Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, thus making a triangle
Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, thus making a triangle
Are we to assume the winch is electric and he could use cables w/ QD couplings to hook them to the truck's electrical system? Then, could the winch have a remote control cable so he could stand off to the side where he could see the animal well?
If so, I'd consider mounting the winch on the front frame, mounting a pulley on top the front wall, and reinforcing the wall to accommodate the (mainly) downward force. Let the rearward force be against the framework that was designed for it. The winch could even be removable, if secure storage for the trailer weren't always available. I'd also make a keeper of some kind to prevent the cable from jumping out of the pulley groove during use.
Does he have the necessary clearance to get into the Capitol? I understand there are a few corpses there.
How about mounting the winch at the bottom outside of the dump box and mount a rigid 4" or 6" snatch block on the top. You rig up a chain with a chain hook at the top along with a chain binder to take the pull of the winch. Then put jumper cable connectors or welder lead connectors with them connected so you maintain polarity between pump batt and the winch then disconnect them and the chain to dump. Just be sure you have a deep cycle batt so it can do both jobs as needed tho I'm sure there will be a time period between loading the animal and dumping it so the vehicle charge wire should maintain enough charge.
Ol' Stonebreaker
"Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"
Hobart G-213 portable
Miller 175 mig
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Victor O/A setup
Makita chop saw
I would weld it to the actual frame like I did with this box. That front of the dump box is not that strong and may bend/bow. Anchor the crap outa it to the frame…and the wiring will be simpler too. That cross member is to rest the front bucket of my tractor. I wanted it anchored directly to the frame so that if there was ever a problem with the moving dump part of the trailer (like for some reason it started to go up!) or if the D ring tie downs failed that the load would be secure still.
Last edited by Tarmstrong; 04-20-2022 at 09:09 PM.
Whichever way you decide, I would mount the winch to a tube that would slide into a trailer hitch tube. That way he could lock up his winch or use it on his truck as well.
How about mounting the winch at the bottom outside of the dump box and mount a rigid 4" or 6" snatch block on the top. You rig up a chain with a chain hook at the top along with a chain binder to take the pull of the winch. Then put jumper cable connectors or welder lead connectors with them connected so you maintain polarity between pump batt and the winch then disconnect them and the chain to dump. Just be sure you have a deep cycle batt so it can do both jobs as needed tho I'm sure there will be a time period between loading the animal and dumping it so the vehicle charge wire should maintain enough charge.
I too like this idea.
That was one of my original idea but got side tracked. I will have to find ridged snatch blocks. I like how the forces will be distributed. Do you think my original 2 drawings will work for the snatch blocks or build a full frame as was suggested?
I like using channel it is easy to mount the winch.
The channel needs to be size to winch.
Dave
Originally Posted by Reebz
Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, thus making a triangle
I think I'd just weld a full width piece of rectangular tubing to the top of the box at the front, and mount it there. If it's mounted to the box, it's in a good position to use even if the box is tilted up. Your fairlead on the winch would handle a carcass that's not lined up with the winch.
I'm surprised that it's a good business. We just take a dead one out across the creek, and let the coyotes dispose of the animal. BTW.......I think it's a wive's tale that coyotes take calves. We've never lost a calf to any coyotes. Only losses we suffer is when one gets its neck broken at the hay feeder when adult cows butt it, or shove against it. Sometimes a cow will trap a calf in a corner in the feed pen, and try to hurt it. Cows ain't very nice animals. They also have a very definite pecking order.
This will also increase the pulling power of the winch.
How do you figure that. It's still only a 1 part line.
Ol' Stonebreaker
"Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"
Hobart G-213 portable
Miller 175 mig
Miller thunderbolt ac/dc stick
Victor O/A setup
Makita chop saw
Alaska Weldshop RIP, installed the winch on one corner of the box, installed an anchor on the other. He then used a snatch block. Double line pull gives more pull to the winch & (surprisingly) not half speed. Winch motor runs faster under less load.
This arrangement needs a swivel mount, as angle changes as it pulls. Consider chaining the winch. Put it inside a dry, locked tool box when not in use.
An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
A piece of 3x5 11ga rectangular tubing welded flush with the top of the box, and inside the box, will hold the weight. The sidewall of the box forms a very strong web to resist a pulling load from front of trailer to back of trailer. A cow can weigh around 1200#. It's a dead load, not rolling load.........so it's a bit more than 1200#
Let's call the load 1800#. A 6' 11ga 3x5, center point loaded beam, will take the load with a stress load of 12Ksi.......which is 1/3 the yield strength of the tubing. If you have the appropriate software, plug the numbers in.
You gotta remember.............the sides of that trailer are some really bigazz beams. They will resist a lot of force in either axis.
If 11ga makes you feel a bit queazy, you can up it to 3/16
You can even scab the sidewall around where the beam welds on to spread the force over a larger area
This is what I'm thinking. Plus a piece on the onside from side to side with a gusset and plates to the side.
Farmersammm think 2x2 1/4 wall will work?
Snatch block pully in the middle. The winch will be bolted to a 5/8 plate or C Channel
This is what I'm thinking. Plus a piece on the onside from side to side with a gusset and plates to the side.
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Snatch block pully in the middle. The winch will be bolted to a 5/8 plate or C Channel
As I said back in Post 5:
If so, I'd consider mounting the winch on the front frame, mounting a pulley on top the front wall, and reinforcing the wall to accommodate the (mainly) downward force. Let the rearward force be against the framework that was designed for it. The winch could even be removable, if secure storage for the trailer weren't always available. I'd also make a keeper of some kind to prevent the cable from jumping out of the pulley groove during use.
I'd probably make a pulley looking something like this, it being fixed to the top cross member, that being perhaps a 2 x 4 lying flat. I'd want wider than 2 x 2 and probably 3/16" thick.
Since the downward force is in compression of the wall, center supports going from the bed to the cross member, probably through the existing top sheetmetal piece (but maybe replacing it instead with the new cross member would be easier) and similar connections at the sides so the cross member would be tied directly to the side posts. Maybe even design the cross member with a cutout the pulley fits into. The uprights could be on both sides of the current center stiffener, perhaps replace it or??? Easier to see what you have if there, maybe even better once doing it.
I'd probably make a pulley looking something like this, it being fixed to the top cross member, that being perhaps a 2 x 4 lying flat. I'd want wider than 2 x 2 and probably 3/16" thick.
Since the downward force is in compression of the wall, center supports going from the bed to the cross member, probably through the existing top sheetmetal piece (but maybe replacing it instead with the new cross member would be easier) and similar connections at the sides so the cross member would be tied directly to the side posts. Maybe even design the cross member with a cutout the pulley fits into. The uprights could be on both sides of the current center stiffener, perhaps replace it or??? Easier to see what you have if there, maybe even better once doing it.
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I see I made a typo. It will have 2x2 1/4 wall on the inside of the bed as well as on the outside. I left out I will have a vertical brace on the in side as well to avoid compressional forces. That is the style pulley I will buy or make. He has old snatch blocks to work with.
I imagine TWO 2x2 1/4 wall to be stout enough
thus making a triangle
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Originally Posted by Reebz
