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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
Picking up a thread has almost 100% to do with backlash. If I can get the backlash right, I'm golden.
I think your going to get tolerance stack up and make things worse. Backlash from your machine will have some error and then there's Gross error (human error). Also, instead of making a spanner you could use one of the methods already suggested or I would just use the T-handle to rotate the chuck by hand if I was doing it your way.
However:
I would clean the threads up with a toothbrush and chuck running clockwise then use a 60* thread file to chase the threads with lathe running or manually. The starting threads could be dressed up with the thread file and turning chuck by hand. Do it however you like tho because your going to anyway.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
12V71
That means the metal is still there. You need a rethreading die that "rolls" the threads back into place.
Thats what I think also and if he is worried about starting straight use the face of the tailstock quill to hold the rethreading die straight. Once the metal is removed by an attempt to pickup the threads with a single point tool and rethread it is gone for good.
Last edited by lars66; 09-28-2021 at 01:07 PM.
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Re: Pin Spanner
i'd go with the turn it down to next available size it cleans up to idea.
it seems to be the simplest. but are we sure on the hardening?
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Re: Pin Spanner
What about grinding off the hard threads and build it back up with weld then cut new threads on the end? I wouldn't take all the threads off, just what's needed.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Cut a die nut in half. Tack it together while positioned over good threads. Wind it out. Job done.
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Re: Pin Spanner
It’s situations like this that make me want a lathe yet afraid to have one. You watch some of the guys on YouTube or see some of the stuff zap and others posted it looks so easy until it goes sideways and the lathe spits your stuff at you
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If it dont fit get a bigger hammer
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Re: Pin Spanner
Looking at the picture , the threads don't look that bad. Why not just use a thread file to get the starting thread cleaned up ,them use the repair die to finish. I've had to a thread file on bearing retaining nut shafts that were worse than that with good results. It took awhile, but there was no choice . We didn't have the correct re-thread dies. Maybe I'm missing something here .
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Re: Pin Spanner
Quickie update
I was about to finish up the spanner. It only needs 2 welds.
I attached the pin to the plate, then threw it against the side of the container. I was that damn disgusted. All I could see under the hood was a massive blast of blurry light. The weld was entirely muscle memory.
I had to join 2 pieces of scrap plate to have enough material for an 8" arc(this was done much earlier in the day). I used 7018, and welded it up in full sunlight. It turned out nicely. It was actually my first audition of Atom Arc regular 7018. I like it a bunch! Very snappy arc that bites into the metal better than other rods.
The weld that went down the crapper was done in the shade in the late afternoon. And it was done with flux core. I'm thinking that I can only weld in bright light anymore. I do know that I lose all depth perception at dusk, and can't look out a window towards bright sunshine from inside a relatively dark house these days without it looking like I'm trying to see in a fog. Must be something to do with the eyes trying to adjust to wide differences in light. Same with welding in reduced light. The cataracts seem to completely mess up any contrast in what you're seeing..................not a good thing when welding. December can't come soon enough.
Anyways................it seems that I have to reschedule chores to make time for welding during the early to mid-day hours. PITA.
See if I'm right tomorrow. I'm hoping this works till the eye surgery. I can't be throwing 1500# of pipe against any container walls
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Re: Pin Spanner
I hadn't picked up on the fact that you're trying to single-point thread chase an existing thread. What a horribly complicated way to do things, and super easy to get wrong.
Originally Posted by
bfjou812
Looking at the picture , the threads don't look that bad. Why not just use a thread file to get the starting thread cleaned up ,them use the repair die to finish. I've had to a thread file on bearing retaining nut shafts that were worse than that with good results. It took awhile, but there was no choice . We didn't have the correct re-thread dies. Maybe I'm missing something here .
This is 100% what we would do where i work. easy to save enough of the thread, the peaks will be gone but the strength is still there. A thread file is sometimes your absolute best friend. EVERYONE should have one. (Or two, if you need metric and imperial)
Sam I admire your efforts but sometimes you come up with complicated solutions to simple jobs. This is one of them!
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Re: Pin Spanner
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Re: Pin Spanner
I did that prior to my cataract surgery (both eyes). BRIGHT light and as close as you can get it to your work.... and set my auto helmet to 9 or 9 1/2 so I could see where the h*ll I was going! After the surgery, my vision was nearly 20/20, but I liked the light so much that I still use it when I can.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
Quickie update
I was about to finish up the spanner. It only needs 2 welds.
I attached the pin to the plate, then threw it against the side of the container. I was that damn disgusted. All I could see under the hood was a massive blast of blurry light. The weld was entirely muscle memory.
I had to join 2 pieces of scrap plate to have enough material for an 8" arc(this was done much earlier in the day). I used 7018,
and welded it up in full sunlight. It turned out nicely. It was actually my first audition of Atom Arc regular 7018. I like it a bunch! Very snappy arc that bites into the metal better than other rods.
The weld that went down the crapper
was done in the shade in the late afternoon. And it was done with flux core. I'm thinking that I can only weld in bright light anymore. I do know that I lose all depth perception at dusk, and can't look out a window towards bright sunshine from inside a relatively dark house these days without it looking like I'm trying to see in a fog. Must be something to do with the eyes trying to adjust to wide differences in light. Same with welding in reduced light. The cataracts seem to completely mess up any contrast in what you're seeing..................not a good thing when welding. December can't come soon enough.
Anyways................it seems that I have to reschedule chores to make time for welding during the early to mid-day hours. PITA.
See if I'm right tomorrow. I'm hoping this works till the eye surgery. I can't be throwing 1500# of pipe against any container walls
The cataracts are acting as a diffuser, like looking through a pebbled glass shower door. It was the same for me at the end, my eye surgeon sped up the process and got me in "right now" when he realized how fast they were growing at the end. He has never seen them come on so fast, my left eye went legally blind in a matter of 4 weeks when he said "NOW".
At least I've had every blood test known to man while he tried to figure out how they grew that fast at the end. This guy is not dumb either, he has pioneered the newest procedures for cataract repair. I was using my new vision in 4 hours. It's still going to take a good 4 weeks for the starburst effect from bright lights to go away, so give yourself awhile to readjust before you complain about being able to see again.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
Woznme
Cut a die nut in half. Tack it together while positioned over good threads. Wind it out. Job done.
Wouldn't even have to be a die.... just a brand new nut with good threads, hold it together with vice grips (maybe a hose clamp) and do it a half dozen times... A little WD-40 and give her...
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Re: Pin Spanner
I spent about an hour, an Hour, trying to run flux core. I literally can't see it anymore, especially when doing a butt joint.
I threw in the towel, and went back to my standby...............
Literally the only half azzed decent weld on the whole thing Anything done with flux core was a disaster. The stick arc is a different type of light that doesn't wipe out my entire field of vision like the flux core is doing.
Sad thing is..............I sorta used to like running flux core A good power source, and a good feeder, would give some nice results. It never was my go-to, but I would use it occasionally. Ah well.................come December.....STAND BACK!!
Anyways............it's done.
Now I'm ready to wreck my remaining threads
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Re: Pin Spanner
This thing hasn't been made any easier by the recent loss in the "family". My faithful 6" satin chrome ruler has gone missing. K'kins can't even find it
I'll be 66 in a few months. I don't buy clothes, cars, or anything fancy for myself.
I'm seriously considering buying one of these to replace the lost one. Titanium Nitride coated
$24 is a small price to pay for a piece of art. And something that has about the best visibility I've ever seen. They had me at "Titanium"
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
whtbaron
Wouldn't even have to be a die.... just a brand new nut with good threads, hold it together with vice grips (maybe a hose clamp) and do it a half dozen times... A little WD-40 and give her...
I still think the split nut idea would give you the best odds of success without boogering the remaining threads. If the start is broomed up a bit, just file a couple thousands off the end on a bevel with the hand file. If the split nut is inside a box wrench or deep socket, a wrap of electrical tape should hold it together. All you would need is another new nut, and you know where to get them.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
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Les
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
whtbaron
I still think the split nut idea would give you the best odds of success without boogering the remaining threads. If the start is broomed up a bit, just file a couple thousands off the end on a bevel with the hand file. If the split nut is inside a box wrench or deep socket, a wrap of electrical tape should hold it together. All you would need is another new nut, and you know where to get them.
Quit muddying the waters with practical solutions that don't involve reinventing the wheel and working to ten-thousandths on forty-year-old farm machinery. It's vitally important to spend a week overthinking rotary mower repair in October when the tractor you need to run it isn't operational and you're also overthinking building a gantry crane to not repair it as well.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Found several for sale lately! Here is one that would be big enough - probably has 3 tons hanging on it now - might sell CHEAP!
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
Oxford1
Quit muddying the waters with practical solutions that don't involve reinventing the wheel and working to ten-thousandths on forty-year-old farm machinery. It's vitally important to spend a week overthinking rotary mower repair in October when the tractor you need to run it isn't operational and you're also overthinking building a gantry crane to not repair it as well.
Logic and simple ideas are no fun
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Miller AEAD200LE
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
This thing hasn't been made any easier by the recent loss in the "family". My faithful 6" satin chrome ruler has gone missing. K'kins can't even find it
I'll be 66 in a few months. I don't buy clothes, cars, or anything fancy for myself.
I'm seriously considering buying one of these to replace the lost one.
Titanium Nitride coated
$24 is a small price to pay for a piece of art. And something that has about the best visibility I've ever seen. They had me at "Titanium"
Sammm you can get seconds or used from the WWW.YARDSTORE.COM . They even have 12" rigid and flex in different finishes including black. For $24 you can probly get 3 or 4 of them. I use a 6" on my cross slide for ZERO backlash in measurements. Its kind of a MIL spec trick from the trade. Good luck with your threads. Do you know how to use the thread dial on even threads verses od number threads tho? Do you have a thread dial? I suggest practice on PVC. Idea I learned from member forhire.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
Insaneride
Sammm you can get seconds or used from the
WWW.YARDSTORE.COM . They even have 12" rigid and flex in different finishes including black. For $24 you can probly get 3 or 4 of them. I use a 6" on my cross slide for ZERO backlash in measurements. Its kind of a MIL spec trick from the trade. Good luck with your threads. Do you know how to use the thread dial on even threads verses od number threads tho? Do you have a thread dial? I suggest practice on PVC. Idea I learned from member forhire.
Regarding threading dial, and all the other crap that I gots............ Yes I have, yes I do
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Re: Pin Spanner
And it all fit when I put
it together
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Re: Pin Spanner
The last pic in the above post is a very good lesson for those who aren't familiar with this kind of crap.
IF YOU HAVE A BEARING SURFACE, MAKE SURE TO PLACE YOUR WORK LEAD SO'S IT DOESN'T CAUSE AN ARC BETWEEN MOVING PARTS.
The "ground" is on the rear plate. This is so the current doesn't flow through the shaft that touches the moving roller, and possibly arc between shaft, and roller. This is some important stuff.
DC is directional. It flows from point to point. Always think about that when you put your "ground" clamp on. Yeah, sure, you can have some stray voltage (this is how you ruin your car computer), but as far as welding goes...............the current will flow from clamp to electrode via the shortest path.
Last edited by farmersammm; 09-30-2021 at 04:54 PM.
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Re: Pin Spanner
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
the last pic in the above post is a very good lesson for those who aren't familiar with this kind of crap.
If you have a bearing surface, make sure to place your work lead so's it doesn't cause an arc between moving parts.
The "ground" is on the rear plate. This is so the current doesn't flow through the shaft that touches the moving roller, and possibly arc between shaft, and roller. This is some important stuff.
Dc is directional. It flows from point to point. Always think about that when you put your "ground" clamp on. Yeah, sure, you can have some stray voltage (this is how you ruin your car computer), but as far as welding goes...............the current will flow from clamp to electrode via the shortest path.
ten4.
Edit sammm. You didn't show thread dial tho. .?
Last edited by Insaneride; 09-30-2021 at 08:33 PM.