So how about I use 1/4” wall DOM and sleeve it as suggested?
Which then leaves the question do I do a single 1” pin on each side (not gonna use bolt) or do I do a pair of 3/4 pins?
If I do a pair I’m worried I will have alignment issues trying to get 4 holes to line up at different locations.
I anticipate the bed will weigh around 100-150 lbs if I make it 6” tall. So moving it will be a 2 person operation for sure.
I'd just use single pins as it's extremely difficult to get full bearing equally on a pair. I wouldn't bother with sleeves, just adding an extra reinforcement doubler to increase the bearing surface.
I'd just use single pins as it's extremely difficult to get full bearing equally on a pair. I wouldn't bother with sleeves, just adding an extra reinforcement doubler to increase the bearing surface.
I’m torn if I even want to make it adjustable.
It adds a different issue to the bed as well for constructing it. Might just ditch that idea the more I think about it.
It’s hard to pick a set height though before I buy tooling.
It adds a different issue to the bed as well for constructing it. Might just ditch that idea the more I think about it.
It’s hard to pick a set height though before I buy tooling.
On the press brake I built( much simpler design,) I just made sure I had enough headspace for the lower die. I figured I could always space it up if need be. Unless your using a lower die with a really large opening, not much travel is needed.
I love that press design. Did you build it? I built a nice press but had the pin holes drilled in a shop by someone and some of the holes are slightly off. I am going to modify my press with this type of design and solve that problem that has annoyed me for years.
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I love that press design. Did you build it? I built a nice press but had the pin holes drilled in a shop by someone and some of the holes are slightly off. I am going to modify my press with this type of design and solve that problem that has annoyed me for years.
i tried to use double pins on each side on my press I drilled them all on a mill and they still didn't line up right so Im 1 pin per side I like that stacked plate set up. trying to adjust a table with a couple of comealongs or a forklift or whatever other means that are used is always fun
Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
If you read about the blades that are available, only some "X" number of teeth should be "in the cut" at one time.
That is because the teeth gullets will fill with chips, and further cutting has no place to "store" chips waiting to be dumped.
The blade will keep cutting, and simply jam the cut full of chips.,, then you notice the saw really pulling hard.
On chainsaws, for big cuts, the chain has a "skip-tooth" design,, that ends up being 1/2 as many teeth.
If you need to cut a 36 to 60" tree, you need a chain with a single tooth every 2 or 3 inches.
To properly cut 12" with your saw, you would probably need a one or two tooth per inch blade,, there is very little need for such a blade, and it would be fragile.
Here is how I defeat the problem of too many teeth on my 5 to 8 teeth per inch blade (variable pitch blade),,
I put a clamp on the rear jaw of the vise,, then the 12" plate is put in the saw, with the rear elevated.
It is sort of like cutting with the saw vertical,, where the thickness is only 1/2",, but, even my 9X16 saw will not take 12" standing up.
With the part in the saw like this, I only have at a maximum, about 1/4 of the width being cut at any one time. (about 3" when close to the end of the cut)
my saw has zero problems cutting 3",, here is a pic of four parts being cut at a time, each is 3/4" thick.
My saw has enough power to pull a Lennox 1" wide blade in half at the weld if I cut 12" laying down in the saw.
When I first got the saw, I broke several blades like that.
Lifting the blade about every 5 to 15 seconds will allow the chips to clear,, but, why risk destroying a blade??
Cut the holes and used an air chamfer tool to break the edges all around.
Everything moves awesome by hand. I’m concerned if it will scrape the walls of the tube frame when it’s under real force but I guess we shall see.
Worst case I cut the piece back and maybe add a replaceable wear strip. I’d say over 85% of the force is vertical though given the travel of the links.
Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 02-01-2022 at 06:19 PM.
I know you are doing guide bars for the punch holder. You may want do leave room between the punch holder and the uprights for a wear strip as well so it doesn't wear into your tube.
I know you are doing guide bars for the punch holder. You may want do leave room between the punch holder and the uprights for a wear strip as well so it doesn't wear into your tube.
I was thinking if that was worth it, I wasn’t sure what to do there. It’s not a big deal to cut the piece down 1/4” or whatever per side.
Would you just use a steel strip? Or brass maybe? 1" Wide brass flat bar isn't too pricey. Oilite Bronze is.
Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 02-01-2022 at 08:16 PM.
Anything easily replaceable will do. Even if it's just a piece of steel. If you're planning on bolting the guides, just sandwich the wear piece between them and the upright.
Something like this? Thats 1/8" x 1" in the blue. I guess I would have to throw a couple screws in it but that thin will probably not sit flat? Or attach it with VHB tape which is surely easier for future replacements.
Should have a good lifespan as long as the punch is centred.
It should honestly be a pretty even distribution I think but I always strive to work in the center regardless.
Just cut the ram/holder down 3/16” per side. .125” wear strips and .045” VHB. Rounded up to 3/16.
Question now, do I put the wear strip on the frame or can I make it even easier and put it taped to the ends of the ram? I’m guessing that is less effective though even if it’s brass since the tube still sees a moving face.
It should honestly be a pretty even distribution I think but I always strive to work in the center regardless.
Just cut the ram/holder down 3/16” per side. .125” wear strips and .045” VHB. Rounded up to 3/16.
Question now, do I put the wear strip on the frame or can I make it even easier and put it taped to the ends of the ram? I’m guessing that is less effective though even if it’s brass since the tube still sees a moving face.
On the frame. Goal is to confine any wear to replaceable parts. The frame isn't really replaceable. The ends of the punch holder can always be built back up if needed.
Last edited by Boostinjdm; 02-02-2022 at 12:23 PM.
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Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
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