Is there anyway to repair this Burner

[rjgogo]

I have a new on ordered but it will be at least a month. I use the griddle everyday. Anyway you can think of to repair this. I have a few weld processes available but it is pretty rusty from the Propane I guess.

[Weld_]

It's definitely repairable the question is, is it worth your time and expense to repair it. H ow much is the new one? Do you know what It's made from?

[whtbaron]

Chinesium in most cases... not easy to work with. The good news is that it only has to last a month. I've seen ski-doo pistons patched with epoxy that lasted years. For a temporary fix I would wire brush that burnt area really good, give it a layer of epoxy and drill some small holes where the original vents were. Gonna catch flack for this one on a welding site, but you did say a new one was on order...

[jpump5]

Hose clamp(s)?
Hose clamps and shim stock?
I know it’s crude, but it’s only temporary.

[whtbaron]

Hose clamp(s)?
Hose clamps and shim stock?
I know it’s crude, but it’s only temporary.

lol... hose clamps over wet epoxy.... there you have it folks... our 5 minute farmer fix of the day!

[smithdoor]

I hope did overnight shipping.
It is not safe to repair.

Dave

I have a new on ordered but it will be at least a month. I use the griddle everyday. Anyway you can think of to repair this. I have a few weld processes available but it is pretty rusty from the Propane I guess.

[rjgogo]

I hope did overnight shipping.
It is not safe to repair.

Dave

Thanks, kind of what I figured and Thanks all othersl, It is steel, What kind I don't know. the broken spot is where the ignitor lights the flame. I do not think an epoxy will stand the heat. Did not know if I could cut out the rusted part and TIG weld in a patch. Recently learned to TIG so the time used would be practice as well to get better. I pretty much can't make it worse.

Thought was cut out spot, weld in metal, drill holes for gas. I understand I would be working for about $1 an hour. But not sure if it would be safe. Im glad I caught it before it destroyed components in the range. But if it is not safe then I guess I will live without it for a month.

[Sberry]

You could weld it on but i would be inclined to drill holes in a sheet, roll it a little and hose clamp or tie wire it on.
But,,,, i been working around torches and burners all my life, its not that scary.

[Bob]

The way Sberry said would work but I would torch weld it until I closed the gapping hole up and then drill new holes. I see no problems with repairing it.

[whtbaron]

I don't think your burning propane will get anywhere near the heat of a 2 cycle piston. It's a 3 minute fix and if I'm wrong, you're right back to where you are now... I don't see a problem with fixing it either. It basically "leaked" out of each of those orifices from day one.

[rjgogo]

I will give it a try, nothing to loose I guess since I am going to throw it away at some point anyway. Best case, it works, worst case I am out some time and had some practice. Was a bit concerned about the gas but I guess I can monitor it. thanks all.

[Broccoli1]

I don't think your burning propane will get anywhere near the heat of a 2 cycle piston. It's a 3 minute fix and if I'm wrong, you're right back to where you are now... I don't see a problem with fixing it either. It basically "leaked" out of each of those orifices from day one.

It just needs to be a High Heat epoxy though.

Regular epoxy will indeed catch on fire. I might have used regular JB Weld on a patio heater.....

[Sberry]

Silicone would work with a day dry. I doubt it needs it, its simply to keep the pressure consistent and flame organized at that point.

[welding1]

Since its for you, you might mig weld or braze it. I operate a weld shop and customers bring this stuff in and always tell them no way. Way to much liability!

[Kelvin]

I'd probably cut up a beer can or get some copper sheet metal (or thin aluminum) and pop rivet a patch on, with gas holes drilled to match.

I'm a big fan of epoxy normally, but I don't think this is an appropriate use of it. You don't have to get epoxy very hot to melt (or burn) it.

[whtbaron]

I'd probably cut up a beer can or get some copper sheet metal (or thin aluminum) and pop rivet a patch on, with gas holes drilled to match.

I'm a big fan of epoxy normally, but I don't think this is an appropriate use of it. You don't have to get epoxy very hot to melt (or burn) it.

I pulled up some specs after I made that comment and now they are only rating high temp versions at 500 degrees?? What happened to the stuff we used to patch pistons with? The new epoxys may not work... even the high temp silicones are only rated to 500 to 572F. Brazing rod is good for around 1600 which is alright if you can fill the hole... thin metal sheet with SS hose clamps over high temp silicone would be my next choice. Most barbeque burners run around 550 max.

[tapwelder]

I am just guessing but i suspect the recess in important? I would try to incorprate that in the repair. I would braze a patch.

[rjgogo]

Finally got around to finishing up the repair. Welded in a patch and more started to dissolve but I was able to build it back solid. Drilled the holes and it works good as new. Will work til the new one arrives, also will keep it as a spare for down the road I guess.

[Bob]

That's great. I'm a firm believer in making it last.

[whtbaron]

Sweet... but you know what they say... pics or it didn't happen!

[Welder Dave]

Furnace cement, some thin easy to cut Sheetmetal and hose clamps or wire to keep it in place. I used this technique along with high heat exhaust wrap to repair a cracked manifold. Don't know if you need the wrap though. I used stainless steel zip ties to hold it on. Several experienced mechanic's all said I was likely to break some studs removing them. So far so good with the repair. Function is more important than form in this case.