Sorry If this is a dumb question but can I simply put an abrasive saw blade on this saw?
Not advised. An abrasive bladed saw runs at a different rpm than a dry cut or carbide saw.
If you decide to try it, check the rpm of the carbide saw and make sure the abrasive blade can handle the rpm.
Carbide saws are great if you use the right blade and tooth count for the material being cut.
I have had one for about 20 years and would buy another in a heartbeat.
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A new 72-tooth blade is only around $70 or so, depending on the quality you want. If that is going to break the bank, then this line of activity isn't for you. I personally prefer Diablo Cermet II blades, but I do have others that I have gotten good deals on, whether it be from Amazon or Ebay. Also, get a wax stick lubricant like this or similar. Generally not needed per say, but I prefer to use and personally believe it gives a little more longevity to the blade tips. It doesn't smear all that much, but it does have to be cleaned up/wiped off the part; I've made it part of my routine so it's not a task/chore anymore. A rag/shop towel with simple green is plenty to clean it up.
Sorry If this is a dumb question but can I simply put an abrasive saw blade on this saw?
Again, nothing is as simple as it seems. As the hard grain in an abrasive saw is scrapping the steel off, the metal warms and softens some, making it cut easier. The friction and heating depend on that speed being maintained, and the speed of an abrasive saw is roughly twice what your carbide-blade saw uses. In a pinch, using an abrasive blade in that saw will work but not nearly as well and it will be much slower and probably wear the abrasive blade much faster per amount cut.
Both types of saw have their purpose. I would suggest a new carbide blade for that one, assuming you still have need for cutting the appropriate materials.
Yes, cutting rebar that was too hard (rebar varies greatly) likely did the damage.
A good observation and the reason why although I have and love my dry cut saw I will NEVER get rid of the abrasive chop saw I purchased new over 40:years ago.
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I bought a used saw almost identical to that one and it has no power. It takes probably 15 minutes to make one cut through 2" round tubing 1/4" thickness.
I guess the motor must be toast.
I bought a used saw almost identical to that one and it has no power. It takes probably 15 minutes to make one cut through 2" round tubing 1/4" thickness.
I guess the motor must be toast.
By "No Power", do you mean the motor never gets up to speed, or slows down with little load, or just that the blade doesn't cut?
I have a 14" Makita that looks like that and does quite well; never had the need to open the motor section up and do any checking or work on it, but see no reason that couldn't be easily done in your case, assuming the motor is the problem, not the blade.
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I've not used that one, but I did get a 72-tooth Tomax brand (same price) as a back-up for whenever I end up sending my Diablo's out for re-sharpening. I like the 72-tooth configuration as it can still cut decently thin material (I think I've cut 14ga square tubing, nice and slow) and won't complain too much on the thicker stuff, but I also use stick kut wax lubricant every time.
I am mostly the operator and can really go a long time on a wheel and same for a 4 1/2 really. Salvaging with old welds is what really eats them, a little squaring, edge finish and rust scuff and they last. I understand other ways, if I was in new production would buy whatever it took. I finally regressed to this, come to a point said this is the way I am going to do it unless some other real reason happens, not against change but make up for its shortcomings with simplicity. Kind of like an adjustable wrench. Dont want to stock more, buy more, replace expensive pieces. . I got a bandsaw but use this first, plasma second and sawzall 3rd and even forget i even have anything else. Used a zip wheel on exhaust today but that is even down on the list a little.
What are you cutting that you get hundreds of cuts from an abrasive blade. The blade is consumed regardless of abuse or not. So If You cut 1/4” x 4in sq, then you may have blade life, but eventually lack the capacity to make the cut. With care my carbide blades last a long time.
I cut a 4 inch tube on occasion but so many simple little zing cuts on odd material couldn't even be done on more sophisticated saw. One of them would be ruined here, just like guy that started this thread. Like I said, other ways, better on more consistent material. Also the disclaimer was used,,, sometimes. If there was a better,, easier more economical way then I would do it.
Sure, different app. This looks like hobby salvage, a bunch of junk, rebar etc. Before the new ones were common seen liquid cooled in shops. No dust, relatively quiet, nice, too expensive for most diy and need to take decent care of it, not ram junk thru it.
By "No Power", do you mean the motor never gets up to speed, or slows down with little load, or just that the blade doesn't cut?
I have a 14" Makita that looks like that and does quite well; never had the need to open the motor section up and do any checking or work on it, but see no reason that couldn't be easily done in your case, assuming the motor is the problem, not the blade.
It slows down with little load. It gets up to speed fine before I try cutting, and it will cut well when the blade will stay spinning fast (like in thin material), so it's not the fault of the blade. I took the brushes out and they look ok but I'm not sure what else to check. I suppose it might need a new armature but who knows if they are even available for a 40 year old saw. A band saw is looking very appealing right now...
It slows down with little load. It gets up to speed fine before I try cutting, and it will cut well when the blade will stay spinning fast (like in thin material), so it's not the fault of the blade. I took the brushes out and they look ok but I'm not sure what else to check. I suppose it might need a new armature but who knows if they are even available for a 40 year old saw. A band saw is looking very appealing right now...
Was it a decent quality-brand machine? Any chance it isn't getting full voltage (or that it was designed to run on a higher voltage than you assumed), perhaps that the cord or plug have high resistance? Any signs of overheating of any of the coils, either in the armature or main body? Is the commutator clean with proper undercutting between segments?
If you're new to these aspects, you might search for information about motor repair before taking a closer look at it. .
I bought a used saw almost identical to that one and it has no power. It takes probably 15 minutes to make one cut through 2" round tubing 1/4" thickness.
I guess the motor must be toast.
Pop out the carbon brushes and see if they are worn down or hanging up.
Was it a decent quality-brand machine? Any chance it isn't getting full voltage (or that it was designed to run on a higher voltage than you assumed), perhaps that the cord or plug have high resistance? Any signs of overheating of any of the coils, either in the armature or main body? Is the commutator clean with proper undercutting between segments?
If you're new to these aspects, you might search for information about motor repair before taking a closer look at it. .
Makita, virtually identical to the one Lis posted. The sticker on it says 115 v AC or DC. I will check voltage at the brushes when it is running to make sure it's getting the correct voltage. I can't see inside the very well by just taking the end cover off, so I will have to disassemble it further to check those things. Thanks for the tips
Pop out the carbon brushes and see if they are worn down or hanging up.
I've had them out a couple times, they seem fine but I don't know how worn they are because I don't have a new one to compare to. When I have it further disassembled I will better be able to check that.
I've had them out a couple times, they seem fine but I don't know how worn they are because I don't have a new one to compare to. When I have it further disassembled I will better be able to check that.
Thanks
The point Dennis made was good. If the brushes are worn to the point where they don't make continuous contact, the motor can't develop the torque needed and it'll have arcing at the brushes too, causing erosion of the segments on the commutator. With the motor more fully disassembled, you should be able to determine if they have the needed free play left.
I've had them out a couple times, they seem fine but I don't know how worn they are because I don't have a new one to compare to. When I have it further disassembled I will better be able to check that.
Thanks
Usually you can tell by the feel of the spring compression. If it's not the brushes, then the stator is probably burnt out and the motor body gets very hot to the touch when you use it.
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Originally Posted by ngoodman@gmail.com
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I personally prefer Diablo Cermet II blades, but I do have others that I have gotten good deals on, whether it be from Amazon or Ebay. Also, get a wax stick lubricant like this or similar. Generally not needed per say, but I prefer to use and personally believe it gives a little more longevity to the blade tips. It doesn't smear all that much, but it does have to be cleaned up/wiped off the part; I've made it part of my routine so it's not a task/chore anymore. A rag/shop towel with simple green is plenty to clean it up.
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