Would I be wrong to use 6013 over 7018 on this?

[Willie B]

While I haven't ran all the all-position rods, but I do agree with how great it runs. I usually order a pound or two of 3/32" and 1/8" each time I place an order with HTP, which is pretty dang often, LOL.

Kenny, age 57 has done all the welding for a family excavation business since his early teens. They recently came into some money, bought their first MIG machine. Up until, he did everything with a Lincoln Buzz Box using 80TAC+. He shows thousands of successful welds. Of course, he hasn't touched a stick rod since the MIG (Miller 255).

[bcguide]

I did some reading on 7018 a couple of years ago and one thing I remember reading was that engineers automatically spec 7018.
I think it was in some of lincoln information. They kinda insinuated that keeping the rods dry for low tensile steel was not necessary.

As to heating 7018 for fixing farm and heavy equipment I have not seen many welder/mechanics bother.

One thing from my personal experience is that the few times I used heated rods
They did seem to run nicer.
If I git a chance to pick up a rod oven cheap I probably would.
I have to be careful, I get knowing to much that I can't do anything.

Weld that sucker with what ever you feel comfortable with and post some pictures so we all can pass judgment on it
Lol

[smithdoor]

Try heating any rod and will run smoother.
I seen farmers grab rod out water and start welding. Ask why and the reply was " it will dry as I weld"

The name Low Hydrogen is a bit miss leading. The flux in the rod break water into Hydrogen gas and oxygen oxide.
The trap Hydrogen gas makes the weld brittle.

Rods like E6013 has flux that can take some Hydrogen gas out. The still needs to be dry but a little H2O the flux can remove from weld.

Dave

I did some reading on 7018 a couple of years ago and one thing I remember reading was that engineers automatically spec 7018.
I think it was in some of lincoln information. They kinda insinuated that keeping the rods dry for low tensile steel was not necessary.

As to heating 7018 for fixing farm and heavy equipment I have not seen many welder/mechanics bother.

One thing from my personal experience is that the few times I used heated rods
They did seem to run nicer.
If I git a chance to pick up a rod oven cheap I probably would.
I have to be careful, I get knowing to much that I can't do anything.

Weld that sucker with what ever you feel comfortable with and post some pictures so we all can pass judgment on it
Lol

[tapwelder]

I have a theory about 6013 and current and rod lean? I think to compensate for extreme rod lean current must be increased. Hence, fold saying work at the top end of the current. If the rod is tilted then essentially you are aiming at a wall once the bead solidifies. My experiences with losing the puddle occurs when the foam comes around the rod in the direction i am traveling. The slag juice is essentially traveling downhill off the bead.

Also tilted the rod changed the electrode profile and/or distance from work. Thus, more current is needed to compensate.

I have has more consistent success with tight arc and a vertical to less than 10 degree travel angle. The arc is enclosed in the flux and the puddle is well defined and arc is soft and spatter is minimal.

Just my theory and experience.

Good luck.

[smithdoor]

I spent 40 years working with welding rod and flux core was so easy.
To me just use flux core it makes life simpler.

All rods E60XX and E70XX is stronger than A36.

Dave

I have a theory about 6013 and current and rod lean? I think to compensate for extreme rod lean current must be increased. Hence, fold saying work at the top end of the current. If the rod is tilted then essentially you are aiming at a wall once the bead solidifies. My experiences with losing the puddle occurs when the foam comes around the rod in the direction i am traveling. The slag juice is essentially traveling downhill off the bead.

Also tilted the rod changed the electrode profile and/or distance from work. Thus, more current is needed to compensate.

I have has more consistent success with tight arc and a vertical to less than 10 degree travel angle. The arc is enclosed in the flux and the puddle is well defined and arc is soft and spatter is minimal.

Just my theory and experience.

Good luck.

[tapwelder]

I would think fluxcore for op would be the way to go. Even if it mean getting new machine. Especially, since it is company time.

I don't like the weight of wire feeders. Primarily, fluxcore residue and slag is difficult to remove for paint prep. As i recall, residue one reason i stopped using flux core in the field. I cannot see transporting dual shield setup.

You have tig option in a smaller package than other multiprocessors.

[albrightree]

Just to keep it rolling: https://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.c...php?f=4&t=4845

Here are some old posts from CEP ( "ShieldArc" on tractorbynet ) : https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...195610/?page=2

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-welds.397090/

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...k-test.211678/

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...esults.208495/

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...k-test.211905/

I think there's a thread or two on the AWS site on the subject too.


Regards

[smithdoor]

I was a holdout on using flux core in field till after 2004.
The cleaning weld and the speed is great 👍. It just sit in machine ready to weld.

Dave

I would think fluxcore for op would be the way to go. Even if it mean getting new machine. Especially, since it is company time.

I don't like the weight of wire feeders. Primarily, fluxcore residue and slag is difficult to remove for paint prep. As i recall, residue one reason i stopped using flux core in the field. I cannot see transporting dual shield setup.

You have tig option in a smaller package than other multiprocessors.

[whtbaron]

"Here are some old posts from CEP"

LOL.... different handle but he was still just a hobby welder...good read btw...

[tapwelder]

I also recall CEP say something about it rains a lot in Seattle.

[Sberry]

Buying a new machine defeats the point of having a machine to do the work. This is only a little bit of work.

[smithdoor]

If you doing welding living there will the next job.
It may pay for machine but next will be on the plus side.
But think in thread he posted he had a mig welder.

Dave

Buying a new machine defeats the point of having a machine to do the work. This is only a little bit of work.

[rexcormack]

I think the OP probably clicked on "unsubscribe from this thread" a long time ago!

[Lis2323]

I think the OP probably clicked on "unsubscribe from this thread" a long time ago!

Cheaper than Netflix but no “nudity, sexuality, smoking,drugs or language”.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[BrooklynBravest]

Well this thread blew up more than anticipated…

Anyway

1. I bought some 2AWG Dinse connectors and used the wire off the spare 10’ stinger I had to make myself a nice little extension cord.

2. The project is on hold at the moment unfortunately due to lack of permission from people who matter. Gives me more time to practice…

3. I got some 7018AC 3/32 and I’m just a butcher in vertical fillet welds. I’m ashamed to even post a picture, which is surprising to me because I’m very happy with my
Horizontal arc welds.

I made some 4” long coupons of 1/8 and 3/16” and both basically get blasted through unless I move so fast the weld doesn’t really fill or I turn the amps so low the rod won’t burn properly. (Went as low as 60amps)

[whtbaron]

Well... at least you haven't unsubscribed yet. I'm the last person to give you advice because I have the same problem, but posting pics might get you some help from the people that have the experience... even if you have to sift through several pages of posturing. Seems to me on the original build the uprights weren't even welded so you aren't alone. Would it help to do the horizontals in 7018 and the uprights in another rod or process? Perhaps MIG?

[Willie B]

Blasting through, turn the heat down. Biggest vertical fail is too long an arc. Check out Field Res on You tube. He talks at length about the ratio of volts & amps creating the heat (watts) for a weld.

A few of the 70 year old Lincoln welders were capable of adjusting volts. My Twentieth Century welders from 1974 can adjust volts. Everybody else uses a very tight arc length to reduce volts to avoid sag in vertical welds. If neither was controlled at the welder, short arc would make high amperage. Stick welders modulate amperage, so short arc turns the heat down, long arc turns it up. Long arc places molten filler out on the surface. Short arc places it where it bonds with frozen steel (less likely to sag).

If you are weaving, don't weave far on the open root first pass. Subsequent weave passes use a Z motion. Horizontal, with a pause each side of the weld. You need to weave farther than you think. Most critical is literally rubbing the flux. Low voltage, (short arc), high amperage, is key to success 7018 vertical.

[M J D]

Well this thread blew up more than anticipated…

Anyway

1. I bought some 2AWG Dinse connectors and used the wire off the spare 10’ stinger I had to make myself a nice little extension cord.

2. The project is on hold at the moment unfortunately due to lack of permission from people who matter. Gives me more time to practice…

3. I got some 7018AC 3/32 and I’m just a butcher in vertical fillet welds. I’m ashamed to even post a picture, which is surprising to me because I’m very happy with my
Horizontal arc welds.

I made some 4” long coupons of 1/8 and 3/16” and both basically get blasted through unless I move so fast the weld doesn’t really fill or I turn the amps so low the rod won’t burn properly. (Went as low as 60amps)

Sounds like too slow a travel speed and possibly too long of an arc. With 7018 , 3/32" you probably need 80 or so amps minimum. Maybe try on 1/4" or so until you get the technique down. I try to point the rod up at about a 30 degree angle. Not always possible, especially at the start. Your not going to get it right away, bit burn enough rod it will happen.

[123weld]

Thunderbolt will run long leads, so the doods won't have to haul it up the side of the thing Another blow in my eternal fight against inverter machines Those old transformer machines were bulletproof. Long leads...........just turn the amps upAttachment 1733129

yea, at home i pretty much run my idealarcs , use inverters for mobile

[123weld]

This sounds professional.

it was a class act

[123weld]

2. The project is on hold at the moment unfortunately due to lack of permission from people who matter. Gives me more time to practice…

gee, i cant imagine why. just show them this thread, that way, there rest assured evertyhing is alright

[bcguide]

Years ago I was try to do some vertical welds and they looked like crap. I went home and spent a couple of hours on the internet. I stumbled across Jodie's site tips and tricks, it's a great learning aid with very clear video of the arc. I really don't think there is a better way to see and learn what look for when welding vertical.
I probably look a bit daft watch the video and moving my hand like I had a welding stinger in it.
Anyway it worked for me.
Don't be afraid to play with your amperage, actually don't look at the numbers just adjust it till you get the results you want.

[farmersammm]

As I said it was freestanding before welding. They cut out concrete floor anywhere a post would be, placed a 2' thick concrete pad. Posts supported horizontal beams, then perpendicular to those were steel truss joists. All this was inside a 20 year old steel warehouse. It was converted to a doctor's office facility.

I can't say what standard it was built to, or what engineer signed off on it. I was surprised a faster process wasn't used. The welder explained that 6010 penetrates through rust better than other rods.

I'm sure that's what he said Probably no weld inspection, so what does he care. God Forbid the guy might of had to do some joint prep and use the right filler.

[Willie B]

Small towns in VT, no inspector. If there are codes, builders are unaware of it.

Truth is, until very recent years nothing at all was done about earthquake, or wind events. Gravity held buildings together. Just my observation here, we have many 250 year old buildings not attached to their foundations at all.

This was the same engineer who designed brackets to support a 6' wide entry passing above garage doors. Brackets would be 10 feet apart. He designed them specifying high strength steel, then they searched at length to find someone capable of confidently welding the stuff. He sits at a desk, knows nothing about welds. He could have saved thousands specifying a steel less fussy to weld.

[Sberry]

This is not a time is money job. Actually i am kind of surprised some bright guys dont know the difference in all this. What it is, what it does and very rudimentary design and quality demands/requirements. No bigger than a common treehouse, could compare this to child swingset. Basically playgrond equipment.
Why do so many experienced men compare this to a hi rise or nuke plant? WTF? There should be a get a realistic grip button.