8" 3/8 wall 42 foot joints of pipe EIGHT DOLLARS A FOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10" 1/4 wall NINE DOLLARS A FOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if its the right stuff, gotta be worth a case of beer to the guy for helping out, plus keeps youin the good books for later!!
8" 3/8 wall 42 foot joints of pipe EIGHT DOLLARS A FOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10" 1/4 wall NINE DOLLARS A FOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New pipe?
I've worked with some nasty pipe, and it's not as bad as it looks. Long as it isn't really badly pitted.
Miller 350 Dynasty
Miller Trailblazer
Miller 625 Plasma Died and needs a new circuit board so its an expensive boat anchor now
Lincoln Power MIG
Victor oxy/acetylene
Hyperthem 85
I am going to build one before long but in a few years i want to build a new shop the walls will be shorter in the new shop so i have to figure that out. Its hard to believe that a 855 dosent weigh 2 times what the book says.
We took a look at the beam today. It's two 40' pieces of W6. It's been laying on the ground for years, but it's been mostly in sandy ground. Digging a bit underneath, I was able to run my finger along the buried flange, and it seems pit free. Sand drains well, not like clay. So.........this is useable stuff.
The guy has some 5" (5 5/8 OD) pipe left on the racks. He used to be in the pipe business too. Anyways, I'm not sure, because I didn't know to ask, if this stuff is possibly casing. And if it is casing, is it weldable All I could find on the internet was a discussion in some ABSOLUTE BS AWS FORUM. Bunch of idiots talking all around the subject, and not knowing crap.
If this crap is weldable, fine.........if it isn't.......it's back to square one. The consensus on the "expert forum" is that it's difficult to weld right (shrug). What info I could find on the actual pipe is some stuff about class differences.....................D,, and C, class pipe.
Excuuuuuuuuuuse me.............it was an engineering forum............
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=457871
The reason we're now looking at 5" pipe is the availability of plenty of the W6. This changes the game entirely.
Instead of having to use stouter stuff for a mobile setup, I can now do what I've wanted to do for years. Build a stationary small bridge crane that is moveable.
I never was crazy about having to slide a motor over an input shaft while trying to move over rough ground.
But, with a small bridge crane, the crane is immobile........while you have full X and Y control over whatever you're lifting. No problems with dealing with unlevel ground.......you can move it into place, then level it. It sits there till you're done, no tugging on it. It's semi permanent. Finish up with it, and tow it out to the pasture, etc...........where it'll sit till the next time you need it.
The only problem was................not enough material at a reasonable price. A bridge crane takes a lot of material to build. 4 uprights, and 4 different crossmembers. Then,, you're looking at 3 separate beams. A 10x10x13H crane will take over 100 feet of structural pipe(or square tubing). The beams will just about completely use up a 40' stick of the W6.
5" pipe in Texas, according to some Craigslist ads, is around $4/ft. That's more in line with a bare bones budget, and it's more than stout enough for something that won't move with a load on it. I don't anticipate paying more in Oklahoma.
I've located a couple of suppliers that sell wraparound templates for marking saddle cuts, so I think it's doable. I'm not a pipe welder, and there's no way I can eyeball a saddle cut.
Both the crackerbox, and the engine drive, are AC capable, so I don't see magnetized pipe as a huge problem (yet)
I always go with one inch of I-beam per one foot of span. I learned this while working with Bart at BShavio steel. A light ten will outperform a heavy eight not considering twisting and flexing. But Ideally, a ten-foot span deserves a ten-inch I-beam. Commercial buildings used to be built like this and that method provides a 500 pound per square foot flooring load.
If you put some gussets in the corners which will not interfere with anything anyway, then you are cutting down the span but not losing any functionality you could go with the eight-inch beam. I used to build moving lifting frames many years ago about forty years ago for ocean racing boats, to remove the large Oldsmobile siamese big-block racing engines from the boats. And we used a ten-inch beam to span ten feet. They were great they could with two chain hoists mounted to the gussets lift the back of the boat with the two engines inside. And if you took the wheel rotation locks off you could with a forklift move the boat with the lifting frames. But if you forgot to take the locks off the wheel, or hit a pothole the I-beam twisted up and set the boat gently on the ground.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Get some 7016 you will not use anything else ever for anything, except stainless steel or aluminum. A three-thirty-second rod penetrates twice as much as a 7018 and just will not run. If I am doing vertical I can run it off of a Miller 110 volt machine at 105 amps and it just bites into the work and does not run. It is what they use on a pipe. They use it in Marinas around here, for travel lift repairs, pipe docks, pipe barges, and custom forks for lifting boats. Guys in the marina can weld with 110 volts.
I have fifty pounds if you would like a few pounds to try out.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
They do make cast steel pipe it is extremely nice stuff, it can take a beating. I got a hold of some cast 5" pipe because I got a great deal on 5" mortar shells one year and the fellow with the pipe said cast steel should be good. They used to make high-pressure cylinders out of cast steel, if you wanted to blow something up with a cylinder that is the cylinder you want, it just stretches and turns into a ball before letting loose with a near atomic-like detonation. The new cylinders just split down the side where they are welded. Knowing about the high-pressure cylinders I gave it a whirl and it worked out nicely. Unfortunately, I never came across any more 5" shells. But if it is cast iron then that is something you do not want.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Bill, I can derate to 2000# for now. The 6" beam gives me a super healthy margin at that rating.
That's almost 5x overkill (safety margin)
If I need to upgrade sometime in the future, I simply use an 8" beam. The side beams aren't an issue, they only carry half of any weight on the main beam. Just be a matter of having the 8" as an accessory. Hang it in place of the 6" beam. Probably need 2 sets of trolleys, but I can probably figure out a way to make one set of trolleys carry 2 different size beams.
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
The whole weight thing is mostly dictated by OSHA, and other specs tied to engineering. Safety.
I remember when I first put the crane attachment together, I was worried about rating it.
I was lifting relatively (what I thought) heavy stuff with the extension completely retracted. Note that the weight is in excess of 6' beyond the base point of the entire system........the lift cylinders. And it's only about 4' out from the attachment.
Now here's the potentially dangerous thing about NOT knowing how heavy your lift is. I didn't realize, until I looked at the specs, that the bush hog weighs 1350# AND I HAD THE EXTENSION OUT TO ALMOST MAX. It's swinging around 8' in front of the tractor, and about 13' ahead of the lift cylinders. (for reference, I'm using the place where the cylinder attaches to the loader arm). The nested tubing is extended close to 6+ from the attachment. Ultimately, the entire thing is hanging on 2 1/2 square tubing, nested inside 3" tubing. Stuff will handle way more than you think it will. I run into this all the time.
I don't stand under this rig, but will stand under the bridge crane...............so it's a little more sensitive to rating limits.
Come to think of it, I'm probably out around 10' beyond the tractor, maybe more.
Weight is crazy to estimate.
I just can't understand how the cutter can weigh 1300#, and a Cummins only weigh 2600#. Only thing I can think of......................the Cummins looks massive, but it's mostly hollow
https://paccarpowertrain.com/wp-cont...0%20X%20162%20 The new motors in the current Peterbilts weighs about the same as the old 855's. It's just a plain PITA to guess weights.
The 5-1 safety factor is for overhead lifting like bridge/jib cranes. Forklifts/loaders have the same margin within their designed lifting envelope. Forklifts are rated at 24-36 and possibly 48" centers depending on capacity. My 20K forklift will pick up over 30K right at the forks, would I lift that to max height and tilt forward, no way.
My Peterbilt has a C13 that weighs about 2800. 3406/C15 weighs about 3800 and N14/ISX around the same.
I have a 15K fish scale for weighing stuff, it has been invaluable.
Steve from SoCal now in Hutch
Miller Dynasty 300DX Coolmate3 Speedway Torch
Miller XMT 450 MPa plus with D-74 MPa Plus
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Hypertherm Powermax 45
And a whole bunch of machines
I borrowed our tenant's forklift years ago it was a big Hyster electric forklift. It had five-foot forks and the big battery installed in it. It was supposed to do 5,000 pounds thirty inches out. I had used it for pallets of 4'x8' sheets of galvanized sheet metal before and it was a rock. But I normally used the smaller propane-powered forklift with four-foot forks to do the 4'x8' sheets and it performed well. This time, in particular, the load came in and it was all 5'x10' sheets and they were centered in the truck, so I got the Hyster and picked up two pallets at once, that should have been about 5,000 pounds by my calculations. There was perhaps a one-degree slope under the forklift, and when I went to lift the load she tilted forward compressing the front tires and perhaps the asphalt. After I pulled the load to the edge of the truck so I could re-choke-up on it, it was better, but it was still bouncing in an uncomfortable way. So all this 2x, 4x,10x safety margin is smoke being blown up our arses if you ask me. I know after the first lift I put my hands under the wheel and grabbed it like my life depended on it. Because if you get thrown up into the cage above, you could easily get some brain damage or a broken neck. And I will never strap myself into a forklift. It would be like strapping yourself to a horse or a bull.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Put some nice big plate gussets in the corners, maybe bring the span down to seven feet. The only problem I see is that you will never be able to set the motor down to the side of the vehicle with or without gussets. You are going to have to have front and back movement to get it out.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
The safety factor is NOT for the forklift capacity. The lifting parts are designed with these features. That is why a 7K forklift can pick up a 11K machine with extra counterweight. The parts that IF they broke in normal use could cause human harm. Overhead lifting is a category unto itself with regard to design and specs, you ever notice many chain types say "not for overhead lifting" Forklifts themselves are in a different category because generally people are not under the load.
Steve from SoCal now in Hutch
Miller Dynasty 300DX Coolmate3 Speedway Torch
Miller XMT 450 MPa plus with D-74 MPa Plus
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Hypertherm Powermax 45
And a whole bunch of machines