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Thread: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

  1. #1
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    Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    I’m running short on 1/8” 6010 and before I buy more I’d like to know more about the differences between the two.

    Is there any reason why I shouldn’t just go with 5p+?

    Thx.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    I don't think there's any reason not to. The 1/8" 5P+ is rated to work with 10 less amps on the low-end compared to 5P.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    I stocked up on the 5P+ back when Oscar had the Home Depot deal going...not sure I even have any 5P anymore. I like the 5P+ just fine. Not sure I even noticed a difference, but it's been a while since I ran any (is 5P the old red stuff? Or was the red stuff 6011?)

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    5P is the old red rod.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    No reason not to use the 5p+, back when I used to run miles of 36" and 48" fire water supply lines in coal mines we would always run the root with a 5P+ and fill and cap with 5P because the 5P root runs would sometimes crack on thicker pipes where as 5P+ roots wouldn't.

    Fun fact, even though they are both designated as a "6010" rod with the 60 meaning 60 MPA (42kPSI) tensile strength minimum, the 5p+ should really be designated (and often is) as a 7010 rod as the minimum tensile strength is more like 73MPa (50kPSI), or similar to a 7018 rod, just not hydrogen controlled, although Lincolns 5p+ often have better charpy V notch test results at -29C than alot of 7018 rods do even though they're not a hydrogen controlled rod.
    Last edited by ttoks; 07-13-2021 at 02:30 AM.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    I think ya got yer MPAs and ksis mixed up there.

    Also not sure where you're getting those numbers...this
    https://www.lincolnelectric.com/asse...lus/c21013.pdf
    says 5p+ gives 60-73 ksi tensile yield strength in "as-welded" deposit...

    That's interesting about it being more ductile than some 7018, if you have sources handy, I'd be interested to see that.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Thanks all for the feedback. 5p+ it is.
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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    The last Lincoln 6010 I used was the fleetweld 5p+, had quite a few issues with the flux flaking off the electrode when about 1/2 the rod was burnt. After that I got some Esab sure weld 10p+, much nicer stuff

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    The last Lincoln 6010 I used was the fleetweld 5p+, had quite a few issues with the flux flaking off the electrode when about 1/2 the rod was burnt. After that I got some Esab sure weld 10p+, much nicer stuff
    Sounds like it got dropped.

    Did UPS deliver it? Around here they're famous for throwing 50# cans of welding rod down the stairs 30 or 40 times, and then delivering it anyway.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Sounds like it got dropped.

    Did UPS deliver it? Around here they're famous for throwing 50# cans of welding rod down the stairs 30 or 40 times, and then delivering it anyway.
    No. I had it a while and it worked ok at first. It might have dried out too much. It was part of a 10 lb can do no big loss, I just tossed it and moved on

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    5P+ is much nicer to weld with. It took awhile to get approved but has a smoother arc and doesn't dig quite as much as the 5P. If either 6010 gets too dry, it is OK to dip it in water and wring it out. It needs moisture in the flux. Even when I took a course on pressure welding, the instructor said it could dipped in water or run under the tap if it wasn't burning right. I got to practice with 5P+ but for the actual test had to use 5P because the 5P+ wasn't approved yet. I think they put more potassium in 5P+ but not positive. That it burns nicer I am sure of. If I recall CEP preferred the Esab 10P+ over Lincoln 5P+. I've never tried the Esab but if it's CEP approved is good enough for me! He tried just about everything as the worlds greatest hobbyist welder. He should have been hired to make an a list of welding products he liked. If it was CEP approved you could take that to the bank!

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    I like 5P+ better, not as aggressive due to iron powder in the flux.


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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    5P+ is much nicer to weld with. It took awhile to get approved but has a smoother arc and doesn't dig quite as much as the 5P. I !
    i use mostly gray, but if the gap/fitup gets too tight, i ll use red

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by 123weld View Post
    i use mostly gray, but if the gap/fitup gets too tight, i ll use red
    I always preferred red for tight roots and grey to fill them out. JMO.

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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Are y’all talking about miss Spears again lol.
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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by N2 Welding View Post
    Are y’all talking about miss Spears again lol.
    Purty sure aint nothin tight on ole Brittney anymore

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  20. #17
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    Re: Lincoln 5p versus 5p+ which do you recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkie1957 View Post
    I like 5P+ better, not as aggressive due to iron powder in the flux.


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    Don't think there's much iron powder in 6010. I think potassium was added to 5P+. I know it was some element but not iron powder. It sucked having to do my pressure test with 5P after trying out the 5P+. I got lucky and passed on my 1st attempt but mostly because the inspector let me make a repair on my root. It was questionable if I had enough penetration in one spot. I think the fact I showed it to him first was why he allowed me to touch up about a 3/8" section. Even told me how to do it. Said to take a power hacksaw blade to make a groove for penetration. Luckily I took a .045" cutting disc for my 4 1/2" grinder as advised by others who took the test. If you try to fix a mistake without letting them know, they will fail you if it's obvious. A friend was taking his test at the same time and was failed but shouldn't have been. His root pass was in but only flush on the inside of the pipe. He said he could push it in more with the hot pass. They said it wasn't enough but he could stay and finish the test for practice. His hot pass pushed the root in where it would have passed. The inspector said it was already failed and he couldn't change his decision. My friend was pizzed that he was failed and I was allowed to make a repair. He got his pressure ticket on the next try. It was $100 to do the test at the time. I think it's $200 or more to take the test today.

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