Trying to figure out why my weld starts off well but starts spattering at the end. If this is arc blow, why only at the end of the weld and not the beginning? Pic attached.
I believe arc blow usually happens more at one end of the weld than the other. Try moving the work clamp directly to the end of the plate where it is blowing out and see if that helps...or switch to AC.
Trying to figure out why my weld starts off well but starts spattering at the end. If this is arc blow, why only at the end of the weld and not the beginning? Pic attached.
That makes sense. All the heat pouring in to the work piece builds up at the end. I'm assuming what MJD and Louie1961 suggested will remedy this. I'll try it in the morning and report back with some pics.
Very often I run into arc blow. One method to defeat it, is to do the work with two welds. Start them at both ends of the piece, and terminate them in the middle.
welds look stringy, like u holdin too short of arc. the spatter/dingalls balls look like too hot (but beads dont). try a longer arc gap same temp/setting. its ok to dip ur work piece in water bucket every couple rods on practice. i 'd run the backing plate/run off f tabs longer, flatbar cheap in that sense, and u can swap ends on ground due to ur suspicions. i take it u know last 10 - 15 % of good rod length could/often gives u more eratic arc. looks like a restart at ur question point, could be a toated stub of ur cheap stuff , cuz , as i renmeber from previously , u buy cheap rod - horbor freight/tractor suppluy/similar - so its hard to say. cheap rod flakes flux off in chips. and causes arc blow/erradic arc etc. maybe billy boy brewer can skip the next brewers game, and buy a 50lb can of lincoln (real rod) instead
welds look stringy, like u holdin too short of arc. the spatter/dingalls balls look like too hot (but beads dont). try a longer arc gap same temp/setting. its ok to dip ur work piece in water bucket every couple rods on practice. i 'd run the backing plate/run off f tabs longer, flatbar cheap in that sense, and u can swap ends on ground due to ur suspicions. i take it u know last 10 - 15 % of good rod length could/often gives u more eratic arc. looks like a restart at ur question point, could be a toated stub of ur cheap stuff , cuz , as i renmeber from previously , u buy cheap rod - horbor freight/tractor suppluy/similar - so its hard to say. cheap rod flakes flux off in chips. and causes arc blow/erradic arc etc. maybe billy boy brewer can skip the next brewers game, and buy a 50lb can of lincoln (real rod) instead
I lengthened the arc and dialed down the amperage from 150 to 130 and did get better results. I also did the ground cable wrap around trick that seemed to help with the work clamp closer to the piece. These were esab 7018. Pic attached below.
assuming you are using 1/8th 7018, 150 amps is really a LOT. In a horizontal or flat position I am usually running in the 120-125 amp range. In the vertical I might drop back to 110-115.
I wouldn't hold a long arc with 7018, need to keep the rod in the puddle.
+1 I can't think of any time you'd want to long-arc 7018 ... except maybe if you busted all the flux off the end of a stuck rod, and wanted to burn the rod back to the flux covering.
When I was getting arc blow, it was on vertical-up at the end of the bead. Instructor said to move the work clamp to the top of the workpiece, and/or maybe angle the rod upward more as I moved toward the end of the weld.
You can long arc 7018 if you're filling a large gap. I wouldn't recommend it, unless you're really good at what you're doing...........AND I MEAN GOOD. I feel the prerequisite to this practice, is learning how to do the rod the right way. 7018 is a drag rod, and you need to learn how to drag it in any position.
I mentioned this when I was looking at IC Weld's videos. He's doing it right for the situation, but it's hard to do if you don't know what you're doing. The danger is..........folks might think this is the ideal way to run 7018.
When you long arc any rod, you're not getting deposition(which can be a good thing), and you're coming back into a cooler puddle. If your puddle is slag critical, you have to dwell long enough, after you re-enter the puddle, to burn out any impurities. Not a big deal if you know what''s goin' on. But, if you don't, you have crud in the weld.
To make it even more convoluted............................You have to consider what is "whipping".
Moving the rod/arc considerably ahead of the puddle is whipping. But moving the arc to the forward edge of the puddle doesn't qualify as whipping............if you immediately go back into the puddle............doing this, is just a matter of pushing metal back into the puddle. You'd have to look at how the welder is doing it, to understand.
assuming you are using 1/8th 7018, 150 amps is really a LOT. In a horizontal or flat position I am usually running in the 120-125 amp range. In the vertical I might drop back to 110-115.
Yes, it was 1/8. I was trying a technique I saw in a video posted here. The welder was using 190 then dropped to 150 amps for the second pass with 1/8 7018. It felt a bit hot to me as well but it seemed to work well in the vid. As you are saying, 120 always felt right to me as well.
There is a time and place for technique and whip and ****. But this thread isnt it.
I want to see some 12x12 plate coverd with straight dragged beads.
Stack these beads 4 tall on both sides.
Work on arc length bead profile feed rate, holding a straight line.
Start the first bead on the edge of the plate thats your guide to hold straight across the 12" plate
Chip and wire brush between a beads.
Watch weld.com videos before moving to the welding rod.
Watch this video its never harmful to go back to basics.
There is a time and place for technique and whip and ****. But this thread isnt it.
I want to see some 12x12 plate coverd with straight dragged beads.
Stack these beads 4 tall on both sides.
Work on arc length bead profile feed rate, holding a straight line.
Start the first bead on the edge of the plate thats your guide to hold straight across the 12" plate
Chip and wire brush between a beads.
Watch weld.com videos before moving to the welding rod.
Watch this video its never harmful to go back to basics.
Cool Man. I welcome the assignment/challenge. How thick should the plate be and should the beads be spaced or overlap? I've seen this vid several times, won't hurt to watch again though! I'll get to this next weekend or so and post some pics when I'm done.
At the right angle, the 6010 pad is almost like one of those pictures that plays tricks with your eyes. Is it moving or is there a hidden image in it?
If you are talking about the picture I posted, nope, not moving, no hidden images. I did switch directions/hands every other bead. That may add to the optical illusion
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Billy Brewer liked this post
Originally Posted by Billy Brewer
That one gives me a Woody
You nailed it, keep it up.
