How do I fix/remove these pathetic welds?

[M J D]

Seems like there's a few individuals who get all butthurt when their " suggestions" aren't followed( reason that they misunderstood what needs to be done). However one would choose to do this there are some very important things that can be gained by this. It's not as much about removing something as it is in different ways to repair a problem. A lot of this would apply to repairing cracks or porosity in difficult to access areas. Also fixing mistakes on something where you want to cover up any damage done. For someone starting out they are valuable skills to learn and the variety of tools needed to properly do such repairs. To the OP, I would be interested in how the gouging electrode works for you. I've used them in the past along with gouging tips for the torch and plasma gouging and can honestly say none of those methods ever impressed me. Certainly in comparison to an air arc which to me is almost surgical, very fast and very effective. Good luck on getting done what you want to accomplish and also the new skills and techniques you learn in the process.

[JD1]

Thanks MJD, I agree with your assessment of butthurt individuals plus some that appear to be just a$$h0les by nature.

There's so much to learn in life and in welding if one is open to it. I enjoy welding and trying new things I haven't done before. Looking forward to the new rods. I'm sure they're not as slick as air/arc or even plasma but for now and then, they may work out. I may PM you and the person that suggested them with my findings. Obviously I won't post them in this thread due to a few who are posting here.

If I run into enough times where an air/arc setup would be beneficial, I'd probably buy it. But plasma, although more expensive, is more versatile. So for now it's try out some chamfer electrodes and see what happens.

[M J D]

Thanks MJD, I agree with your assessment of butthurt individuals plus some that appear to be just a$$h0les by nature.

There's so much to learn in life and in welding if one is open to it. I enjoy welding and trying new things I haven't done before. Looking forward to the new rods. I'm sure they're not as slick as air/arc or even plasma but for now and then, they may work out. I may PM you and the person that suggested them with my findings. Obviously I won't post them in this thread due to a few who are posting here.

If I run into enough times where an air/arc setup would be beneficial, I'd probably buy it. But plasma, although more expensive, is more versatile. So for now it's try out some chamfer electrodes and see what happens.

Absolutely, I wouldn't recommend air arc for most things. When you have to make lots of feet of fillet weld disappear nothing beats it. Your looking for a reasonable cost, fairly efficient way to erase metal, and even with that you still need to go to some type of grinding to clean up the surface. Die grinders and the myriad of different options they offer are often the only real solution for that. Ive found over many years that the many options out there make the work so much easier with much better lasting and looking results. Everything from simple files to expensive beveling machines have their time and place.

[JD1]

Yep. You can still cook over campfires and travel out of state on a horse but why?? Unless you particularly enjoy it. I prefer stoves and cars myself. And the same with metalworking, woodworking, yard working, house remodeling equipment.

I can cut metal in half with a hacksaw but again why? I've got many other options that are way easier and faster. I do not need to become an expert with a hacksaw before it's appropriate for me to move to a Portaband. However, if the situation better fits a hacksaw that's what I'll use. But that doesn't happen very often.

[Josey]

This thread has become a very poor example for WW.
if You have nothing positive to add except sarcasm and insult nobody wants to hear your opinion's

[mla2ofus]

Speaking of horses, would someone please drag the dead horse out of this thread. I'm sure it's well tenderized by now, LOL!!

[Oscar]

I can cut metal in half with a hacksaw but again why? I've got many other options that are way easier and faster. I do not need to become an expert with a hacksaw before it's appropriate for me to move to a Portaband. However, if the situation better fits a hacksaw that's what I'll use. But that doesn't happen very often.

That's my reasoning as well. If I have a better, more efficient tool for the job, I usually use it. I'm certainly not butthurt if no one likes my suggestions I was just throwing things out there from my perspective, just like everyone else. Of course I was not expecting you to go and buy a plasma cutter if you didn't already have one. Hopefully most are smart enough to see it was merely in jest.

[JD1]

In time, Oscar, in time.

[SlowBlues]

Chamfer rods are fun! aka violent. It's never a bad idea to add another tool/technique to your arsenal.

Be sure you're welding in an environment where molten slag/metal landing on everything is ok and also wear a full sleeved jacket in addition to your gloves - it's a bit of a step up from normal grinding sparks.

They are fast but messy as heck when gouging (not cutting through) - the very few times I've used them I spent more time cleaning up the slag on the rest of the project metal than I would have welding up any "access cuts" made with a wheel (a die grinder and small grinding wheels really help with the access. Grind/cut on wheel edge directly on top of the weld bead, don't use in traditional "flat" grinding position for future reference).

Let us know how it goes and what you think about the process after the job is done. Grinding/cutting in low access areas many times is the hardest part of the job unfortunately, and those inside corner welds ALWAYS come up for beginners making shelves.

[tapwelder]

It is apparent he did not want to "solve the problem right away". Most folk offer suggestion for getting it done with what you have, not ordering equipment and waiting. Time and efficiency is not an issue, here. Because from this experience, you would likely proceed differently on your own project.

Chamfering into a corner, too.

[albrightree]

When I've had similar situations: Unable to disassemble structure, need to remove old weld in an obstructed location, need to replace with the correct size weld fillet, remove excess material to allow mounting of hardware, and need to polish to an appropriate finish for processing machinery. Most of the time I have to do it in stainless steel, and have very little room to work in. My Die grinder, and my RA Die grinder are the most common solution. They are the most accurate way to remove material, but not the easiest. It takes some practice, but you will figure out which burrs work best in each situation. There is no way to avoid making little shards of burning metal , be sure to wear long sleeves, a safety shield and safety glasses. If you have a floor sweep magnet, its a great way to pick up the shards.

Here's a set I've found handy to have around the shop for my die grinder :



It take some effort and steady hand to get good results, but you won't do too much harm if you slip a little. Using a torch, or plasma or chamfering rod might be faster, but you might just spend as much time cleaning it up anyway before you weld.

If this weld was on a structure outside, like a cat walk on top of a silo, I have in the past just cranked up the amps, and used 6010/6011 and fused it together. Every situation is evaluated differently, and you make choices to fit that situation.

post up some pics of how the chamfer rod does, I've never used it , kinda curious...

Best of luck with your project

What kind of welders are you using? I thought you just had a Lincoln 155 mig, what will you use to run the chamfering rod with.

[JD1]

@SlowBlues
@albrightree

I do have a Lincoln 135 but also a Hobart 210 mvp and a Lincoln 225 which I'll run those rods with. I knew I could put a carbide bur on my die grinder and eventually remove the weld but I have more corners than just that one to deal with.

When I heard about the chamfer rods and saw people using them I thought, "Here's something I need to try. Looks fun and it's really fast." Of course like you said, cleaning up afterwards may be an issue and I'll have to get out the die grinder anyway but gouging out the weld looks fun enough that I need to try it. And if it takes longer than just a die grinder, eh...I learned something new.

And I'll have a few rods left plus knowledge on how to use them if something appropriate comes up in the future

@albrightree
Thanks for the McMaster-Carr drawing. We have one just a few miles away so I may wind up running over there for a burr or two.

[Lis2323]

These were in today’s AL flyer. Box of 50. Aprx $17.30 usd.




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[Lis2323]

@albrightree
Thanks for the McMaster-Carr drawing. We have one just a few miles away so I may wind up running over there for a burr or two.

If and when you buy carbide burrs be sure to spend the extra buck for QUALITY ones.
These guys spin at up to 25,000 rpm so you don't want to fool around.

Mine are all Made in USA...



Someone already mentioned pine tree shaped bits. I pretty much keep one permanently mounted in my electric die grinder.




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[Ruark]

You don't have much room to work there, obviously. That one on the upper left might come out with several good whacks with a cold chisel, hard to tell. If you have an oxy-acetylene rig, you might use a welding torch tip and just sort of melt it off a little at a time.

[GeoNOregon]

I second this... wire wheel the paint off, and melt it all!

More importantly, IMO, add a gusset or two. The very firs thing I learned from the old fart carpenter I learned from, as a kid, 55+ years ago, was about the strength of triangulation. (Corner gussets, girder beams, roof framing, etc).

I have used that basic knowledge in everything I've built since; using every material from fabric to stone.

Ask yourself, are these ugly welds gonna be seen? If not, then don't waste your time on them. There's better ways to improve the strength/rigidity, where you'll make significant gains. If you just fix the ugly, marginal welds, what you'll have is stronger welds. If you spend the time gusseting, you'll have something even stronger.

For example, if what you showed us is a 'tray frame' for a welding box to sit in, just cover the ugly up with a piece of thin plate, and burn some good welds on the perimeter, here and there. You'll gain much more, for the time spent AND hide the uglies.

GeoD

[farmersammm]

I didn't read all the way through the thread........................................BUT

Welds like that................just melt them, and then whack the assembly to break what's left of the weld. I can't remember how far back I started to do it, but it's been decades.

Just turn the torch down, and preheat, then gently hit the air to peel the bead off.. I mean EASY, otherwise the air stream will cut into the good metal. It's basically just scarfing on a small scale.

[JD1]

Just an update....I did get in some 1/8" chamfer rods. I went another direction on the original project but a day or so ago tried out one of the chamfer rods. Absolutely awesome. Violent and really fast. Makes a weld vanish almost instantly. Some cleanup and you may have to fill in the groove, depending, but quicker than a bur.

Takes a bit of experience and a good touch to keep from tearing up your workpiece. I may get some 3/32" which should be easier to control. One of those tools that you don't need very often but when you do there isn't much that takes its place. Only downside I can see is that you have to keep the angle real low, like 10 degrees or you'll burn a hole. So I can imagine in some situations that wouldn't be possible.

1/8" spec is 150 - 250 amps. I started high and wound up at 150 amps. Maybe can go lower, I haven't tried yet.


Farmersamm, I'd try torching but right now I don't own one. So this takes it's place.

[KenO]

I would use an arc gouger. Its something you want in your arsenal anyways. If you have a stick machine, and air compressor your good to go, the carbons aren't that expensive. The stinger shouldn't be that expensive, probably around the price of a grinder, you might find a used one on ebay.

My old backhoe had/has lots of really ugly/gorilla welds that I remove with the gouge when I get tired of looking at them. It saves hours of grinder time.

I'm unfamiliar with the plasma gouge.