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Thread: Safely test

  1. #1
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    Safely test

    So I got one of those older 165a Chicago tig/stick combinations with hf start. No pedal, but I found a titanium pedal with the same connector. As I'm new to tig, and don't have a gas bottle yet, what's the safe procedure to test and make sure both the machine and the pedal are working on their own and correctly with each other? I have stick welded with the machine already.

  2. #2
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    Re: Safely test

    Quote Originally Posted by geetarmanpete View Post
    So I got one of those older 165a Chicago tig/stick combinations with hf start. No pedal, but I found a titanium pedal with the same connector. As I'm new to tig, and don't have a gas bottle yet, what's the safe procedure to test and make sure both the machine and the pedal are working on their own and correctly with each other? I have stick welded with the machine already.
    If you are serious about tig get the bottle, hose, and regulator. Then when hooked up properly you will find out if the pedal is working properly. Really there are too many variables involved to try a work around. Now just for giggles, the remote contactor in the pedal is a micro-switch. You can test that with a meter. The potentiometer goes from full resistance to open(or zero resistance). What full resistance is for those pedals is and whether they are a match I have no clue. Only way I know to tell is under an arc.
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
    MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.

  3. #3
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    Re: Safely test

    Appreciate the input, I was hoping to have the electronic end squared away beforehand. My local shop quoted me a bottle lease price that's far less than I was expecting to spend, so I'll probably have the gas next week or so... I'd hate to have to sit an extra week after that waiting on a 79 cent capacitor lol!

  4. #4
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    Re: Safely test

    Quote Originally Posted by geetarmanpete View Post
    So I got one of those older 165a Chicago tig/stick combinations with hf start. No pedal, but I found a titanium pedal with the same connector. As I'm new to tig, and don't have a gas bottle yet, what's the safe procedure to test and make sure both the machine and the pedal are working on their own and correctly with each other? I have stick welded with the machine already.
    Is the TIG torch attached to the output terminals now? Does the machine have separate controls for whether HF goes on or not? If it does, you can hook up the cable with stinger, then turn the HF off, set the controls so the pedal controls both on-off and amperage, and using proper precautions (hood, gloves, etc.) see if the pedal works right while stick welding; if it turns the arc on and off and controls the burn rate.

    Assuming the cables are reasonably intact, the stinger properly insulated, you could also set the current to the lowest value, clamp the stinger in a (insulated) fixture so its rod sits 1/8-1/4" from a work piece; turn the HF switch on and see if the spark jumps the gap when the pedal is depressed just enough to start an arc. Some people might hold the stinger, but I won't advise that due to the theoretical possibility of something touching where it shouldn't and the HF going through the body during the test.
    Is the TIG torch air-cooled? In either case, the conductor to the torch can be checked for continuity from the connector to the collet holder with a VOM set for resistance. Usually a water-cooled torch will show signs of the cable having overheated if the coolant wasn't running while power was on.

  5. #5
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    Re: Safely test

    Will try later, but no on the separate high frequency part. Haven't had any power to it when looking at wiring, nervous due to the several functions that should take place on depressing pedal, HF gas valve and lead voltage?

  6. #6
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    Re: Safely test

    foot pedals are pretty simple really three wires for the variable resister, and two wires for the contactor switch. If you have the wrong value for the variable resister it will have some effect on the output, but its not likely to blow anything up. More likely you won't get full output or you will only get full output. You usually see differences in the value of the variable resister between brands (some brands use a 10K ohm resister, and others a 22K ohm resister) but in general, within the same brand they stay fairly consistent. See if you can find a schematic for the original foot pedal and compare the stated value to what's in the new foot pedal.
    Miller Multimatic 255

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  8. #7
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    Re: Safely test

    First try, had the amps running in reverse, hoping that is the easy fix. Had no high frequency and it wouldn't strike an arc. Still haven't opened things back up to try to determine the next move...

  9. #8
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    Re: Safely test

    If only I could have found a schematic fir that pedal! Lol, half the reason I wanted this thread in the electric section was for the next guy.

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