Ordering a Welding Table top - warpage, rust... need some info

[jousley]

Good Morning,

I've had a TIG for a few years, just bought a MIG and built the base of my first welding table. I am not ordering the top from a steel manufacturer. It will be 4'x5' 3/8" hot rolled. I requested that it have 16mm holes throughout 4" centers, and each subsequent row to be staggered.
When discussed the quote with the rep, she stated that because they are using the laser and introducing heat, the table top will warp like a "potato chip". When I asked about water jetting to reduce any warpage, she stated it would cost more and will rust.
I assume I can deal with the rust issue - but then was wondering... how do folks order custom table tops? Is the laser warpage assumed, and is easy to deal with? Or should table tops always be water jetted?
I am looking for some advice on this project, as I'd like to order this week and am not sure what variables folks usually consider.

Let me know your thoughts,
Thanks,
jay

[Sberry]

Before getting in to thjis,,, there are a lot of opinions here but,,,, forget all these holes. If you really need one get a battery drill or blow one with a torch. This is a first bench project, keep it simple and invest in simple common clamps and decent designjm to start with. In small shop the "bench" is so much more usefull when it does a lot of stuff, mine is used for dam near every project welded or not.

[Sberry]

6 inch overhang on one end and 4 inch along sides or at least one side and maybe a bit more than 6 on end with gusset so to speak can drill a hole or 2 without it going to shelf unnderneath becomes catch all for heavy items. If it needed to move, 2 big steel wheels on one end, legs to the floor on the other and lift one end with common auto floor jack. Leave room on end to hang grate and catch can for torch/plasma, saves a real mess.

[jousley]

I do want some holes for clamping, etc.
That was something else I was thinking - maybe I would drill the holes myself.. and drill would keep the heat down - and the top would already be welded flat prior - so no warpage.... That being said, wouldn't I need to get one of those portable drill press rigs for your normal drill? and would need some serious bit. I'm also a bit concerned about drilling the holes exactly straight and perpendicular.
Does anyone have advice on this process - or if this is the best option?
J

[Sberry]

This is not the perfect bench, it needs a real top to be cool, its all scrap like a puzzle but its the perfect size/type/feature bench for general work. Super ergonomics and no one ever realizes its scrap.

[Sberry]

If someone had to have tube its their money but IO build all that stuff angle and straight cut. My scrap,,, should have at least squared a lleg but someone gave me and I move in, shim the legs up and tack more stuff on till it worked well enough it never got replaced. Not fine craft work but no one ever seems to notice.
I forget all that tube attatchment crap unless I add 1 I had to have,,, my fave is a rotator4 vise on another modest bench. I use both.

[M J D]

As I figured you got rambling replies how holes aren't needed despite that's what you want. Next up will be to weld with fluxcore, outside of course. Despite that nonsense here's how to do what you want to accomplish. Build your perimeter frame out of angle, preferably 3"x3" x1/4" or heavier. I would inset frame somewhat to make edge clamping easier. Lay out frame so none of the webs align with intended hole placement. 1/2" or so holes in the angle frame and plug weld to underside of top. I would do 3 plugs short side, 4 long side. Plug welds will minimize warp on the top provided frame is flat and top is securely clamped. Magnetic drill with an annular cutter would be best. Layout all holes from 1 squared off corner. Layout fluid and a scribe would be the most accurate way to do this. If your careful and meticulous you should be able to obtain 15 thousandths or so accuracy on spacing. You could hand pilot and drill and use a car reamer but keeping holes perpendicular would be difficult. Rental or buying , doing job and reselling a cheap msg drill are options. Good luck

[cwby]

For the holes - rent a mag drill with an annular cutter.
Makes short work on the holes & the will be straight.

[Lis2323]

to the OP

it would appear that the rep either didn't know what she was talking about or didn't want to do the job.

either find someone else or use a mag drill with careful layout as mentioned above.

[jousley]

thank you all - .
I just found a rental spot down the street with a mag drill and annular bit. so that's good. The table top will be welded to square tubing going across the full width of the top, every 10" or so - so fully supported. If this is the case - do I really need the perimeter of angle iron? wasn't planning on it and if the way I have it laid out is good - then I'd rather just go with that.

Lastly, concerned about the accuracy of the holes. I was thinking I could pay to have a local, laser cut out the hole centers in a thin piece of steel/aluminum which would span the width of the table top. Then just mark the centers and edge of the template, move down and repeat. Wondering if this makes sense - or if there is an simpler solution. Again - thanks for the knowledge so far. At this point - I'm going to order the metal without the service. - and attempt the drilling.
J

[Lis2323]

when i built my welding table with holes i didn't own a mag drill at the time.

i found a cheap drill press on craigslist, chopped the column and rotated the drill head 180°

[smithdoor]

I have always built tables from scape of steel just save money.
But my line did not need a high quality. I was in welding structural steel .

Some here does very close work in welding and need better table.

What type of welding are doing?

Dave

thank you all - .
I just found a rental spot down the street with a mag drill and annular bit. so that's good. The table top will be welded to square tubing going across the full width of the top, every 10" or so - so fully supported. If this is the case - do I really need the perimeter of angle iron? wasn't planning on it and if the way I have it laid out is good - then I'd rather just go with that.

Lastly, concerned about the accuracy of the holes. I was thinking I could pay to have a local, laser cut out the hole centers in a thin piece of steel/aluminum which would span the width of the table top. Then just mark the centers and edge of the template, move down and repeat. Wondering if this makes sense - or if there is an simpler solution. Again - thanks for the knowledge so far. At this point - I'm going to order the metal without the service. - and attempt the drilling.
J

[M J D]

You could have a strip of flat bar drilled with the hole centers you want and then use it for layout. Square it up, clamp in place and use a transfer punch or use it to directly line up the annular cutter. As for angle, it's what I prefer as it's very strong in both directions and it makes plug welding easy. I've found plug welds to distort the plate the least. I would only attach legs to framework and not the top. Small evenly spaced welds will warp the least. 3/8" isn't very thick so it warped rather easily.

[Woznme]

I'd definitely be using a thicker plate. The thicker the better.
You can have the supplier laser in small pilot holes with cnc for accuracy, that's the biggest thing. You can then drill out yourself. Mag drill with annular cutter is the way to go. You can cold blue the surface as well to control rust.

[Louie1961]

My personal opinion, based on the 3x5 table I built with a 3/8ths hot rolled top, it isn't going to be flat enough to bother with clamping holes. It is just the nature of hot rolled plate at that thickness. Also in my experience if you want to do a lot of clamping to it, I would go 1/2 inch if at all possible for more rigidity. If your table isn't flat, I would recommend not clamping to it, at least in some situations. If I am making something that has to be flat/planar (like a table top) I find I do MUCH better using my Fireball tool mega squares and three small pieces of pipe (as Jason says, three non linear points of reference make a plane.). Same if I am welding something that needs to be square (like table legs)-I get much better results with the mega squares.

If you really want to drill holes, then the mag drill is the way to go. Lots of videos out there explaining how other guys have done it. The other thing to consider is how well will those clamps work in a hole only 3/8ths deep. My understanding is that is too shallow to effectively use strong hand style clamps. YMMV

[Freebirdwelds]

Good Morning,

I've had a TIG for a few years, just bought a MIG and built the base of my first welding table. I am not ordering the top from a steel manufacturer. It will be 4'x5' 3/8" hot rolled. I requested that it have 16mm holes throughout 4" centers, and each subsequent row to be staggered.
When discussed the quote with the rep, she stated that because they are using the laser and introducing heat, the table top will warp like a "potato chip". When I asked about water jetting to reduce any warpage, she stated it would cost more and will rust.
I assume I can deal with the rust issue - but then was wondering... how do folks order custom table tops? Is the laser warpage assumed, and is easy to deal with? Or should table tops always be water jetted?
I am looking for some advice on this project, as I'd like to order this week and am not sure what variables folks usually consider.

Let me know your thoughts,
Thanks,
jay

Here Jay check this out.

[Freebirdwelds]

My personal opinion, based on the 3x5 table I built with a 3/8ths hot rolled top, it isn't going to be flat enough to bother with clamping holes. It is just the nature of hot rolled plate at that thickness. Also in my experience if you want to do a lot of clamping to it, I would go 1/2 inch if at all possible for more rigidity. If your table isn't flat, I would recommend not clamping to it, at least in some situations. If I am making something that has to be flat/planar (like a table top) I find I do MUCH better using my Fireball tool mega squares and three small pieces of pipe (as Jason says, three non linear points of reference make a plane.). Same if I am welding something that needs to be square (like table legs)-I get much better results with the mega squares.

If you really want to drill holes, then the mag drill is the way to go. Lots of videos out there explaining how other guys have done it. The other thing to consider is how well will those clamps work in a hole only 3/8ths deep. My understanding is that is too shallow to effectively use strong hand style clamps. YMMV

Exactly, I've been using this system for over 45 years. I've built more precise builds on saw horses and the floor than I have a table.

[Lis2323]

The other thing to consider is how well will those clamps work in a hole only 3/8ths deep. My understanding is that is too shallow to effectively use strong hand style clamps. YMMV

[/url]

Thicker is better for clamp holes but he should be fine with an annular cutter hole in the 3/8” top. My fixture table is only 1/4” thick with laser cut holes and it is fine.

1/4” thick…



3/8”…


5/8”..



1.25”…







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[Louie1961]

If you really want a great welding table that you can clamp to and have absolute flatness, this is what you should build. OK overkill for most people, but I will still likely build it once I retire, just for giggles and grins

[LtBadd]

Good Morning,

I requested that it have 16mm holes throughout 4" centers, and each subsequent row to be staggered.
When discussed the quote with the rep, she stated that because they are using the laser and introducing heat, the table top will warp like a "potato chip".

Let me know your thoughts,
Thanks,
jay

If you do go with laser or waterjet you should provide the CAD file with the hole layout, otherwise you may not get what you want.
Or at least a print that provides all necessary dimensions, verbal instruction to the rep. is a gamble.

[jousley]

Thank you all - this is my first time on this forum - and first post - so much appreciated to all the responses and opinions. Here's my plan based on all the feedback.
I'm sticking with 3/8 - as it's what I can afford. once I get the top attached to my base - i'll check for flatness. If I am satisfied with how flat it is, I will proceed with drilling holes - though based on this thread, I will not do as many as I originally planned - and keep them to certain areas on the top.
If I am not happy with the flatness - I will use jigs to support while building.

At least I have flexibility now - and am not worried about making an error.
Thanks again, and if you think about anything else I need to know - let me know
J

[Lis2323]

Once you get your base built you can see how good or bad your top is for flatness. There’s no reason you shouldn’t be able to tweak flat a small area like that with strategic tacks or shims.

Post back here at that point and I’m certain we can set you “straight”.


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[jousley]

Will do - should be this week - what's the best way to check? Just a ruler across the top?
J

[Louie1961]

Watch the table video I posted. You'll see how to measure flatness

[M J D]

Will do - should be this week - what's the best way to check? Just a ruler across the top?
J

If it's decent. Otherwise a 4' box beam level is going to be pretty accurate.