I have a Miller thunder bolt and the threaded rod through the top is stripped out for a 1” area is there any way to replace this

I am not trying to be the forum police, but you would probably get a lot more eyes on your post and as a result more help, if you just started your own thread, rather than piggybacking on an old thread that someone else started.

[Sberry]

The SA200 is a dandy machine but for general work the difference between it and most other dc welders is moot and the small few guys that could tell them apart if the leads come from the other side of the wall would be fewer than claimed. Only thing makes a Maxstar better than a Tbolt is the size and weight. I have ran them back to back against my red DC buzzer and if I could tell I would have to give the edge to,,,,,, the ,,,,, buzzer especially restarts. I guess new ones have a hot start feature, that might help. 3rd or 4th light when doing short work and lots of rods stumble.

[52 Ford]

I'd just buy which ever one is cheaper. I've used both, they both weld fine. Whatever you get, I highly recommend getting AC/DC, not just AC. If you get the Lincoln, add some quick couplers to the leads so you can take them off to store them.

[Louie1961]

Thanks and update from Florida Al in the Deep South.
I have purchased the ESAB 180i and some Lincoln Excaliber 3/32" 7018 rods. Pushed my small time, retired budget a bit. But, I can finally keep an arc going again. My garage practice/learning welds look like Fido's rear end, but I pounded one with a hammer and it held. (redneck style QC. ) Now I'm working on improving.
Reading all the replies was very educational. I sincerely appreciate every reply.
Thank you, everyone.

Al, inquiring minds want to know! Let see some pics of your latest welds with the Esab 181i and tell us how you like it? Have you messed around with the hot start and arc force yet?

[Sberry]

I am thinking he got good advice to get the newer machine. Nothing wrong with old but if I had to spend money meaning it wasnt free or near it would so much rather have a new 180,,,, whats not to like about 18#, 120V,,,, no,,, wait,,, I could have a Dialarc instead. Cost the same to get it running in the end, needs real service, leads, cant use with cords, ,,, the 70's called and want their welder back. I wish they had the Esab when I was a sprout, crap,,,, such an improvement, what a pain in the *** portable has always been for small work. Hobby guys dont need 5/32 they need 3/32 and to tell the truth a lot of professional work done with it.
Makes for neater out of position light structural and pipe.
I am not sure the OP couldnt have done this a little cheaper today but I think the extra was money well spent. Super new modern, will run a 3/32 7018 from common outlet and 100 ft cord. You can run it 240 with 12 from a common welder circuit and burn 1/8 as fast as you wanna chuckem in. Puts current control right at hand. I did find another 25 ft lead. That is kind of nice for construction, trailer fab, tacking up long pieces. Nice to jump around with the stinger.

[Sberry]

So,,, how much difference would I notice between a new machine and my 15 yr old Maxstar?

[Sberry]

For sure easier on the genset and even in the shop, doesnt have to be a gut wrenching decision to put a convenience outlet in, dont have to finance a chunk of wire sits idle most of the time.
I was in a place while back where building wire was a problem and we simply put a 75 ft cord on the machine and went right around it all, it reached it all from a circuit near the source. I could do it all withy 3 outlets in my old shop, I had 2 I used a feeder on and 70 ft and one with the DC buzzer and heavy long leads.

[Sberry]

I have used Dial and Ideal, maybe a small pichup load of them, one for 6 months. I have red DC buzzer, used a mate or 2 maybe but,,, the DC buzzer is really good, the variable would be a bit better for fussy small rods. It seems to fall where its needed though. I got a Maxstar. I use the buzzer, buying new would buy a Maxstar clone.