1983 Hilux frame repair

[stevo44]

Hey Guys,

I've got to weld a PFC Channel type steel (longitudinal cut from SHS 65mm) I fabricated into my Hilux frame, but there's not an easy way to lay a weld. any suggestions as to how I can make a strong TIG weld?

sorry some pics are upside down.







Cheers

Stephen

[liberty_metal_worx]

That is not TIG territory in my opinion. You should consider stick welding that. 6011/6010 root and 7018 over it. In my experience, when you repair frames that have a blind side, you end up getting into all the impurities you couldn't clean out. This almost always happens when I do equipment repairs involving weldments and boxed in structures. Weld the root with 60xx and then grind it down until there is a nice groove for your 7018 or TIG pass if clean enough. If it's still dirty, "wash, rinse and repeat". You will hate life if you go right at it with TIG.

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[shovelon]

I am primarily a tig guy. If that was my only option I would use ER312 to help check the rust bubbling. But honestly I would have at it with my mig. If it bubbles so be it.

[stevo44]

Thanks Liberty, I read up some on using stick to fill gaps, makes sense. and thanks Shovelon, didn't know ER312 stainless helped with rust bubbling (lots I dont know!). the frame was originally MIG welded.

[123weld]

id use nr 211, maybe .035 on the new cannel. if any gaps are to big, i might shove a lil er70s6 tig wire length wise for a backing in the gaps befroe runnimg a innerdhield bead. as for the crossmenber/lower pic, i would lay under the car w/ a big pack of my favorite chewing gum. as the flavor starts to run out on each piece, id start patching the holes w/ the gum. then i'd smear jb weld over it

[ttoks]

Yeah this is not a TIG job but this is 100% a stick job, personally with the gaps ect I would go with 6013 for a first pass over 6010, and to go over it with a 7018 or 7016 in a 3/32.

Failing stick, I would be going with MIG, .035 duel shield run colder than specced or solid wire with some grinding if it bubbles.

I do get the impression that this is one of those jobs that if you have to ask, then maybe you shouldn't be doing it though.

[shovelon]

Yeah this is not a TIG job but this is 100% a stick job, personally with the gaps ect I would go with 6013 for a first pass over 6010, and to go over it with a 7018 or 7016 in a 3/32.

Failing stick, I would be going with MIG, .035 duel shield run colder than specced or solid wire with some grinding if it bubbles.

I do get the impression that this is one of those jobs that if you have to ask, then maybe you shouldn't be doing it though.

I get the OPs desire to salvage. You should see my 1984 Toyota Hilux extended cab original muffler and cat. They look like armadillos.

[Weldalittle]

Yeah this is not a TIG job but this is 100% a stick job, personally with the gaps ect I would go with 6013 for a first pass over 6010, and to go over it with a 7018 or 7016 in a 3/32.

Failing stick, I would be going with MIG, .035 duel shield run colder than specced or solid wire with some grinding if it bubbles.

I do get the impression that this is one of those jobs that if you have to ask, then maybe you shouldn't be doing it though.

Out of curiosity, why 6013? Nevermind, I just saw the part about the gaps...

[123weld]

Yeah this is not a TIG job but this is 100% a stick job, personally with the gaps ect I would go with 6013 for a first pass over 6010, and to go over it with a 7018 or 7016 in a 3/32.

Failing stick, I would be going with MIG, .035 duel shield run colder than specced or solid wire with some grinding if it bubbles.

I do get the impression that this is one of those jobs that if you have to ask, then maybe you shouldn't be doing it though.

ur stick method sounds like a whole lotta heat and weld, on thin metal and edge. when cools/shrinks, theres more stress surrounding those oversized welds than some of the other methods discussed here. seems mig held it all this time i would think its no more than 1/8 inch . i think we should have confidence in the guy, he dont sound green.