Does anybody know the axle size of the wheels on the Miller off road running gear? Just made an off road cart for a Trailblazer 325 with ⅝" steel axles. One axle bent on one side, nearest the front. The pneumatic tires are 13" in diameter. I think the wheel "thimbles" (or whatever they are called ) are too long , resulting in the wheel being a little too far from the frame. Or is the axle diameter too small for the weight? Thoughts?
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Did you make a tandem axle tlr? If so did you make walking beams so both axles take the weight evenly? 5/8" sounds a little thin for your purpose. Go buy a couple of boat trailer axles with the 4 hole 3 3/4" hubs then cut out of the middle to shorten them then weld them together and grind the weld down smooth. You don't need to worry about camber in this case. If you can find some pipe that will fit snug on the axle tube, cut a piece about 12" long and split it lengthwise. Then trim the two pieces so you have about a 3/4" gap between the two, then clamp on the tube weld each lengthwise. DO NOT WELD AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE TUBE. Then go buy some HF 12" tires and wheels. It's what I have under my welder tlr with a 700 lb Hobart on it plus the trailer weight, about 200 lbs.
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I used 2 x 2 x3/16 angle for the frame with one flange on top and the other to the outside. I drilled ⅝" holes just about exactly under the bolt holes on the welder, inserting the ⅝" axle. I assumed that the weight would be evenly distributed over the two axles. I think the problem is that the design of the wheels places the centre of the tire about 2" extra from where it would be if the spindle was flush with the side of the tire. Clearance could hopefully be controlled by washers, I assume. Yesterday I bought 4 tires on rims which have spindles flush with the tire wall. I'll get another ⅝" rod and hope I can find one with a higher carbon content. If that fails I'll try something else. It's odd that both axles didn't fail at the same time. Hopefully it was a manufacturing flaw in the rod.
I appreciate your suggestion and I'll probably try that route when I try a small road-worthy trailer build. That is my eventual goal. I'm only an amateur , trying to get the welder experience while having an emergency power supply for power outages. At this time I'm only looking for something to move the machine around my yard and I'd like the mobile cart to be as strong as possible but as light as possible as well. Thanks again mia2ofus. Much appreciated. Your trailer sounds like a great idea.
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I have a 302 Trailerblazer that I also use for emergency power. I store in garage on a custom cart I made.
I wanted it off on/off road use too, so I got a $25.00 boat trailer that I modified. I set it up so my Trailblazer sets on trailer and then gets bolted down. It really works great for me.
Mine is also a recycled boat trailer. It had all 4" channel frame so I just cut it all up and started over. Bought the springs and attaching hardware and made the axle from some recycled spindles and 1 1/2" square tube. I really like the homemade fenders, they never get bent.
Ol' Stonebreaker
"Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"
Hobart G-213 portable
Miller 175 mig
Miller thunderbolt ac/dc stick
Victor O/A setup
Makita chop saw
I have a 302 Trailerblazer that I also use for emergency power. I store in garage on a custom cart I made.
I wanted it off on/off road use too, so I got a $25.00 boat trailer that I modified. I set it up so my Trailblazer sets on trailer and then gets bolted down. It really works great for me.
The ⅝ axles are only for a yard cart. If I get the urge to move it on the road it will be on a traditional trailer axle. I recently did more work on the cart, eventually using no-flat tires from Princess Auto. this was after two other tire sets were not satisfactory. I also sacrificed a clamp pipe with a ⅝ID and slid it on the axles to add strength and it seems to be doing fine at this time. I have yet to weld a handle on the cart and it's tough to get it turned around in the garage without that handle. I guess I'll always be looking for new options to make it work best for me.
Thanks for all the replies! Allan
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I have a little trouble even envisioning a road worthy trailer with 5/8” axles.
I have a little trouble even envisioning a road worthy trailer with 5/8” axles.
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This is Miller's Off-Road version. It is to push around the worksite, not tow it
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We used 3/4" for our 4-wheel kits on our Honda 6500 generators.
Ed Conley http://www.screamingbroccoli.com/
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Passport Plus & Spool gun
Lincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)
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Beer in the fridge
The first axle I put in my cart for my jacking equipment was 5/8"... had to push it out to 3/4" (You can see it's starting to bend in the bottom pic, it ended up with the same Princess Auto wheels that Lis2323 used). Can't say I'm too excited by pneumatic tires in the shop either. They go flat sitting around and are more prone to welding sparks. Those boat trailers could be narrowed down for storage if you went to the torsion spindle kits... a little pricey though.
Last edited by whtbaron; 06-24-2021 at 10:22 AM.
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The first axle I put in my cart for my jacking equipment was 5/8"... had to push it out to 3/4" (You can see it's starting to bend in the bottom pic, it ended up with the same Princess Auto wheels that Lis2323 used). Can't say I'm too excited by pneumatic tires in the shop either. They go flat sitting around and are more prone to welding sparks. Those boat trailers could be narrowed down for storage if you went to the torsion spindle kits... a little pricey though.
NICE!
Puts my Rubbermaid clad Porta-Power "cart" to shame
Puts my Rubbermaid clad Porta-Power "cart" to shame
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You couldn't get all the pieces back in the original molded box in any sort of semblance that would allow you to latch it too? First time I used my Blackhawk set, the original box went into the dumpster after I fought with it for half an hour.
You couldn't get all the pieces back in the original molded box in any sort of semblance that would allow you to latch it too? First time I used my Blackhawk set, the original box went into the dumpster after I fought with it for half an hour.
LOL. You called it!
My porta power came off the Snap-on truck "on sale".
I still have the original metal box. I spent way too much time coiling the hose the right way to get everything to fit..
The deeper Rubbermaid tool box is much more durable and easier to wheel around with a hand truck
The first axle I put in my cart for my jacking equipment was 5/8"... (You can see it's starting to bend in the bottom pic,). .
That axle and those wheels could have worked for this cart,, had the wheels not been cantilever mounted.
If you had used a piece of 1/4 x 2 steel, and made a bracket that supported the outside end of the axle, the axle would not have bent.
Here is a cart that shows the concept.
This is MUCH stronger than supporting the axle from the inside, so a smaller axle will carry the load.
I have a cart similar to the one shown in this pic, it has a tag that says 2,000 pound capacity.
Below is a pic of a cart that is rated 2,000 pounds, the axles might only be 1/2",, but, they are not cantilever mounted,,
(HECK, the axles might only be 3/8",, they look pretty small)
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Originally Posted by BD1
