Aead200le

[SquirmyPug]

I just bought an AEAD200LE, serial JE820487 and it's missing the ignition on/off switch. I'm having a hard time finding out which manual to download with this serial number and also which switch I need, part number or even another switch that would work. If anyone can help me out I would definitely appreciate it.

After I get that switch I should be able to get the machine running. Then I'll need the fine amperage control, if anyone knows where to find one at a good price that would be awesome. Thanks

[mla2ofus]

maybe duaneb55 will be along and I'm sure he can help you find a manual and maybe even where to get the switch.

[Poleframer]

Try this https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O411N_MIL.pdf
Parts list is at the bottom.

[SquirmyPug]

Try this https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O411N_MIL.pdf
Parts list is at the bottom.

I've downloaded a few of those, with my serial number I wasn't sure which one I needed to use. I think I need part #19 but on some of the other manuals it's a different number and i'm not positive that's even what I need anyway because of how the diagrams are drawn. I wish it said "ignition on/off" next to the part number or something.

[SquirmyPug]

maybe duaneb55 will be along and I'm sure he can help you find a manual and maybe even where to get the switch.

I'm sure he will be around soon, glad to see so many of the old regulars still around.

I was thinking it might even be nice if I could find a keyed ignition switch, but that's not necessary. Right now the main thing is just getting it running, I bought it cheap and have no idea how much is wrong with it.

[Kpack]

Look through this it’s a old one.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2s33g6k6s3...8_mil.pdf?dl=0

[SquirmyPug]

Here's a few pictures

[SquirmyPug]

Few more

[albrightree]

That machine looks about the same year as mine, only yours looks alot better. Hope you get it running, they're really good stick welding machines.
S1 is a standard toggle switch you should be able to get at a local hardware / electrical supply store(sometimes HD,Lowes). It is a 3 Pole double throw switch, not the most common type of toggle switch. If you look at circuit diagram B-088 562 you will see a long dashed line showing how the contacts are hooked up. Each has an associated wire Number/letter , there are 3 switches (3pole) shown a s S1. The 30 Ohm 100 watt isn't a standard one found at my electronics distributor so you might have to find one at someone like miller4less. I would clean/lube it up, and ohm it out to see if its good.

Best of luck with your project

[SquirmyPug]

That machine looks about the same year as mine, only yours looks alot better. Hope you get it running, they're really good stick welding machines.
S1 is a standard toggle switch you should be able to get at a local hardware / electrical supply store(sometimes HD,Lowes). It is a 3 Pole double throw switch, not the most common type of toggle switch. If you look at circuit diagram B-088 562 you will see a long dashed line showing how the contacts are hooked up. Each has an associated wire Number/letter , there are 3 switches (3pole) shown a s S1. The 30 Ohm 100 watt isn't a standard one found at my electronics distributor so you might have to find one at someone like miller4less. I would clean/lube it up, and ohm it out to see if its good.

Best of luck with your project

I appreciate that, I thought it was "S2" looking at the diagram and the ignition switch area.

I've heard that they are nice stick welders and having a generator would be nice so I would really like to get it running. I only paid $120 for the machine as is, they said it hasn't run in about 4 years. Missing an air filter, ignition switch, battery and a few bolts/ screws but other than that it looks pretty complete. The rheostat has a few broken wires right around 90% so i'm sure it will need to be replaced, i'm not sure there's any way to fix it

[SquirmyPug]

The wires that aren't connected to a switch are #31, #30, >30,>27. If that helps.

[SquirmyPug]

And the schematics from the machine. It looks to me like I need switch "s2"

[Insaneride]

Hey Squirmy, good to see your still alive and welding.

Switch S2 looks like a double pole double throw on my monitor. A three pole would work but doesn't look necessary. Guitar repair shops should have Carling switches. If not, here's a link to help locate one. The ST series are better for humidity and the H series come in three pole if needed.

Good luck with it.

https://www.carlingtech.com/toggle-switches

[SquirmyPug]

Hey Squirmy, good to see your still alive and welding.

Switch S2 looks like a double pole double throw on my monitor. A three pole would work but doesn't look necessary. Guitar repair shops should have Carling switches. If not, here's a link to help locate one. The ST series are better for humidity and the H series come in three pole if needed.

Good luck with it.

https://www.carlingtech.com/toggle-switches

Glad to see you're around too Insane. I've been around occasionally lurking but have been busy with life so I don't spend too much time here but try to come by sometimes. I haven't seen too many of my friends here since I've been back but hopefully most are still around.

With the wire numbers I have that aren't attached to anything do you think I need switch s1 or s2? They are in a previous post. I keep going back and forth trying to decide what I need.

Thanks for the info about the Carling switches, options are always good.

[Insaneride]

The wires that aren't connected to a switch are #31, #30, >30,>27. If that helps.

Your schematic shows those wires going to S2. Albrighttree is correct that S1 is a 3 pole but wires 31,30 and 27 on your schematic go to S2.

The NO (normally open) are jumpered together between poles and then connected to 30.

The C or common from one pole goes to 27. The other C goes to 31. The NC normally closed or OFF isn't used.

The switch may work backwards or up for off down for on but just reorient the switch if needed. It has to do with which common you use for 27 and 31. Doesn't matter but down should be off. It can be confusing until you know which position is on. It can cause bad dreams if you try to start it in the off position. Guess how I know?

Edit: I had a similar switch problem on a kohler. One pole went bad. I was able to tie both commons together to get the job done.

[Insaneride]

If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power.

Wire 27 looks like battery charge. Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.

Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.

[SquirmyPug]

If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power.

Wire 27 looks like battery charge. Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.

Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.

I really appreciate that thank you, I stopped at a hardware store and got a double pole double throw (on, off, on) switch with an o- ring so hopefully that will work and last a while.

[albrightree]

Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.




Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.

[SquirmyPug]

Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.




Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.

I don't think the schematic is a replacement but it could be. Looking at the machine, I don't think it was EVER used to weld. The coarse amperage switch copper contacts didn't have any scratches or wear until I adjusted it to see if it would turn. I think if I can get it running, it will be a nice machine. The motor needs a little work from what I can see but I haven't noticed anything that would make me scrap it.

I got the switch installed last night, getting spark plugs and hopefully fuel line/ filter installed tonight. After that I'll get a battery and see what happens. I tried to see if it would turn over with some cheap jumper cables but got little more than a click. Hope there's nothing else going on with it.

I appreciate all the help guys and I'll keep you updated about the machine.

[SquirmyPug]

So I've been slowly working on the machine, new spark plugs, air filter, oil and filter, fuel lines and filter.. the usual stuff.
I could hear the starter spinning but it sounds like just an electric motor with no load so I figured that the bendix gear was stuck in place.
Removed the sheet metal until I could get to the starter and checked...definitely stuck.
So I used some wd to free it and get it moving easily and thought that would be it.. nope.
It seems that the plastic gears inside the starter have stripped so I ordered a new starter and it should be here Tuesday.
After that I should be able to find out if the machine will start


Is there anything in the generator/ welder that I need to check before trying to get the machine running?
I can't think of anything and didn't see anything that might be a problem but I've never owned a generator before.
Thanks for the help guys

[albrightree]

You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also.

Regards

[SquirmyPug]

You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also.

Regards

I will look closer before trying to get it to run but I've looked a lot and didn't see any nests or bad wires/ connections. Everything looks good, just dusty

[SquirmyPug]

After replacing a few parts I got the machine running last night

It's not idling up, generating power or welding but I haven't checked anything yet so hopefully it won't take much to get it working.

Here's a short video of a cold start the morning after getting it running

[albrightree]

Almost there, fingers crossed. Will it weld/generate ? I hope so.

[SquirmyPug]

Next update- Got the auto idle working last night

When set to weld mode the machine will auto idle or high idle depending on where I have the switch. At high idle the 100hz receptacle reads about 95hz. It works as is for the grinder and makes it idle up.
When the weld/ power switch is set to power I'm not getting voltage to the receptacles. I'm not sure if the switch is only working for some of the terminals or possibly something else going on. Was also thinking that setting the weld mode receptacle to 100hz by adjusting the idle up a little might let the machine make voltage with power mode. Got to do some more testing

Here's the next video just showing it auto idling.