Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Miller dialarc hf-p

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Miller dialarc hf-p

    Picked up a miller hfóp a couple years ago and just got a cart made for it and everything installed correctly, except for the water cooler it might need fixed but I was told u donít have to use it if your just welding thin steel, I am having an issue concerning when I try welding, itís my first
    Time using a tig and when itís on and I begin to press the foot pedal with the filler rod and the tigo hand and ground is connected and gas is on and everything is in place to best off
    My knowledge, but itís still not trying to arc even if I touch the ground, any info would help me out so much and would be great thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    4,968
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    #1 it is probably a good thing it won't weld. Everytime I have welded with the water cooler turned off I have burned up my torch and needed to repair or replace it. I think you were given bad advice/instructions regarding when to use the water cooler. I would say anytime you are TIG welding, you need the water cooler on.

    when it’s on and I begin to press the foot pedal with the filler rod and the tigo hand and ground is connected and gas is on and everything is in place to best off
    My knowledge, but it’s still not trying to arc even if I touch the ground, any info would help me out so much and would be great thanks
    Not trying to be a jerk, but this sentence is hard to understand. If I am understanding correctly you have no current when you try to weld? If that's the case, does the fan in the machine come on when you turn the welder on? Will it stick weld and just not TIG weld? Can you send a picture of how you have the switches, dials and other controls set? Also post a picture of how the foot pedal is connected to the machine. Are both plugs for the foot pedal plugged in? Have you tried to reset the circuit breaker on the machine (not the one in your electrical panel)
    Miller Multimatic 255

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Ceres, California
    Posts
    4,024
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Water cooled torches have bad habit of breaking the power cable conductor inside the nose. Connect work clamp to metal table. drag tungsten on table with foot control pressed. If torch is good and welder has output it will spark. if power cable is open no spark. Try welding with a set of stick leads. If you can weld with the stick leads then most of the welder is ok. If the HF is good and power cable not pulled to far apart it might still spark from tungsten to table. with the gas flowing.
    TIG torch connects to the torch terminal, work clamp to work terminal.
    using the wrong terminals will change the polarity is DC and the balance in AC. Tungsten will over heat and melt.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Under a Rock
    Posts
    6,764
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Quote Originally Posted by ccawgc View Post
    Water cooled torches have bad habit of breaking the power cable conductor inside the nose..
    When that happens (due to no coolant flow)
    It usually burns through the rubber hose and lets off a spectacular smokefest.

    It would be obvious.
    Miller 211
    Hypertherm PM 45
    1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
    HTP 221


    True Wisdom only comes from Pain.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,285
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Quote Originally Posted by John T View Post
    When that happens (due to no coolant flow)
    It usually burns through the rubber hose and lets off a spectacular smokefest.

    It would be obvious.
    Sometimes the conductor will be broken, and you will get some high frequency but no current.

    Sincerely,

    William McCormick
    If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Name:  IMG_0221.jpg
Views: 107
Size:  167.1 KB
    Name:  IMG_0222.jpg
Views: 96
Size:  204.5 KB
    Name:  IMG_0223.jpg
Views: 93
Size:  483.8 KB
    Name:  IMG_0224.jpg
Views: 89
Size:  193.8 KB
    Name:  IMG_0225.jpg
Views: 81
Size:  339.8 KB
    Sorry I havenít gotten back to you all sooner, I appreciate all the responses and I am going to try a few things here, the one thing I noticed is the actuator I believe for the water cooled side, isnít working, electrical tab is broken in pic, and I had water cooler filled up and plugged in front just didnít think it worked when I tried everything. And I could touch end of torch on the ground directly and it wouldnít arc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    I really wanted to know if just everything was hooked up right, now ya said I have to have. Water cooler easy to diagnose if itís working or not. Thanks you


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    And the stick leads that came with it had the ends cut, so I need to get replacement plugs for stick


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Central California
    Posts
    4,202
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Quote Originally Posted by Reddeer wrangler View Post
    I really wanted to know if just everything was hooked up right, now ya said I have to have. Water cooler easy to diagnose if it’s working or not. Thanks you


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It helps to proofread what you type before submitting; the second part of the highlighted sentence is a bit confusing.

    If you had an air-cooled torch, you could use it without the cooler hooked up. With a water-cooled torch, the power cable is surrounded by water flowing inside a coolant hose and without water, the cable will overheat (and oxidize) while destroying the outer hose too. I suggest you do all the repairs and get everything working before doing any welding attempts.

    That said, it appears you have both Amperage and Contactor Control switches in the "standard" position, rather than in "Remote" which is needed for the foot pedal to work. The HF may only work (by design) when in Remote (I don't know that unit, so could be wrong). I also can't see what the amperage setting is on the dial; typically, the foot pedal amperage control gives 0 to 100% of what the dial setting is. If the dial reads 60% and the pedal is half way depressed, output will be 30% of machine capacity.

    Lastly, the machine is now set on Reverse polarity. That will burn the tungsten up at any reasonable amp settings; you need Straight polarity.

    I suggest you either borrow a good, 'modern' book on welding from the library, or find and buy a/some good one(s) online and study them so you understand all of these basic facts. It will save money, time and trouble in the long run.

  10. Likes Reddeer wrangler liked this post
  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Miller dialarc hf-p

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldiron2 View Post
    It helps to proofread what you type before submitting; the second part of the highlighted sentence is a bit confusing.

    If you had an air-cooled torch, you could use it without the cooler hooked up. With a water-cooled torch, the power cable is surrounded by water flowing inside a coolant hose and without water, the cable will overheat (and oxidize) while destroying the outer hose too. I suggest you do all the repairs and get everything working before doing any welding attempts.

    That said, it appears you have both Amperage and Contactor Control switches in the "standard" position, rather than in "Remote" which is needed for the foot pedal to work. The HF may only work (by design) when in Remote (I don't know that unit, so could be wrong). I also can't see what the amperage setting is on the dial; typically, the foot pedal amperage control gives 0 to 100% of what the dial setting is. If the dial reads 60% and the pedal is half way depressed, output will be 30% of machine capacity.

    Lastly, the machine is now set on Reverse polarity. That will burn the tungsten up at any reasonable amp settings; you need Straight polarity.

    I suggest you either borrow a good, 'modern' book on welding from the library, or find and buy a/some good one(s) online and study them so you understand all of these basic facts. It will save money, time and trouble in the long run.
    Thank you very much for input and advice.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 1,656,110,669.05972 seconds with 13 queries