1990 Ford Super Duty with ZF5 manual transmission SMOKING from shift boot!

[John T]

Tough call.
I'm sure a remanufactured is not cheap.

I guess it depends on how much you want to invest in the truck.

I'd probably look for a good used transmission.

I think possibly they dropped yours trying to take it out.

It's a heavy mother.

[forhire]

Tough call. I'm sure a remanufactured is not cheap. I guess it depends on how much you want to invest in the truck. I'd probably look for a good used transmission. I think possibly they dropped yours trying to take it out. It's a heavy mother.

I think I'll be right around $750 for the parts, I'll save about $1400 and I won't have a $2000 core hold on my card.

[John T]

So I assume you will be welding up the crack at the starter mount?

[forhire]

So I assume you will be welding up the crack at the starter mount?

Fortunately my case is fine. I'm going to buy new internals from Zumbrota and put it back together. I was kinda freaking out when nothing cross referenced and bought a used unit from B&R. When they removed it from the truck this morning they discovered the crack. I suspect your right they likely dropped it and it broke. I any event I should have some more adventures next week when all the parts arrive.

[forhire]

I've been keeping myself busy while I wait for the transmission parts to arrive. It has been sitting in the shop long enough I was able to confirm my suspicion that the rear main seal is leaking. I pulled the flywheel and seal today and confirmed my suspicion that the journal has a groove worn in. I've ordered a new seal with repair sleeve. I also have a new pressure plate and clutch disk coming in the morning.

[farmersammm]

It's great that you're catching the problem before it gets out of hand.

Every truck I own has the same problem. They slobber a bit of oil out the rear main. Luckily, the transmission bell housings are made for this. They have a small drain hole that lets the oil out before it damages the clutch.

[farmersammm]

Clutch won't work for crap unless you either machine, or replace, the flywheel. It will be grabby, and have chatter.

[forhire]

Clutch won't work for crap unless you either machine, or replace, the flywheel. It will be grabby, and have chatter.

The flywheel and clutch disk both look good, as does the surface of the pressure plate. The pressure plate diaphragm spring has some abnormal wear due to the bad throwout bearing. I suspect the throwout bearing went bad prematurely due to a heavily worn quill tube. It is a dual mass flywheel. Should I check the disk in the flywheel?

[forhire]

I've been doing some reading on dual mass flywheels and per manufacturer’s instructions it is a wear item that cannot be resurfaced and should be replaced. I need to do some more checking to verify it isn't worn out internally. I've been doing some reading on the DMF vs SMF and a lot of guys are having good results with the 12" SMF conversion. Napa had a few different options when I ordered my parts this afternoon. The DMF was expensive if I recall. I'll check again in the morning.

[12V71]

I've been doing some reading on dual mass flywheels and per manufacturer’s instructions it is a wear item that cannot be resurfaced and should be replaced. I need to do some more checking to verify it isn't worn out internally. I've been doing some reading on the DMF vs SMF and a lot of guys are having good results with the 12" SMF conversion. Napa had a few different options when I ordered my parts this afternoon. The DMF was expensive if I recall. I'll check again in the morning.

I don't know if I would go the SMF route, it's cheaper but will make the transmission noisy and possibly reduce gear life. If the damper springs and nylon bushings are still in good shape, I would stick with the one you have if the wear face is in good condition. The dual mass could go 400K miles easy if the clutch surface didn't get burnt. If you don't have blue spots or grooves it should be ok.

[John T]

Dual mass is quiter but can crack/ blowup and cause vibes when its bad.
Single flywheel makes a little more noise at idle but can handle more tq.

Dual mass was discontinued in the 2000's ? I think

Most OBS guys replace them when they do a clutch.

I did

[duramax-rob]

south bend clutch are the guru's of the clutch world. diesels really. might want to contact them. southbendclutch.com

[Leogl]

Check the bearing races in the case the aluminum case expands when it gets hot and the race will spin cools off it stops I saw this once I use amsoil full synthetic

[John T]

Check the bearing races in the case the aluminum case expands when it gets hot and the race will spin cools off it stops I saw this once I use amsoil full synthetic

Yes

I saw that happen in a jeep transfer case
Mystery noise for years...

Race was spinning in the alum housing.

Trashed the housing pretty much.

[forhire]

Dual mass is quiter but can crack/ blowup and cause vibes when its bad.
Single flywheel makes a little more noise at idle but can handle more tq.
Dual mass was discontinued in the 2000's ? I think
Most OBS guys replace them when they do a clutch.
I did

I'm going to roll the dice on the DMF. It appears to be in good condition.

south bend clutch are the guru's of the clutch world. diesels really. might want to contact them. southbendclutch.com

Thanks for the link. I'll likely go SMF the next time I change clutch discs... if I keep the truck long enough.

Check the bearing races in the case the aluminum case expands when it gets hot and the race will spin cools off it stops I saw this once I use amsoil full synthetic

I pulled the races this morning. Some minor evidence of having spun. No perceivable ridges. After I sent the preload I'll likely loctite them.

Yes
I saw that happen in a jeep transfer case
Mystery noise for years...
Race was spinning in the alum housing.
Trashed the housing pretty much.

Good call on checking the races. Some minor fretting but no perceivable ridges. The races definitely show signs of getting hot. I'm going to roll the dice with some loctite. They were very hard to remove at room temperature.

[John T]

Good call on checking the races. Some minor fretting but no perceivable ridges. The races definitely show signs of getting hot. I'm going to roll the dice with some loctite.

You might know this already but,
Loctite makes a special # specifically for that purpose

To close up a gap between a bearing race or bushing etc.

It expands slightly and fills the gap with super Duper green Loctite strength.

Can't remember the number offhand but I'm sure it's on the website.

Might be 660 but don't quote me on that.

[Sberry]

Hey,,, these are notorious for the flywheel specs, if they are ground they need a shim added to them. The distance between all this is critical, the throwout is fixed and cant be adjusted. We had a heck oif the time with therse when first started servicing them, they finally made a replacement kit, came wheel, plate and disk. Seemed like a waste to toss a big ole flywheel but twas only way they worked right. I had one apart a while back someone worked on and I figured there would be more written about it when I looked,,, I recall it was a real fiasco back in the day.

[Sberry]

Ya the 640 works, works well, fixed a lot of stuff with it.

[farmersammm]

Aluminum being such a soft material...............how solid is the press fit after you've removed a bearing race, and distorted the bore to some degree?

[John T]

Aluminum being such a soft material...............how solid is the press fit after you've removed a bearing race, and distorted the bore to some degree?

Normally it's not a problem.

The only time that I have seen the bore get distorted is from overheating/usually from a bad bearing.

[forhire]

All the parts have arrived minus the thrust washer, Ford part number: E7TZ-7119-D, which has proven difficult to source. I was going to turn one from bearing bronze but because mine was so mangled I could only guess it was about 5 or 6 mm thick. So lacking known details, I ordered one the OEM in Europe. Even searching for alternate part numbers like Volvo and such didn't reveal a US supplier. https://www.euroricambigroup.com/en/...cambi/95532256

I really need my shop space back so I picked up a "rebuilt 10k miles ago" transmission and transfer case in Coos Bay, Oregon for $650. Not a bad price, aside from the 5 hour drive each way. Fortunately, I picked it up on my way to California, so it was kinda on the way.

I've been passing a LOT of tomato trucks on this trip and all I can think about is how crazy expensive catsup will be...

[John T]

You probably have a transmission jack but this was my get up for installing the transmission/transfer case

The aluminum plate across the top has holes for the transmission mount to be bolted to

[Sberry]

I think this is a ZF Got a super wash.

[John T]

I really need my shop space back so I picked up a "rebuilt 10k miles ago" transmission and transfer case in Coos Bay, Oregon for $650.

All buttoned up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[forhire]

I wish. It's still sitting on a pallet behind the shop.