Jeep frame repair

[IAMsteelworker]

Afternoon everyone,
My inlaws bought a 2000 Jeep Wrangler recently that needs some frame patches welded on. I recently bought a Titanium stick225. I've searched this question and it seems everyone says to mig weld it...I don't have that option so my question is should I run a 6010 pass first and then cover with a 7018 or just one or the other? Any other tips. I know its best to stitch weld the repair pieces in. I weld at work with 480 machines quite often so I'm confident I can do this repair just wanting some advice from the actual pros.

Thanks
Adam

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[Louie1961]

I am not an actual pro, but if you prep the metal correctly, there isn't any reason or benefit to using 6010 for the first pass. Just run 7018, make sure you get all the rust and crud off first. If you are welding on bright shiny metal, 7018 will do everything you need. Those frames are likely no more than 1/8th inch thick material, so I would use a 3/32 rod to avoid burning through.

[IAMsteelworker]

I'm used to using a 6010 at work mostly because hard to clean the area good we have to repair. I plan on cutting out as much of the bad as I can, cleaning and prepping the area, maybe paint some weldable primer before covering with the repair piece and welding it out. Then smooth everything out and paint it.

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[Louie1961]

My only concern with 6010 is the wall thickness on the frame. Its easy to blow through unless you are really skilled with 6010 and you should maybe drop down to a 3/32 rod. Plus I don't know if they use a special alloy for frames that would sort of require you to use 7018.

[Welder Dave]

6010 would work and the nice thing is you can run it downhand and get a good strong weld. I typically use 6010 for filling gaps because the slag doesn't pose a real problem and you can turn the amps down quite a bit. You don't want any slag inclusions in your case. If you can do it with 7018 would be good too. I think a proper repair with either or both rods should be more than adequate. A frame isn't thick enough to require 2 passes. Some pics. of what you need to repair would be very helpful. If you have to weld on the tall side of the frame rails, make any repair plates oval instead of just vertical. No sense adding a stress point that could crack.

[123weld]

i dont think too much of 6010 for that. post some pics, so people will respond better what to do about it

[M J D]

Auto and truck frames are high strength steel. The reason mig is generally used is heat input is lower with mig welding. 6010 or 11 is a poor choice as your putting in lots of heat and using a relatively low tensile strength filler. Save the agravation and get a hold of a mig for this

[IAMsteelworker]

I will have to get some pictures as they just bought it. I have a little lincoln weldpak 3200hd, but I'm not sure its up to the task being only a 110v machine,correct me if I'm wrong please. I can weld with either 6010 or 7018 doesn't matter to me. I was just seeing if one or the other is preffered. It came with a cap piece from a place called SafeTcap, guess they make all sorts of frame repair sections. The one they have now looks something like this."Front Frame Section w/ Steering Box Mount (ART-135-1-L) Driver Side - autorust.com" https://www.autorust.com/product/fro...l-driver-side/

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[Willie B]

You don't say where your Jeep has been. Here in the rust belt we NEVER have a small portion of a frame that is bad. Cut away the rusty portion, you no longer have a big enough section to put in its place.

It comes down to metal prep. You absolutely need sound steel to weld to. Cut away the size of your patch. If steel is strong, you can grind both sides to clean, non pitted steel, put a 7018 welded backer behind the joint all the way around.

Then it comes down to how clean you got it. Very clean steel, use 7018 for the whole patch.

If you don't have very clean steel give up.

If you insist on welding rusty steel, use the backers & 6010. Then scrap the Jeep before somebody gets killed.

[12V71]

You don't say where your Jeep has been. Here in the rust belt we NEVER have a small portion of a frame that is bad. Cut away the rusty portion, you no longer have a big enough section to put in its place.

It comes down to metal prep. You absolutely need sound steel to weld to. Cut away the size of your patch. If steel is strong, you can grind both sides to clean, non pitted steel, put a 7018 welded backer behind the joint all the way around.

Then it comes down to how clean you got it. Very clean steel, use 7018 for the whole patch.

If you don't have very clean steel give up.

If you insist on welding rusty steel, use the backers & 6010. Then scrap the Jeep before somebody gets killed.

I went in and put on my flame proof underwear. If the upper and lower flanges are still present and in decent shape... 60XX rod will do just fine if the welds are around an oval shape patch plate. 1/8' frame downhill welded to a 3/16" patch will be fine. Been there done it on my kid's '99 Cherokee POS that he beat the hell out of offroad.

[IAMsteelworker]

Far as I know the jeep has spent its life in Southern Ohio. The frame isn't terrible. Still plenty of good material there in the frame to weld to. Appreciate the help.

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[Willie B]

Far as I know the jeep has spent its life in Southern Ohio. The frame isn't terrible. Still plenty of good material there in the frame to weld to. Appreciate the help.

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Are you repairing rust damage or mechanical damage? Can you get to where you can do a proper job all the way around?

[farmersammm]

Welding instructions (well imagine that) https://www.autorust.com/instruction-sheets/

None of these frames, as a rule, on light vehicles, are tempered, or heat treated, in any manner. They weld just like most mild steel. Any warnings about excessive heat applies to keeping warping to a minimum.

[IAMsteelworker]

Are you repairing rust damage or mechanical damage? Can you get to where you can do a proper job all the way around?

Rust damage. I mean I'm not going to pull the body or anything if thats what you're asking. I have a good variety of tools,jacks,stands etc.

Welding instructions (well imagine that) https://www.autorust.com/instruction-sheets/

None of these frames, as a rule, on light vehicles, are tempered, or heat treated, in any manner. They weld just like most mild steel. Any warnings about excessive heat applies to keeping warping to a minimum.

Thank you. I searched for instructions from that company.

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[duramax-rob]

doing bodywork for 35 years, mig is 70,000 tensile strength so you should weld it with 7018. just make sure you have good penetration. that is the most important part. if not ,use backer strips and also don't make square corners, rounded ones

[IAMsteelworker]

doing bodywork for 35 years, mig is 70,000 tensile strength so you should weld it with 7018. just make sure you have good penetration. that is the most important part. if not ,use backer strips and also don't make square corners, rounded ones

I've been told the same thing about the corners from another buddy in auto repair. Thank you!

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[Welder Dave]

I wouldn't think passenger vehicles would use high strength steel like like a semi. 6010 would be just fine especially if it's still holding together with all the rust. Also the repair pieces are just mild steel and the instructions don't list anything about higher strength steel used on the frame. If it's going to break a good 6010 weld, scrap the whole thing. Pipelines are done with 6010 all the time and that's higher quality steel than a Jeep frame.

[12V71]

I wouldn't think passenger vehicles would use high strength steel like like a semi. 6010 would be just fine especially if it's still holding together with all the rust. Also the repair pieces are just mild steel and the instructions don't list anything about higher strength steel used on the frame. If it's going to break a good 6010 weld, scrap the whole thing. Pipelines are done with 6010 all the time and that's higher quality steel than a Jeep frame.

That was where I was coming from in an earlier post. Gonna be a b*tch to do any kind of uphill with out massive undercut on that thin stuff. Any uphill I've ever done on those frames was with .023 solid wire in my little Hobart.

[IAMsteelworker]

I believe I'd do it with some 7018 rods. I've done more vertical with those than 6010s.

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[Welder Dave]

Vertical up with 7018 on a fairly thin frame could be tricky. Vertical down won't cut it.

[IAMsteelworker]

The only area I would be doing vertical up would be the ends of the piece...so its smarter to use 6010 on that portion you think?

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[M J D]

The only area I would be doing vertical up would be the ends of the piece...so its smarter to use 6010 on that portion you think?

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I'm not familiar with the repair panel your using but in general welding 90 degrees across the web of a frame is not good practice. Repair patches should use tapered edges and the welds not completely across the flange area.

[Welder Dave]

Oval patches are used on things like excavator booms. Sometimes the point of the oval isn't welded but the welds extend past the plate so as not to create stress. I think vertical up with 7018 could be tricky on thin material.

[SweetMK]

Before I strike an arc, I would be Googling to see if the Jeep is covered by a recall.
Many rusty parts are covered under recalls,, it might be worth a look.

It is a shame how these car manufacturers use high strength parts without concern for accelerated rust,,

I remember seeing that topic being studied at Virginia Tech in the Materials Engineering department in 1976,,,

[duramax-rob]

i don't know of any pipe line pipe that travels at 35mph and runs into trees. i think that its the jeeps that do. i would want the stronger strength weld than the weaker. any weak spots in the 6010 weld will show up easier on the trees side than possible the 7018 jeeps side or yours. remember, you possibly are going to be welding thru a crumple zone even on a jeep frame. they have them also.

I wouldn't think passenger vehicles would use high strength steel like like a semi. 6010 would be just fine especially if it's still holding together with all the rust. Also the repair pieces are just mild steel and the instructions don't list anything about higher strength steel used on the frame. If it's going to break a good 6010 weld, scrap the whole thing. Pipelines are done with 6010 all the time and that's higher quality steel than a Jeep frame.