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Thread: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

  1. #26
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    I've always just bought a cheap impact socket that the o.d. was close to the i.d. of the slots and welded small pieces of keystock to it for the pins. Of course Ive never had one I couldn't loosen with a punch provided I could access it easily such as yours.
    I took a closer look before I buttoned it up for the night. The threads are staked You can see the punch marks made at the factory. I don't believe they were staked to absolutely prevent them from moving.........just to make for something like a friction lock not. I mauled one pocket trying a punch/drift.........not gonna touch it until I get a socket made..

  2. #27
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Near as I can tell, this is the current equivalent of my old machine.

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    The BH316-2 comes closest to matching the specs on my old machine. https://bushhog.com/single_spindle/b...otary-cutters/

    Pricey little guy https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing...bush-hog-bh316

  3. #28
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    I don't like the solid top link. Mine has chains where the bridle meets the deck. The chains allow for some float if you go over something bigger than you thought it was. Mine allows the tail wheel to ride over stuff, and lift the entire deck. The new ones look really rigid......not sure how good that is

  4. #29
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    That one at Tractor House doesn't have gear box HP rating.
    Many 6' and 7' are only 60 HP rated by me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #30
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    If You're Gonna Mess it Up

    Do it With Gusto!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    So, I'm cruzin' along.........THE GREATEST MOWCHINIST IN ALL INTERSTELLAR SPACE!!!!!!!

    Name:  puller39.jpg
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Size:  219.9 KB I'm using this stuff I got from the oilfield pump supply. HSS won't cut it without squealing, only thing that does a good job is carbide. I have absolutely no idea what this stuff is, but it's tough.

    Got 'er faced on both sides, and plopped it on the rotary table.

    Name:  puller40.jpg
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Size:  223.4 KB It's going well. Have to really go slow when going through the pipe wall. Lot of vibration. Thin walled pipe that's not rigid at all.

    Then the Crowning Achievement of the EveningName:  tkqe4fh-smiley-two-thumbs-up175028_285604.gif
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    Name:  puller41.jpg
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Size:  245.0 KB The part worked loose in the chuck. I knew it was not the best setup, because the thin wall stuff tends to crush in the in the chuck jaws, and work loose. I should have kept an eye on how tight it was between operations And, I was taking fairly deep cuts for my mill (.125 DOC, two passes to a depth of .250). Do it over in the morning with a smaller end mill, and less aggressive cuts. Carbide end mills get real pricey when you crash 'em

    This one gets hung on the WALL OF SHAME

    (Sigh)

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  7. #31
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    long time lurker and not any kind of machinist/ welder.

    but could you not turn up a plug to go into the tube? just the height of the jaws so you can then clamp down hard without fear of crushing the tube? just a easy push in by hand plug?

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  9. #32
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Maybe something fast and easy to make like hardwood... easier to drive in and out and sacrificial where you are milling....
    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
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  11. #33
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    hardwood, softwood, plastic anything with a bit of non compressibility about it will work. even better if it comes out the tras....ahem the this a very useful thing i may need it later pile


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  13. #34
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Hey guys, thanks for the ideas. It turned out to be amazingly simple. I was using the wrong technique.

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Size:  201.0 KB Round tubing mills better when you work from the inside out I guess there's two possible explanations..........One, the force presses against the chuck jaws instead of pressing away from the jaws.........Two, the end mill likes to enter the metal on an inside curve, less shock, and a broader face to take the force of the mill. Either way, it worked.

    I still don't really know what this stuff is. I tried a HSS end mill, and even with coolant, it started screaming. It simply wouldn't cut it without the high pitched whine. This tells you that it's probably bad for the cutting edge I'm thinking. Switched to a carbide fine rougher, and it went much better. Vibration was an issue at anything over .050 DOC. This stuff is NASTY.

    The Glamour Shot

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Size:  221.0 KB It was a real bit of work to clean up all the burrs. Lot of time with a little file.

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Size:  234.2 KB I'll weld a top on it tomorrow (I hope it's weldable) then weld a large nut to the cover for a wrench to grab.

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  15. #35
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    On tube like that if you reverse your jaws and hold from the inside you will get better results holding it. Not always possible but it helps. As for the chatter, hard to explain that, must be that the tube is more rigid if your trying to expand it.

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  17. #36
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    A piece of thin plate was cut, and welded to the tubing to make the "roof" of the socket.

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Size:  202.2 KB The welds are nothing more than very hot tack welds. The idea is to keep heat to a minimum. There's no need for bigger welds. The weak links in the chain are the castellated fingers that grab the nut, so the welds need only be as strong as those fingers.

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Size:  207.1 KB Centered the nut, and tacked it on the outside. Then the inside was welded to the plate. After welding, the tack ground off.

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Size:  194.1 KB All set for what I thought was a fairly straightforward job.

    This Ruined our Evening

    Name:  puller50.jpg
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Size:  171.2 KB I mentioned earlier that the nut was staked. This is what "staked" means, for those not familiar with the term. When a nut is installed, a punch is used to deform the thread so that the nut won't back off easily. Or, when the nut is made, it's staked to deform the threads prior to installation. Well.....................it accomplished its mission

    It took us close to half an hour to get the damn thing off. I had to hold the socket down with all the pressure I could manage, to keep it from tilting as the wrench was turned, so it wouldn't come off the nut. Meanwhile......................................... ......................

    Name:  puller51.jpg
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Size:  214.4 KB I had to give a 3/4 drive breaker bar, with a pipe extension, to K'kins so she could turn the nut while I held the socket. It was a miserable job. Even with the breaker bar, she had to put her back into it to get it to turn. PITA Naturally, a nut of this type is usually fine thread...............which takes about a bazillion turns to get off

    I have this horrible feeling that the gear is a press fit, or at least a very tight interference fit.............WHICH MEANS THIS THING MIGHT HAVE TO BE REMOVED, AND PUT ON A PRESS. Probably weighs close to 150lbs. I might just weld some plates on the deck of the mower, and use the Mother of All Pullers. I might get lucky, and be able to drive the shaft through the gear. All of this to replace a stinkin' seal
    Last edited by farmersammm; 08-06-2021 at 10:59 PM.

  18. #37
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    First... the stakes I use a very pointy die grinder burr in the keyways to take out the staked threads, Second... if that nut sets the preload on the tapered bearings, I doubt the gear is that tight on the shaft. I deal with that stuff all the time with New Holland swather header drive gearboxes.

  19. #38
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    First... the stakes I use a very pointy die grinder burr in the keyways to take out the staked threads, Second... if that nut sets the preload on the tapered bearings, I doubt the gear is that tight on the shaft. I deal with that stuff all the time with New Holland swather header drive gearboxes.
    I don't know that I'd have the confidence to go into the space between the keyway, and the nut, with a die grinderName:  t519276_scared-smiley-emoticon.gif
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Size:  393 Bytes. I need to go to Tulsa for some stuff........I'll probably stop by the dealer to take a look at a new nut. I'm betting it's deformed right from the factory, which means it's going to be a bear to get back on. I'd bet they use an impact socket to do these (get them close to where the preload is set). No way the socket I made would stand up to an impact gun.

    I think you're probably right about the interference fit on the gear. I hope the water contamination didn't rust it to the shaft.

    Speaking of water...........This gearbox has always been full of water when I get ready to use it once a year maybe. Too much to lay it off on just condensation...........tons of water. I'm thinking I might be looking at a new front input shaft seal too. It's always leaked a bit from the input shaft...................if oil's getting out, water might be getting in.

  20. #39
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersammm View Post
    I don't know that I'd have the confidence to go into the space between the keyway, and the nut, with a die grinderName:  t519276_scared-smiley-emoticon.gif
Views: 167
Size:  393 Bytes. I need to go to Tulsa for some stuff........I'll probably stop by the dealer to take a look at a new nut. I'm betting it's deformed right from the factory, which means it's going to be a bear to get back on. I'd bet they use an impact socket to do these (get them close to where the preload is set). No way the socket I made would stand up to an impact gun.

    I think you're probably right about the interference fit on the gear. I hope the water contamination didn't rust it to the shaft.

    Speaking of water...........This gearbox has always been full of water when I get ready to use it once a year maybe. Too much to lay it off on just condensation...........tons of water. I'm thinking I might be looking at a new front input shaft seal too. It's always leaked a bit from the input shaft...................if oil's getting out, water might be getting in.
    You only have to get the top 3 threads or so, those small spots don't affect the rest of the threads. Done it many times on CMI grader spanner nuts on the drive sprockets and reused all of them.

  21. #40
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    I know its a little late to mention this and by dismantling the gear box you can clean/check it properly but I've pulled seals like the one you are working to replace by drilling a small hole in the metal of the seal and using a codged up slide hammer with a sheet metal screw brazed to the end. Just a belated thought.
    ---Meltedmetal

  22. #41
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Meltedmetal View Post
    I know its a little late to mention this and by dismantling the gear box you can clean/check it properly but I've pulled seals like the one you are working to replace by drilling a small hole in the metal of the seal and using a codged up slide hammer with a sheet metal screw brazed to the end. Just a belated thought.
    That might have worked. I tried everything else, but all it did was mangle, and I still couldn't get under it to get leverage to pry it out. The metal in the middle was too thin, and all the seal sides did was collapse but not move. Then I started to worry about dinging the bore, and I gave up. Sheeeeesh!

  23. #42
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    everything's on hold anyways, at least for the morning

    K'kins is off to Dollar General seeing if they have a carpet cleaner machine for rent

    Dog crapped ALL OVER MY GLOBAL TRADING CENTER WET SLIMEY CRAP.

    Worst thing..............IT'S MY FAULT. He was wanting out around 4:00AM, and I thought he just wanted to get at the coyotes, and wouldn't let him out Boy was I wrong

    Now he won't come back in the house since she left......................Hell, I don't blame him...........smells like dog crap in here

  24. #43
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Name:  b5cfac18533d55d1ec21643241a16e681e27074bc19ecfbde3da2534f0b1eac8.jpg
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Size:  43.1 KB Oh, if only...................................

    Oooooomph!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Size:  229.2 KB Stupid dog musta been turning in a circle while sprayin' it all over the place
    Last edited by farmersammm; 08-07-2021 at 09:15 AM.

  25. #44
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Easiest way that I have found to deal with a nut that the threads have ben staked is to simply drill the staked portion out. This removes the deformed material, you just need to go a little bigger in diameter then the deformed area and slightly deeper. Looking a what you are working on I would guess it has been repaired before, typically manufactures that use a lock nut with a lock ring like pictured would not also stake the threads.
    Mike

  26. #45
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Here’s a serious suggestion:

    In my part of the world, I’ll bet half the old rotary cutters in existence- including my old 7’ Woods- have had their gearboxes drained and refilled with corn head grease because of a leaky seal. Were it mine, and needing to use it, I’d flush that gearbox with diesel, put that nut back on and stake it, put the cover on, throw a new seal in, fill it up with cornhead grease, and get my mowing done. I don’t use mine that much in the scheme of things- who cares if I need to add a little once in a while?
    Last edited by Oxford1; 08-07-2021 at 03:56 PM.

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  28. #46
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

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Size:  226.7 KB At least ONE problem solved,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

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  30. #47
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by leightrepairs View Post
    Easiest way that I have found to deal with a nut that the threads have ben staked is to simply drill the staked portion out. This removes the deformed material, you just need to go a little bigger in diameter then the deformed area and slightly deeper. Looking a what you are working on I would guess it has been repaired before, typically manufactures that use a lock nut with a lock ring like pictured would not also stake the threads.
    I believe you called it right. This thing was ruined by the last person who got in the gearbox. I hate morons, I really do.

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Size:  187.4 KB I think the damn thing was either cross threaded, or otherwise ruined, when the nut was put back on the shaft after an earlier "repair". It had to be staked, so they thought, to keep it from coming off due to the damaged threads.

    Name:  puller57.jpg
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Size:  173.8 KB The nut is ruined. Note the crushed minor thread diameter. The peaks were flattened.

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Size:  176.6 KB Some of the thread still looks good, but I don't trust it at this point. The nut cannot be placed freely back on the shaft, so the bad thread, and nut makes it a no-go.

    A new shaft, if in stock, is about $300. New nut, which I need anyway, is about $17. It appears that the bearings, and cups are still good. I need to balance the cost of the shaft against the price of a new machine, or a used one which might be in just as bad shape. New shaft gets us in business as soon as it arrives, while leaving me free time to do other stuff that needs doing. $300 only buys about 6-7 bales. My work time is more valuable right now.

    If I can get rid of the chisel damage, it's still not a sure thing that the damaged thread will hold a nut properly. The thread is good beyond the damaged area, which might be enough to hold a new nut. Grind out the damage, and thread on either side of the damage might take a nut, and the nut might act as a thread chaser. It's not like there's any torque on the nut, and I don't know what the force is when it's holding the endplay in adjustment. Probably not that much.

    I think this was a one way trip when it was reassembled. They F'd it up, knew it,, and used the chisel/punch in an attempt at keeping it together. It worked, but it was, like I say, a one way trip.
    Last edited by farmersammm; 08-07-2021 at 06:53 PM.

  31. #48
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    The staking damage to the nut didn't make the problem. The nut itself, going on, did the damage. Likewise, it didn't do any more damage coming off.......everything was already ruined. I hate morons. I dunno if my Uncle worked on it, or had his buddy work on it, or took it somewhere...........either way......whoever did it deserves a prize.

  32. #49
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XRKJFPB...ing=UTF8&psc=1 get yourself something like this. Add a thin washer or 2 under the nut, preferably new. This will get you into a better spot on the threads. Being an adjustment nut it's not under a lot of force. Apply some red loctite and should be good for the rest of the machines lifetime. Ideally the shaft would have been longer with more threads and 2 thin nuts with a lock tab like a large trailer spindle would have been a better setup.
    Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.

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  34. #50
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    Re: Hub Puller Bad Gateway Update

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XRKJFPB...ing=UTF8&psc=1 get yourself something like this. Add a thin washer or 2 under the nut, preferably new. This will get you into a better spot on the threads. Being an adjustment nut it's not under a lot of force. Apply some red loctite and should be good for the rest of the machines lifetime. Ideally the shaft would have been longer with more threads and 2 thin nuts with a lock tab like a large trailer spindle would have been a better setup.
    I've always wanted a set of thread files. I never saw the tool you linked to. Pretty neat. I'm wondering which is better.........files, or tool

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