It is very true tear here.
May need a supper man but still works the same way. The weld tears on the pin holes.
When here of xrays of welds they look for pin holes and bubbles in weld.
Dave
Originally Posted by Kelvin
So just like postage stamps ... made out of 3/8" steel.
Yes but its got to get to the yeild point before it tears. It would be relevant so to speak if this was highly engineered joint loaded to capacity but it isnt. Its so overkill that the MFG lets the homeowner weld it together.
Look at this gem I found on the road, its the second piece of large steel from a county plow truck I have found on the road. When you consider I am 1 person in 59K lives here, only couple miles of road in county of 1000s got to wonder how many more they let this dumbass install. They let this guy work on commercial trucks. Not only him but who the hell is watching him?
This should put the worry about a couple pinholes or a little undercut in perspective when we see commercial work being done, cant even bracket a mud flap right.
Yes but its got to get to the yeild point before it tears. It would be relevant so to speak if this was highly engineered joint loaded to capacity but it isnt. Its so overkill that the MFG lets the homeowner weld it together.
Look at this gem I found on the road, its the second piece of large steel from a county plow truck I have found on the road. When you consider I am 1 person in 59K lives here, only couple miles of road in county of 1000s got to wonder how many more they let this dumbass install. They let this guy work on commercial trucks. Not only him but who the hell is watching him?
This should put the worry about a couple pinholes or a little undercut in perspective when we see commercial work being done, cant even bracket a mud flap right.
Well my thoughts are if you don’t know how and or what your fixing leave it alone get some help . Hitches are not a place to learn your welding skills . These guys have all given you valid points and you are not listening to them so go tear into it yourself and fix it
Wish you had put up some pictures before you started grinding.
First off...........when you grind a weld out, don't lay the grinder flat on the steel. Go into the bad weld with the tip of the grinding wheel, and attempt to "V" it out. This preserves the surrounding material.
Then work the "V" towards the good material until it's about flush. You can widen the "V" to "intercept" the undamaged plate. You've just created a wider "V" that way.
Then, go back and redo the weld with a bit wider weave to tie into the good plate.
This is about the closest example I can provide. It's a fillet weld, but still shows the grinder technique.
Attachment 1735887 In the foreground,, you see a series of fillets that were made without encountering arc blow. In the background, you see a weld made with serious arc blow. Arc blow is generally evidenced by huge dingleberries where the puddle was being tossed around by the magnetic field.
Attachment 1735889 This is a closeup of the weld in the back ground. You can see that it's been ground out,, and redone. Important to notice, is that I never laid the grinder flat on the vertical surface of the tubing, or the piece of 3/8 plate. You would see grinder marks like you have in your picture. All work was done with the very tip of the grinding wheel. There's still a bit of the defective weld showing,, but it's not going to be a huge ugly when it's painted.
If you haven't ground out any more than you showed in your pics.............try doing the rest with the tip of the wheel. It won't trash your surrounding steel.
Very good post by Sam above, and it summarizes my recommendation as well.
You don't need to cut the bumper back apart. Simply v out the existing bad areas and reweld.
As to your question of MIG versus arc with 7018, presuming a good bead, if you are an experienced welder like Oscar and others here you can achieve similar penetration and strength with a spray transfer MIG and the correct wire. However, comparing a short circuit MIG weld you will probably get a stronger weld with 7018 if you can lay down a good bead. For most folks though, SMAW is harder to master than MIG.
At either rate, you need to practice a lot until your beads are consistent and have proper penetration, and then retackle your bumper.
Don't give up. There is a wealth of knowledge on WW and you are asking a lot of the right questions. You just need to practice more, post pix of your practice welds and ask for feedback, and learn how to do strength and penetration tests on practice welds.
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It's really not about the strength of the weld at all. It's about the fact that it isn't right. Your a beginner and should strive to do your projects the correct way. This isn't a timely mistake and won't take long to make it right. You have many more welds to make in your life, start out right, learn the correct way. I would grind it out and run another bead over it and grind it to a nice finish. If you have to, I'd do it a third time, just to learn the right way.
Other option is to learn a little and move on to the next thing. But then again could fuss with this thing no one will ever see pretty much endlessly if he wanted.
Other option is to learn a little and move on to the next thing. But then again could fuss with this thing no one will ever see pretty much endlessly if he wanted.
I am learning.
Although the welding has come to a bit of a standstill because of work.
Here is a thought. Its commendable to want to learn the right way and welding is a fine hobby but I am betting you got the welder because you have something you want to do with it. Lots of people feel a grinder is a bad thing but good grinder makes for good finish work. I do a lot cant tell its been ground but no dross, spatter, smooth and ready for paint. Smooth and round edges and sharp corners, get rid of bbs and arc strikes, even clean slag and can blend paint with a common 4 1/2.
This is about the same as the gap thread. The guy gonna spray this with undercoat, those little pecker tracks not going to mean squat. Already has it finished off. It can be welded on the back a gob if it needs it.
I agree
Welding is a learning and takes time.
You cannt be a good welder out the gate.
It not glue you are melting metal the oxygen in air and water can make a poor weld. Then how clear the metal is too.
Dave
Originally Posted by Sberry
Here is a thought. Its commendable to want to learn the right way and welding is a fine hobby but I am betting you got the welder because you have something you want to do with it. Lots of people feel a grinder is a bad thing but good grinder makes for good finish work. I do a lot cant tell its been ground but no dross, spatter, smooth and ready for paint. Smooth and round edges and sharp corners, get rid of bbs and arc strikes, even clean slag and can blend paint with a common 4 1/2.
Do you not remember where you are?
People can argue for pages upon pages about minor points.
Look at the 7018 thread, the Miller 211 thread, speed of light, etc, etc
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Do you not remember where you are?
People can argue for pages upon pages about minor points.
Look at the 7018 thread, the Miller 211 thread, speed of light, etc, etc
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
This is what happens if I post here before my morning coffee. Sorry everyone.
He's been given lots of good advice and I hope he absorbs it all. This thread has gone as far as need be until he comes back with pics of his practice.
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Originally Posted by smithdoor
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