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Thread: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

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    Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    I am looking to weld a plate (mounting flange) to a black iron pipe. Not sure if it matters, but the pipe is from Lowes. I believe it is simply mild steel. Any thoughts on what stick electrode to use?

    The pipe is a cable pass-through, it won't be carrying any gas or anything pressurized. It will be painted. I am not concerned with porosity, however the flange is to allow fixing the pipe in place so it doesn't rotate when tightening a cap on the end when not in use. So as long as the weld is strong enough for that intermittent torquing of the cap thats all that I really care about.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    What size is the pipe and plate dimensions ??
    Depending on plate thickness, and size, you could probably just tack it and not weld fully.
    Too much heat and you'll warp plate.
    3/32 6010, 6011, or 6013. Use whatever you have.
    Depending on what you need, you may consider getting a threaded floor flange and screw pipe into it.


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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    If water infiltration is not an issue then a couple of good spot welds will do. Porosity are holes that will allow water in.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    3/32" 7014, or 6013

    I often use either to mount flanges to pipes, tubes, channels . If you use 1/4" plate you shouldn't have any warpage. I usually run 70 to 75 amps DC depending on machine.

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    The black iron pipes I've gotten recently weld alright, just have to sand off some of the plastic coating they have on them now.

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    Done well , it should be plenty strong without much warpage.



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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    1/4" plate could still warp if too big a weld is put on too fast. Pretty much any rod would work. 6010/6011 would have less heat input because of lower amps.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Quote Originally Posted by albrightree View Post
    3/32" 7014, or 6013

    I often use either to mount flanges to pipes, tubes, channels . If you use 1/4" plate you shouldn't have any warpage. I usually run 70 to 75 amps DC depending on machine.
    Excellent info.

    I've had decent luck with 7014 on small/thin stuff - it lays down a nicer bead for me. However, I have started steering away from it for anything "structural" due to the lack of ductility. It seems most people say it leaves a "brittle" weld. I suppose the flange, not being load bearing other than hanging the pipe and holding back the rare torque from screwing/unscrewing caps it might work OK. I have 1/16", 5/64", and 1/8" 7014 rods. The 5/64" have been my go-to's if I am using that type - they are stiffer than the 1/16" and I can still knock the amps down on light stuff.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    You're over thinking things which will just mess you up.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Just about any process or electrode you have will work just fine, or be too much depending on your skill. I am with the just tack it and seal with caulk school.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    I went with around 1/16" for the flange. Thats plenty sturdy.

    I tried 5/64" 7014 at first but screwed myself. It didnt lay down enough metal and the slag prevented the pool from fusing the parts in a lot of places. I ground out a lot of it and started over. After round 2 of fighting the slag I switched to 3/32" 6011. Not that the weld on this part really matters, I just want a full seal around it that I can paint over and not have it rust as easy. In any event, the 6011 gets through and I'm not fighting the slag. It is a bit of a dance with the current. I am down at 50 amps on an inverter machine. Thats still quite a bit for the thinner flange and have blown thru a bit, but I can work with it.

    For some reason the pictures in the edit screen of this are showing upside down. I don't know if they will post right side up when I submit the post, but we'll see.

    The last picture is after grinding welds. I didn't get any more pictures - I still have work do do on it and shut things down last night after dark.

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    For what it is worth, I tried coating the threads with duct tape. Of course, when welding on the pipe the hot pipe burnt the tape off. I have caps for each end of the pipe - the challenge is the cap only covers 1/2 the thread depth on the end of the pipe. Anywho, the cap does a better job - it won't burn like the tape.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    A piece of tube or formed light gauge sheetmetal would protect threads too.
    Spatter loves all type of threads.


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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Bevel pipe and weld from bottom. Cover threads with weld blanket. Spatter is like water, patient and opportunistic.. How can you not feel a spatter bead until it reaches your butt crack after entering your shirt collar.?

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    I tack in 3 places. Then weld 1/4 turn of pipe then opposite side.
    The base place stay straight do not over heat your welding or you have new problems.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyFishn View Post
    I am looking to weld a plate (mounting flange) to a black iron pipe. Not sure if it matters, but the pipe is from Lowes. I believe it is simply mild steel. Any thoughts on what stick electrode to use?

    The pipe is a cable pass-through, it won't be carrying any gas or anything pressurized. It will be painted. I am not concerned with porosity, however the flange is to allow fixing the pipe in place so it doesn't rotate when tightening a cap on the end when not in use. So as long as the weld is strong enough for that intermittent torquing of the cap thats all that I really care about.
    Last edited by smithdoor; 06-11-2021 at 02:40 PM.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Use anti-spatter spray on the threads. Every welder should have some on hand. For a heavier coating use Arcair Protex or Protex Extra.

    https://www.esabna.com/us/en/product...ti-spatter.cfm
    Last edited by Welder Dave; 06-11-2021 at 02:58 PM.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Aluminum foil cap ? Is that to keep spatter off the threads ? are you going to need all the threads after welding ?

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    Not sure I would characterize the welds as brittle, maybe somewhat less ductile than 7018.
    Some electrodes don't require a specific Charpy V-notch, but all the Lincoln rods meet the minimum requirement for E7018/6011
    Any of them would do the job.

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    I think using such a thin material for a flange makes the job much more difficult. Flanges tend to be thicker than the tubes, angles, or pipes they are welded to (most of the ones I've been given to weld).


    first pass 3/32" 6011 @50 amps dc
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    second pass 5/64" 6013 @64 amps dc
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    I make these cover plates because when using nuts to hold the nipple in the plate for this light fixture, when it gets hit by a fork truck the nuts break and pipe pulls through cover, and fixture dangles by the wires which often shorts out. So far most of these just bend out of the way, or tears the box off the pallet as the fork truck drives through.

    good luck on your project

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Got things installed today. I think this will do just the trick. I did shear off one of the studs, but thats OK. I have plenty of concrete sealant behind the flange so no worries on any gaps/lack of tightening in that corner.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Looks good from here. I'm sure the weld will hold well enough to torque the cap on for a water-tight seal. What type of anchor are you using ?

    Any particular reason you didn't use the Idealarc ? Using a 1/4" plate would have made the job much less challenging. You could have run higher amperage, which would have helped with starting the puddle get free from the slag and make a better weld. When running 6013 or 7014, you need to run the rod hot enough to get the puddle started, when going vertical up you can go lower, as gravity pulls the slag down and out of the way. Does your inverter welder have a hot start, that will also help get the puddle clear of the slag on start up.

    It kind of reminds me of a Fire Hose Connector https://www.weldingweb.com/images/smilies/laughing.gif


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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    I used the inverter because it is more convenient - easier to set up and put away. I could have used the Idealarc, I just didn't. Yes inverter has hot start. I haven't figured out the nuances of it entirely. I did have the hot start on 100 with 1.5sec timer, though. That was from trying to work 6010 a couple months ago or so. I am not sure what the anchors are called. I can look them up. They have a split shank and tapered end of the bolt down in the hole that wedges up against the split shank as you put torque on the bolt - the pressure of the bolt against the split shank is what anchors it in the concrete.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Sounds like a wedge anchor.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Or sleeve anchor. What did tighten it with. I sheared a bolt installing and handrail on Friday. However, I was wrong for using an 1/2 inch impact on.a .25 concrete bolt that started crooked.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Quote Originally Posted by tapwelder View Post
    What did tighten it with.
    3/8 ratchet with an extension and adapter down to 1/4. It didn't take much force at all - I barely felt any resistance before it snapped - like the plate didn't even get pulled down to the concrete block from the pressure of the nut before it broke.

    The 1/4" studs go in a 1/4" hole. but the bolt portion is like 5/32" - the sleeve of the anchor is the 1/4" diameter so the bolt is smaller to fit inside the sleeve.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    If there's a next time, consider drive nails. You only need a 1/4" hole for nail and hammer in.
    Basically non removalable but can be ground off. They're handy for right application

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cobra-15-Pa...ors/1000549039

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    If there's a next time, consider drive nails.
    Won't be a next time on this - one and done kinda thing. However, I did see that type of anchor when I was looking around. I wanted something with a nut that would let me "tighten" the flange to the block. I looked at Tapcon screws also, but I didn't like the idea of the screws threading in to the concrete block. The sleeve anchors I used seemed to make the most sense - the sleeve wedged itself in the depth of the block, not near the surface where cracking is more likely, and the threaded stud let me tighten the flange to the concrete block.

    Maybe on another project...

    On a side note - I have put in ADA pads on sidewalks (the textured grip pads on sidewalk ramps at intersections) and they install with that very type of anchor. Though, I believe the ones we used had a composite "sleeve" and not metal. You're right - the only way to remove what is fastened with them is to grind the heads off. The rest of it is lost in the concrete and non-removable. Even if you tried to drill them out you would mess up the hole they are in so you're better off making a new hole for a new anchor, or replacing the concrete entirely and starting from scratch.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Not sure if you used a sleeve or wedge anchor. Both are removable. You gotta make more mistakes to figure it out. Also, drill deeper than the bolt and extract the dust. Not only does the dust pack hard reducing depth...it eliminate the opportunity set the bolt below grade further increasing the need learn removal technique.

    Sleeve anchors require the sleeve hit the plate or the washer, of the sleeve rest on a nut you could have issues with binding and non tightening.

    I have a thread on retrieving a bolt in a sleeve anchor using my welder as an to make an electro magnet.

    Sleeves are easier to remove than wedges. Also, if you rest the sleeve against the washer it is much easier to remove them, since the sleeve will be proud the thickness of the plate.
    Last edited by tapwelder; 06-16-2021 at 08:31 PM.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    If there's a next time, consider drive nails. You only need a 1/4" hole for nail and hammer in.
    Basically nonremovable but can be ground off. They're handy for the right application

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cobra-15-Pa...ors/1000549039

    They have a lot of names, Hammer Set, Hammer Drive, Hammer Screw if they have a Philips head you can supposedly take them out.

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    Re: Welding a plate on black iron pipe?

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    A piece of tube or formed light gauge sheetmetal would protect threads too.
    Spatter loves all type of threads.


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    The last sentence of this one single post should be a stickie. I will add a double down when welding stainless: I have shed tears....

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