I'm build my last welding bed for my Ram 5500 (that's what I told the wife). I've had a few and some had sweet paint jobs and some I did with some industrial Sherwin Williams. My deal is as I evolve I change thing to my bed as needed. Cruising the internet I've run acorss some Pipe Liner rigs, I love the style and am incorporating some ideas into my rig. So I have seen a few with no paint! Full on rust! some look like they have been rubbed with Boiled Linseed oil. Ive been playing around with Copper sulfate crystals, make the raw steel reddish, Muaritic Acid, that stuff is dangerous, removes mill scale! Also salt, vinegar and water helps the rusting process. Any suggestions?
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
Why in the hell you would WANT to rust anything about a truck frame is beyond me. Salt has destroyed about two ENTIRE truck bodies and frames under my care. You do that with guns, it's called blueing. Maybe you should visit Brownells.
Well, if you want to learn about patinas, I would recommend Fireball Tool's video as a good first step....
And if you're wanting to learn about truck bed ideas, there's no better video, imo, than Essential Craftsman's short bit on what he did for his rig. Of course, he's a carpenter rather than a welder, but I think you'll find more than enough good info in the video to make it worth watching.
Any patina you put on is just rusting the metal. It's not a protective coating at all, especially on something that'll be out in the rain and sun, getting chipped by road debris and the like. Anything you do short of powder coating will require some kind of protective layer sprayed over it. All the patina products do is accelerate the rusting process in a controlled manner, but it's still oxidation.
Powdercoating working truck beds is a total joke. One nick and the stuff starts blistering and peeling in huge flakes. When I build beds they get nearly a literal soaking with rustoleum primer then a coat of rustoleum color. It's not a super fancy job, but it's practical.
Back to the patina thing, I've matched a few new rifle receivers to older parts kits, using chlorine bleach on warmed up metal, gives you a nice tight, light rust that looks really realistic after a rub with oil and fine scotchbrite.
Cool videos, especially the band saw. I'm going to experiment with the choline bleach and warm metal idea. I'll try and post up a recent picture of my build!
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
After the bleach or acid, spray with hydrogen peroxide for a quick patina.
Then use a strong baking soda solution to neutralize.
Rinse with plenty of clean water and dry.
Adjust soak times or drying times for different effects.
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Powdercoating working truck beds is a total joke. One nick and the stuff starts blistering and peeling in huge flakes. When I build beds they get nearly a literal soaking with rustoleum primer then a coat of rustoleum color. It's not a super fancy job, but it's practical.
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Same here. Rustoleum primer then semigloss black. Easy to touch up after you add a box, hitch, suspension repair or……?
Well, if you want to learn about patinas, I would recommend Fireball Tool's video as a good first step....
And if you're wanting to learn about truck bed ideas, there's no better video, imo, than Essential Craftsman's short bit on what he did for his rig. Of course, he's a carpenter rather than a welder, but I think you'll find more than enough good info in the video to make it worth watching.
Any patina you put on is just rusting the metal. It's not a protective coating at all, especially on something that'll be out in the rain and sun, getting chipped by road debris and the like. Anything you do short of powder coating will require some kind of protective layer sprayed over it. All the patina products do is accelerate the rusting process in a controlled manner, but it's still oxidation.
All good info as usual Vaughn.
However I watched part of that Essential Craftsman video when you posted a while back and really didn’t care for his style or ideas.
However I watched part of that Essential Craftsman video when you posted a while back and really didn’t care for his style or ideas.
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I thought I hadn't found time to paint. Now it's patina!
An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
My question is, do you want the look, or do you want the rust? Personally I have a hard time falling in love with rust knowing how destructive it can be in the long term. Another option to consider would be to paint it with rustoleum as 12V suggested, but then "wrap" it with vinyl with a computer generated picture of rust on it. With paint getting so expensive, wraps are gaining momentum.
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You can go with CorTen steel that is made to rust but only so deep. A company in Utah has now figured out how to make tin in Cor Ten. I'm actually using it on the house I am building right now.
Or you could use Gilder's Paste to make it look rusted but it actually wouldn't be. It would need a clear coat to protect it though. I used it on this air conditioner screen and took it to an auto painter to coat it flat clear.
My question is, do you want the look, or do you want the rust? Personally I have a hard time falling in love with rust knowing how destructive it can be in the long term. Another option to consider would be to paint it with rustoleum as 12V suggested, but then "wrap" it with vinyl with a computer generated picture of rust on it. With paint getting so expensive, wraps are gaining momentum.
Something is wrong, I can't send pictures with my phone. Lady I grew up with bought a 1936 Ford 1-1/2 ton dump. It was State of Montana truck. It had a couple small holes, but mostly surface rust. She & her husband own a body shop. They repaired the rust holes in a manner you'd be proud to show off. They killed the rust with a chemical rust killer, sanded enough to smooth it out, & clear coated it. I think it looks great! Truck looks stock but has the drivetrain from a Dodge camper special truck 5.9 Cummins. I see it on the road often in summer, with stock drivetrain, you couldn't drive it often or far.
An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
I like the look of an old work bed, My welding bed is 3/16" for exterior and 11 Gauge inner boxes, and 4" 8" and 14" pipe for corners or any thing that needs to be curved instead of boring 90 degree corners. I would prime (Sherwin Williams Red Oxide primer) the under side and interior of boxes,I doubt that the rust would be no more than surface rust, especially with a periodic coat of Boiled Linseed oil. Bob had mentioned Corten, too late my bed is close to completion.
Originally Posted by whtbaron
My question is, do you want the look, or do you want the rust? Personally I have a hard time falling in love with rust knowing how destructive it can be in the long term. Another option to consider would be to paint it with rustoleum as 12V suggested, but then "wrap" it with vinyl with a computer generated picture of rust on it. With paint getting so expensive, wraps are gaining momentum.
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
Move up here to Iowa, Minnesota and the like, we salt roads in the winter. You will get all that rust patina you can handle.
Or VT. Their newest rust maker is brine. They spread that snot on the roads every night. It snows probably twice a week on average, often as not, just a dusting, that $hit goes on every night. It prevents snow from sticking & when the conditions are just right your car becomes like Chevy Chase's snow coaster. I personally witnessed three serious accidents, & passed a dozen more one evening. Ended up in a traffic jam 2-1/4 hours we didn't move at all because of that stuff.
An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Its equivalent to the mediocre guitar player in his garage sanding down wear marks in his guitar to duplicate something like SRV's strat.
SRV slept with his guitar and played night and day for years...... You can't replicate hard work.
Give it a rest. Making a patina is simply speeding up the process. Not everyone wants to wait for years. If you want rust, a mixture of 16 ounces hydrogen peroxide, 2 ounces of vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon of salt will make a rust-creating chemical. The steel has to be clean so you need to wash the metal with a degreaser. Spray some on let it sit, when it starts to dry, spray more on. When it reaches the level you want, wash the surface with water to neutralize the solution. If you want prepared patina chemicals, I'd suggest going to Sculpt Nouveau - https://sculptnouveau.com/ I've used a variety of their products on different projects. They work really well and will do exactly what's shown on their website.
John T and swines have great points. Since I've been working on customers projects that pay, the bed build is second fiddle. Over the holiday I'll get back at it and still have made up my mind. BTW SRV is the greatest ever!
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
I'm hoping to see some pictures of the truck when you try this.
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I'm going post pictures, right now have issues with my MacBook. I guess I'm leaning towards an actual real paint job with body fill and sanding to feather edges. I have some Sherwin Williams Red oxide fo primer and Acrolon 282 semi gloss black. That Acrolon lays down nice, I painted my Jeep bumpers and when your prep is good you can see your face in it. Got a couple of customers to take care of first then back to the bed.
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
. Here’s an update, looks like I’m not going Fuax patina! Really struggled with "to paint or not to paint. I had rolled the Shriwin Williams primer and epoxy paint, mainly cause spraying makes a huge mess. Problem is the rollers leave lint and orange peel. Once its installed I might cover the cab and the Miller welder knock down the orange peel and spray.
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Last edited by welding1; 01-11-2022 at 08:41 AM.
We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
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Originally Posted by 12V71
. Here’s an update, looks like I’m not going Fuax patina! Really struggled with "to paint or not to paint. I had rolled the Shriwin Williams primer and epoxy paint, mainly cause spraying makes a huge mess. Problem is the rollers leave lint and orange peel. Once its installed I might cover the cab and the Miller welder knock down the orange peel and spray.
