auto-draining water separator for compressed air

[Sberry]

I been at this a while and have the same comp on 24/7 since 1972. I remodel a bit and have dry air with no moving parts.

[bcguide]

A plant that I worked at had something like a spitter vavle on the air compressor.
It was mechanical and didn't give any problems.

[oldgrandad]

We run these dryers from McMaster Carr #4997K23 its about $257.55 spits water as it fills haven't had any issues with them.

[M J D]

. I was out in the shop doing some work on the lathe ( I won't go into a long winded post about that ). Figured I would get a picture of the auto drain I've had good luck with.

[Oscar]

We run these dryers from McMaster Carr #4997K23 its about $257.55 spits water as it fills haven't had any issues with them.

Great to know they work "on the fly". I like the 80 CFM model, as I don't want it to be too ineffective at lower flow rates.

[scsmith42]

Oscar, if I were you I'd plumb the bottom of your compressor tank into some type of accumulator (such as a 16 oz bottle), and then set an auto drain valve onto the accumulator.

Wilkerson makes one that Horror Freight copied. It operates on the tank differential between the compressor kicking on and off, and works well.

Since sometimes your compressor runs constantly, the purpose of the accumulator is to hold the water out of the tank if the auto drain isn't cycling.

YMMV.

Scott

[Oscar]

Oscar, if I were you I'd plumb the bottom of your compressor tank into some type of accumulator (such as a 16 oz bottle), and then set an auto drain valve onto the accumulator.

Wilkerson makes one that Horror Freight copied. It operates on the tank differential between the compressor kicking on and off, and works well.

Since sometimes your compressor runs constantly, the purpose of the accumulator is to hold the water out of the tank if the auto drain isn't cycling.

YMMV.

Scott

Yup, I'm tired of the humidity/water, so I'm going all out!

[bfjou812]

I too have the setup that MJD has. Although mine doesn't have the tubing to direct the air/water away. I'm used to it going off and making some noise............................but when someone that doesn't know about it and it goes off, well you should see them run. Funny as hell. It almost makes the decision to run some tubing more difficult to do.
The drain works very well in my opinion. I also have 4 drip legs on my air line run. It is probably a total of 50' long 3/4" black iron pipe with no drier. I live in central Florida and the humidity is usually pretty high. I haven't had any issues with water getting in the air tools or anything. In fact the drip legs have had very little if any water in them.

[M J D]

I too have the setup that MJD has. Although mine doesn't have the tubing to direct the air/water away. I'm used to it going off and making some noise............................but when someone that doesn't know about it and it goes off, well you should see them run. Funny as hell. It almost makes the decision to run some tubing more difficult to do.
The drain works very well in my opinion. I also have 4 drip legs on my air line run. It is probably a total of 50' long 3/4" black iron pipe with no drier. I live in central Florida and the humidity is usually pretty high. I haven't had any issues with water getting in the air tools or anything. In fact the drip legs have had very little if any water in them.

The drain hose will dance around and scare the crap out of someone as well. In the winter I leave it inside as the end may freeze up if I leave it outside. Normally I just run it under the overhead door and let it pisz outside. Coming off my tank I have a 3/4" hydraulic hose running to a series of loops made of 3/4" schedule 40 aluminum pipe that runs from ceiling to about 18" from the floor. A tee is made with a drop line just above the floor. Between the auto drain and the loop setup, almost all moisture is removed. The other drop legs very rarely have anything that collects.

[Sberry]

Mine go vertical and it really helps but I plumb in a receiver between my comps. I use 3 hp as the master and even have tyhe breaker off to the 5 slave, I use the tanks and receiver for 300 gallons and I can run down with wire wheel or big sander but its pretty rare and I can time it to work relatively continiously with 1 comp. My 3 starts less often with low start current, runs a little longer and I have more if I need it with a switch but its pretty rare except for sandblast.
I could do ok on 5 hp unit if I had only 1 tank.

[Sberry]

I like the 80 CFM model, as I don't want it to be too ineffective at lower flow rates.

I am not sure I understand this?

[Stick-man]

3M 28824's and 28826's. I actually added two smaller 120V compressors in parallel, and all 3 just barely keep up with 1 of those bad mamma jamma's.

Man those are sexy mo fo's!

[Oscar]

I am not sure I understand this?

From what I've read, some of the larger ones (that can support more total airflow) tend to loose efficiency/effectiveness if the airflow is not within a certain range; too low of an airflow rate, and the centrifugal action isn't enough to separate the water from the air.

[Sberry]

When they are oversized tend not to work right.

[Oscar]

When they are oversized tend not to work right.

Yup, that's what I said.

[Sberry]

Ok, I mis understood. Is this a cyclonic separator or a drain?

[Oscar]

Well, it should be both. I don't think I'd want a water separator that I couldn't drain.

[Sberry]

I saw pics of drains here but no filter/sep

[Sberry]

Kind of hard for me to grasp this as being a "hobby" ha.

[Oscar]

Understandable. That's because it is usually viewed to be a regular, full-time profession under most perspectives.

[Sberry]

Its just more work to me,,, hobby is,,,,,well,,,,,

[wmgeorge]

I have had automatic drains stick and dump air all the time. If your around you can turn it off with the ball valve otherwise the compressor will run and run sometimes to the point of tripping the OL or burning out the motor.

[2strokeforever]

I have a piece of chevy aluminum driveshaft running uphill from the oversized checkvalve.
The aluminum driveshaft cools the air and condenses moisture.
Moisture flows downhill backwards thru the checkvalve. (While the compressor is running)
The unloader valve drain is right behind the check valve where all the moisture collects.

All automatic and no extra parts to fail, the check valve can get frozen once in a while is the only issue

[old miner called Pop]

Always been curious. Why do you need to reduce pressure in the tank before you drain it???

I just let 'er rip, and shut the valve when it runs clean. Am I missing something?

I think its a safety thing, a blast of air could possibly cut your finger, same reason a lot of places will write your butt up if you blow your clothes off with an air line. It might even be an OSHA regulation Im not sure. But they say blowing air on your clothes with an air chuck will open you up, never saw it happen myself but Ive heard of it

I just let er rip myself and I have no problem blowing some dirt off of me when I have to either

[labparamour]

M J D,
I have a similar auto drain (still sitting in the box).
I was debating wiring it to the motor side of pressure switch so it only ran when compressor cuts in (during infrequent use, didn’t want it cycling).
If set to drain for 2 or 3 seconds every 1/2 minute, figure would keep things drained.
Not sure if power spikes, etc might shorten life of electronics in drain.
Thoughts?