I had a longer explanation but deleted it. The fact you used 7014 on any of the hook is more than enough reason (by itself) you should just replace it. Sorry, but your welding the hook is not too far off some of the pics. under the trailer fail thread. It could potentially break and seriously injure someone. Weld on hooks are designed to be welded on (by qualified people) and don't put the weld on the highest stress point. I would get rid of both those bolt on hooks. They are made for pulling and put undue stress on the section that broke when doing any lifting or too much side pulling. My best guess is they were put on by someone who didn't know how to weld or didn't have a machine. I've never seen that style of hooks on heavy equipment. John Deere used to have really nice hooks on the corners of their smaller track loaders but I don't know if you can still get them. You could hook a chain in them or they had a had a closed oval loop.
I was actually thinking about something like that last night. As previously stated, I don't intend to use the hooks for lifting, just to keep the chains from sliding sideways. Something like a shackle at the top of the bucket would accomplish the same thing.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
At the very least, 7014 is flat position only and 7018 is all position.
It's just easier to have the more versatile 7018 around.
I keep a brick on the bench or the work for restarts.
Tappy tap, strike. One hand.
They are both all position. That's what the "1" in the number means. When you get into 1/4" size all position becomes a lot more difficult. 7024/7028 is flat and horizontal only. Some 7018 is easier to break the slag off the end. I'm spoiled because I have Blueshield 7018. It gets the slag but it comes off fairly easily compared other 7018. Sometimes I just give a hard tap or 2 on the piece I'm welding. Not a big deal.
Well, I started to post some pics of my snow blade maintenance on one of Freebird's threads, but it may as well go here with the other work on my loader. The early posts in this thread date back to the spring of 2021 and I'm happy to report that after 2 yrs of hard work, those earlier repairs are still holding fine.... thanks to the advice I got from 12V, Popeye and others.
The snow blade I run every winter was once a wing off a highways truck and has been adapted to bolt onto the bucket by a previous owner. I'm not sure how old the wing is, but nobody I talked to seemed to know what I needed for a replacement cutting edge, and I managed to get some used blades cheap, so we'll be making some minor changes to the hole locations. The old blade had been worn right down to where it was eating at the mouldboard, so it was time...
At some point in the last few decades, the trailing edge of the blade had been bounced off too many curbs and got bent back. I opted to grind a wedge shaped piece to bring the mouldboard back up to level for the new blade.
A wise man once told me, "If you are going to grind, use a grinder." This one's for you, Doug... aka DSW...
Last edited by whtbaron; 11-15-2023 at 09:01 PM.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
After a couple hours of grinding on the 3/8" steel, I had to concede that I was still going to have to "butter the bread" and build up a significant portion of the "wedge".
This is where I finished up tonight. I started at it last Saturday but got sidelined by a power outage, a bunch of meetings and trip to the city, so I didn't get back to it until this afternoon. Hoping to get back to it tomorrow, but life happens....
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
Actually, the skin looks good on it. The steel that holds the blade doesn't look that bad either. All of it had to have been run in extremely salty conditions in its previous lifetime.
I'm sure somebody will try to correct me....................but the older steel was better. I have some feeders built almost 20yrs ago with channel that catches the rain/snow/hay, and holds it(doesn't drain). They still look pretty good. Another feeder, same design, built maybe 5yrs ago, looks like crap already. Steel starting to delaminate.
Best stuff I ever worked with, was some stuff from Poland. It develops a patina instead of going straight into rust blister mode. Hell...........look at some of the older farm equipment. Been in the weather for decades, and still looks pretty good.
I wonder if it's the result of all the mini mills using scrap to make "new" steel. God only knows what's in that crap.
Man, if that was my plow blade, I’d do a full clean up first, remove all the rust I could, repair all damaged areas, smooth all beads a bit, then paint the whole thing. After that I’d stand back and admire my work…….for at least a couple of minutes, then back to work! Looking forward to your completion of the repiars and the pics you will post.
You DO know that copyright infringement is against the law
That is NOT your grinder. Can't be......must have stolen the pic off the Net. It has almost 75% of the wheel left......it's it's it's almost new
I bought that grinder at an auction sale. It's the high hp version of the 9" and still had the original plastic bag in the original box. If it was a toy, it would have been a collectors item. I tried to sign up for the warranty card, but it was already an obsolete model then. Apparently the first owner realized it was a beast to hang onto, and as you've noted from the disc, I haven't used it a lot yet either.
Great for a large area of metal removal though. I think that disk was just a Princess Auto special, but thinking back, I've put a lot of grinding time on it for a limited amount of wear that it has...
Last edited by whtbaron; 11-16-2023 at 10:44 AM.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
Man, if that was my plow blade, I’d do a full clean up first, remove all the rust I could, repair all damaged areas, smooth all beads a bit, then paint the whole thing. After that I’d stand back and admire my work…….for at least a couple of minutes, then back to work! Looking forward to your completion of the repiars and the pics you will post.
Actually, when I first bought the loader I was planning on a complete repaint of the entire unit... there's at least 2 gallons of John Deere Industrial yellow sitting here waiting to hop on, but it hasn't happened yet. As for smoothing that blade out, there is a few nasty blemishes that I spent about an hour with the BFH on... and gave up. Nothing is going to move without being at least red hot. There's some tough metal in that old beast. There is a rip in the center I'm going to try welding a patch over, but I don't think pristine smooth is happening again in it's lifetime or mine...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
12 ft and made to run on an angle. The original cutting edge was 11' with 2 short ends... the ones I'm putting on are made in 3 four ft. sections. Looks like I better play hooky on today's meeting and get back at it. I might be needing that snow blade back on sooner rather than later....
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
12 ft and made to run on an angle. The original cutting edge was 11' with 2 short ends... the ones I'm putting on are made in 3 four ft. sections. Looks like I better play hooky on today's meeting and get back at it. I might be needing that snow blade back on sooner rather than later....
What I like to do when building or rebuilding box scrapers or anything of that type is drill the base to use grader blades. A 12' moldboard would use two 6' blades, a 16' would use two 8's, and so on. Makes it real easy to get replacements.
These are similar to grader blades...they fit the new plow trucks so they should be available for a while. Got sidetracked a few times today, but managed to get more done.
Here you go Samm... proof that it's really my grinders complete with almost done disks. The leading edge had a "flashing" that had to be removed from the previous blade being worn to the limit. If you thought my worn disks were bad, you're going to snarf your coffee on this one.
Yes, that's a badly worn wire cup, and the sad part is, for this application, I've actually come to prefer them this way. The whisker stubble left is great for removing rust on flat surfaces at grinder speeds, and there's no wires to fly around. I dug out Popeye's favorite weapon, the needle scaler for cleaning off the slag between layers, and I do mean multiple layers...
The patch on the corner was welded in with 7018, and the remaining low area built up with about 5 lbs. of 5/16 6013's I bought on sale before Covid pricing. I can't say it's my prettiest work, but it will look just fine getting dragged down a road at 8 mph with 3/4" of hardened steel bolted over top of it...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
She's close... the opposite end has a slight bend too, but a washer a few passes of bird turds should fix it up...
I started to redrill the holes that don't line up for the new blades. With a new high quality 5/8" bit freshly sharpened and using a 3/8" pilot hole, it's going to take me about a half hour for each hole. I need 12 new holes and the back of some of them needs to be trimmed clear before I start drilling.... looking like another full day just drilling if I don't break both my 5/8" drill bits. Cutting torch is looking very tempting...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
No torch! Get a set of tapered frame reamers and lots of cutting oil. I use a 3/16" drill for a pilot, then a 3/8" drill to open the hole, after that a 1/2" reamer, then a 5/8 reamer. Doesn't take long and you're not trying to take a big cut with a 2 flute drill. I use an old 450 RPM Black and Decker drill. Put a bunch of holes in layers of truck frame with that method.
What I like to do when building or rebuilding box scrapers or anything of that type is drill the base to use grader blades. A 12' moldboard would use two 6' blades, a 16' would use two 8's, and so on. Makes it real easy to get replacements.
My grader buddy tells me that one piece blade I dropped off isn't even a real grader blade... it's what they call a backing blade. It's supposed to go behind a blade for extra support, so that sort of explains why it got wore down so bad. It wouldn't be near as hard or long wearing as a real blade.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
Sooo.... 70 amp plasma, mag drill.... and now I should add reamers to the list? No wonder I'm a tool junkie...
With the reamers I don't even bother to use the mag drill, takes too long to set up. Reverse spiral reamers don't cost much and don't take much torque if you go in 1/8" steps.
With the reamers I don't even bother to use the mag drill, takes too long to set up. Reverse spiral reamers don't cost much and don't take much torque if you go in 1/8" steps.
Boonies remember? Tomorrow is Friday... I'm tied up in a meeting all morning ... and all that stuff is days, if not weeks away... you should have told me I was going to need it a month ago when I was ignoring the sales on mag drills and plasma's...
Boonies remember? Tomorrow is Friday... I'm tied up in a meeting all morning ... and all that stuff is days, if not weeks away... you should have told me I was going to need it a month ago when I was ignoring the sales on mag drills and plasma's...
If you're time restricted, you can do what I did when I started out.
I made a set of circles in pieces of plate. Each circle would correspond to a different hole size when the torch was run around the inside. Wasn't totally accurate, but it worked fairly well. Pierce in the middle, then move the torch tip to the outside of the circle, keep it pointed as truly vertical as you can, then go around the hole. It'll be pretty close.
Boonies remember? Tomorrow is Friday... I'm tied up in a meeting all morning ... and all that stuff is days, if not weeks away... you should have told me I was going to need it a month ago when I was ignoring the sales on mag drills and plasma's...
Drilling wings and plows is not fun, there always seems to be a gusset in the way on the backside. All our plows and wings other than grader blades, were drilled at 8" centers so no matter what you had the blade fit. Then the powers decided to go with rubber mounted individual blades 3' long that were drilled at 12" centers...do the math, the holes did not work out. Then of course, some areas didn't want them so we ended up drilling the moldboards at 4" centers so they could use either, looked like a damn grater at the edge.
As for moldboards that had the holes worn thru to. If there was enough hole left to bolt a blade to, a piece of 3/4 round welded to the backside of the mold board using a new blade as a flat surface to lay the round bar too up aginst the remainder of the hole. If a bit of weld 'happened' to get stuck to the bolt..not my problem, you let it wear out by not changing the blade...deal with it the next time the operator changed the blade as it was their responsibility to change them.
Any that the holes were actually gone, a length of 2 or 3" x 3/4" flat with the holes cut was welded to the remainder of the moldboard using the same method, only difference was the blade was clamped in place to use as a flat surface until you got everything tacked in place.
The blades that really lasted were the carbide insert ones but they were expensive.
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Master Welder
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