Remote-mount oxygen and propane regulators in a truck

[user 9328330]

Hi Y'all. Working on the next truck which will have the tanks in a separate compartment from the regulators. Both compartments are vented, etc, etc.....I know how to build a truck and I'm hoping not to get the discussion sidetracked into child-level safety issues such as not getting oil in oxygen lines, not using hydraulic lines for oxygen, appropriate types of line for propane use, etc.....because this is a grown-up question being asked of other grown-ups. Capische?

So it's really clear, I'm talking about running a flexible SS line at full tank pressure from the tank to a regulator which will be about 36" away. This line isn't exposed to the sun or to impact danger. On the end of this line, it will go into a solidly mounted block (bulkhead fitting) which is mounted to the wall of the compartment. The other end of this block has the appropriate CGA fitting to screw a standard torch regulator onto.

The torch compartment in my International that I'm selling is really ideal, but because of the body layout this one will be configured differently. Who has any leads on brands or sites with these remote-mount systems that are actually for sale? So far all I've found is the Harris SG910 series and the Scott RM-8 series which I believe are actually the same thing. The above setups are more for shop installations assuming long runs of low-pressure line after the regulator, so they also include a check valve that keep you from venting those lines when you disconnect the tanks. I don't really need that, but it'd be OK if I had it, I guess.

I think it'd be much cheaper if I built it myself. The high pressure CGA-510 and CGA-540 hoses aren't too hard to find, it's the bulkhead connector w/ appropriate CGA mount that's more of an issue. I definitely need the regulator end hard-mounted to the wall of the compartment. The high-pressure line doesn't necessarily need to pass through the wall of the compartment in any particular place, so the bulkhead fitting can be surface-mount or can pierce the wall.

Qualified first-hand experience with high pressure remote-mounted regulators, specifically their mounting system or the high-pressure portion, is VERY welcome. I already have the regulators themselves; they're nothing special.

[12V71]

Hi Y'all. Working on the next truck which will have the tanks in a separate compartment from the regulators. Both compartments are vented, etc, etc.....I know how to build a truck and I'm hoping not to get the discussion sidetracked into child-level safety issues such as not getting oil in oxygen lines, not using hydraulic lines for oxygen, appropriate types of line for propane use, etc.....because this is a grown-up question being asked of other grown-ups. Capische?

So it's really clear, I'm talking about running a flexible SS line at full tank pressure from the tank to a regulator which will be about 36" away. This line isn't exposed to the sun or to impact danger. On the end of this line, it will go into a solidly mounted block (bulkhead fitting) which is mounted to the wall of the compartment. The other end of this block has the appropriate CGA fitting to screw a standard torch regulator onto.

The torch compartment in my International that I'm selling is really ideal, but because of the body layout this one will be configured differently. Who has any leads on brands or sites with these remote-mount systems that are actually for sale? So far all I've found is the Harris SG910 series and the Scott RM-8 series which I believe are actually the same thing. The above setups are more for shop installations assuming long runs of low-pressure line after the regulator, so they also include a check valve that keep you from venting those lines when you disconnect the tanks. I don't really need that, but it'd be OK if I had it, I guess.

I think it'd be much cheaper if I built it myself. The high pressure CGA-510 and CGA-540 hoses aren't too hard to find, it's the bulkhead connector w/ appropriate CGA mount that's more of an issue. I definitely need the regulator end hard-mounted to the wall of the compartment. The high-pressure line doesn't necessarily need to pass through the wall of the compartment in any particular place, so the bulkhead fitting can be surface-mount or can pierce the wall.

Qualified first-hand experience with high pressure remote-mounted regulators, specifically their mounting system or the high-pressure portion, is VERY welcome. I already have the regulators themselves; they're nothing special.

I don't have the specifics but have seen several railroad welding trucks with cylinders mounted on one side of the truck with regulators bulkhead mounted on the other side with flexible stainless whips.

[leightrepairs]

I have hard plumed a couple of manifold systems in the past and we used Swagelok fittings and stainless tubing to do so. The regulators were mounted to the wall and had whip hoses to connect the tanks to the lines. You have to specify "cleaned for oxygen" when ordering the swagelok tubing and fittings.

[Broccoli1]

something like this ?

https://industry.airliquide.us/sites...g_brackets.pdf

[duramax-rob]

go to or call a scuba dive shop because they use those hoses on their 3000-3500 lb air cascade system of bottles for filling tanks

[user 9328330]

something like this ?

https://industry.airliquide.us/sites...g_brackets.pdf

Exactly, that's the Scott version of the Harris, or vice versa, that I mentioned in the original post. I've seen a few prices for the Harris version that were in the hundreds of dollars each, seems high for a high pressure line and a manifold block with check valve. Was hoping maybe somebody had a line on something similar with a somewhat reasonable price.

If I were going to make my own version of that (dumbed down, without the check valve), the SS high pressure lines for oxygen and propane will be easy to find; it's the bulkhead fitting / regulator mount part of the equation that's more difficult so far. Going to call a couple of my LWS's tomorrow but I don't think they're going to have experience with this.

[user 9328330]

Thinking out loud, I guess I could connect that high pressure line directly into the regulator, might take an adapter. Then I'd just need to find a good way to mount the regulator itself to the compartment. I was assuming a hard-mounted bulkhead fitting with the regulator attached to it so that the fitting would be supporting the regulator just like a tank normally does.

[Broccoli1]

Holy Keerapp- this things things are $$$$

[psacustomcreations]

I have made a few systems similar to what you are looking for but designed for high pressure (5,000 psi) air. The systems also have to go on large trucks or boats so they are subject to a lot of mounting stresses.

To me the issue with the Air Liquide system is that while it is wall mounted, the fitting on the side is supporting all the weight of the regulator as you drive down the road. That may lead to stress on the fitting and eventual damage.



The Harris system for wall mount supports the regulator much better.




I have nearly all these parts listed below at work and could lay them out but I am off today. I could do that on Monday if you wanted.

If I were to make one like you describe using off the shelf parts, I would do the following:
CGA cylinder fitting connected to stainless NPT to JIC nipple

Connect that to a stainless line going to the other area.
Use a stainless JIC bulkhead connector


Another stainless JIC line to the regulator. Add in a flashback arrestor or check valve if desired.

The problem with typical welding regulator is the tapered barrel shape that makes it difficult to wall mount.
I use round barrel shaped regulators with a panel mount ring

[user 9328330]

I have nearly all these parts listed below at work and could lay them out but I am off today. I could do that on Monday if you wanted.

Yes, if you have the time for that, that would be 100% awesome! I have a little time working with hydraulics, but they're not my vocation....are you choosing JIC because they're common, or because of some other quality?

[psacustomcreations]

Yes, if you have the time for that, that would be 100% awesome! I have a little time working with hydraulics, but they're not my vocation....are you choosing JIC because they're common, or because of some other quality?

I will lay out a system on Monday/Tuesday and upload plenty of photos.


I like JIC on the ends of hoses because I can put them on and off stainless fittings without galling while easily making an air tight system. Getting a high pressure hose to sit right without twists is difficult when you have NPT ends.

I spent a lot of time in the Army making high pressure air systems and have had plenty of stainless NPT fittings sieze up while trying to get rid of that last little leak. Despite using teflon tape we could not get them to seal on occasion.

If you buy stainless fitting, make sure they are 316 stainless from Parker, Swagelock or a good company.

We bought some supposed 316 and they were import and rusted quickly. They may have been 304 sold as 316.

Swagelock tubing is great for fixed positions like in a building. I just don't like using it where there is vibration unless there are plenty of dampers or bushings.

We also have a hydraulic press and fittings at work so I can make custom length high pressure hoses.

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[user 9328330]

If you buy stainless fitting, make sure they are 316 stainless from Parker, Swagelock or a good company.

I haven't had SS components in a torch system before; it's always been brass. I realize that the flexible hose needs to be SS braided, but should the rest of the system be SS as well? I'm familiar with the galling characteristics of SS, so that's at the root of the question.

[psacustomcreations]

I haven't had SS components in a torch system before; it's always been brass. I realize that the flexible hose needs to be SS braided, but should the rest of the system be SS as well? I'm familiar with the galling characteristics of SS, so that's at the root of the question.

Either works perfectly well.
Stainless is no problem at all in this application.
I am not sure if there are brass hull penetrator or wall penetrator fittings. I haven't had a need to look for them. I am sure they exist, I just haven't used them.
Once I lay out the system, you can see which fittings I am using and the reason behind it.

You can buy pre-cleaned oxygen hoses in various lengths and with various ends. Cleaning any fittings to oxygen safe is not hard at all.


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[danielplace]

Would 1/4" NPT for the regulator connections is out of the question.

Thinking it would be a decent way to go. You dedicate your regulators to stay on the truck is only downside really.

Then use the nipples out of regulators to fabricate the tank to bulkhead lines. All could be in 1/4" NPT thread.

1/4" NPT HP Bulkheads fittings, 2 nipples and the two hoses and your done with nice solid install without breaking the bank.

https://www.highpressure.com/product...ulkheads-caps/

[danielplace]

These are pricey but kinda what is needed to be safe or similar. Doesn't need to be aircraft certified though $$$. Shop around.

The male and female ends would make it so easy to make up the setup you are building.

It is on the high side so you do not need them very big at all.

https://www.mhoxygen.com/product/4mr-flex-hose/

Two heavy wall nipples for strong regulator support,

https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/st...-npt-threaded/

[psacustomcreations]

I will work on pics for tbone today.

Here is the gas mixing panel I use at work. Air, Oxygen, Nitrox, Helium, booster pumps, etc are all incorporated.

Gas analyzers are used to verify proportions.

We have moved away from certain gases or mixes so some of these parts are taken out of service.






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[psacustomcreations]

Here are some pics.

We use Oxygen clean hoses from CramerDecker.

They are steel braided and come O2 clean in various lengths, diameters, and with various fittings on the ends.





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[psacustomcreations]

Here is a simple solution that shows the hoses and fittings from the bottle to the regulator. I will post more details
This setup uses mostly NPT fittings with one JIC since that is the hardware I have on hand.




Nut and nipple for the O2 bottle connection



Wall or hull penetration using a NPT and then out to a JIC.




Panel mount regulator



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[psacustomcreations]

Depending upon your regulators, you can make your own strap or mount.

I just recommend clamping to the body somewhere to reduce vibration.




Whether you use brass or stainless, make sure it is high quality and high pressure.

Here are a few cheap stainless next to some better ones
If you use this style wall penetrator fitting, make sure you use locktite on the jam nut or use two jam nuts.



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[psacustomcreations]

I can post more pics of various parts as needed. Just let me know which ones of any questions.



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[psacustomcreations]

You can also add check valves in the system if desired.



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[user 9328330]

Hey man, thanks so much for your time and insight. Sorry for the later reply; yesterday was a whirlwind and today is starting again. I wasn't originally planning to be using NPT on these fittings, but it looks like I'll need to on at least some of them...is there a special kind of teflon tape or other sealant I need to be using on the pipe thread with propane and oxygen? Obviously the JIC, etc don't need sealant.

[psacustomcreations]

Glad to help.

You can Google Oxygen safe teflon tape. There are several companies. Whoever you get your hoses or fittings from may have. Of course , they may charge more than getting the same stuff from Amazon.

Same with any hardware or fittings, once you know which ones, check Amazon for the same name. Avoid import fittings like the plague.



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