I Might of Really Stepped In It.

[idacal]

Im not sure im following this, there is crap built all over the us with j55 pipe isn't that the bottom of the line 2 7/8 oil field tubing? as for a53 a or b that's what i use for casing and it is quite soft, got some american schedule #40 (yah yah. made, melted, and milled usa) for a usda project. absolute ****, bevels are not square, pipe not round but I did pay a 12.00 per foot premium. give me korean or Taiwanese casing any day. thats my hobby horse though. I think the a53 means is its been pressure tested.

[12V71]

Im not sure im following this, there is crap built all over the us with j55 pipe isn't that the bottom of the line 2 7/8 oil field tubing? as for a53 a or b that's what i use for casing and it is quite soft, got some american schedule #40 (yah yah. made, melted, and milled usa) for a usda project. absolute ****, bevels are not square, pipe not round but I did pay a 12.00 per foot premium. give me korean or Taiwanese casing any day. thats my hobby horse though. I think the a53 means is its been pressure tested.

A-53 is actually the steel grade, part of the print stripe will normally give a pressure test PSI. I hear you on the out of round, out of square stuff it really sucks to have to square 980 feet of 18" stuff up for 2 days before you send it down the hole.

[idacal]

having to true it 980’ ugg usually 6” size i can just weld the gap but rarely have it for foreign material. do you use a track torch for that? Do the drillers over there not do their own welding?
But that 51/2 tubing for that price i would be all over that. would find a way to use it.

[12V71]

having to true it 980’ ugg usually 6” size i can just weld the gap but rarely have it for foreign material. do you use a track torch for that? Do the drillers over there not do their own welding?
But that 51/2 tubing for that price i would be all over that. would find a way to use it.

There was 2 guys up here that hired cheap crews that could throw a Petol wrench but that was about it. They would call me when they were ready to go. As far as squaring the stuff I had a modified flange square for checking ends, most of the time a touch with a grinder would do the job or just rotating the casing and checking with a good level.

[farmersammm]

LWS gave me a quote today on 5" A500 square tubing, 3/16 wall.......................$20.42/foot on full sticks. But, their quote on 5 & 6" pipe was high.

They can't match the price on the new pipe from Port of Catoosa, and I'm thinking they might be sourcing the square tubing, and pipe, from the same outfit, then adding a markup..........which is fair. A note of interest here: Used to be, you couldn't buy direct from the Port. I'm thinking that the high prices have everybody scrambling to sell to anybody. Sales have dropped off a cliff.

There's 2 ways to go about this......................... If I can direct source from the Port at a substantial saving, I'll grab it. If the price is only a buck or two different per foot, I'll go through the LWS. I get breaks from the LWS on a lot of stuff, so I prefer to buy from them when possible.

Case on point............... They found me some used 8" S beam for $350. Forty feet of it(2 twenty foot sticks). One price. The man has cancer, and wants to sell all his stuff. It helps him, helps me, and the LWS was decent enough to pass the info along, and make sure I get the material at the price. LWS guy is gonna inspect the beam this weekend to make sure it's straight, and useable. I have no problem with used beams if they're straight, and not sitting in the dirt for long periods.

All things being equal, price wise................I'll take square tubing over pipe any day. It's more rigid. More strength per pound when it comes to resisting lateral force.

I don't know how steel is sold in other parts of the country, but here it's generally sold by the pound. One price for hot rolled structural shapes, and a different price for HSS. Hot rolled open shapes are considerably cheaper than HSS. Right now, I can get 6" channel for $238 per 40'. We discussed this when kicking around the idea of built up columns............and I hope I remember the quote correctly. Either way, the quote will be on the LWS computer, so we can retrieve it if need be.

[farmersammm]

$13.75/ft
8 5/8, .280 wall
New Mill Reject

According to the sales dood, this is the stuff they make their hay trailers out of.

The pipe felt irregular where the seams were. Otherwise it seemed ok I guess. I question the bands............seems to me that's a testing procedure designation. 40' lengths, one end plain, one end beveled. This indicates it was meant to be welded. That's a very good sign.

[ghost_walker]

the trailer in the first pic looks interesting. the one with the dual arches on it

wonder if it could be used with a chain fall to pick up and move what you need it too.

[12V71]

[CENTER][B][SIZE=5]$13.75/ft
8 5/8, .280 wall
New Mill Reject


According to the sales dood, this is the stuff they make their hay trailers out of.

The pipe felt irregular where the seams were. Otherwise it seemed ok I guess. I question the bands............seems to me that's a testing procedure designation. 40' lengths, one end plain, one end beveled. This indicates it was meant to be welded. That's a very good sign.

Beveled on one end and plain on the other? That's well casing... the bevel end is set down on the plain end vertically for a nice hot horizontal weld. But most casing I have welded is A-5xx stuff. And irregular seams? welcome to the world of pipe. I've worked with 24" that had a 3" wide flat where the seam was. I've worked with 42" spiral seam stuff that was a full 1-1/2" out of round from the mill and was certified for high pressure gas line. Ain't nothing ever perfect in the world of pipe. You just learn to deal with it.

[M J D]

Beveled on one end and plain on the other? That's well casing... the bevel end is set down on the plain end vertically for a nice hot horizontal weld. But most casing I have welded is A-5xx stuff. And irregular seams? welcome to the world of pipe. I've worked with 24" that had a 3" wide flat where the seam was. I've worked with 42" spiral seam stuff that was a full 1-1/2" out of round from the mill and was certified for high pressure gas line. Ain't nothing ever perfect in the world of pipe. You just learn to deal with it.

That's what porta powers are for. It's not uncommon especially the large stuff to be majorly out of round. I'm guessing the dudes who load and unload the stuff figure dropping it and banging it around is their version of " testing".

[idacal]

Not sure what your building, thats a nice price on 8” are you building the Uranus fortified bunker? There is a local shop that has a 10 ton overhead hoist running on 8” columns.

[12V71]

That's what porta powers are for. It's not uncommon especially the large stuff to be majorly out of round. I'm guessing the dudes who load and unload the stuff figure dropping it and banging it around is their version of " testing".

Yeah, we tacked up with heavy duty screw dogs with a 7/8" fine thread.

[whtbaron]

the trailer in the first pic looks interesting. the one with the dual arches on it

wonder if it could be used with a chain fall to pick up and move what you need it too.

That's made for moving large round bales off the field. You back into the bales with the rear beams lowered, and gradually push the load to the front with the next bale. The hydraulic cylinders raise the back of the lower beams for transport when you get it loaded. To unload you just drop the beams until the bales touch the ground and you unload a nice straight row of them. Be a little awkward for moving other objects, but I suppose it could be done.

[M J D]

Yeah, we tacked up with heavy duty screw dogs with a 7/8" fine thread.

That works. I found it easier to get the pipe close to round before fitting up. Never really ran into it much on 8 or 10" pipe but it was more often than not on 24 or 30"

[farmersammm]

Not sure what your building, thats a nice price on 8” are you building the Uranus fortified bunker? There is a local shop that has a 10 ton overhead hoist running on 8” columns.

We might run up to Kansas to look at the same stuff in 5 1/2" diameter, but I'm thinking this stuff might just be perfect. It's stout enough to make for very little deflection.

Tonnage isn't an issue as much as how the pipe's gonna behave in a freestanding crane, not anchored to the ground. I need the most rigid legs I can afford. 8" ought to just about fill the bill. I'm going 13' high. The more I looked at this stuff, the better it looked.

4) 13' legs
4) 12' crossmembers

1 joint would make 3 legs. 2nd joint would make 1 leg, and 2 crossmembers. 3rd joint would be the cleanup. Take the remainder to auction.

It's really climbing price wise. If the used beams work out, it's pushing $2000, not including the steel needed for the end trucks, and other stuff. I was sick about the money spent for the lathe, but now I wouldn't be without it. Amortize the cost over the 3 major teardowns coming up, and it's really almost paying for itself this Winter. I somehow remember hearing that shop labor rates are pushing around $100/hr

BTW...................... I looked at the quote, and it's 3/8 wall. The .280 wall was some new prime pipe out of Port of Catoosa in a smaller diameter.

The boss didn't even get out of the pickup....................she just gave her nod of approval the minute we drove up to the stack. It looked about right to her.

At 28#/ft, it ought to be a real hoot to work with this stuff

[Lis2323]

I was sick about the money spent for the lathe, but now I wouldn't be without it. Amortize the cost over the 3 major teardowns coming up, and it's really almost paying for itself this Winter. I somehow remember hearing that shop labor rates are pushing around $100/hr
]

Im quite certain most established shops in my area are well above the $100 per hour mark


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[whtbaron]

Yep.... machinery dealerships are pushing $180 for mechanical work. The only tools I've regretted buying were the cheap junk ones that didn't last. Quality tools will still be fixing stuff when we're gone...

[farmshop]

Major equipment dealerships are 140-170 per hour around here. The cement pad would be handy on many levels. Around here it’s a 3 yard minimum so that’s what you pay whether it’s 1 or 3 yards

[idacal]

im guessing your making a gantry style rolling hoist? build it too heavy and you will not be able to move it.

[farmersammm]

im guessing your making a gantry style rolling hoist? build it too heavy and you will not be able to move it.

A semi stationary bridge crane with removable wheels. With the wheels, I can move it out of the work area, and put it somewhere in the yard when I don't need it. The only thing in the work area that would be permanent, is 4 concrete pads for the columns to sit on. 4 pin-on jack attachments at all 4 corners for leveling, and raising it to remove/install wheels. Won't sit on jacks when in use, just use them to raise it so's it can be leveled on the pads with shims/plate.

8" S beam gives me a safe 4000# capacity for a 12' clear span.

I think it's extremely doable. With 8" pipe for the columns, and crossmembers, it's possible to eliminate excessive gusseting.

It's still a tossup. A level pad would be great. Then just use a simple gantry crane. But the damn ground slopes pretty good over 20 feet. This means a ramp to get onto the slab, and one end of the slab higher than the surrounding area. This makes the area unusable for working on wide equipment to a certain degree, unless I pour a slab that covers the entire 25' wide work area, making it as long as the 40' container..............you're lookin at about 1000sf of slab.

For flatwork, the slope is relatively steep. Ok for a driveway that needs drainage, but a PITA for a level pour. Either have to thicken the slab at the high end, or bring in dirt to fill beneath the slab to raise it. Be more money than building the bridge crane, then you're still left with building a gantry crane. I wish I had done this when I was young, and planned better along the way.

A slab would be great for splitting a tractor, but I can do the same with temporary steel rails.

And............a rollaway crane will be easy to sell when I'm gone. Or easy to sell when I can't do this kind of work anymore.

[farmersammm]

I need about at least 20' of workspace for the swather. Then there's the cutting table that takes up some space alongside the container. So, maybe about 25' width needed. I suppose a guy could tuck a dedicated slab up against the fence, wide enough for a gantry crane. I have a really large yard, but the house, and "shop' are tucked tight into one corner.

[idacal]

The best thing i ever did was pour concrete, everything else is so much easier, that was before my building before everything. my brother has 5 containers lined up and no concrete, so he is out there trying to fab stuff in the gravel do mechanic work in the gravel. Everything takes twice as long because when you set your stands they can still settle. the only good thing about work8ng in the dirt is the oil spills are self cleaning. Just move to a different spot. At 140 an hour for a mobile mechanic how many hours do you need to save to pour yourself a slab? But it looks like quite the fun project.

[whtbaron]

Yep, my 2 older sheds that weren't heated both have gravel floors. I might pour concrete in them before I retire yet. I loved the concrete floor in the heated shop even before I got heat in it.... makes a big difference in getting dust/grit in gear boxes, engines etc. when you're pulling stuff apart too.

[farmersammm]

Maybe one day, but not right now I guess.

[whtbaron]

I said the same thing about the 2 older sheds for 30 yrs. There was always more immediate priorities. When I converted the hog barn to a heated shop, I had to bite the bullet because of the gutters and sloped floors. No regrets.

[Leogl]

I am gonna agree with idacal on this project I think this is going to be top heavy and I think moving it on a unlevel ground is gonna be tough
I am guessing after you move this once and relevel it to use it your gonna set it up more permanent . Your gonna be way high by time you get cribbing under those legs to hold everything up in the air . Those pin on wheels are gonna be kinda intricate as two of them going to have to be steerable in order to move it . Don’t know what size tires and wheels you are planning on but they are going to be heavy to put on by hand