H190 now power after replacing cord

[abosely]

Embarrassed to have to ask about this.

Made short cord with 3 prong welder receptacle and 240v L14-30P twist lock and everything fine.

Replaced the power cord with 25’ of 10/3 stranded flexible cord by splicing tails of original power cord & put the L14-30P plug on cord.

Have 240v at machine but machine does nothing.

Checked the spool gun/mig gun switch is to mig gun.

The CB1 proctor white button is ‘loose’ as in doesn’t have any spring type resistance when pushing it, doesn’t click or anything.

Machine acts like has no power, no response at all, no fan nothing.

Any idea what I did wrong or missing?

Cheers, Allen

[52 Ford]

Embarrassed to have to ask about this.

Made short cord with 3 prong welder receptacle and 240v L14-30P twist lock and everything fine.

Replaced the power cord with 25’ of 10/3 stranded flexible cord by splicing tails of original power cord & put the L14-30P plug on cord.

Have 240v at machine but machine does nothing.

Checked the spool gun/mig gun switch is to mig gun.

The CB1 proctor white button is ‘loose’ as in doesn’t have any spring type resistance when pushing it, doesn’t click or anything.

Machine acts like has no power, no response at all, no fan nothing.

Any idea what I did wrong or missing?

Cheers, Allen

Take your multimeter and check continuity between the plug and where the splice is.

I'm thinking it's in the plug.

Did you solder your splice? Unless you're using some really serious crimp connectors (thick copper tube with a 6 sided crimp, followed up with adhesive lined heatshrink tube), I recommend soldering and then heat shrink.

I'm assuming you're using the style plug that clam-shells open, you connect the wires to the prongs, then close it and screw it shut.

I suggest tinning the conductors (solder ends of wires) before installing them in the plug. That way the wires don't fray. As long as you use sufficient torque, you get a very good connection. I also apply dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion.

You could have a wire that pulled loose inside the plug. I've had that happen. Just cause the screw terminal feels tight, doesn't mean it's clamping the wire.

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[52 Ford]

READ THIS: I can pretty much guarantee that one of the two 120V legs is not connected.

Depending on which leg isn't connected, some 240V equipment will act really funny.

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[abosely]

I get 240v at the spade contacts on machine
Seems like power is getting to machine, but doesn’t act like it is.
As if a breaker in machine has tripped, but don’t know if anything like that except for the supplementary proctor CB1 on back of machine.

I only have 12/14ga spade connectors on hand, will get couple of 10ga ones and put them on cord like original cord had so no splices so be direct like original cord.

[rexcormack]

If you are talking about a Hobart Handler 190 here is the wiring diagram.

https://www.hobartwelders.com/files/...48841A_HOB.pdf

If you do not have 240vac at the fan motor nothing will work.
The 24vac that powers the control board is derived from the fan motor.

[52 Ford]

I get 240v at the spade contacts on machine
Seems like power is getting to machine, but doesn’t act like it is.
As if a breaker in machine has tripped, but don’t know if anything like that except for the supplementary proctor CB1 on back of machine.

I only have 12/14ga spade connectors on hand, will get couple of 10ga ones and put them on cord like original cord had so no splices so be direct like original cord.

Ah, I was thinking that you just cut the end off the cord and added onto it.

Refer to wiring diagram.

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[abosely]

Got 10 ga spade connectors, crimped them on and she run like a top. :-)
The 25’ cord & 20’ ground clamp cord are nice to have. :-)

[52 Ford]

Got 10 ga spade connectors, crimped them on and she run like a top. :-)
The 25’ cord & 20’ ground clamp cord are nice to have. :-)

Good to hear!

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