Stainless Rods for 304 Near Fresh Water?

[52 Ford]

I'm making a transom mount for a trolling motor for a kayak. All 304 stainless. 1/4" plate bolted to the hull and the rest is 1/8". I welded it out with Hobart 312 rods because it's what I had.

I only have 1 rod left, so i need to go buy more stainless rods. What should I get?

These are very low stress joints. Originally, I was going to make it out of 6061 and use join all of it with solid rivets.

I just need something that I can weld 304 with that won't corrode too bad in fresh water.

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[smithdoor]

Stainless 304 does great job in fresh water 💧 .
If salt water you need to look up the correct stainless.

Dave

I'm making a transom mount for a trolling motor for a kayak. All 304 stainless. 1/4" plate bolted to the hull and the rest is 1/8". I welded it out with Hobart 312 rods because it's what I had.

I only have 1 rod left, so i need to go buy more stainless rods. What should I get?

These are very low stress joints. Originally, I was going to make it out of 6061 and use join all of it with solid rivets.

I just need something that I can weld 304 with that won't corrode too bad in fresh water.

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[davec]

308 rods are standard for welding 304 SS.

[Oldiron2]

I'm making a transom mount for a trolling motor for a kayak. All 304 stainless. 1/4" plate bolted to the hull and the rest is 1/8". I welded it out with Hobart 312 rods because it's what I had.

I only have 1 rod left, so i need to go buy more stainless rods. What should I get?

These are very low stress joints. Originally, I was going to make it out of 6061 and use join all of it with solid rivets.

I just need something that I can weld 304 with that won't corrode too bad in fresh water.

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I don't think your fresh water conditions will promote significant corrosion, even if using plain 308 filler, but if worried, you can get E308L-16 rods, or go with a stabilized type like 321 or 347. Not sure what the difference in cost is. I inherited a small pack of 347 and used a few rods from it a few weeks ago while welding some rods on small brackets; FWIW, the slag seemed harder, tougher, than any I'd previously seen.

I just did some searching and found a Lincoln Compatibility chart in.pdf form that you might want to save; also has detailed discussions about stainless steels and welds:

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/asse...ure/c64000.pdf

[52 Ford]

Gotcha. 308 is WAY cheaper than the 312's that I was burning! They were in one of those 1lb packs. I only bought them because I only needed a like half a rod when I bought them. Something like $5 PER ROD!!!

Any preferred brand?

[52 Ford]

I don't think your fresh water conditions will promote significant corrosion, even if using plain 308 filler, but if worried, you can get E308L-16 rods, or go with a stabilized type like 321 or 347. Not sure what the difference in cost is. I inherited a small pack of 347 and used a few rods from it a few weeks ago while welding some rods on small brackets; FWIW, the slag seemed harder, tougher, than any I'd previously seen.

I just did some searching and found a Lincoln Compatibility chart in.pdf form that you might want to save; also has detailed discussions about stainless steels and welds:

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/asse...ure/c64000.pdf

I downloaded that PDF. Thanks!!

I'm going to epoxy coat most of it. The parts that aren't getting epoxy coated are the wear surfaces in the hinge for the motor. I have two plates mounted to the transom, those are welded to a base plate that bolts to the hull, and a single plate between them that the actual motor mounts to. That plate pivots to let the motor come out of the water.

I plan on having UHMW or PTFE based tape lining the insides of the surfaces that that motor mount rubs against. Hopefully, even if I do get a build up of corrosion, it'll pivot smoothly.

I mean, it's a fairly heavy trolling motor. A 40 or 45 pound thrust Minn Kota, so the weigh will overcome any drag. The distance from the pivot point to the locking pin (think of a 1/4 of a circle, a 90 degree arc. Center of the arc is the pivot pin) is about 3-1/2".... maybe it was 3"... I need to check the drawing. I sort of winged it when I fabbed it up. Was working with odd sized stock.

[Kelvin]

I'm going to epoxy coat most of it. .

Don't forget to paint the epoxy afterwards, or use an epoxy with a UV blocker, or put something into the epoxy (powdered aluminum or graphite or whatever) to block the UV, or it won't last long. (Or use polyester resin, which is almost immune to UV. And if you use polyester, don't forget to put wax into it so the surface doesn't remain tacky forever...)

Here in saltwater, we use 316.

[52 Ford]

Don't forget to paint the epoxy afterwards, or use an epoxy with a UV blocker, or put something into the epoxy (powdered aluminum or graphite or whatever) to block the UV, or it won't last long. (Or use polyester resin, which is almost immune to UV. And if you use polyester, don't forget to put wax into it so the surface doesn't remain tacky forever...)

Here in saltwater, we use 316.

I was going to use 316SS, but I got the 304 for free, and since it's fresh water I figure it's good enough. Saved me a couple hundred dollars anyway.

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[Weld_]

304 is a good choice especially when it's free. 312 is excellent for a lot of different applications including what you did. If you purchase it in bulk (10lb) for example it is significantly cheaper. Harris makes good stainless wire. IMHO.

[smithdoor]

304 is a good choice for fresh water.

Dave

I was going to use 316SS, but I got the 304 for free, and since it's fresh water I figure it's good enough. Saved me a couple hundred dollars anyway.

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