Get Bent

[Lis2323]

40 years ago we would move harvesters early mornings. sunday if possible.

Always with a pilot car, lights, and wide load signs

Today.... not a chance. keeping in mind though i don't live in a rural area.

[farmersammm]

I think they're pretty liberal about farm equipment here too. https://law.justia.com/codes/oklahom...ion-47-11-406/

I used to move the swather(16 feet wide) on the highway, but culverts, and one bridge, made it pretty risky. We're on a pretty narrow older state highway with no shoulder to speak of. There's one bridge on the county road too.........it's too damn narrow for the swather to even get over it.

K'kins wanted to road a borrowed tractor home a few years ago. I followed her in the pickup. A carload of jerks passed us, and one fat dood leaned out of the window, and shouted at her. Gotta love people. I usually get honked at a couple of times when I move equipment up to the hay meadow. Life's not what it used to be.

I only had 1 flat tire on the swather in all the years while doing this. The folks around here think the side of the road is a dumpster. Bottles, cans, etc.

[farmersammm]

40 years ago we would move harvesters early mornings. sunday if possible.

Always with a pilot car, lights, and wide load signs

Today.... not a chance. keeping in mind though i don't live in a rural area.

It's become way less rural around here too. Too many people moving in. The old timers sell their land either in bulk, or parcels........then all the people that want a "rural" lifestyle move in, and turn it into another version of the suburbs they just left We've seen a lot of McMansions going up over the years. And it seems that most of them don't respect fence lines UNLESS IT'S THEIR FENCE LINE.

[Oldiron2]

It's become way less rural around here too. Too many people moving in. The old timers sell their land either in bulk, or parcels........then all the people that want a "rural" lifestyle move in, and turn it into another version of the suburbs they just left We've seen a lot of McMansions going up over the years. And it seems that most of them don't respect fence lines UNLESS IT'S THEIR FENCE LINE.

I had a friend who'd grown up in a military family at Hanford, Wash. and after retiring from the military himself, moved back to live in the woods in the State. Eventually the area around him got developed and one time, the next door neighbor came to him bitching about all his trees, asking him when he was going to cut them all down and plant GRASS. I forget his exact comment, but it might have been to ask if the neighbor was smoking some, or to say that woodpeckers don't live in or eat grass, and are better neighbors than some "people".

[farmersammm]

It had to be done, there was no way around it.

Cut the plate with the ears in half, and added a piece of 4" wide plate in the middle. The hoses couldn't be removed without taking them off clear at the other end of the rake. One end has 3/8 fittings, and the end near the tractor has 1/2 fittings. The clips along the main beam on the rake don't have enough clearance for the 1/2 fittings, so it would all have to come from the back. Was a PITA to weld around the hoses. Placed a piece of plate over a welding blanket to keep the heat away from the rubber. It interfered with your hands,, but it is what it is. This thing is one surprise after another. As usual, it took longer than I expected

You can see where the rake arm pivots have been slamming into the main beam over the years. The extra clearance eliminates this.

And the hoses had a tendency to get pinched, and ruined.

[farmersammm]

The extra 2" per side, gives me almost true vertical. The welding blanket is to dampen the cable if it snaps. I haven't been able to get out, and get some new cable to replace the previously damaged one. I was able to pick up some good wire rope clips, but the specs call for two of them on 1/4 rope. They'd take up too much room on the eye end of the cable.

It's finally time to close this out, and put the pin assembly together.

While messing around to get some measurements for the pin locks, I raised both arms to their "field" transport positions. (For getting across that creek I mentioned). Surprisingly, with the rakes on, I'm showing a total width of 9'8". This would actually be enough to run down the highway with, as long as you keep to the right side of the pavement.

About that rope.................................... I can use aluminum wire rope ferrules, sort of like what the winch came with(I believe it has a steel ferrule), but I can't find a reasonably priced crimping tool. Saw some on Fleabay, but I'm not sure I trust them to have the right diameter dies. I wish I could find the specs for the openings so I could just make a swage block that I can use on the hydraulic press. Actually, all I'd need to do is put a caliper on a swaged aluminum ferrule to come up with the proper diameter for a swage block.

https://www.vevor.com/pipe-wrench-c_...20group%20%231

The holes look round, but I'm not sure they're not somewhat oval. I believe you can over crimp these ferrules,, and damage the rope, so it's sort of critical to get the right diameter, and shape, I'm thinking

[smithdoor]

Looks great 👍.

It would be interesting to see how many city slickers would know what does. My grandfather use one for making milk 🥛.

Dave

The extra 2" per side, gives me almost true vertical. The welding blanket is to dampen the cable if it snaps. I haven't been able to get out, and get some new cable to replace the previously damaged one. I was able to pick up some good wire rope clips, but the specs call for two of them on 1/4 rope. They'd take up too much room on the eye end of the cable.

It's finally time to close this out, and put the pin assembly together.

While messing around to get some measurements for the pin locks, I raised both arms to their "field" transport positions. (For getting across that creek I mentioned). Surprisingly, with the rakes on, I'm showing a total width of 9'8". This would actually be enough to run down the highway with, as long as you keep to the right side of the pavement.

About that rope.................................... I can use aluminum wire rope ferrules, sort of like what the winch came with(I believe it has a steel ferrule), but I can't find a reasonably priced crimping tool. Saw some on Fleabay, but I'm not sure I trust them to have the right diameter dies. I wish I could find the specs for the openings so I could just make a swage block that I can use on the hydraulic press. Actually, all I'd need to do is put a caliper on a swaged aluminum ferrule to come up with the proper diameter for a swage block.

https://www.vevor.com/pipe-wrench-c_...20group%20%231

The holes look round, but I'm not sure they're not somewhat oval. I believe you can over crimp these ferrules,, and damage the rope, so it's sort of critical to get the right diameter, and shape, I'm thinking

[Oldiron2]

About that rope.................................... I can use aluminum wire rope ferrules, sort of like what the winch came with(I believe it has a steel ferrule), but I can't find a reasonably priced crimping tool. Saw some on Fleabay, but I'm not sure I trust them to have the right diameter dies. I wish I could find the specs for the openings so I could just make a swage block that I can use on the hydraulic press. Actually, all I'd need to do is put a caliper on a swaged aluminum ferrule to come up with the proper diameter for a swage block.
...

The holes look round, but I'm not sure they're not somewhat oval. I believe you can over crimp these ferrules,, and damage the rope, so it's sort of critical to get the right diameter, and shape, I'm thinking

I have a crimper similar to the one you linked too [ Here ], perhaps a bit shorter, and I think I know exactly where it is. If so, I could take a couple pictures of it including close-ups of the crimp holes. Blown up, you could probably compare measurements taken from different directions on the picture to determine oval vs circular. Or I could even measure the holes myself.
Want me to?

.

[whtbaron]

When I changed out the retaining cables on the tailgate of the pickup, I just used the vise and a BFH. It's been a few years and they're still there. For a single use I'd make 2 dies out of a chunk of scrap and squeeze them in the press.

[Lis2323]

The extra 2" per side, gives me almost true vertical. The welding blanket is to dampen the cable if it snaps. I haven't been able to get out, and get some new cable to replace the previously damaged one. I was able to pick up some good wire rope clips, but the specs call for two of them on 1/4 rope. They'd take up too much room on the eye end of the cable.

It's finally time to close this out, and put the pin assembly together.

While messing around to get some measurements for the pin locks, I raised both arms to their "field" transport positions. (For getting across that creek I mentioned). Surprisingly, with the rakes on, I'm showing a total width of 9'8". This would actually be enough to run down the highway with, as long as you keep to the right side of the pavement.

About that rope.................................... I can use aluminum wire rope ferrules, sort of like what the winch came with(I believe it has a steel ferrule), but I can't find a reasonably priced crimping tool. Saw some on Fleabay, but I'm not sure I trust them to have the right diameter dies. I wish I could find the specs for the openings so I could just make a swage block that I can use on the hydraulic press. Actually, all I'd need to do is put a caliper on a swaged aluminum ferrule to come up with the proper diameter for a swage block.

https://www.vevor.com/pipe-wrench-c_...20group%20%231

The holes look round, but I'm not sure they're not somewhat oval. I believe you can over crimp these ferrules,, and damage the rope, so it's sort of critical to get the right diameter, and shape, I'm thinking

don't know if this helps or not. it "might"depend on the manufacture's ferrule size. I assume they are standard but I can't say for sure

[Lis2323]

I have a crimper similar to the one you linked too [ Here ], perhaps a bit shorter, and I think I know exactly where it is. If so, I could take a couple pictures of it including close-ups of the crimp holes. Blown up, you could probably compare measurements taken from different directions on the picture to determine oval vs circular. Or I could even measure the holes myself.
Want me to?

.

Lol. I went to the shop to measure while you posted that!


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[cwby]

[QUOTE=farmersammm; I was able to pick up some good wire rope clips, but the specs call for two of them on 1/4 rope. They'd take up too much room on the eye end of the cable.

About that rope.................................... I can use aluminum wire rope ferrules, sort of like what the winch came with(I believe it has a steel ferrule), but I can't find a reasonably priced crimping tool. Saw some on Fleabay, but I'm not sure I trust them to have the right diameter dies. I wish I could find the specs for the openings so I could just make a swage block that I can use on the hydraulic press. Actually, all I'd need to do is put a caliper on a swaged aluminum ferrule to come up with the proper diameter for a swage block.[/QUOTE]

Use a molly Hogan eye splice. https://www.globalsecurity.org/milit...1/chap12-2.htm

Cna make as small as you need & it is as strong as the cable.

[Oldiron2]

Lol. I went to the shop to measure while you posted that!


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Mine was posted last night, 12 hours ago, while yours was posted an hour ago. You probably looked at the thread before I posted and didn't refresh since, so didn't see mine before responding to it. I have done that a few times on a couple different forums. That's fine, because now, unless Sammmm requests it anyway, I don't need to dig into that part of the garage to get the crimper and take my measurements.

[farmersammm]

don't know if this helps or not. it "might"depend on the manufacture's ferrule size. I assume they are standard but I can't say for sure

That was awful damn nice of you to do that. I wish your crimper went to 1/4 diameter rope. It's what I'm using.

It does look like the holes aren't perfectly round. I kind of suspected that they might not be.

I guess I'd be just as well buying the off brand crimper. I looked at pictures of the "better" brands, and noticed that the casting numbers on the handles are the same as the off brand ones. They're all made in China, so I figure I might as well get cheap Chinese crap. Why pay a premium for a label.

By the looks of it, I'll be going through a lot of rope with this winch. It doesn't spool well. The line tends to crush other lines in the previous wrap around the drum. I never have had that problem with my big winch that I use to move trucks, and tractors. I'm thinking it's because the big winch uses a bit larger line, and it's a larger diameter drum that doesn't wrap like crazy for a few feet of line.

I completely unwound the cable, and re-spooled it..........but the damn stuff still doesn't wrap right when you put a load on it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hardwa...ope-61789.html

I'll pick up a few of these, and then go to Grainger for some ferrules, and thimbles. They're pretty reasonable. This way, I can make up a couple of ropes with hooks to have on the tractor. I can use the hooks from the two worn out come alongs that were the donors for the pulleys I'm using.

[farmersammm]

By the looks of the final result, it doesn't look very damn scientific to me

Looks like you pretty much just crush the crap out of it.........within reason

[52 Ford]

By the looks of the final result, it doesn't look very damn scientific to me

Looks like you pretty much just crush the crap out of it.........within reason

I had to crimp a bunch of 1/16" aluminum furrels on control cables for a rudder and a trolling motor. I just used ratcheting crimpers mean for electrical work. Did a heck of a job. Ugly, but it ain't going anywhere.

Edit: In fact, it looks fairly similar to the crimp in that picture.

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[Lis2323]

the holes for the crimper are perfectly round ( when jaws are partially open to accept the ferrule



drill holes slightly smaller than the diameter of a 1/4" rope ferrule in 1/2" bar stock. then slit it like this .....




then use a hydraulic press or bfh like whtbaron suggested.

[whtbaron]

Like I said, I've gotten away with just the vise and BFH...

[Lis2323]

Like I said, I've gotten away with just the vise and BFH...

*the one without the broken swivel, right?


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[whtbaron]

*the one without the broken swivel, right?


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lol.... might have been the one with the broken ACME rod....

[52 Ford]

lol.... might have been the one with the broken ACME rod....

ACME or square thread?

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[whtbaron]

hmmm.... probably square thread.... I looked it up a while ago and the rod and nut were going to cost half of a new decent vice.

[52 Ford]

hmmm.... probably square thread.... I looked it up a while ago and the rod and nut were going to cost half of a new decent vice.

Yeah. What you COULD do, is buy some threaded rod and a coupler nut and modify those to work.

Honestly, you don't NEED square or ACME threads on a vise. ACME is stronger than a regular 60 degree V thread, but the vise jaws are going to break long before the threads give up (ask me how I know).

Threaded Rods, 1/2"-13 Thread Size, 2 Feet Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/90322A156

Threaded Rods, 1/2"-13 Thread Size, 1-1/2" Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/96177A470

Drill Bits, 37/64" Size, 6-5/8" Overall Length

https://www.mcmaster.com/8870A51

Personally, instead of putting a handle on it, I'd weld a 1/2" socket to the end of the threaded rod, so you have a square drive and you can use a ratchet or a drill/impact to operate the vise.



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[whtbaron]

I considered that... still might do it some day, buy anyone I talked to that had used althread said it was so slow to open they regretted it.

[52 Ford]

I considered that... still might do it some day, buy anyone I talked to that had used althread said it was so slow to open they regretted it.

That's where the square drive comes in. You can have a wheel for a handle or put a drill on it. The main advantage to a finer pitch (like 1/2-13) is you get more mechanical advantage. More clamping load.

As someone who uses a pipe on the vise handle pretty often, I've considered doing that swap on one of my vise.

I built a press a few years ago that used a 1"-8 threaded screw and a big steering wheel off of a (Ford) tractor. I think 8TPI is a pretty good compromise between speed and clamping force. I did the math at the time. I think it worked out to be a 7.5ton press at 120Ft-Lb... or something like that. I just used it to form sheet metal.

I wanted a trowel to carry with me metal detecting, but didn't see one I liked for sale. I ended up making it out of sheet steel, then welded on saw teeth to one side, and made a handle out of aluminum tube with a diamond pattern on it.

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