Welding Rod For 14ga. Rectangle Tubing

[tapwelder]

Welding from inside to outside minimizes distortion, less heat input in the tight corner. So, to weld inward is easier because you are approaching more concentrated mass. However, more heat in that mass can lead to big distortion.

[Oscar]

Welding from inside to outside minimizes distortion, less heat input in the tight corner. So, to weld inward is easier because you are approaching more concentrated mass. However, more heat in that mass can lead to big distortion.

True, but I've destroyed a lot of outside corners going outward, so I tend to go the other way

[farmersammm]

I confess I haven't read all the posts............................ But running 6011 on paper thin material is a viable alternative.

Why???................................ You can long arc the rod.......you can whip the rod. Literally, you can control the amount of heat, and deposit, like no other SMAW consumable. Experienced welders routinely weld very thin purlins with 6011. Ask Bob

[Sberry]

My pics are easier from a PC. I use 6011 for this.

[Oscar]

I confess I haven't read all the posts............................ But running 6011 on paper thin material is a viable alternative.

Why???................................ You can long arc the rod.......you can whip the rod. Literally, you can control the amount of heat, and deposit, like no other SMAW consumable. Experienced welders routinely weld very thin purlins with 6011. Ask Bob

Yes, but I do not think this is the case. No offense to the OP, if he was already proficient doing so, he would be doing so. That's why he posted this thread and mentioned "
I've never really had any luck welding thin material". All of this about you and me using 6011 or 6010, sure. But none of us are doing the work.

[Sberry]

If I had a choice I would use solid wire.

[smithdoor]

Nothing wrong with solid wire.
I have found E70S-6 works best when I work in machine shops for farm equipment.
But my line of work and shop I had to use fluxcore or stick.

Dave

If I had a choice I would use solid wire.

[nickel_city_fab]

Depending what was available, I would use either solid-wire MIG (say .030, but it really wouldn't matter much) or 3/32 6010. Actually I could do the job with oxy-acetylene and some 3/32 RG45 too, but it wouldn't look as nice, guess I need to practice my gas welding. It's handy to have around for stuff like 16-ga exhaust pipe.

[smithdoor]

I had book 📖 that my purchase that had very good chart uses of welding rod.
E6010 and E6011 was used for rusty steel and first pass on plate.

I loss book over time and had day just use of rods I post here.

Dave

Depending what was available, I would use either solid-wire MIG (say .030, but it really wouldn't matter much) or 3/32 6010. Actually I could do the job with oxy-acetylene and some 3/32 RG45 too, but it wouldn't look as nice, guess I need to practice my gas welding. It's handy to have around for stuff like 16-ga exhaust pipe.

[Ruark]

Welded lots of 14 ga. purlin with 1/8" 6011. I like the 1/8 better than the 3/32 because it puts down more metal quicker, and is actually less likely to burn through. A couple of pics. The first vertical, the second was overhead.

[Sberry]

Absolutely agree.

[Sberry]

E6010 and E6011 was used for rusty steel and first pass on plate.

2 things with this. Not always and some never. Worked a couple places 6010 not allowed on the property and all the structural 18 all the way. It can be used as that but doesnt mean it always is. 2nd,,, I am sure this will end up bad but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 7018 actually works better on rust and contamination. The other is easier to get going but the lohy has so much more flux and consistent pool, almost like a little foundry boiling out the crud and floating it off where 10 and 11 mix it all up and freezes in with the weld mix.
I have seen old material try to be welded 10, real contaminated, brine and chlorides and it mix so bad nearly looks like brown salt. It does kind of clean it up a little but running lohy over it makes for a real weld. Lots o0f pipe been welded all the way out with 10
I took over a job in the middle a while back, all the staging for the sections done 10 or similar, the guy was a pro and I looked at a couple joints and off we went. Hi pressure water on about .250 wall, did it in 2 passes, a 10 and a lohy filler cap. All buried, no testing. I had did a spliuce for these guys before and the hoe operator was sitting there and when I was done he looks and says, we dont even need to test this do we,,,, ha.

[dwall174]

since a mig is in the plans ...
and the price of new and better has went down so much that its not a huge leap, common TV can cost more today than a new mig.

If I had a choice I would use solid wire.

I was able to weld fairly well with the Miller 250 I used back when I worked in a small machine shop.

As somewhat of a newbie to stick welding, trying to weld material under 1/8" all I seem to do is burn through the material!
It really makes me think.

I've had my eye out for something around a 180 amp 240 volt MIG for a little while!
If I keep getting these thin metal projects, I may need to take the leap!

Welded lots of 14 ga. purlin with 1/8" 6011. I like the 1/8 better than the 3/32 because it puts down more metal quicker, and is actually less likely to burn through.

I've tried 6011 before, but for me it's not worth the aggravation of trying to strike an arc! For me anyways 6011 just seems to stick or not arc well.
In all fairness, that was with a box of 6011 I got with the welder & it was probably old anyways.

Doug