I had a Baleigh 4x6 first and I couldn't make the thing cut straight to save my life. I bought it used and it was just too used abused. I then bought a new one from Harbor Freight with a coupon and it cost me a shade over $200. I LOVE IT. It needed some blade guide bearing adjustment right out of the box, and the blade tension needed adjustment, but other than that, it cuts pretty darned straight. You have to use the correct blade for the job (correct teeth per inch) and you have to change blades when it gets dull or it won't cut straight at all. But using the Harbor Freight brand blades I have been really satisfied. YMMV, but for me it has worked out well.

 

Sounds great. Thanks for the reply.

 

I use one and also love it. Make angle jigs for clamping, and get a good blade after you wear out the stock blade.

It's not the fastest (unless doing gang cuts) but it cuts relatively quiet, fast, and clean, and cuts very accurately. All the chips end up in a nice little area ready to be cleaned up.

It's hard to beat a vertical bandsaw for detail metal cutting and fast little adjustments. I use my portaband in a simple stand (handles fit into hooks on the stand), but same idea.

Set it and forget it - you can basically start the cut and walk away.

Used to be a REALLY good deal with the right coupons, but might still be the best deal in town.

 

Yes i was thinking about turning my handheld bandsaw into a vertical bandsaw.

 

It great small band saw.
I have own 3 over 40 years
I have one for small shop today I purchased in 2005.

Dave

 

Thank you.

 

From your other thread, I believe this is a good solution for you. I had a used one I used for 4-5 years and was very satisfied. I sold it for more than I paid when I bought an old Kalamazoo saw.

The factory stand is a little light so I built a heavy duty one. Put a good bimetal blade on it and look up ways to tune and true it. You will be happy that it is quiet and clean. Pick a blade that has 3-4 teeth in the cut based on what you are cutting. I leave a 10-14 blade on mine.

 

Thanks, i agree. I found some YouTube videos on adjusting this saw.

 

From your other thread, I believe this is a good solution for you

It may be a BETTER solution than using a template and any other method of cutting. IMHO you don't want all your roses looking the same. So freehand cutting them on a vertical band saw may add just enough uniqueness to each piece. I would bet you will get pretty fast at cutting these freehand as well. You can cut down sheet steel into appropriate sized squares with a circular saw and a metal cutting blade, then free hand these on the band saw. Maybe even your current hand held band saw converted for vertical use with one of these SWAG off-road portaband tables. https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V10-Portaband-Table-_p_64.html

 

It may be a BETTER solution than using a template and any other method of cutting. IMHO you don't want all your roses looking the same. So freehand cutting them on a vertical band saw may add just enough uniqueness to each piece. I would bet you will get pretty fast at cutting these freehand as well. You can cut down sheet steel into appropriate sized squares with a circular saw and a metal cutting blade, then free hand these on the band saw. Maybe even your current hand held band saw converted for vertical use with one of these SWAG off-road portaband tables. https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V10-Portaband-Table-_p_64.html

I saw that Swag bandsaw stand, i may get it or make my own. I was thinking also about using a bandsaw to cut out those rose blanks but i wasn't sure if it could cut the curves or not.

 

I posted about my HF saw in your other post.
Mine is still cutting well and was definitely worth the money.
If you search, you'll see posts about bandsaw.
This Femi saw is popular because of its mitering head. It's $600.00 but it should be considered.
Many power tools are costly but it's an investment too.
I bought an ELLIS 1600 finally, after debating on it for a couple years. That waiting cost me hundreds and now it's a lot more money.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209


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I posted about my HF saw in your other post.
Mine is still cutting well and was definitely worth the money.
If you search, you'll see posts about bandsaw.
This Femi saw is popular because of its mitering head. It's $600.00 but it should be considered.
Many power tools are costly but it's an investment too.
I bought an ELLIS 1600 finally, after debating on it for a couple years. That waiting cost me hundreds and now it's a lot more money.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209


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Thanks for the heads up, i'll check out your link.

 

Another (but not necessarily practical) option would be keep an eye out for a wood bandsaw, and add speed reduction for metal cutting.

This is the cheap used Jet I picked up years ago....

This photo shows the reduction gearbox I added.

This is a vintage Delta bench mount I inherited from my uncle which is dedicated for cutting aluminum....

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That's what I would do before buying a porta band and the table. I still have my homemade stand with a Milwaukee saw but it's very limited. I picked up a 14" Rockwell band saw and it's night and day compared to the porta band on a stand. Much larger table and cutting depth is the biggest difference. Another huge factor is on the Rockwell, I can lower the upper guide just over the work. Not only is having the kind close, much safer it's also much easier to maintain blade accuracy. Mine is the wood and metal cutting model but doing the low speed conversion is pretty easy to do and not overly expensive. With a new portable band saw and the swag table I'm guessing you would have 450-500$ or so in it. I know I could get a used 14" saw and purchase a new gear reducer and put it together for less than the 500$ and have a much more useful tool. With that being said, it's not a replacement for a good working horizontal band saw .

 

Any vertical handsaw, even a portaband, will cut those curves pretty easily with the correct blade

 

What kind of blade would i use for cutting curves?

 

I had one for years and had very few issues with it. It made 1,000's of cuts. I made a stand for mine because I had to move it around a lot and the stock stand would not take it. Look up some of my post under reebz or reebs. I posted modifications

 

If you’re (re)building an OEM stand consider making it higher as your back will thank you.

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Mine is the 6th post https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/51197-New-4X6-Bandsaw-Frame?highlight=bandsaw

 

Mine is the 6th post https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/51197-New-4X6-Bandsaw-Frame?highlight=bandsaw

Nice. Thanks.

 

The OP stated in another thread he wants to cut 20 gauge sheet steel to make metal roses. I also suggested a jig saw. In a band saw I really do think he'll need the higher tooth count for such thing material

 

20 gauge I would cut with aviation snips as far as tighter curves go. If I wàs using the band saw I would use the 14-18 blade. Beverley type shear would be another option for that material.

 

I use my band saws for wood stuff all the time as well!

In vertical they're great for cutting out those odd shapes or angles, and in horizontal they make great big timber saws (will miter well too!).

A wood blade (6 tpi usually) will help but I never change it over. I just make sure all metal chips/shavings/filings are off the surface for wood that will be seen (or it will embed itself and cause rusting problems down the line).

 

Thanks. Do you play the blues? I like acoustic guitar blues but i dont have much of an ear, i cant even tune a guitar without an electronic tuner but i still like to pluck away on the guitar anyway.

 

This guy has a cool modification for tightening down the miter fence on his HF bandsaw. He has 7 other mod videos in a playlist for modifying and adjusting this bandsaw but so far this is the only one I've watched.
https://youtu.be/kiSDyhz1Vdo?list=PL1-GJ2ZCl5C5Vn0rYTA27O8q6h8mFuTVj


This guy also has HF bandsaw tune up videos. I haven't watched them yet either.
https://youtu.be/SzjqDqpWRCA

 

This is a cool modification for quickly installing a saw table for vertical use without needing to bolt and unbolt the table.

https://youtu.be/yGUw2kuweQk

 

Thanks for posting those videos. I'll probably make a similar table for mine very soon. I've had my saw for a couple of years and use it all the time. If you make sure everything is adjusted well, it will cut straight. I use Morse brand blades in mine. A local store carries them and they are much better than any from HF. For the price, you really can't beat it. I have friends that have built tables for portabands, but I think that going with this saw was better for my work.

 

The 4x6 saw has been around since the 1972 before Harbor Freight.
Harbor freight just change the color.

Dave

 

My 4X6 is so old,,,,,,,,,,, (HOW OLD IS IT!!!!),,, that my saw was manufactured in the USA!!

It is perfect, but, almost never used,, because I have a 9X16 saw, also.

Actually, I carried the 9X16 outside last week, and sprayed it with Walmart Engine Degreaser, then hosed it off.
I bought the 9X16 used in 2001, and that was the last time it had a "bath".
The saw is SO big, that I emptied two cans of WD 40 on it after the water had dried, to protect the areas with no paint.

I bought the 4X6 used, about 1990.

 

Love my 1997 CM. Bought it used off CL and I never realized how much I would use it.