Dialarc Time; Zero Experience Here!

[HisWord1ST]

I believe it's made in China and Esab doesn't try to hide that fact. I would take Everlasts word about as far as our president select. I'll just leave it at that. I'm not crazy about Chinese products but it's the way it is. I'm sure Esabs build specifications are at a much higher standard than Everlast and even Everlast most likely has a higher standard ( at least in build quality, but probably not in morales ) , than most lower priced importers. As for electrode, whether online or open box private sale, the condition of the flux is the main issue. Of course if I was doing repairs on alloy steel I would start with a sealed container from a reputable source such as McKay, Lincoln or Esab.

When I looked into it online, it seems like only one of their higher end models is in fact assembled in China, but I'm not sure.

I was just speaking to what someone posted in the Everlast forum, not that it makes too much of a difference necessarily...

I've got someone who may be willing to ship me a Esab 180 they've used once, that's got the box and looks brand new, for $600+ shipping without having negotiated at all yet...but then there's no 3 year warranty.

[M J D]

When I looked into it online, it seems like only one of their higher end models is in fact assembled in China, but I'm not sure.

I was just speaking to what someone posted in the Everlast forum, not that it makes too much of a difference necessarily...

I've got someone who may be willing to ship me a Esab 180 they've used once, that's got the box and looks brand new, for $600+ shipping without having negotiated at all yet...but then there's no 3 year warranty.

That's not too bad a price. If you could get it for less than 600$ shipped it's probably ok to chance the warranty. I'm sure Esabs support would still help to some extent.

[HisWord1ST]

That's not too bad a price. If you could get it for less than 600$ shipped it's probably ok to chance the warranty. I'm sure Esabs support would still help to some extent.

So there is also someone locally with a used Everlast power Arc 200sti. It has the adjustable hot start and Arc Force settings and with an emphasis on using 6010 seems it would be a good choice for fabricating fitness equipment where weld strength is important.

That welder retails for $400. I can get this one for $275. Does that seem like a reasonable price if it's in great shape given the fact that the 5-year warranty would not apply?

[M J D]

So there is also someone locally with a used Everlast power Arc 200sti. It has the adjustable hot start and Arc Force settings and with an emphasis on using 6010 seems it would be a good choice for fabricating fitness equipment where weld strength is important.

That welder retails for $400. I can get this one for $275. Does that seem like a reasonable price if it's in great shape given the fact that the 5-year warranty would not apply?

On the Everlast to me the warranty is irrelevant since from what I've seen it's a joke. Myself I would buy the Esab but it is considerably more. With that being said it is a stick welder that there really isn't a lot to go wrong. If it's fairly close by and you can try it out, it's probably worth it. On a lot of the cheaper machines, my previous esab 161 included have really chintzy leads, ground clamp and stinger. On my 180 I changed the leads to 17' on the stinger and 13' on the ground since I had a 30' roll of #2 superflex cable which I greatly prefer. I also changed the ground clamp to a brass one. Most people would be fine with the included ones but I have always used a similar setup on my welders

[M J D]

So there is also someone locally with a used Everlast power Arc 200sti. It has the adjustable hot start and Arc Force settings and with an emphasis on using 6010 seems it would be a good choice for fabricating fitness equipment where weld strength is important.

That welder retails for $400. I can get this one for $275. Does that seem like a reasonable price if it's in great shape given the fact that the 5-year warranty would not apply?

On the Everlast to me the warranty is irrelevant since from what I've seen it's a joke. Myself I would buy the Esab but it is considerably more. With that being said it is a stick welder that there really isn't a lot to go wrong. If it's fairly close by and you can try it out, it's probably worth it. On a lot of the cheaper machines, my previous esab 161 included have really chintzy leads, ground clamp and stinger. On my 180 I changed the leads to 17' on the stinger and 13' on the ground since I had a 30' roll of #2 superflex cable which I greatly prefer. I also changed the ground clamp to a brass one. Most people would be fine with the included ones but I have always used a similar setup on my welders.

[tapwelder]

I would probably go for it at 275 or less. If used and still working it is probably ok. I have issue with DOA unit or shortly lived. Good warranties dont impress me because they usually consume my time and income potential.

[Sparkie1957]

I want to add my 2 cents. There are all kinds of welder manufacturers and importers now. Some great, some not so good. The final decision belongs to the purchaser. For strictly hobby use I’m sure most will be fine. If I was serious or making income with the welder I would personally stick with a major brand. Lincoln, Miller, ESAB, Hobart, Fronius, Kempi. Just my opinion, no more or less


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[HisWord1ST]

On the Everlast to me the warranty is irrelevant since from what I've seen it's a joke. Myself I would buy the Esab but it is considerably more. With that being said it is a stick welder that there really isn't a lot to go wrong. If it's fairly close by and you can try it out, it's probably worth it. On a lot of the cheaper machines, my previous esab 161 included have really chintzy leads, ground clamp and stinger. On my 180 I changed the leads to 17' on the stinger and 13' on the ground since I had a 30' roll of #2 superflex cable which I greatly prefer. I also changed the ground clamp to a brass one. Most people would be fine with the included ones but I have always used a similar setup on my welders

Low quality leads impact welding output or simply low quality and therefore worth replacing? What do you prefer about #2 superflex specifically? Just lead length increase or also flexibility (from the name I'm guessing...)?

Warranty not all that relevant; noted.

[HisWord1ST]

I would probably go for it at 275 or less. If used and still working it is probably ok. I have issue with DOA unit or shortly lived. Good warranties dont impress me because they usually consume my time and income potential.

So I'll have to get a hood so I can try it out or see the owner using it to know it works and has no issues.

Was the DOA/shortly lived unit everlast?

Warranty irrelevant x2

[HisWord1ST]

I want to add my 2 cents. There are all kinds of welder manufacturers and importers now. Some great, some not so good. The final decision belongs to the purchaser. For strictly hobby use I’m sure most will be fine. If I was serious or making income with the welder I would personally stick with a major brand. Lincoln, Miller, ESAB, Hobart, Fronius, Kempi. Just my opinion, no more or less

Your opinion about about sticking with a major brand relates to consistent reliability and/or professional reputation of a given manufacturer?

...or is it about the likelihood of these specific manufacturers being willing to do something and provide some tangible benefit if there were any issues with a given unit?

Or both?

[HisWord1ST]

I'll be making my decision soon...any recommendations on inexpensive yet higher quality welding hoods/gloves/etc...?

Seen several places a lot of people prefer TIG gloves for manual dexterity, and auto-darkening hoods...


Thanks guys!

[Sparkie1957]

Your opinion about about sticking with a major brand relates to consistent reliability and/or professional reputation of a given manufacturer?

...or is it about the likelihood of these specific manufacturers being willing to do something and provide some tangible benefit if there were any issues with a given unit?

Or both?

I would say both and a third consideration will be potential resale if that is or could be a potential concern


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[M J D]

Low quality leads impact welding output or simply low quality and therefore worth replacing? What do you prefer about #2 superflex specifically? Just lead length increase or also flexibility (from the name I'm guessing...)?

Warranty not all that relevant; noted.

Lower quality is often smaller gauge and not as flexible. Main reason I changed them is they are too short when you're working on a ladder. The extra flexibility of the superflex makes them easier to wind up and it's what Ive always used on whip leads for other machines. The larger gauge helps with heat and may or may not give better results depending on amperage and length. I've welded for a long time and generally stick with what works for me.

[HisWord1ST]

I would say both and a third consideration will be potential resale if that is or could be a potential concern

That is definitely a concern. I constantly upgrade strength equipment and have made money at nearly every turn when it comes to resale of all things...

Moving here I've come to a fork in the road and am hopeful I can develop some skills in this arena and supplement income in some useful and meaningful way.

Lower quality is often smaller gauge and not as flexible. Main reason I changed them is they are too short when you're working on a ladder. The extra flexibility of the superflex makes them easier to wind up and it's what Ive always used on whip leads for other machines. The larger gauge helps with heat and may or may not give better results depending on amperage and length. I've welded for a long time and generally stick with what works for me.

Hopefully those leads are less costly than are the dialarc leads I was considering buying. I wonder if it'd be possible to just buy another welder with better leads and then just keep the best welder and set of leads and sell off the other set?

And of course that's sound thinking. If it provides greater utility, capability, range and makes the work safer in ways also, it just works well and stick with it.

[M J D]

That is definitely a concern. I constantly upgrade strength equipment and have made money at nearly every turn when it comes to resale of all things...

Moving here I've come to a fork in the road and am hopeful I can develop some skills in this arena and supplement income in some useful and meaningful way.



Hopefully those leads are less costly than are the dialarc leads I was considering buying. I wonder if it'd be possible to just buy another welder with better leads and then just keep the best welder and set of leads and sell off the other set?

And of course that's sound thinking. If it provides greater utility, capability, range and makes the work safer in ways also, it just works well and stick with it.

I bought that 30' coil of lead before the price hikes that started coincidentally after the election. I think I paid 50$ or less. The ground clamp I had and is similar to the harbor freight replacement ones. On that dialarc you would probably need 50' minimum to utilize that machine without moving it. I would get the machine of your choice and use it before worrying about upgrading anything. Ive found that a 25 or 50' extension cord is all I typically need. I pretty much only run on 220v and use a 10 gauge extension cord.

[KenO]

Since your not going to do aluminum, any DC stick welder will TIG just fine. Building and repairing power plants, refineries, etc, granted I'm old, but we used the same machines for both, and if you got a bad picture, it wasn't the welding machine's fault. We just changed polarity, clipped on the tig torch, and went to work. Some of the new features are nice, but not a necessity.

At the end of my career, mig machines were really coming on. I worked winter work at a shipyard that was using Mig duel shield. With thicker iron, its multipass anyways, even with stick.

Looks like you got the cutting covered with the bandsaw and grinder.
I am partial to a Metabo 6" with a cut off wheel for cutting.
Its really nice to have four grinders: a 6" for cutting, a 4 1/2 for grinding, another 4 1/2 with a wire wheel, and an electric die grinder/(burr grinder). You can get by with less, but changing wheels for grinding, cutting, wire cleaning, takes up time. The die grinder with a bunch of carbide bits (cone, ball, cylinder,etc) will get into places you cant get a grinding wheel. With stick welding, after chipping the slag, a quick pass with the wire wheel, really cleans the weld up.

[HisWord1ST]

I bought that 30' coil of lead before the price hikes that started coincidentally after the election. I think I paid 50$ or less. The ground clamp I had and is similar to the harbor freight replacement ones. On that dialarc you would probably need 50' minimum to utilize that machine without moving it. I would get the machine of your choice and use it before worrying about upgrading anything. Ive found that a 25 or 50' extension cord is all I typically need. I pretty much only run on 220v and use a 10 gauge extension cord.

Good to know on what extension cord I'd need for the 220v setting. I'd have to change out the plug in my garage to accommodate 220v though, isn't that correct? Not sure if you saw the outlet image I posted earlier on in the thread...


What pricing do the used Lincoln buzzboxes usually sell for relatively quickly at?

Here's one with what look to me like longer leads (stated at 50-75' long) that may be good to swap for the shorter ones that come with whatever I go with...and then I could try one of those welders also to see the differences?

Not sure if that ground clamp is also brass or not or what those go for...if that may be another higher value item?

What do you think this is worth as shown, with the welder, leads, dolly?

[HisWord1ST]

Since your not going to do aluminum, any DC stick welder will TIG just fine. Building and repairing power plants, refineries, etc, granted I'm old, but we used the same machines for both, and if you got a bad picture, it wasn't the welding machine's fault. We just changed polarity, clipped on the tig torch, and went to work. Some of the new features are nice, but not a necessity.

At the end of my career, mig machines were really coming on. I worked winter work at a shipyard that was using Mig duel shield. With thicker iron, its multipass anyways, even with stick.

Looks like you got the cutting covered with the bandsaw and grinder.
I am partial to a Metabo 6" with a cut off wheel for cutting.
Its really nice to have four grinders: a 6" for cutting, a 4 1/2 for grinding, another 4 1/2 with a wire wheel, and an electric die grinder/(burr grinder). You can get by with less, but changing wheels for grinding, cutting, wire cleaning, takes up time. The die grinder with a bunch of carbide bits (cone, ball, cylinder,etc) will get into places you cant get a grinding wheel. With stick welding, after chipping the slag, a quick pass with the wire wheel, really cleans the weld up.

What do you mean if you got a bad picture? If the weld didn't look great after using stick, you'd then move to using TIG to make it look nicer - is this what you're saying?

Seems like most people advocate stick for learning how welding works and developing skill and then moving to MIG for faster working...

I've actually also got a 12" dewalt compound miter saw and a baldor bench grinder. I could get a metal blade for the miter saw I realize...the bandsaw doesn't cut absolutely square even when mounted on it's stand, so I'd rather use something better if I'll be cutting a lot of material up to make different projects.

Lots of grinders makes a lot of sense. I've used them some but can see how much prep goes into projects, especially when not using stick with the electrodes that can work with some rust and whatnot.

Is it almost inevitable that almost all people working with stick will ultimately come to favor MIG or TIG and then abandon stick to a large degree?

[Sberry]

The price of a 160 inverter is so cheap that its disposable really. Is that worth the fuss over resale? Not sure why i would want to sell one.

[M J D]

Good to know on what extension cord I'd need for the 220v setting. I'd have to change out the plug in my garage to accommodate 220v though, isn't that correct? Not sure if you saw the outlet image I posted earlier on in the thread...


What pricing do the used Lincoln buzzboxes usually sell for relatively quickly at?

Here's one with what look to me like longer leads (stated at 50-75' long) that may be good to swap for the shorter ones that come with whatever I go with...and then I could try one of those welders also to see the differences?

Not sure if that ground clamp is also brass or not or what those go for...if that may be another higher value item?

What do you think this is worth as shown, with the welder, leads, dolly?

Personally if that was offered to me , even for free I would probably turn it down. I've never cared for a tap machine like that. After using inverter machines, I won't go back. If budget is your main concern, I get it, offer 200$ for it. I've used plenty of that type of stuff in the past and did good with it at the time. With that being said my ancestors used horses for transportation and farm work, worked well then but not practical now.

[M J D]

What do you mean if you got a bad picture? If the weld didn't look great after using stick, you'd then move to using TIG to make it look nicer - is this what you're saying?

Seems like most people advocate stick for learning how welding works and developing skill and then moving to MIG for faster working...

I've actually also got a 12" dewalt compound miter saw and a baldor bench grinder. I could get a metal blade for the miter saw I realize...the bandsaw doesn't cut absolutely square even when mounted on it's stand, so I'd rather use something better if I'll be cutting a lot of material up to make different projects.

Lots of grinders makes a lot of sense. I've used them some but can see how much prep goes into projects, especially when not using stick with the electrodes that can work with some rust and whatnot.

Is it almost inevitable that almost all people working with stick will ultimately come to favor MIG or TIG and then abandon stick to a large degree?

I still use stick a fair amount. Probably 70-75 percent mig for steel, aluminum and SS. About 20 percent or so stick and a very small amount of Tig. Sometimes with stick it's only a rod or 2 other times it's 50 lbs or more over a few days. When possible I use mig, but if it's rusty crap that's hard to access, stick gets it done.

[Sberry]

The price is comparable to a laptop or even relatively econemy tv and a pair of shoes is wrll north of 100$, we worry about resale and warranty about most of those irems?

[HisWord1ST]

Personally if that was offered to me , even for free I would probably turn it down. I've never cared for a tap machine like that. After using inverter machines, I won't go back. If budget is your main concern, I get it, offer 200$ for it. I've used plenty of that type of stuff in the past and did good with it at the time. With that being said my ancestors used horses for transportation and farm work, worked well then but not practical now.

I was intending to take the leads and use them on a newer inverter machine and then sell the tombstone with the leads that came with the inverter.

I still use stick a fair amount. Probably 70-75 percent mig for steel, aluminum and SS. About 20 percent or so stick and a very small amount of Tig. Sometimes with stick it's only a rod or 2 other times it's 50 lbs or more over a few days. When possible I use mig, but if it's rusty crap that's hard to access, stick gets it done.

It's too bad I don't know anyone here that welds that I can learn from using some of this stuff before dropping some cash.

[Sberry]

Dont need all that ratty old monster lead for small inverter. I also have 25. Ft dinky stuff for hopping around with mine.
But,, even a new 200 mig with all the fixins is relatively modest purchases these days.
People that buy those keep them a long time.

[M J D]

I wouldn't obsess over the leads too much. For most things the leads will be fine . Get yourself a machine, some 6011 , some 7018 and some scrap material and burn some rod. Make sure you have a decent hood and screw up until you no longer screw up. All the tutorial in the world won't equal experience. Once you really get to see what going on, how amps effect things and how to make some decent beads, it will be second nature.