Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Skidsteer woodsplitter

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Hi,
    I am trying to repair a (homemade by a friend ) woodsplitter that keeps breaking. It mounts on a skidsteer.
    The hydraulic ram keeps ripping everything apart, I think there may be a pressure valve somewhere on the machine, I am going to lower the pressure.
    So the attachment plate is somewhat torn, the knives (previously wedges) twist and tear out.
    Maybe a wedge or knife on the ram side (vs fixed at the end) will help?
    With a big block fixed at the end?
    The I beam itself also has torn out and repaired once as pictured.
    Any advice is appreciated,
    Thanks


    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Under a Rock
    Posts
    6,800
    Post Thanks / Like

    Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Itís hard to tell whatís going on without the complete picture of the set up.

    But from what I see there are multiple problems
    Including, insufficient poor quality Welding/Poor/inferior design such as the 1/8Ē inch steel that got torn apart like a piece of cardboard.

    I would say scrap the whole thing and start over
    Or just go with a traditional wood splitter.

    I like the convenience of the skid steer attachment but other than that it looks like garbage.
    Miller 211
    Hypertherm PM 45
    1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
    HTP 221


    True Wisdom only comes from Pain.

  3. Likes 12V71 liked this post
  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Central Wa. state
    Posts
    6,224
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Yeah, not dog piling here, but most all the materials are too light and the welds definitely need more heat.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Near Roanoke, VA
    Posts
    901
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    In my opinion,, you are just proving Archimedes principle of leverage,,



    The pusher and the wedge are acting as "levers",, the shape of the wedge forces the end tip of the wedge to do all the work.

    The wedge, and pusher are just WAY too long.

    If you reduce the height of the wedge, and the pusher by 1/2,, the splitter will be 90% more successful.

    Oh, yea, get rid of the tip extension on the wedge,, the wedge MUST be straight..

    I built a splitter one time that used an axe head as the wedge. No amount of twisted wood could damage the splitter.
    The splitter only had a 3" tall beam, but, that was plenty, because the wedge was so short.

  6. Likes burtonbc1400 liked this post
  7. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by John T View Post
    Itís hard to tell whatís going on without the complete picture of the set up.

    But from what I see there are multiple problems
    Including, insufficient poor quality Welding/Poor/inferior design such as the 1/8Ē inch steel that got torn apart like a piece of cardboard.

    I would say scrap the whole thing and start over
    Or just go with a traditional wood splitter.

    I like the convenience of the skid steer attachment but other than that it looks like garbage.
    Thanks, I have a traditional wood splitter,
    If you were rebuilding it what specific changes would you make

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  8. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Georgetown, Texas
    Posts
    2,073
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Does it use the center ram of the skid steer as the splitting power? Or does it have it's on cylinder?

  9. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob View Post
    Does it use the center ram of the skid steer as the splitting power? Or does it have it's on cylinder?
    It has it's own ram and hoses that connect to the skidsteer auxiliary hydraulic control

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  10. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by SweetMK View Post
    In my opinion,, you are just proving Archimedes principle of leverage,,



    The pusher and the wedge are acting as "levers",, the shape of the wedge forces the end tip of the wedge to do all the work.

    The wedge, and pusher are just WAY too long.

    If you reduce the height of the wedge, and the pusher by 1/2,, the splitter will be 90% more successful.

    Oh, yea, get rid of the tip extension on the wedge,, the wedge MUST be straight..

    I built a splitter one time that used an axe head as the wedge. No amount of twisted wood could damage the splitter.
    The splitter only had a 3" tall beam, but, that was plenty, because the wedge was so short.
    Thanks for your advice.
    I see what you mean, the knife is 12", too tall. I will make it shorter.

    I'm going to remake the attachment plate with thicker plate, and gusset it.
    I will put bracing inside the I beam.

    Do you think switching the splitter to the moving part would make any difference?



    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  11. #9
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    7,092
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    I like the splitter to the back on ours because any hard "popping" logs will fly away from me at the valve instead of towards me... I'm not sure where your valve would be located but I'm assuming close to where you are standing. I think you need to think seriously about starting with a bigger stronger beam and working accordingly. I've run with with tractor hydraulics for around 30 yrs, wore out 2 cylinders and 3 valves and I've never broke a wedge, mount or push block.
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
    Les

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wanganui, New Zealand
    Posts
    251
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Besides what has already been mentioned. Make sure the cylinder doesn’t have too much travel and is actually hitting the part it’s tearing off.

    I don’t know much about log splitters but I can’t imagine you need full cylinder travel.
    Gear: Esab power compact 205 with tbi industries torch
    BOC Smootharc 185dc tig
    Miller Syncrowave 350LX

  13. #11
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    7,092
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    If you are going to run off a tractor/skid steer hydraulics it needs to be built. Look at 50 ton splitters and presses and consider that a bare minimum. I think I have around an inch clearance between the block and the wedge at the end of the stroke. This one is butt ugly and built out of junk, but take a look at the thickness. Those spare parts came off of heavy duty deep tillers and similar equipment, it's not box store black iron it's strong, thick steel. My wedge is also almost a foot tall, but it's anchored into the beam with axle shaft material, not just surface welds (and yes, some of the old welds are ugly as sin, but they're still holding after 25 plus yrs of abuse). It's split some nasty twisted up big old maple. I choose to use a thick walled 3x5 square beam that isn't the norm, but think heavy duty and strong. Your design needs to put the pressure against solid steel, not the welding.
    Name:  IMG_9111.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  253.5 KB
    Name:  IMG_9114.jpg
Views: 166
Size:  155.9 KB
    Name:  IMG_9115.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  270.7 KB
    Name:  IMG_9120.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  133.0 KB
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
    Les

  14. Likes albrightree liked this post
  15. #12
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    74
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Everything in the photos indicates that the material used to fabricate this splitter is way to light and that the welder lacks experience or knowledge of what constitutes an acceptable weld. This may sound harsh but the results speak for themselves. A good flat position fillet weld should not be hard but if one or the other legs of the fillet weld lacks fusion to the base metal the weld needs to be ground out and rewelded. The lack of fusion and the slag inclusions are huge red flags. Where the base of cutting wedge welds to the beam is where it want to tear out and needs to be reinforced the whole base of the cutting wedge should be beveled on both side and welded to something like a 1/2-inch fillet stiffeners should be welded into the web and flange of the beam beneath the front and of the cutting wedge. The top flange of beam could be reinforced with a plate but it is too thin. The ram cylinder may have an adjustable pressure relief but it is the force it takes to split the log that determines how much load there is on the welds. Here you have design that can't handle the working load because the material is too thin compounded by weld failure.

  16. Likes whtbaron liked this post
  17. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    If you are going to run off a tractor/skid steer hydraulics it needs to be built. Look at 50 ton splitters and presses and consider that a bare minimum. I think I have around an inch clearance between the block and the wedge at the end of the stroke. This one is butt ugly and built out of junk, but take a look at the thickness. Those spare parts came off of heavy duty deep tillers and similar equipment, it's not box store black iron it's strong, thick steel. My wedge is also almost a foot tall, but it's anchored into the beam with axle shaft material, not just surface welds (and yes, some of the old welds are ugly as sin, but they're still holding after 25 plus yrs of abuse). It's split some nasty twisted up big old maple. I choose to use a thick walled 3x5 square beam that isn't the norm, but think heavy duty and strong. Your design needs to put the pressure against solid steel, not the welding.
    Name:  IMG_9111.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  253.5 KB
    Name:  IMG_9114.jpg
Views: 166
Size:  155.9 KB
    Name:  IMG_9115.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  270.7 KB
    Name:  IMG_9120.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  133.0 KB
    Thanks this is helpful

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  18. Likes whtbaron liked this post
  19. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Big Lake/Monticello MN
    Posts
    15,080
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    If you are going to run off a tractor/skid steer hydraulics it needs to be built. Look at 50 ton splitters and presses and consider that a bare minimum. I think I have around an inch clearance between the block and the wedge at the end of the stroke. This one is butt ugly and built out of junk, but take a look at the thickness. Those spare parts came off of heavy duty deep tillers and similar equipment, it's not box store black iron it's strong, thick steel. My wedge is also almost a foot tall, but it's anchored into the beam with axle shaft material, not just surface welds (and yes, some of the old welds are ugly as sin, but they're still holding after 25 plus yrs of abuse). It's split some nasty twisted up big old maple. I choose to use a thick walled 3x5 square beam that isn't the norm, but think heavy duty and strong. Your design needs to put the pressure against solid steel, not the welding.

    Name:  IMG_9114.jpg
Views: 166
Size:  155.9 KB
    Name:  IMG_9115.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  270.7 KB
    Welds don't look like Instagram - that'll never work
    Dave J.

    Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

    Syncro 350
    Invertec v250-s
    Thermal Arc 161 and 300
    MM210
    Dialarc
    Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.

  20. #15
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    7,092
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave View Post
    Welds don't look like Instagram - that'll never work
    Lol... before I had a Dialarc to smooth them out. Looking at the pics, I'm also amazed some of them have held....again, it's a question of design where the metal takes the brunt of the force and the welds just hold it together...
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

    250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
    Les

  21. Likes MinnesotaDave liked this post
  22. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Big Lake/Monticello MN
    Posts
    15,080
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    Lol... before I had a Dialarc to smooth them out. Looking at the pics, I'm also amazed some of them have held....again, it's a question of design where the metal takes the brunt of the force and the welds just hold it together...
    Yepper, the Dialarc will fix you right up
    Dave J.

    Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

    Syncro 350
    Invertec v250-s
    Thermal Arc 161 and 300
    MM210
    Dialarc
    Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.

  23. Likes whtbaron liked this post
  24. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NW New Jersey
    Posts
    1,117
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    All the splitters that I've seen, or noticed, have the vertical wedge as the primary split, and then a few inches of wedge before the horizontal split. Using the horizontal as the primary seems to give the log a lot of leverage to flex the beam or tube.


    I like the Timberwolf designs especially the TW-1 with a lower 4" pre-wedge, starting the split close to the beam. You should check them out for some ideas for your own stuff.

    I generally use W- beam , W6 or W8 with at least 20 Lb/FT (my last one was a W6-28) they give you at least a 1/2" flange thickness. Beveling around the pointy part of the wedge is for getting weld into the area that will be ground out to keep a point close to the beam(area most likely to begin failing) I've always run with a 12" tall wedge so I can split log, roll 90 deg, and split both halves at the same time. Many of the skid steer splitters I've seen on you-tube have much shorter wedges, which is probably better when picking up the logs.

    My first splitter was done with a Miller econotwin HF (like a thunderbolt) and E7018 on DC. It was the first time I ever used 7018, and it held up for over 20 years. It was cobbled together with what ever I could scavenge from a scrap bin at a molding factory I worked at.

    Name:  splitterwedge.png
Views: 138
Size:  23.3 KB

    Name:  0606161948.jpg
Views: 132
Size:  114.8 KB
    Beam twisted, and cracked.

    Name:  0606161201a.jpg
Views: 128
Size:  67.9 KB
    Wedge that was cut out of beam above. Notice crack beginning at the pointy part.

    Name:  0701162022c - Copy.jpg
Views: 129
Size:  92.8 KB
    Machines that always get used, never seem to get the love they deserve.





    Hope this Helps !

    regards
    Last edited by albrightree; 05-19-2022 at 06:56 PM.
    Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square wave
    Miller Synchrowave 180 sd
    Miller Econo Twin HF
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Dayton 225 ac/dc
    Victor torches
    Snap-On YA-212
    Lotos Cut60D
    Primeweld 225 ac/dc
    Primeweld mig180
    Miller AEAD-200

  25. Likes whtbaron liked this post
  26. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    299
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    I don't think most people seeing this realize that this is an upside down splitter, controlled from the cab of skid steer. This lets you not have to handle logs to split them, you can pick them up with the splitter and split them into a pickup bed. Several mfgs of these so you need to look at their website and see how they reinforce the ends etc. I have assembled the parts to make one, but have not really had a need for it. Too large a cylinder would increase the force that you use and cause a lot of breakage.

  27. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Skidsteer woodsplitter

    Quote Originally Posted by mwshaw View Post
    I don't think most people seeing this realize that this is an upside down splitter, controlled from the cab of skid steer. This lets you not have to handle logs to split them, you can pick them up with the splitter and split them into a pickup bed. Several mfgs of these so you need to look at their website and see how they reinforce the ends etc. I have assembled the parts to make one, but have not really had a need for it. Too large a cylinder would increase the force that you use and cause a lot of breakage.
    Yes this is correct

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 1,656,522,748.22860 seconds with 13 queries