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Thread: Pin Spanner

  1. #51
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by Insaneride View Post
    ten4.
    I was being kind of a smartazz about the threading thing, you really took it well. I owe you oneName:  tkqe4fh-smiley-two-thumbs-up175028_285604.gif
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  2. #52
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Sammm, you prolly have a triangle file or two 60*
    Use them to dress threads. Also, face or shave the starting threads a couple thousands to clean up up starting threads. That's what I would do.

    The pic is two triangle files I use to dress threads. On the right is four sided file for comparison.

    Your threads look 60* ?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #53
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by cwby View Post
    Found several for sale lately! Here is one that would be big enough - probably has 3 tons hanging on it now - might sell CHEAP!
    Attachment 1731707
    Final results
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  5. #54
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Ouch.... barely scrap price.... wish that had been closer to me...
    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
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  7. #55
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Name:  spanner12.jpg
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Size:  167.1 KB Went to the big town, and got some round stock. Ready for the next step I guess. It's larger diameter than I needed, but it was all they had in their drop rack. Get after it tomorrow.

  8. #56
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    The Moment Ya Discover
    Ya Just Got
    Fafaffnicked

    I just need to turn down the end a bit, then cut it off where it needs to be. Instead of cutting off a piece that's long enough to grab in the chuck, then turn it down, then have to discard the material that was needed for the chuck to grab it. I don't believe that's asking too much

    Name:  spanner13.jpg
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    But no.................................Some lil' pointy headed dood/doodette, 10,000 miles away, had a bad day(or maybe a normal one), and machined the casting off center

    Name:  spanner14.jpg
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    Name:  spanner15.jpg
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Size:  231.6 KB They ground the ways off center just enough where my stock won't fit the stupid thing when it's adjusted all the way open An eighth of an inch towards me, and I'd be groovin' right now. Even an epic finoogie won't solve the problem.

    So now, it's off to the bandsaw to cut off a plug o' material, half of which will be tossed in the scrap bucket

    If I didn't really sort of enjoy it, I'd be banging my head against the wall.

  9. #57
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Well that's certainly less than ideal. Is there any reason you couldn't shorten the lower point closest to the operator side of the lathe? The extra length it has from being off center is of no significance now.

  10. #58
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    You can totally do outer diameter turning on that length of piece without the steady. Enough of it to get it to fit into the steady, anyhow.

    But otherwise, think of the piece you are scrapping as a nice future press tool. My lathe scraps go into a toolbox next to the press. Always need the right size piece for pressing in or out something.

  11. #59
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Well, I went ahead and lopped off a piece to fit in the lathe. I've had one very bad experience trying to turn overlength pieces. I don't even attempt it anymore. The bar climbed over the tool.

    I gotta say..................I think the aluminum is fairly easy to machine..........but it tends to clog stuff up. The drill bit had to be continually removed from the bore to clean the chips out of the flutes. They simply didn't flow well as the hole got deeper. That doesn't tend to happen with steel. I've never had a tapered arbor try to spin on this machine.............except with this aluminum stuff.......that worried me. It's never good when a Morse taper moves.

    Name:  spanner16.jpg
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Size:  228.6 KB Quite a bit of chatter until the tool got deeper into the bore. Then it smoothed out. Probably my fault for relying on the factory sharpening grind. I didn't sharpen the bit before use. Usually I sharpen new bits because I've found that the Chinese(and even some American) bits aren't sharpened right from the factory. The chips have such a hard time flowing through the flutes that they took the black oxide coating off. I wonder if the alloys are abrasive. I believe this stuff has silica and other stuff in it. I forgot to ask what it was when I picked it up...........I'm assuming it's 6061 T6??????

    I don't use aluminum for anything. This is the first part I've ever even considered making. So far..........I guess I give it an A on facing, and a C on drilling. Find out how it does on boring, turning, and threading tomorrow.

    The nicest stuff I've worked with is 12L14, and Fatigue Proof(1144).

    BTW................this is where I'm going with this...................

    Name:  spanner18.jpg
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Size:  218.1 KB The shaft is threaded at both ends. I have to grip the good thread in the chuck to turn the shaft. The aluminum is to be used to make a threaded collet to hold the thing while it's being worked on. If I was just turning a smooth shaft, I'd use strips of beer can between the jaws and the shaft..........but on threaded stuff, I'm worried that the thread will eat through a bit of thin aluminum. I don't want to damage the good threads, and I don't want to damage the chuck jaws.

    I could put the nut on the shaft, and grip it in the jaws, but because it's hardened I don't want to go that route either. I dunno what the Rockwell is on the chuck jaws, and I don't want to booger 'em up with a hardened nut (a nut will not fit a round chuck jaw without trying to dig into it)

    Alternatively, I could turn between centers, and bypass all contact with the thread...............but the pulling operations to disassemble the gearbox damaged the centers. They're distorted, and would have to be re-drilled...........which means holding the thing in the jaws....back to square one.

    I did a bit of preliminary boring to see how this stuff machines. I WASN'T TOO HAPPY. The stuff builds up on the tool tip.

    Name:  spanner17.jpg
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Size:  207.4 KB To be fair..........I can't remember what I used the boring bar on last time, and whether I damaged the tip at that time. But it does appear that stuff welds itself to the tip. I've read that high rake angles are needed, along with severe clearance angles, to machine aluminum. These inserts are not made for aluminum. Also read that non coated inserts are best.......the coating makes for a rough finish on the insert, which adds to the fouling problems. We'll see I guess. If it's a continuing problem, I can always grind a piece of HSS for the other boring bar. Have to grind a threading tool for that bar anyways.

    I'll turn the insert to bring up a good point tomorrow. It might just be that I did the damage in the past, and a fresh tip will work fine.
    Last edited by farmersammm; 10-03-2021 at 03:06 AM. Reason: added last sentence

  12. #60
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    Well that's certainly less than ideal. Is there any reason you couldn't shorten the lower point closest to the operator side of the lathe? The extra length it has from being off center is of no significance now.
    I guess I'm limited to 2 1/4 max diameter on the steady rest, which is ok. Just have to remember it. This is the first time I've used it for larger diameter stock.

  13. #61
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    The wax type lubricant that comes in a tube works very well when working with aluminum. Walter Coolcut or Lenox Tubelube work very well but can be hard to find. Gulf canning wax works good as well but is harder to apply and get to stay on the cutting tool. I haven't bored a lot of aluminum but I've drilled a lot and to me it seems the harder alloys are easier to work with. All alloys seem to want to chip weld without a lube that stays on the cutting tool .

  14. #62
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    To bore aluminum you will need a non-chipped insert. Set the boring bar height to centerline. Choke up on the tool so there is as little stickout as possible. High RPM and take deep cuts so you are pushing back into the toolpost instead of just bending the bar back.

    If you have a sharp tool (ie fresh insert), it will bore fine.

    I can't tell what insert you have / need. Do you know the insert code? If I have something that fits, I will drop it in the mail to you.

  15. #63
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    For Insaneride


    Name:  spanner27.jpg
Views: 319
Size:  179.5 KB

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  17. #64
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Name:  spanner19.jpg
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Size:  174.0 KB Finished boring, and crudded up another insert with the welded on aluminum. No more using these inserts for aluminum.

    Name:  spanner20.jpg
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Size:  199.2 KB Ground a threading tool, and mounted it on the boring bar. Leveled,, and centered it.

    Name:  spanner21.jpg
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Size:  233.1 KB Flipped the compound around for inside threading. An angle block works nice for setting a precise angle. I go with 30*. All that stuff about 29* is a bit silly. Thirty degrees works fine.

    Name:  spanner22.jpg
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Size:  221.8 KB Center the boring bar on the spindle axis.

    Name:  spanner24.jpg
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Size:  198.1 KB Do a scratch cut to verify everything's set up right.

    Ridiculous amount of setup time for 5 minutes worth of thread cutting

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  19. #65
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Name:  spanner25.jpg
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Size:  206.4 KB

    Name:  spanner26.jpg
Views: 319
Size:  189.3 KB The steel thread on the shaft doesn't like to smoothly engage the aluminum threads. It's an old shaft, and pretty corroded. Even with cleaning, using thinner, and a wire brush, it was still a PITA to correctly fit the threads. And, this aluminum stuff is gummy as all getout. I notice the same when working on my trucks.............the interface between steel, and aluminum, threads is very sketchy.

    Anyways................have to get a good low TPI bandsaw blade to cut this thing. The blade I use for steel didn't cut it for crap. Took about 3 months to cut the material

    All that's left is to turn down the OD, cut it off the stub, and slot it.

    I don't plan on doing anymore machining with my good steel inserts. The turning will be done with HSS bits. Hate to ruin more inserts..........they're a bit spendy.

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  21. #66
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Antiseize fixed that.

  22. #67
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by Woznme View Post
    Antiseize fixed that.
    Yeah, that's what I've done on all the bolts I've pulled from the Fords. At least I know they'll run easy next time I have to remove them. It's removing the factory installed bolts that sucks.

  23. #68
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Trip to Tulsa today to pick up the blade for cutting this Loominum stuff. Bimetal 10/14 variable pitch.

    They took their pound of flesh by golly.............................

    Way oil
    Saw blade
    Hydraulic pressure gauge(F150 has dropped about 50% oil pressure, have to see whether it's internal, or the sender)
    Stainless steel 6" ruler
    About 6-7 HSS tool stock blanks

    $106

    Add the fuel, turnpike toll, and Arby's......................it gets to be one heck of an expensive day

  24. #69
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Meh.... I've dropped that in a bar in one night. At least you won't be as dry as I was tomorrow...
    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
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    230 amp Sears AC Stick
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    Cut 50 Plasma
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  26. #70
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersammm View Post
    Trip to Tulsa today to pick up the blade for cutting this Loominum stuff. Bimetal 10/14 variable pitch.

    They took their pound of flesh by golly.............................

    Way oil
    Saw blade
    Hydraulic pressure gauge(F150 has dropped about 50% oil pressure, have to see whether it's internal, or the sender)
    Stainless steel 6" ruler
    About 6-7 HSS tool stock blanks

    $106

    Add the fuel, turnpike toll, and Arby's......................it gets to be one heck of an expensive day
    $350 for a new shaft looks pretty reasonable.

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  28. #71
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by Oxford1 View Post
    $350 for a new shaft looks pretty reasonable.
    If that was in Cdn. funds, it's actually not bad compared to other parts I've picked up this year.... but yea, I'd be trying to save it too...
    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
    Les

  29. #72
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by Oxford1 View Post
    $350 for a new shaft looks pretty reasonable.
    It's not that bad The only item on the list that applies to the shaft is the saw blade ($30ish). And the aluminum round stock came to $30 on the nose. I only used about 3" of the round.

    So, I'm not over the cliff just yet

  30. #73
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Name:  IMG_6874.JPG
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    John Deere wants $700 for a pair of these brake bands. Can't build them on your lathe. I'm hoping the ones off my $300 parts machine will last long enough I won't have to buy any.
    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
    Les

  31. #74
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Name:  spanner28.jpg
Views: 154
Size:  192.0 KB Turned the OD down to give myself a 1/8" wall. This was sort of a guessing game. I'm not familiar with aluminum, and don't know its strength, or how it tends to bend.

    Name:  spanner32.jpg
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Size:  203.7 KB Removed from the nub, and slotted, so it'll grab whatever its screwed onto.

    Name:  spanner30.jpg
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Size:  245.8 KB Works tolerably well in the 3 jaw, it doesn't rotate on the thread, but I didn't want to tighten it to the extreme. The force is not well spaced. Besides............this was made for use in the 4 jaw.

    Name:  spanner31.jpg
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    Name:  spanner29.jpg
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Size:  179.7 KB Works very well on the 4 jaw. Just a little bit of tension on the jaws locks it up like a vise. You might note that the collet was cut to a length that fits the 4 jaw, not the 3 jaw.

    Do the attempted thread repair on the shaft sometime this evening when I get time.

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  33. #75
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    Re: Pin Spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    Name:  IMG_6874.JPG
Views: 176
Size:  229.4 KB

    John Deere wants $700 for a pair of these brake bands. Can't build them on your lathe. I'm hoping the ones off my $300 parts machine will last long enough I won't have to buy any.
    My 1960's vintage Dodge trucks had external bands on the parking brake drum at the rear of the transmission. This material, similar if not identical, is still available.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/brake-lining/

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/28430008603...827517d75e43be This guy also carries rivets, and the tools necessary to do the job I guess.

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