Miller dialarc hf-p

[Reddeer wrangler]

Picked up a miller hf—p a couple years ago and just got a cart made for it and everything installed correctly, except for the water cooler it might need fixed but I was told u don’t have to use it if your just welding thin steel, I am having an issue concerning when I try welding, it’s my first
Time using a tig and when it’s on and I begin to press the foot pedal with the filler rod and the tigo hand and ground is connected and gas is on and everything is in place to best off
My knowledge, but it’s still not trying to arc even if I touch the ground, any info would help me out so much and would be great thanks

[Louie1961]

#1 it is probably a good thing it won't weld. Everytime I have welded with the water cooler turned off I have burned up my torch and needed to repair or replace it. I think you were given bad advice/instructions regarding when to use the water cooler. I would say anytime you are TIG welding, you need the water cooler on.

when it’s on and I begin to press the foot pedal with the filler rod and the tigo hand and ground is connected and gas is on and everything is in place to best off
My knowledge, but it’s still not trying to arc even if I touch the ground, any info would help me out so much and would be great thanks

Not trying to be a jerk, but this sentence is hard to understand. If I am understanding correctly you have no current when you try to weld? If that's the case, does the fan in the machine come on when you turn the welder on? Will it stick weld and just not TIG weld? Can you send a picture of how you have the switches, dials and other controls set? Also post a picture of how the foot pedal is connected to the machine. Are both plugs for the foot pedal plugged in? Have you tried to reset the circuit breaker on the machine (not the one in your electrical panel)

[ccawgc]

Water cooled torches have bad habit of breaking the power cable conductor inside the nose. Connect work clamp to metal table. drag tungsten on table with foot control pressed. If torch is good and welder has output it will spark. if power cable is open no spark. Try welding with a set of stick leads. If you can weld with the stick leads then most of the welder is ok. If the HF is good and power cable not pulled to far apart it might still spark from tungsten to table. with the gas flowing.
TIG torch connects to the torch terminal, work clamp to work terminal.
using the wrong terminals will change the polarity is DC and the balance in AC. Tungsten will over heat and melt.

[John T]

Water cooled torches have bad habit of breaking the power cable conductor inside the nose..

When that happens (due to no coolant flow)
It usually burns through the rubber hose and lets off a spectacular smokefest.

It would be obvious.

[William McCormick]

When that happens (due to no coolant flow)
It usually burns through the rubber hose and lets off a spectacular smokefest.

It would be obvious.

Sometimes the conductor will be broken, and you will get some high frequency but no current.

Sincerely,

William McCormick

[Reddeer wrangler]

Sorry I haven’t gotten back to you all sooner, I appreciate all the responses and I am going to try a few things here, the one thing I noticed is the actuator I believe for the water cooled side, isn’t working, electrical tab is broken in pic, and I had water cooler filled up and plugged in front just didn’t think it worked when I tried everything. And I could touch end of torch on the ground directly and it wouldn’t arc.


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[Reddeer wrangler]

I really wanted to know if just everything was hooked up right, now ya said I have to have. Water cooler easy to diagnose if it’s working or not. Thanks you


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[Reddeer wrangler]

And the stick leads that came with it had the ends cut, so I need to get replacement plugs for stick


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[Oldiron2]

I really wanted to know if just everything was hooked up right, now ya said I have to have. Water cooler easy to diagnose if it’s working or not. Thanks you


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It helps to proofread what you type before submitting; the second part of the highlighted sentence is a bit confusing.

If you had an air-cooled torch, you could use it without the cooler hooked up. With a water-cooled torch, the power cable is surrounded by water flowing inside a coolant hose and without water, the cable will overheat (and oxidize) while destroying the outer hose too. I suggest you do all the repairs and get everything working before doing any welding attempts.

That said, it appears you have both Amperage and Contactor Control switches in the "standard" position, rather than in "Remote" which is needed for the foot pedal to work. The HF may only work (by design) when in Remote (I don't know that unit, so could be wrong). I also can't see what the amperage setting is on the dial; typically, the foot pedal amperage control gives 0 to 100% of what the dial setting is. If the dial reads 60% and the pedal is half way depressed, output will be 30% of machine capacity.

Lastly, the machine is now set on Reverse polarity. That will burn the tungsten up at any reasonable amp settings; you need Straight polarity.

I suggest you either borrow a good, 'modern' book on welding from the library, or find and buy a/some good one(s) online and study them so you understand all of these basic facts. It will save money, time and trouble in the long run.

[Reddeer wrangler]

It helps to proofread what you type before submitting; the second part of the highlighted sentence is a bit confusing.

If you had an air-cooled torch, you could use it without the cooler hooked up. With a water-cooled torch, the power cable is surrounded by water flowing inside a coolant hose and without water, the cable will overheat (and oxidize) while destroying the outer hose too. I suggest you do all the repairs and get everything working before doing any welding attempts.

That said, it appears you have both Amperage and Contactor Control switches in the "standard" position, rather than in "Remote" which is needed for the foot pedal to work. The HF may only work (by design) when in Remote (I don't know that unit, so could be wrong). I also can't see what the amperage setting is on the dial; typically, the foot pedal amperage control gives 0 to 100% of what the dial setting is. If the dial reads 60% and the pedal is half way depressed, output will be 30% of machine capacity.

Lastly, the machine is now set on Reverse polarity. That will burn the tungsten up at any reasonable amp settings; you need Straight polarity.

I suggest you either borrow a good, 'modern' book on welding from the library, or find and buy a/some good one(s) online and study them so you understand all of these basic facts. It will save money, time and trouble in the long run.

Thank you very much for input and advice.


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