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Stuck arbor in a drill press
I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Drill Drift through the slots at the top of the arbor sleeve.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Make your own drift wedge with a very slow taper, polish the faces with a flap disc, grease them and whack it good. Been there on a big radial arm press.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
Welder Dave
I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
Just to clarify, the press has an MT3 socket holding the broken arbor the chuck formally was attached to? It doesn't have a wedge slot??
If Loctite was used, evenly warming the lower part of the quill to 300-350* should weaken the bond and allow some Vicegrips to rotate the stub while the quill is locked. Cooling the quill assembly thoroughly with ice, then rapidly and evenly heating the outside with a gently OA flame should expand the socket while the stub remains cold, allowing it to be twisted/pulled out.
If those don't work, welding as you suggested should have a good chance of success.
BTW, I prefer Oil of Wintergreen (Methyl Salicylate) as a penetrant. Seems to wick into where others don't, is less messy, and smells great.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
. One of these.
Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Use that drift wedge in the spindle slot like this. You may need to turn spindle in the quill so it lines up.
Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Did you use loctie- ?
Dave
Originally Posted by
Welder Dave
I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Don't know if loctite was used. Typical when loaning something to someone else that doesn't totally understand how it's supposed to work. I remember he said he fixed the run out several years ago but don't know what he did. It still had about 14 thou. run out. Maybe the arbor was bad, maybe the chuck was bad, I don't know but will happily get a new arbor and chuck if I can get the broken arbor out. I have a drift and even welded some hard facing on the edges but the arbor isn't budging after spraying penetrating oil around the tang and heating the quill opposite to where the slots are for inserting the drift. It was fairly hot but I didn't want to get it too hot because there is a bearing near the bottom of the quill. The penetrating oil was smoking. Looks similar to what MJD has posted except the slot is longer (not a round hole at the top) and the tang on the arbor goes about 1/2 way up it. There is also another column around the quill that has notches in the back for the gear to lower the assembly when drilling. I can see that the penetrating oil should go down alongside the taper under the tang. I beat on the drift and turned it 180 deg's. and beat it some more and no go. Maybe I could try hitting the part of the arbor that extends but I think the drift would put a lot more force on it. I'm hoping the instant heat from welding would expand and then shrink the arbor so it comes out. If loctite was used would think the heat from welding should be enough to break it free. I don't what else I could try. Welding something on I could use a slide hammer or that I could pound on from each side at the same time? It's very frustrating.
It's hard to heat up just the quill and cool the arbor. They are basically like a solid piece of steel when they're stuck together. The quill is inside an even larger part that has the notches in the back for the gear teeth to move the whole assembly down when drilling.
Last edited by Welder Dave; 05-30-2022 at 07:16 PM.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Hit both sides of the spindle with a lead hammer at the same time. Might shock it loose. Works for balljoints!
Shock is generally better than constant force for this sort of thing. If you drive the drift into it and it doesn't budge, try rapping on it with a lead (or brass?) hammer. Taking about the spindle, not the tooling.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
Welder Dave
Don't know if loctite was used. Typical when loaning something to someone else that doesn't totally understand how it's supposed to work. I remember he said he fixed the run out several years ago but don't know what he did. It still had about 14 thou. run out. Maybe the arbor was bad, maybe the chuck was bad, I don't know but will happily get a new arbor and chuck if I can get the broken arbor out. I have a drift and even welded some hard facing on the edges but the arbor isn't budging after spraying penetrating oil around the tang and heating the quill opposite to where the slots are for inserting the drift. It was fairly warm but I didn't want to get it too hot because there is a bearing near the bottom of the quill. The penetrating oil was smoking. Looks very similar to what MJD has posted except the slot is longer (not a round hole at the top) and the tang on the arbor goes about 1/2 way up it. I can see that the penetrating oil should go down alongside the taper under the tang. I beat on the drift and turned it 180 deg's. and beat it some more and no go. Maybe I could try hitting the part of the arbor that extends but I think the drift would put a lot more force on it. I'm hoping the instant heat from welding will expand and then shrink the arbor so it comes out. If loctite was used would think the heat from welding should be enough to break it free. I don't what else I could try. Welding something on I could use a slide hammer or pound on from each side?
Drill press spindles usually come out easily. On your basic belt drive DPs, you can remove the top pulley, pull the pinion/clockspring/handle assembly from the side, and the spindle with slide out from the bottom. Might be easier working on it at the bench.
Don't worry about getting it too hot. Only thing that you might have to keep an eye on are the seals on the bearings (if it has any).
Not a bad idea to repack the bearings, anyway. Pull the bearings out, pop off the seals or shields with a sharp pick, wash them in solvent, dry, then do a partial fill with grease. Maybe 30-50 percent fill? Too much grease it you get excessive heat build up.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
12V71
Make your own drift wedge with a very slow taper, polish the faces with a flap disc, grease them and whack it good. Been there on a big radial arm press.
I tries this but without grease. The damn thing is stuck good! I bought the drill press used about 30 years ago from a machinery dealer and bought a new chuck and arbor for it at the same time. The arbor used to come out with the drift I made. What someone else did I have no idea. I needed a drill press and bought this one because it was a lot heavier than stuff they sell nowadays or back then and it had a slower speed around 180 RPM if I recall. Most drill presses go way too fast for drills over a 1/2" in diameter. The drill press is rated for 3/4" but I've drilled 1" holes with just a partly drilled 1/4" pilot hole to center the bit no problem. I recently drilled 1 1/4" holes and it was a little fast until it got to the outside edges of the drill bit but then had nice flutes coming off. I need to use a large hole saw to drill something as true as possible is why I'm trying to get the arbor out to fix the run out. When I put a dial indicator on the quill above the chuck it was only off about .004" total which I'm OK with. The arbor appears to be fairly hard as it snapped off clean when I hit a 2x4 on the chuck to try and correct the run out. I guess in hindsight I could have lived with .014" run out knowing how stuck the arbor is.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Could you weld a nut on 2 sides of the arbor? By torqueing bolts against the spindle it should pop it loose. I've used that to remove arbors from drill chucks and it worked pretty easy.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
52 Ford
Drill press spindles usually come out easily. On your basic belt drive DPs, you can remove the top pulley, pull the pinion/clockspring/handle assembly from the side, and the spindle with slide out from the bottom. Might be easier working on it at the bench.
Don't worry about getting it too hot. Only thing that you might have to keep an eye on are the seals on the bearings (if it has any).
Not a bad idea to repack the bearings, anyway. Pull the bearings out, pop off the seals or shields with a sharp pick, wash them in solvent, dry, then do a partial fill with grease. Maybe 30-50 percent fill? Too much grease it you get excessive heat build up.
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Some brown goop was dripping down and I'm not sure if it was the penetrating oil or possibly melted seals from the lower bearing letting the heated grease out. I think it has a snap ring on the bottom to keep the bearing in place. I thought about seeing if I could take it apart to maybe make the repair easier. I'll probably try welding on the arbor first to see if that works.
It is the same as this one. Probably made in the mid 70's. I think I paid $300 or $350 for it in the early 80's and then had to buy the chuck and arbor for about $50 or $60. At the time a new equivalent drill press was over $1000. It has a bigger column than most and weighs about 350lbs. I think a lot of the belt drive drill presses are made for woodworking. Even the machinery dealer I bought it from said it was one of the heaviest belt drives they've come across. It's a good drill press if I can fix it.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Hammer drill in hammer mode on the drift
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
ive have/had drill bits where tang got twisted, and hard to get in/out. ive seen them twisted/broke off too. maybe possible some sort of twisting distortion happened before u got it.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
How do you "tap" on an arbor, and break it?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
52 Ford
Hit both sides of the spindle with a lead hammer at the same time. Might shock it loose. Works for balljoints!
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Or that while someone simultaneously works the drift....
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
How do you "tap" on an arbor, and break it?
I hit a 2x4 on it. It looks about 7/16" dia. and a hard steel, at least on the outside. Why it snapped off I have no idea. It did break right at the edge where it went to a larger dia. I could see if I smacked it directly with a hammer but I figured the 2x4 would absorb a lot of the blow. it wasn't a 4lb hammer or anything like that either. It almost looked like maybe there was a flaw in the steel. The middle part of the break was almost a black colour and the outer portion was more a normal steel looking colour. Heat treat maybe?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
123weld
ive have/had drill bits where tang got twisted, and hard to get in/out. ive seen them twisted/broke off too. maybe possible some sort of twisting distortion happened before u got it.
The tang looks slightly turned but not much.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Cast steel?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
And heat treat...
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
M J D
Could you weld a nut on 2 sides of the arbor? By torqueing bolts against the spindle it should pop it loose. I've used that to remove arbors from drill chucks and it worked pretty easy.
Maybe, I was thinking of somehow to push it off with bolts or a puller type deal. If I put a heavy washer over the broken arbor the bolts would have something to push against.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Does your spindle have a through-hole for draw bar like on milling machines?
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
Originally Posted by
Welder Dave
Maybe, I was thinking of somehow to push it off with bolts or a puller type deal. If I put a heavy washer over the broken arbor the bolts would have something to push against.
Yeah there probably isn't much material there without pushing against a washer. Even pressure will definitely help. Another thing to try may be using 2 opposing wedges with a shallow taper. I wouldn't be afraid to bang on wedges pretty hard provided you can put support on the opposite side like holding a sledge against the spindle.
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Re: Stuck arbor in a drill press
No through hole on the spindle/quill. It's solid at the top of the slot above the tang on the arbor. It's pretty heavy material around the quill too. There is a slot in the outer material that you have to line with the slot in the quill to put the drift in. This holds the bearing for the bottom of the quill. I wish the quill came down on it's own, like in MJD's pic., it would be a lot easier to heat just the quill and/or cool the arbor at the same time. I think welding a flat bar to the broken arbor with 2 nuts welded on it might be the best option. If the heat from welding isn't enough for the drift, I can turn a couple bolts to put some even pressure on it and then give the drift a smack to shock it loose... Hopefully.
Last edited by Welder Dave; 05-31-2022 at 02:34 AM.