Those are just references, it's up to you to work to either side of them to get the welds you want.
Here is the chart on the inside of my lincoln - is there a way to know what the actual voltage and WFS is ?
Those are just references, it's up to you to work to either side of them to get the welds you want.
Ol' Stonebreaker
"Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"
Hobart G-213 portable
Miller 175 mig
Miller thunderbolt ac/dc stick
Victor O/A setup
Makita chop saw
Wire feed speed can be measured by running out the wire for exactly 6 seconds, measuring how much came out and multiplying by 10. Then jot that down somewhere, or even on the door chart. You will want to do it on every voltage tap, as the speed changes slightly as the voltage changes. The voltage can be measured by using a multi-meter or volt meter wired across the output studs (where you would change your polarity). You will probably want to have someone watch as you are welding because every tap will offer a range of voltages as you vary the wire feed speed. and it likely isn't terribly linear either. For example, this is the volt amp chart from a Hobart Ironman 230 which has 12 different voltage settings (your machine WILL be different)
Miller Multimatic 255
My 180C has those stupid letters too, and man it's annoying. I know the settings on my buzz boxes aren't 100% accurate either, and the sweet spot varies by machine, but I find it a lot easier to keep a numerical value in my head from previous attempts. Somebody should make a decal with approximate values to slap over those factory letters.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les