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  1. #1
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    3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    Here's the trailer below. I'm needing to stiffen the trailer overall. I have the above mentioned flat bar. I'm going to weld it flush on the inside of the trailer uprights.

    Weld it to the bottom inside edge (3×3 angle) or the upper inside edge on round tubing. If I weld it to the bottom, I'll need to still cut out strap through holes. If I weld it to the upper, no such cut outs required

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  2. #2
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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    You already have a fair amount of strength in the rails. I'd just add some chords of 2"x 2"x 3/16"" angle iron between the uprights and add chords along the fenders.
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  3. #3
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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    Quote Originally Posted by mla2ofus View Post
    You already have a fair amount of strength in the rails. I'd just add some chords of 2"x 2"x 3/16"" angle iron between the uprights and add chords along the fenders.
    I know with wood trusses if they want to strengthen one, they cover all or part with plywood or osb. Wouldn't that same principal apply here?

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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    Why do you need to stiffin trailer ??
    Is the suspension shot ?
    Are the bushings inside equalizers,springs , and shackles OK ?
    That looks like its a manufactured trailer. It was enginneered for GVW on nameplate.
    If you need to stiffin, sounds like you need a larger load capacity trailer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    I don't understand, I would think the frame would be plenty strong in the current configuration, if it were mine & I wanted to stiffen it more I woul triangulate diagonally between each upright. I worked with a fellow that got his hands on a disqualified hydraulic crane boom & built a gooseneck, I think it was 24 feet long plus the "tongue," the completed trailer weighed ar 14000LBS empty IIRC, he pulled it with a 3/4 ton chevy with a 454 with a manual 4spd & 3 speed brownie, 1 under, 1 direct drive & 1 over, he towed that rig from southern New Mexico to Pueblo Colorado, and back to his starting point several years later, he then towed it from southern New Mexico to somewhere in Oregon, I think he told me he was over 30000 on his first trip, he had no concerns of GVWR or safe capacity of the truck. He subscribed to the notion that "HEAVIER WAS STRONGER" I guess that's true .......to a point.
    Last edited by CAVEMANN; 05-03-2021 at 10:42 PM.
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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    Quote Originally Posted by CAVEMANN View Post
    I don't understand, I would think the frame would be plenty strong in the current configuration, if it were mine & I wanted to stiffen it more I woul triangulate diagonally between each upright. I worked with a fellow that got his hands on a disqualified hydraulic crane boom & built a gooseneck, I think it was 24 feet long plus the "tongue," the completed trailer weighed ar 14000LBS empty IIRC, he pulled it with a 3/4 ton chevy with a 454 with a manual 4spd & 3 speed brownie, 1 under, 1 direct drive & 1 over, he towed that rig from southern New Mexico to Pueblo Colorado, and back to his starting point several years later, he then towed it from southern New Mexico to somewhere in Oregon, I think he told me he was over 30000 on his first trip, he had no concerns of GVWR or safe capacity of the truck. He subscribed to the notion that "HEAVIER WAS STRONGER" I guess that's true .......to a point.
    If the uprights were tubular, I'd agree, but since they be angled, that won't really work well

  7. #7
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    Re: 3/16 × 8" flat bar placement for maximum strength

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Why do you need to stiffin trailer ??
    Is the suspension shot ?
    Are the bushings inside equalizers,springs , and shackles OK ?
    That looks like its a manufactured trailer. It was enginneered for GVW on nameplate.
    If you need to stiffin, sounds like you need a larger load capacity trailer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Suspension is shot
    One axle is bent at the hub
    both axles been re-bent for canter a few times

    Ain't spendin 6k for a new one and waiting 6 weeks or more since I can do some re-fab and such for 2k

    picked up 7k axles, springs, 8 bolt wheels,14 ply tires for $1,500 today

    I ordered the 8" already. The guy at the trailer shop that does repairs and builds some said he didn't think it made any difference where I put it. The guy that works for us who is fairly knowledgeable about a variety of things thinks it'll be better on the bottom. I told our guy this morning before I went to the trailer shop that it didn't matter top or bottom. He got very vocal in his disagreement......
    Last edited by sedgehammer; 05-03-2021 at 11:49 PM.

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