Cheap welding rods?

[TorontoJoe]

This is one of the most divisive topics you'll ever find on any welding forum. The fear is hydrogen embrittlement. For that to happen you need three things...1) steel which is susceptible (high strength steel), 2) high degree of restraint (thick sections) and 3) a source of hydrogen (in this case moisture in the flux).

The short version is that if you're welding mild steel none of this matters. If you're doing code work where it would matter you would have a procedure in place that needs to be followed to the letter. For hobby welders it simply isn't a factor for what almost anybody is doing.

Fresh/dry/warm rod does start a bit easier and run a bit smoother, but it's not some night and day difference. If the flux is intact you can use it just fine. I have 50lb cans that have been opened for several years and they weld perfectly.

For whatever reason some folks like to grind an axe about this and make it seem like you'll have issues if you use 7018 that hasn't been stored in a heated rod box after either being removed from a fresh tin or having been put through the drying procedure (only one time!). They also tend to always bring up another process and further derail the thread for some reason.

Just throwing this out there…. At the risk of hijacking my own topic. As it happens I own a vacuum sealer. Would it not suffice to simply break up the rods into smaller quantities and vacuum seal what I’m not using?

Now back to cheap welding rods

[M J D]

Just throwing this out there…. At the risk of hijacking my own topic. As it happens I own a vacuum sealer. Would it not suffice to simply break up the rods into smaller quantities and vacuum seal what I’m not using?

Now back to cheap welding rods

It's really unnecessary but why not? I would just store them in one of the screw top holders or if they came in a 10 lb can, just put the plastic cover on. FWIW, I only use an oven for 8018-11018 electrodes and that is only plugged in a few days before use. So far no nuns, puppies or anything else have been harmed in the process. If it's a larger " critical" job, a fresh container of what's appropriate ( and it's never 6013, 6010-11 or 7014) is used.

[whtbaron]

Whether or not it will help will depend more on the humidity in your shop than heat, but it can have an impact. As others have said, I've had quasi-sealed packages around for years between uses with no problems. The only time I had problems was storing them in my unheated shop in winter. The temperature swings and humidity in the air caused the rods to rust in between the flux and the metal... which rendered them pretty much junk. At that point reheating won't get rid of the rust. Since I've moved to the heated shop, I have no problems storing them in the original containers. Something I won't use much I'll reseal with tape, but for the common rods I don't bother.

[smithdoor]

Heating rod is for some types work.
But why use low hydrogen in first place.
If did not have a low hydrogen I would use E6013 or E7014.
I can see having to a E8018 and up for some types of steel.
When welding A572 the specific do call out using E7016 or E7018, wire E71T-1 with CO2.
But most here is using A36 not on buildings so can a good stable rod.

Dave

It's really unnecessary but why not? I would just store them in one of the screw top holders or if they came in a 10 lb can, just put the plastic cover on. FWIW, I only use an oven for 8018-11018 electrodes and that is only plugged in a few days before use. So far no nuns, puppies or anything else have been harmed in the process. If it's a larger " critical" job, a fresh container of what's appropriate ( and it's never 6013, 6010-11 or 7014) is used.

[Oscar]

Heating rod is for some types work.
But why use low hydrogen in first place.

Dave

Because that is what they prefer and want to do, and they should be left be; just the same way you have your personal needs/wants/preferences and do not like people try to convince you otherwise, which you have made it very clear here as of late by using your run-around side-tracking posts.

[M J D]

Heating rod is for some types work.
But why use low hydrogen in first place.
If did not have a low hydrogen I would use E6013 or E7014.
I can see having to a E8018 and up for some types of steel.
When welding A572 the specific do call out using E7016 or E7018, wire E71T-1 with CO2.
But most here is using A36 not on buildings so can a good stable rod.

Dave

In all honesty I could give a flying fluck what you do. I use what I use because I know it works. I use 70s6 in .035 and .045 dual shield when appropriate. 6013, 7014 or 7016 is a waste of money for something that does nothing 7018 doesn't do. For the thousandth time, unheated 7018 is still superior to 6013, 7014 or 7016.

[smithdoor]

Good you using your favorite rod

Dave

In all honesty I could give a flying fluck what you do. I use what I use because I know it works. I use 70s6 in .035 and .045 dual shield when appropriate. 6013, 7014 or 7016 is a waste of money for something that does nothing 7018 doesn't do. For the thousandth time, unheated 7018 is still superior to 6013, 7014 or 7016.

[TorontoJoe]

Clearly I've missed some previous drama...

It stands to reason that you get what you pay for. And again.... hack skills with mediocre equipment here. I freely admit it...

OK, Let me change this up a bit. What are your favourite cheaper rods? Like if you can't get your preferred electrodes and have only cheapies to choose from... Powerweld? Blueshield? I can't think of any others at the moment...

[whtbaron]

Drama happens. I doubt most of these guys would have heard of Power Weld since it's been packaged for Princess Auto which is Canadian. Possibly Harbor Freight has the same rods with a different name. As you have already found, what they find for the US on Ebay or Amazon isn't cost effective to get to Canada under most circumstances. I don't mind Blueshields, but they tend to be competitive pricewise with Lincoln and Hobart locally.

[TorontoJoe]

I think Blueshield is just a little less expensive than Lincoln/Hobart here... But not much. I was reaching for a name that wasn't one of the huge multi-nationals

[smithdoor]

E71T-11 from Amazon

Dave

Clearly I've missed some previous drama...

It stands to reason that you get what you pay for. And again.... hack skills with mediocre equipment here. I freely admit it...

OK, Let me change this up a bit. What are your favourite cheaper rods? Like if you can't get your preferred electrodes and have only cheapies to choose from... Powerweld? Blueshield? I can't think of any others at the moment...

[TorontoJoe]

E71T-11 from Amazon

Dave

This stuff?
https://www.amazon.ca/PGN-E71T-11-Ga...dDbGljaz10cnVl

[smithdoor]

This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091NBVM2X...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

This stuff?
https://www.amazon.ca/PGN-E71T-11-Ga...dDbGljaz10cnVl

[Freebirdwelds]

Another thread gone to ****..........

[whtbaron]

Another thread gone to ****..........

It's salvageable if people are willing to be civil...

[smithdoor]

I have read the name Power Weld and Princess Auto in pass.
Did not know it was Canadian.

In 1 to 5 pound sizes you find a lot of repackage rods and wire. Back in 1960's welding supply companies would sell rod by pound. Today they to sell repackage rod.

For my welding I did pass even 5 pounds would not last a day.

Dave

Drama happens. I doubt most of these guys would have heard of Power Weld since it's been packaged for Princess Auto which is Canadian. Possibly Harbor Freight has the same rods with a different name. As you have already found, what they find for the US on Ebay or Amazon isn't cost effective to get to Canada under most circumstances. I don't mind Blueshields, but they tend to be competitive pricewise with Lincoln and Hobart locally.

[bead-boy]

I just found the "Airgas Outlet" website. Saw that a 50 pound can of Lincoln 7016 for $65.00 so I ordered it and some grinding discs and safety goggles.

Unfortunately it is the floppy noodle size 3/32 which i probably don't have much use for, so doubt I will even use 5 pounds. But for that price it might motivate me to practice more and try some vertical and overhead.

If anybody in my local area wants some let me know.

[MinnesotaDave]

I just found the "Airgas Outlet" website. Saw that a 50 pound can of Lincoln 7016 for $65.00 so I ordered it and some grinding discs and safety goggles.

Unfortunately it is the floppy noodle size 3/32 which i probably don't have much use for, so doubt I will even use 5 pounds. But for that price it might motivate me to practice more and try some vertical and overhead.

If anybody in my local area wants some let me know.

3/32" is pretty handy really. Vertical welds are easier with it than 1/8" when people are just starting out.
(My students like it better for vertical)

But for repair work, I use it fairly often. Almost as much as 1/8" with 5/32" coming in distant third place.

[MinnesotaDave]

I have read the name Power Weld and Princess Auto in pass.
Did not know it was Canadian.

In 1 to 5 pound sizes you find a lot of repackage rods and wire. Back in 1960's welding supply companies would sell rod by pound. Today they to sell repackage rod.

For my welding I did pass even 5 pounds would not last a day.

Dave

L&M Fleet (hardware store) in my home town still sells rods by the pound on the open rack.

[whtbaron]

3/32" is pretty handy really. Vertical welds are easier with it than 1/8" when people are just starting out.
(My students like it better for vertical)

But for repair work, I use it fairly often. Almost as much as 1/8" with 5/32" coming in distant third place.

I like the 3/32 for a root pass... I can run it a little hot and get good penetration. If there's a big gap to fill above it I'll switch to 1/8 or 5/32. I don't use as much 5/32 either, mostly I try to avoid large gaps.

[SlowBlues]

.035" E71T-GS Hobart Fabshield 23 Self Shielded Flux Core 2# 2lbs $5.99 usd + FREE SHIPPING. killer deal for some GS self shielded

https://airgasoutlet.com/collections...hobs222308-019

[bead-boy]

3/32" is pretty handy really. Vertical welds are easier with it than 1/8" when people are just starting out.
(My students like it better for vertical)

But for repair work, I use it fairly often. Almost as much as 1/8" with 5/32" coming in distant third place.

I saw a you tube video with advice on using 2 hands, with one gloved hand on the rod to help get started. I tried it and things went better for me. Just one of the many learning curves I've had to climb with welding.

[whtbaron]

.035" E71T-GS Hobart Fabshield 23 Self Shielded Flux Core 2# 2lbs $5.99 usd + FREE SHIPPING. killer deal for some GS self shielded

https://airgasoutlet.com/collections...hobs222308-019

Free Shipping anywhere in the US... exporting is another story in most cases, although I haven't tried this one.

[Oscar]

Let the comparison begin!

The competition:

• Fresh Lincoln Excalibur
• Old Lincoln 7018AC (4yrs)
• new Mundaka 7018AC
• new Böhler Fox 7018
• old Blue Demon 7018AC (2yrs)

[whtbaron]

All 3/32"?