Dialarc Time; Zero Experience Here!

[Willie B]

As to different versions of the Dialarc, there absolutely was. The first MA type Dialarc came out in about 1974, they had a white faceplate and 250 amp maximum amperage on DC. The next version in the 80’s had a black faceplate and 265 amp maximum DC output. In the late 90’s they went away from the pin type lead connections and went to normal lugs under a panel.


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I think my 250HF was 1984. If I recall it was rated 250 DC, 310 AC & welding big aluminum I wanted ALL 310 amps!

[HisWord1ST]

Is anyone willing to weigh in on the Everlast 160sth or Everlast 200sti? Does anyone have any thoughts on the primeweld CT520D vs CT520DP?

[HisWord1ST]

You clearly haven't read the OP's posts.

You might be right.

[HisWord1ST]

I would need help trying to interpret your rambling, incoherent posts, but I'm pretty certain I'm not missing anything so I don't bother.

Hey this is totally unrelated to the topic at hand here but I see you like vises...what are your thoughts on this?

[vwguy3]

I'll jump in for Strawberry, "who would want to mess with that old pile of crap when you can get a minty new one at Harbor Freight!"

[G-ManBart]

Hey this is totally unrelated to the topic at hand here but I see you like vises...what are your thoughts on this?

It looks to be all there and sound. If the screw isn't worn out it would be easy to put back to use. That style bracket and wedges is typical of vises made before 1900 give or take. Price is all about jaw width, weight and condition...even a 4" jaw vise in that condition is worth around $200 these days in good condition. Something with 6" jaws jumps up to about $350-400 and anything bigger gets silly. I sold an 8" jaw monster than weighed 175lbs for $1K and then the guy spent $200 to ship it to California, and he was thrilled about it!

[HisWord1ST]

It looks to be all there and sound. If the screw isn't worn out it would be easy to put back to use. That style bracket and wedges is typical of vises made before 1900 give or take. Price is all about jaw width, weight and condition...even a 4" jaw vise in that condition is worth around $200 these days in good condition. Something with 6" jaws jumps up to about $350-400 and anything bigger gets silly. I sold an 8" jaw monster than weighed 175lbs for $1K and then the guy spent $200 to ship it to California, and he was thrilled about it!

Looks like it's a 4" jaw and he wants $200 for it...thanks for the info though!

[HisWord1ST]

So how about a thunderbolt 230? It is a 2 hour drive each way and $150 with a long power cord but NO leads.

Does that seem worth it or is a primeweld stick tig 50 amp plasma cutter with pilot start (is that what it's called?) and 3 year warranty better? I'm pretty sure the new welder would have shorter leads and power cable at the same price point

[bead-boy]

If Thunderbolt is AC only it is a fair price, but leads are expensive. Also, no leads means you can't test it, you are buying it in unknown condition unless they have leads to use to test..
If it is AC/DC then it is a much better buy, I wouldn't hesitate. Might find used leads online somewhere but that is a bit of a headache.

Many here are not too keen on those combo process machines. If it breaks you have nothing, versus multiple machines, you only lose one process when one of them breaks.

[Sparkie1957]

The Thunderbolt is a good little hobby machine. I’m a Lincoln guy but actually prefer it to the AC225 Lincoln do to it being continuously adjustable amperage output. The $91 Dialarc was the one to buy, you could find used lead if you look around but it’s your money


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[HisWord1ST]

The Thunderbolt is a good little hobby machine. I’m a Lincoln guy but actually prefer it to the AC225 Lincoln do to it being continuously adjustable amperage output. The $91 Dialarc was the one to buy, you could find used lead if you look around but it’s your money


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Aw really? That's quite the bummer since I'm pretty sure I figured out a workaround for my truck liftgate issue!

[HisWord1ST]

If Thunderbolt is AC only it is a fair price, but leads are expensive. Also, no leads means you can't test it, you are buying it in unknown condition unless they have leads to use to test..
If it is AC/DC then it is a much better buy, I wouldn't hesitate. Might find used leads online somewhere but that is a bit of a headache.

Many here are not too keen on those combo process machines. If it breaks you have nothing, versus multiple machines, you only lose one process when one of them breaks.

I see... I had assumed it was both AC and DC - I didn't realize that they made an only AC version so I'll have to find out

So it is both AC and DC! And the power cord is 12 ft in length. This can be used for stick and Tig both, correct? Also, does this welder require the one gauge welding cable the dialarc requires, or would a higher gauge, less expensive lead cable work if in this one has less power than that?

[G-ManBart]

I see... I had assumed it was both AC and DC - I didn't realize that they made an only AC version so I'll have to find out

So it is both AC and DC! And the power cord is 12 ft in length. This can be used for stick and Tig both, correct? Also, does this welder require the one gauge welding cable the dialarc requires, or would a higher gauge, less expensive lead cable work if in this one has less power than that?

It sounds like it's a Thunderbolt 225 (no 230 I'm aware of). They have 225A output on AC and 150A output on DC. If that's the model (or one of several similar Thunderbolt models they call for 47.5A input at 230V. In reality you can run them easily on a 30A or 40A 230V circuit.

Technically, you can do scratch start TIG on steel/stainless with one, but Miller techs will tell you not to try it. One Miller tech talked about the pile of dead Thunderbolts they used to have from people trying to use them for TIG. There's a reason the smallest Miller transformer TIG weighed 450lbs give or take...it needed to be for reliability.

With that said, the Thunderbolt is a nice little stick welder and will handle most anything you'll tackle in a home shop...I've had three or four of them.

[Sberry]

No lead and 4 hour drive time. That would buy a 160, make it near free. I agree, not for tig. You havnt struck an arc, do 1thing at a time. You dont need all that crap. The machine is just the start. While there is nothing fundamentally wrong with an AC buzzer technology has made it near obsolete, not that it cant be used but why start so lame, something lots upgrade from. Thats why all those are for sale. I already have the red one. Its a great machine, ran hundreds of # at one point. Its a great welding machine but today wouldnt buy it again unless it was a deal next door and I really needed one.
Today would likely buy a clone of the blue one if I needed it. 120V is sooooooooo handy.
The Dial is a great machine too,,,, why buy a new modern dvi that weighs 15#, can run from a 12 cord when you can buy a 40 yr old 400# machine that needs 100A service that you cant lift or move and dont have power for,,,, that sounds like a way better plan.

[HisWord1ST]

Technically, you can do scratch start TIG on steel/stainless with one, but Miller techs will tell you not to try it. One Miller tech talked about the pile of dead Thunderbolts they used to have from people trying to use them for TIG. There's a reason the smallest Miller transformer TIG weighed 450lbs give or take...it needed to be for reliability.

I found out the one for $150 is from an auction and without leads or experience, there's no reliability in my being able to justify the drive or the expense on that. On top of that, this guy seems in a big hurry to unload it which isn't always a great sign.

Glad you mentioned this on the TIG because while I know nothing of TIG, there was another listed with a TIG torch and I wouldn't want to buy a machine that's dead because it was used improperly and not even know it.

[KenO]

I see the OP passed on the deal. I just wanted to add that I have one, and its a great machine. I use it for stick, TIG, and occasional arc gouging.

I bought it from a shop going out of business over 20 years ago. They loaded it on my truck for me, and I used a chain fall hanging in my garage to unload. I put it in a corner where I hard wired it for 100A. It doesn't move, I ran the leads overhead to my fab table, if I have to go any further, I plug in extensions, or use the gas drive.

You can sometimes find leads on Facebook marketplace, or Craigslist. The connectors are costly, I like Tweeco, which run the price up.

I don't know what your use would have been, but for general around the house/farm/ranch, the Migs are hard to beat.

[HisWord1ST]

No lead and 4 hour drive time. That would buy a 160, make it near free. I agree, not for tig. You havnt struck an arc, do 1thing at a time. You dont need all that crap. The machine is just the start. While there is nothing fundamentally wrong with an AC buzzer technology has made it near obsolete, not that it cant be used but why start so lame, something lots upgrade from. Thats why all those are for sale. I already have the red one. Its a great machine, ran hundreds of # at one point. Its a great welding machine but today wouldnt buy it again unless it was a deal next door and I really needed one.
Today would likely buy a clone of the blue one if I needed it. 120V is sooooooooo handy.
The Dial is a great machine too,,,, why buy a new modern dvi that weighs 15#, can run from a 12 cord when you can buy a 40 yr old 400# machine that needs 100A service that you cant lift or move and dont have power for,,,, that sounds like a way better plan.

Yes, one thing at a time and I understand your perspective on these older machines being outdated.

You're suggesting I buy a dvi that weighs 15 lbs but I only see larger machines and not the machine shown in your image there when I search Miller DVI - or is that an example and not the specific welder you're suggesting would be a good one to start with?

The DVI is MIG, right? Everywhere I've read that while it's easier to gain confidence beginning with flux-cored process, it's much harder to know you are welding correctly and so your welds may be garbage but still look reasonable. I'd rather learn to do it correctly from the start and be certain that my welds will hold.

Is a 12 cord a 12 gauge extension cord plugged into a standard household outlet?

[HisWord1ST]

I see the OP passed on the deal. I just wanted to add that I have one, and its a great machine. I use it for stick, TIG, and occasional arc gouging.

I bought it from a shop going out of business over 20 years ago. They loaded it on my truck for me, and I used a chain fall hanging in my garage to unload. I put it in a corner where I hard wired it for 100A. It doesn't move, I ran the leads overhead to my fab table, if I have to go any further, I plug in extensions, or use the gas drive.

You can sometimes find leads on Facebook marketplace, or Craigslist. The connectors are costly, I like Tweeco, which run the price up.

I don't know what your use would have been, but for general around the house/farm/ranch, the Migs are hard to beat.

Yes I passed on it ultimately.

My interest in welding would be in fabricating simple fitness equipment at first but then potentially building more complex pieces, a trailer, a flatbed for my box truck, tables, repairs, etc...

It's odd because I get the sense that while most people experienced with welding advocate starting with stick, most spend the majority of their time using MIG because it's faster from what I understand - is that right?

[M J D]

DVI is simply dual voltage input, really nothing to do with MIG other than many mig welders are DVI. I have the Esab 180I and highly recommend that machine.

[tapwelder]

You are correct many folk use mig. Whatever you choose, learn to weld. I think mig is the most deceptive process. And with some of what you desire to make you actually need sound welds not just pretty. Nice looking beads don't always represent good welds especially with mig..

Buy a nice modern machine, then get to welding.

I am not nostalgic, I would not to own a 400lbs electric welder. Cost of appropriate length leads would run as much as a new machine.

[KenO]

Yes I passed on it ultimately.

My interest in welding would be in fabricating simple fitness equipment at first but then potentially building more complex pieces, a trailer, a flatbed for my box truck, tables, repairs, etc...

It's odd because I get the sense that while most people experienced with welding advocate starting with stick, most spend the majority of their time using MIG because it's faster from what I understand - is that right?

I replied earlier, and it disappeared, I hope this isn't a double post.

Its not just because MIG is faster, there are other advantages. Much easier to weld the thinner tubing you might use for the fitness equipment, the duel voltage machine gives you portability to areas without 230V. You load it with a roll of wire and you are good to go. Well, you will need a bottle of gas also. With stick, the popular 7018 rod should be stored properly.

There are lots of YouTubes to help get up to speed with any process. You might think about a Multi purpose machine which will cover all your bases.

[Willie B]

Most beginner welders want to weld thinner metal. Lots of room for argument on the subject, but most feel stick welding doesn't work well until somewhat over 1/16".
MIG works well even under 1/16"(16 gauge).

TIG is good for a variety of metals & all thicknesses, but TIG is expensive equipment to buy. You can get a cheap TIG good for auto body work, it is pretty limited as to what else it can do. There are about 1000 TIG machines on the market, each with some limitations.

[HisWord1ST]

DVI is simply dual voltage input, really nothing to do with MIG other than many mig welders are DVI. I have the Esab 180I and highly recommend that machine.

That looks like a great welder and very portable and lightweight. From what I read on it, it seems like it's very simple and user friendly while being very capable. It's about $250 more than the CT520DP which is 200 amp and does 50 amp plasma cutting also (although I don't have a compressor and think I'd need one to use that feature). So I'm just looking to weigh out the options and get the greatest value at the least expense.

You are correct many folk use mig. Whatever you choose, learn to weld. I think mig is the most deceptive process. And with some of what you desire to make you actually need sound welds not just pretty. Nice looking beads don't always represent good welds especially with mig..

Buy a nice modern machine, then get to welding.

I am not nostalgic, I would not to own a 400lbs electric welder. Cost of appropriate length leads would run as much as a new machine.

Any recommendations at the greatest value with the least cost involved?

Space is a premium since with all the strength equipment I have so a smaller welder would make sense and those leads have only become more costly from what I can tell.

I replied earlier, and it disappeared, I hope this isn't a double post.

Its not just because MIG is faster, there are other advantages. Much easier to weld the thinner tubing you might use for the fitness equipment, the duel voltage machine gives you portability to areas without 230V. You load it with a roll of wire and you are good to go. Well, you will need a bottle of gas also. With stick, the popular 7018 rod should be stored properly.

There are lots of YouTubes to help get up to speed with any process. You might think about a Multi purpose machine which will cover all your bases.

Insofar as the equipment I'd be welding, it would mostly all be 1/8" or 3/16" thickness. With angle or channel it might be more or less depending on what we're talking about specifically.

I'm looking at the CT520DP or Everlast 160STH or the Forney MP machine but they just price hiked that on amazon...

I've been on YT a lot to learn what little I know now about all this!

I do want to hear people's opinions on the different machines with an emphasis on the greatest value at the lowest price-point.

Most beginner welders want to weld thinner metal. Lots of room for argument on the subject, but most feel stick welding doesn't work well until somewhat over 1/16".
MIG works well even under 1/16"(16 gauge).

TIG is good for a variety of metals & all thicknesses, but TIG is expensive equipment to buy. You can get a cheap TIG good for auto body work, it is pretty limited as to what else it can do. There are about 1000 TIG machines on the market, each with some limitations.

So stick will definitely serve me because of material thickness. I don't have anything under 1/8" I want to weld for now.

[M J D]

That looks like a great welder and very portable and lightweight. From what I read on it, it seems like it's very simple and user friendly while being very capable. It's about $250 more than the CT520DP which is 200 amp and does 50 amp plasma cutting also (although I don't have a compressor and think I'd need one to use that feature). So I'm just looking to weigh out the options and get the greatest value at the least expense.



Any recommendations at the greatest value with the least cost involved?

Space is a premium since with all the strength equipment I have so a smaller welder would make sense and those leads have only become more costly from what I can tell.



Insofar as the equipment I'd be welding, it would mostly all be 1/8" or 3/16" thickness. With angle or channel it might be more or less depending on what we're talking about specifically.

I'm looking at the CT520DP or Everlast 160STH or the Forney MP machine but they just price hiked that on amazon...

I've been on YT a lot to learn what little I know now about all this!

I do want to hear people's opinions on the different machines with an emphasis on the greatest value at the lowest price-point.



So stick will definitely serve me because of material thickness. I don't have anything under 1/8" I want to weld for now.

I would look into the primeweld stick 160 for 199$ or the mig 180 for 499$ before that plasma combo job. The mig 180 also does stick and mig would most likely be better than a half asz plasma would. If down the road you feel you need plasma, a dedicated plasma would be a better unit

[HisWord1ST]

I would look into the primeweld stick 160 for 199$ or the mig 180 for 499$ before that plasma combo job. The mig 180 also does stick and mig would most likely be better than a half asz plasma would. If down the road you feel you need plasma, a dedicated plasma would be a better unit

That Primeweld 160 stick looks good and the price is right. Definitely worth considering.

How important is maximal amperage in DC welding? Seems like at a higher voltage the amperage needed drops.

Is it basically that with a higher amperage rating you can do more from a 110 outlet using a DC welder?

How big a difference is having hot start?

How big a difference is there between lift start TIG and HF TIG? Doesn't matter for me now but may be worth knowing.

I figured the plasma cutting capability would be useful. I've only got DeWalt grinder and Grizzly portaband now for cutting metal.