Different air set up Hypertherm 30 XP - what filter?

[jrigal]

So, I have a different air set up due to my limited shop area and I'm wondering if I need anymore filtration for my Hypertherm 30 XP. My compressor is a 15 gallon 110v (5cfm) set up inside my air conditioned fully climate controlled shop. Room humidity is usually in the 40's or 50's - I'm in Louisiana. My shop has a wood floor, so I use my plasma and my welder outside on a concrete covered area. I have 6" of 3/8 gas pipe running through the wall to connect to air while outside. My set up is compressor (inside) - 25' hose reel - pass through - 6' air hose - plasma. I called Hypertherm and explained my set up. I was told I may be ok with no extra filters for the plasma. I'm thinking maybe a little insurance wouldn't hurt. Plus if I want to paint...

Motor guard? I've read on forums they're best for oil and just ok for water. Don't know if that's true?
2 stage coalescent/desiccant filter?
No extra filter?

[John T]

This is what I use for ALL my shop air.
Including the hypertherm PM45

I also have an auto drain which you can see on the bottom right hand of the compressor picture.
And one drip leg.

This may be overkill for my little two car garage,
But maybe not.

Don’t forget the hypertherm also has an internal water separator.

If you take the cover off you will see it.

Run whatever you want….

I have been very happy with my particular set up.

Actually I just noticed that I’m due to change the desiccant beads

Dry equals blue
Moisture equals pink.

I buy them in bulk and keep the saturated ones until the winter

I put them on a steel tray next to the woodstove and they are blue again in about an hour.

For the amount of air I use in the shop I only really have to change them maybe once every two months.

Air is very dry.

Never had a problem with the plasma
Or occasional painting.

[Oscar]

It's not cheap, but it's a good investment: HTP Max Dry. Buy once, cry once.

[John T]

It's not cheap, but it's a good investment: HTP Max Dry. Buy once, cry once.

I would bet a dime to a dozen donuts that the HTP max is the exact same thing as the Arrow product I have /rebadged.

And about double the price.

[jrigal]

I keep looking at all these systems and I see a lot of 2 stage and 3 stage systems. The 3 stages are particulate/coalescing/desiccant, and the 2 stage are just missing the particulate. What’s the reason to need the particulate filter or even more confusing - to NOT need it?

My compressor being in a fairly clean indoors climate controlled environment, I’m thinking I’m good with 2 stages?

John, yours looks like it’s coalescing/desiccant/“motor guard” style followed by a regulator. But the HTP starts with a regulator then particulate/coalescing/desiccant and then something else. I did notice an Arrow product that looked identical. Why do some start with a regulator and some end with a regulator?

[John T]

John, yours looks like it’s coalescing/desiccant/“motor guard” style followed by a regulator. But the HTP starts with a regulator then particulate/coalescing/desiccant and then something else. I did notice an Arrow product that looked identical. Why do some start with a regulator and some end with a regulator?

yeah,
I noticed that also. actually, the picture is in there twice... One is reversed... so not sure how they actually set it up.

I put mine in the orientation that made the most sense... (in my head)

not sure if it's technically correct... but it seems to work.


HERE- https://usaweld.com/products/htp-ame...ry-max-dry-xxl

[jrigal]

I think yours makes the most sense. If there’s a regulator at the compressor and then another one last - after all the fittings and filters but right before the tool, then you know the psi getting to the tool.

[John T]

I don't know how true this is but

I remember reading somewhere that there is a possibility of occasional tiny chips of desiccant bead passing through the airline
And getting into the tool.

That's why I put the motor guard filter after the desiccant filter.

That said, I have yet to see any desiccant in the motor guard filter.

[jrigal]

I appreciate that info. I read that too and was also curious about it.

[ccawgc]

With your set up just the motor guard is all you need. If your compressor is oil less. Just open the motor guard and let it dry when you are not using it.
Or swap out the filter and put wet filter on a shelf to dry.
until the filter starts shredding paper or get oil soaked. no reason to throw it away.
Been doing this for many years now. With a 5 scfh compressor you will be able to make short cuts. On a long cut you will have to watch the output pressure and when it drops you have to stop and wait for tank to recharge. Low air pressure will damage the torch consumables.