40Ton Hydraulic Press Brake

[SweetMK]

Its hard to want to go backwards once you've used a proper press though... setting the travel limit on the brake to acheive the same bend time after time again, and just positioning the metal and stomping, is pretty sweet.

If you want perfection, then you want a clutch activated, flywheel, mechanical press.
the shaft that rotates has two "crankshaft" ends,, when the clutch is activated, the die closes, and opens.

The shaft looks like the crankshaft for a two cylinder engine, but, both crank connections are "in time"
The "cranks" are connected to either end of the upper part of the press.

Even the mechanical press has adjustment in it.

[arcflash]

When you get to the point of forming find your center point and put two stick on inch tapes out from there. It make it easy to center parts.

[Munkul]

If you want perfection, then you want a clutch activated, flywheel, mechanical press.
the shaft that rotates has two "crankshaft" ends,, when the clutch is activated, the die closes, and opens.

The shaft looks like the crankshaft for a two cylinder engine, but, both crank connections are "in time"
The "cranks" are connected to either end of the upper part of the press.

Even the mechanical press has adjustment in it.

a mechanical press would be really annoying for one-offs... with a hydraulic press you just keep increasing either pressure or travel limit until you hit the angle you want.

I have a mechanical guillotine that does 5ft x 1/4" steel... the crank pins on it are 5" lol

[Silcodylo]

What if you made one side mechanically adjustable (still with two cylinders) just in case one side is slightly off, you'd still be able to fine tune it.

[Josey]

Just thinking. and probably this wouldn't work anyway
How about just using a two bank system with two separate levers. Hold both down at once or one at a time

[BrooklynBravest]

Just thinking. and probably this wouldn't work anyway
How about just using a two bank system with two separate levers. Hold both down at once or one at a time

Would never work. Same issues exist and then human error is added.


This is the best I got... This took like 3 hours if it doesn't work I give up.

The link between pivots is adjustable in length like a sway bar.

[acourtjester]

the are many plans for cantilevered press on the wed to give you ideas for your own design.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/327073991693813887/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/476818679267401227/

[djd775]

Would never work. Same issues exist and then human error is added.


This is the best I got... This took like 3 hours if it doesn't work I give up.

The link between pivots is adjustable in length like a sway bar.

The 2 bank system would work. And be pretty simple. Did you see the sketch I put in your Facebook thread?

Also, the toggle mechanism that you have modelled here will work well.


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[BrooklynBravest]

The 2 bank system would work. And be pretty simple. Did you see the sketch I put in your Facebook thread?

Also, the toggle mechanism that you have modelled here will work well.


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now that I drew it, Im much more interested in this style design. Its a lot less to deal with overall.

I just want to be sure it will work before I go in too deep.

[arcflash]

That's not a bad design as long as the link rod is adjustable.

[BrooklynBravest]

That's not a bad design as long as the link rod is adjustable.

I ran out of energy to draw it.

It will be like a sway bar/turnbuckle

[arcflash]

I understand. Too much computer time makes your head spin!

[Munkul]

That's a great design, but make sure the knuckles and pivots can cope with 20t of repeated force. The pins want to be 2" dia minimum imo.
Putting a 1" link rod with a turnbuckle in is a great way to get it set parallel, I like it.

I still like a dual ram split flow design better though.
What about spring return?
An up stroking design is self returning. That design would have to use springs I think? Or a 2 way ram.

[BrooklynBravest]

That's a great design, but make sure the knuckles and pivots can cope with 20t of repeated force. The pins want to be 2" dia minimum imo.
Putting a 1" link rod with a turnbuckle in is a great way to get it set parallel, I like it.

I still like a dual ram split flow design better though.
What about spring return?
An up stroking design is self returning. That design would have to use springs I think? Or a 2 way ram.

The two ram design isn’t guaranteed to go down evenly is the issue. And likely won’t.

The pins on the hydraulic cylinders are 1” i don’t think there will be any issue. Many designs I’ve seen use 1” pins.

I’m going to put them in bushings as well for longevity and replaceability

The sides are 3x5 1/4” tube and the horizontal plates are 1/2” on either side. You guys think that’s strong enough?



Added the adjustable linkage. 1" thread

[djd775]

now that I drew it, Im much more interested in this style design. Its a lot less to deal with overall.

I just want to be sure it will work before I go in too deep.

Understandable, and your design looks great. The original rack/pinion design would have left you cussing, this looks really good. The adjustable tie link is good and it’s acting in tension which is appropriate.

The column size you propose will be good and I expect the 1/2” plates will be fine too. You may find a need to truss the bottom apron to prevent too much deflection. Actual strength is seldom the important thing for brakes, it’s more about deflection. 0.010” can be a big deal on critical parts.

It was interesting to see your question on Facebook and make the connection between your profiles.

Good luck!


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[BrooklynBravest]

Understandable, and your design looks great. The original rack/pinion design would have left you cussing, this looks really good. The adjustable tie link is good and it’s acting in tension which is appropriate.

The column size you propose will be good and I expect the 1/2” plates will be fine too. You may find a need to truss the bottom apron to prevent too much deflection. Actual strength is seldom the important thing for brakes, it’s more about deflection. 0.010” can be a big deal on critical parts.

It was interesting to see your question on Facebook and make the connection between your profiles.

Good luck!


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I have no idea who you are on facebook lol.



Anyone offer suggestions for what to use bushing wise? I was advised not to use oilite bearings as they will wear down very fast?

[Munkul]

Actual strength is seldom the important thing for brakes, it’s more about deflection. 0.010” can be a big deal on critical parts.

Absolutely!

[BrooklynBravest]

Drew everything with shaft collars id assume theyre superior to cotter pins.

Not sure what steel to actually use for making the pins. Is regular 1" cold rolled sufficient or do I need a hardened pin?

[whtbaron]

What are 1" cylinder pins worth at Harbor Freight? Might be cheap enough to not bother making them?

Pretty sure most are harder than mild steel. https://www.hydrauliccylindersinc.co...-pins-drilled/

Could always use the pins like we used to put in hood pins if you need to make it pretty. They aren't going anywhere.

You will find those in different lengths for different cylinder yokes, some drilled for cotter keys, some slotted for C clips. In order to get the pins out, you need the back clear, so C clips will likely be easier to work with.

As for bushings, those cylinders operate on cultivator wheels with no bushings (in many cases) or grease and they run in the dust for decades moving up and down at each end of the field, for every round. I don't think it really matters what you make your bushings out of as long as they are greaseable and you grease them once a year. You'll never wear them out with the limited movement you'll have on that press.

[BrooklynBravest]

What are 1" cylinder pins worth at Harbor Freight? Might be cheap enough to not bother making them?

Pretty sure most are harder than mild steel. https://www.hydrauliccylindersinc.co...-pins-drilled/

Could always use the pins like we used to put in hood pins if you need to make it pretty. They aren't going anywhere.

They're too short.

Those pins only capture the clevis width.

[whtbaron]

Check with an ag dealer or online... it will be more money, but you should be able to get them in different lengths and the option between holes and slots. I know my Morris cultivators use at least 3 different lengths, some around 5".

[whtbaron]

I know up here, Princess Auto stocks them in 1" from 3 1/2 to 6 1/2 long, but I have no idea what they're export policy is. Prices run from $6 to $9 Cdn. so you would gain on the exchange. They come with both a hole and a slot for either the C clip or cotter key. https://www.princessauto.com/en/cyli...?skuId=3800452

I'm looking at a "standard width" one out of a 4x8 cylinder, with C clips, it's about 3 7/16 long.

[BrooklynBravest]

What are 1" cylinder pins worth at Harbor Freight? Might be cheap enough to not bother making them?

Pretty sure most are harder than mild steel. https://www.hydrauliccylindersinc.co...-pins-drilled/

Could always use the pins like we used to put in hood pins if you need to make it pretty. They aren't going anywhere.

You will find those in different lengths for different cylinder yokes, some drilled for cotter keys, some slotted for C clips. In order to get the pins out, you need the back clear, so C clips will likely be easier to work with.

As for bushings, those cylinders operate on cultivator wheels with no bushings (in many cases) or grease and they run in the dust for decades moving up and down at each end of the field, for every round. I don't think it really matters what you make your bushings out of as long as they are greaseable and you grease them once a year. You'll never wear them out with the limited movement you'll have on that press.

so you think just go raw on the hole? Pin into the side plate and call it a day with some grease?

[whtbaron]

so you think just go raw on the hole? Pin into the side plate and call it a day with some grease?

I hesitate to say that because I have seen the pinholes wear over time. I do think you could make a bushing out of steel tubing and it would be fine as long as they were greased.

[Meltedmetal]

I'd say it depends on how much use it will get. You could look at bushings like these if you can machine the holes to fit:
https://www.cylinderservices.net/sto...SIZES-c8329233