New To TIG Welding

[vortecpro]

Hi my name is Mike Jones 17 years old, recently I had to move to Texas to take care of my grandmother who has Alzheimers. Heres my problem, I build big block Chevy engines and my fabricator down the street where I used to live TIG welded my oil pump pickups to the oil pumps for me, silicon bronze, well where I live now there know one who is willing to do this procedure for me, and its a BIG problem. What I need to know is: What kind of TIG welder do I need to do this operation and have great results with out spending a fortune, preferable a new machine, my fabricator used a Miller 200 DX and got very good results. Thank you for your help!

[Kelvin]

Could you braze it with O/A? That's how I do most of my silicon bronze brazing.

Just something to consider if you don't want to spend all the money on a tig machine. O/A is useful for lots of other stuff, too -- cutting, heating. etc.You can weld with it too, and it's a lot like tig welding in how you do it...

Good luck with whatever way you end up going and welcome to the forum.

[vortecpro]

Thanks for your reply, I just want to do them as I have in the past, zero failures and want everything the same.

[M J D]

Oxy-fuel brazing has been done for years on the big and small block Chevy motors without failure. I'm not a fan of tig brazing on cast iron as it still requires pre heat to do it right, so flame is generally required anyways. I'm assuming new pump and used pickup tube so thorough cleaning and degreasing is required, particularly with tig.

[vortecpro]

Thank you for your reply, I'am sure your brazing is very nice! This picture is what I want, can someone please tell me what I need to buy new to get these results.

[Oscar]

For TIG brazing with silicon bronze on those size parts, I recommend:

• high-freq arc starting
• 150A more than enough if this is the only task at hand, but having more amperage output capability never hurt anything if you plan to TIG weld other larger parts
• foot pedal amperage control
• pre- and post-flow adjustability
• decent welding helmet (luckily they're not too costly now a days)
• Factor in an argon tank, which if you buy will usually run around $300-$400 for a 125 ft depending on where you actually go buy it.
• Alternatively you can look for a used one and actually call and speak with someone in your local welding store that deals with welding gases and ask them if they accept exchanges and if they have policies on customer-owned tanks that have other vendor's name on the neck-ring. No one here will be able to tell you what their policies are unless they just happen to have shopped there recently and are fully knowledgeable about how they run their business.

In the end, it will all come down to your actual realistic budget if you plan to buy something.

There's some people here in different parts of Texas; who knows you might have someone close to you with a TIG welder and silicon bronze at arm's length.

[vortecpro]

For TIG brazing with silicon bronze on those size parts, I recommend:

• high-freq arc starting
• 150A more than enough if this is the only task at hand, but having more amperage output capability never hurt anything if you plan to TIG weld other larger parts
• foot pedal amperage control
• pre- and post-flow adjustability
• decent welding helmet (luckily they're not too costly now a days)
• Factor in an argon tank, which if you buy will usually run around $300-$400 for a 125 ft depending on where you actually go buy it.
• Alternatively you can look for a used one and actually call and speak with someone in your local welding store that deals with welding gases and ask them if they accept exchanges and if they have policies on customer-owned tanks that have other vendor's name on the neck-ring. No one here will be able to tell you what their policies are unless they just happen to have shopped there recently and are fully knowledgeable about how they run their business.

In the end, it will all come down to your actual realistic budget if you plan to buy something.

There's some people here in different parts of Texas; who knows you might have someone close to you with a TIG welder and silicon bronze at arm's length.

Thanks for the info I could use. Can you comment on this setup?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11522607303...wAAOSw5SJf71rG

[Weld_]

Besides it being "seller refurbished" (which I am not a fan of) that machine would perfectly be suited to your needs.

If you want a cheaper option that would also work

https://www.harborfreight.com/protig...put-56254.html

If you are willing to spend a little extra money here is a much better option.

https://usaweld.com/collections/htp-...31917528875091

[scsmith42]

I used to own an automotive machine shop that specialized in high performance work. I’ve brazed hundreds of pumps with o/a and no failures.

I commend you for wanting to ensure there are no failures, but I’d advise you to be open to advice from others who have different, and in this case much more experience than you.

The ultimate strength of the weld is more dependent upon the skill of the welder as opposed to the process used.

If you do invest in a TIG, you might want to look at a machine that also has a cooler, high freq and ac as well as dc. That way you’ll be able to use it to weld aluminum as well as steel and cast brazing. A good used machine may be an option too.

What part of TX are you in and where did you move from? I used to live in Georgetown, Austin and a ranch on the edge of the Hill Country.

[vortecpro]

Besides it being "seller refurbished" (which I am not a fan of) that machine would perfectly be suited to your needs.

If you want a cheaper option that would also work

https://www.harborfreight.com/protig...put-56254.html

If you are willing to spend a little extra money here is a much better option.

https://usaweld.com/collections/htp-...31917528875091

Thanks for the information!

[vortecpro]

[QUOTE=scsmith42;8846861]I used to own an automotive machine shop that specialized in high performance work. I’ve brazed hundreds of pumps with o/a and no failures.

I commend you for wanting to ensure there are no failures, but I’d advise you to be open to advice from others who have different, and in this case much more experience than you.

The ultimate strength of the weld is more dependent upon the skill of the welder as opposed to the process used.

If you do invest in a TIG, you might want to look at a machine that also has a cooler, high freq and ac as well as dc. That way you’ll be able to use it to weld aluminum as well as steel and cast brazing. A good used machine may be an option too.

What part of TX are you in and where did you move from? I used to live in Georgetown, Austin and a ranch on the edge of the Hill Country.[/QUOTE"The ultimate strength of the weld is more dependent upon the skill of the welder as opposed to the process used"





Very much agreed. I have standards in my shop and I will not compromise, I know what works and what doesn't. I as well specialize in high end engine machining design and building and testing. My shop is located in Georgetown Tx in Oakcrest, off Wiliams Dr.

[scsmith42]

Great looking looking shop! I recognize most of your equipment; the only thing that I did now see was balancing equipment. My dyno was a Stuska. It predated the modern Superflow equipment that you have.

I used to work with a guy at Lopers Performance Center in Phoenix that was a real wizard with Quadrajet carbs. It is amazing how well that they could be tuned for just about any combination. It’s nice to see one on the BBC on your dyno.

By all means get a good quality TIG welder. You will find it to be a valuable tool for what you do. For 3/8” aluminun you will want at least 250A

I used to live in Oakcrest on Ridgecrest Drive. My folks built their house there around 1974.

[vortecpro]

Thanks, if you look close at SBC on the cradle you will see my Hines balancer, more pictures.

[vortecpro]

Was the Q-Jet wizard at Lopers from Nebraska? I just noticed "Solderer" below my screen name, yes I solder and have a drawer full of old school Ungar soldering equipment LOL

[scsmith42]

Lopers was in Phoenix and Ron was a local guy. This was long before you were born; I worked there in 1975!

I can make out what appears to be a balancer behind and across the aisle from your cylinder honing machine (to the left of your flow bench). Mine was a Stewart Warner.

Good for you for torquing the oil pump onto the rear main before checking the bore. I used to see around a .0002 or more distortion in the rear main comparing bores with versus without the pump installed.

[Oscar]

Thanks for the info I could use. Can you comment on this setup?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11522607303...wAAOSw5SJf71rG

I've never used that one so I can't really. Obviously Lincoln is well known and should work well, but I don't know if that machine has adjustable pre- and post-flow to control the usage of argon. I has pretty much everything you would need to get started, minus the shielding gas. Might want to google the manual for it and check up on what it has and what it doesn't.

Killer shop by the way!

[12V71]

Lopers was in Phoenix and Ron was a local guy. This was long before you were born; I worked there in 1975!

I can make out what appears to be a balancer behind and across the aisle from your cylinder honing machine (to the left of your flow bench). Mine was a Stewart Warner.

Good for you for torquing the oil pump onto the rear main before checking the bore. I used to see around a .0002 or more distortion in the rear main comparing bores with versus without the pump installed.

You know, A good Q-jet or a Holley spread bore was the stuff on many an engine. My last carbed project was a 383 stroker in a '79 GMC shortbox 4X4 with a 4speed. The crank and Flywheel were balanced together and the spreadbore Holley was done by a friend of mine. From an idle in 3rd gear that thing could stuff you into the seat.

[geezer]

For 17, this young man is obviously highly skilled coupled with uncommon ambition. I suspect he will reach his TIG goals with some patience and skilled tutoring. I wish you well young man.

BTW, IMHO the red machine you citied should prove more than ample for entry level: however, believe I'll cast my vote for O/A. But TIG is always a handy option. Especially if you start building headers.

Young folks like this gives me hope on the next generation.