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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
https://stockcarsteel.com/cold-rolle...018-2-1-2.html I buy a lot of DOM from these guys. Haven't for a while, but they're still my go to if need be. This might be the answer to your problems.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
[QUOTE=455dan;8885576]
These old machines may look like they are down and out and have countless hours on them, but for most farm work when they are up and running will flat put a new CUT to shame when Push comes to Shove.
ps. I will be da--ed if I will pay $600 for a couple pins!
Learning some more how to from this thread as well.[/QUOTE
Be thankful you aren't working on a combine. Neighbor just drove 8 hrs to pick up a shaft for $3400...
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Les
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
A VERY PLEASANT SURPRISE While finishing up lunch, I decided to go out, and roll the axle over(PITA without K'kins) in order to get started on the other side after lunch.
The heat from the molten slag caused the axle tube to expand enough to break whatever thin sliver of metal that was still holding the boss in. Whacked it a few times with a drift, and it definitely moves a tiny bit. Plan is to trim any remaining tube/slag below the surface..........then hit the axle tube with a rosebud to allow this piece to be driven out.
I might just eat the bear on this one
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Something like that where I have to be really careful with the parent metal, I've cut 4 slices from the inside with the sawzall and a hacksaw blade. Pops out with a hammer and chisel. Replace the muffler with a straight pipe and you won't hear a single rattle...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
May I Please Have Horseradish
With My Bear?
After melting, and flushing, all the slag beneath.............it still wouldn't move......so I slit it AND BINGO
This is a true bonus. I now have a very good index point for the new tube. All of the remaining slag was melted, and blown, out of the axle tube, and she's ready for a new tube. It's nice to actually be making some progress
(BTW.......that Colmans stuff is THE BOMB. I tried a jar of their mustard on a whim........now I'm addicted!!!!!! The horseradish sauce is probably too over the top for me, but their mustard contains a ton of horseradish. Clears your sinuses right out)
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
I'd don't know the temp where you're at Sam, but high of 94 here. It was brutal at work today.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Risk of frost here tonight.... not liking that either...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Originally Posted by
IAMsteelworker
I'd don't know the temp where you're at Sam, but high of 94 here. It was brutal at work today.
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I believe we (Central Oklahoma) made 98* today. It was a real experience with all that pile of molten slag a few inches from my beak
But, to be truthful......................... I'm in a position where I can go inside, and cool off when I start to really feel the heat. It's not like the guys that have no choice, but to put up with it for a full shift. I don't feel the heat as much when on the tractor, because the wind keeps you fairly cool to some extent, although you do get dehydrated after a while.
I used to think I was tough. Not anymore! You guys that work out in this every day are the tough ones.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Luckily I'm in maintenance,so if nothing breaks I'm usually in the climate controlled breakroom. But they're days you hardly get a chance to eat. Seems here lately to be the case.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Padding The Bill
The hole in the axle is 2 1/4".....the tubing is 2"............... I couldn't find any 2.25 tubing with the correct wall thickness, so it was one of those do as best as you can.
Only one side will be padded initially. This gets turned. Then the remaining side will be padded, and turned, using the first turning as the true axis.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
May I Please Have Horseradish
With My Bear?
(BTW.......that Colmans stuff is THE BOMB. I tried a jar of their mustard on a whim........now I'm addicted!!!!!! The horseradish sauce is probably too over the top for me, but their mustard contains a ton of horseradish. Clears your sinuses right out
)
Keen's is good too!
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Lots of old equipment here too. I do a lot of make do on older stuff when it will never see the service life it had when it was young and was bought and drove hard. Something worn out an inch and a guy removes 7/8 and it might not need to be in the 1000ths , taking some wear out, cutting new holes, most of it so crude I never use a machine tool. Put oversize pins in something the other day, fixed it right up. Guy asked if we put a new pin in some old crate the other day and helper said,,, absolutely not, he put some weld in worn spot, its back to 95% and I simply sand it to fit within few thou.
Put modern moly grease in it a time or 2 and you off to the races.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
This does not apply to Sam but some newer guys. There are times to rebuild things and times to fix them. Doesnt mean dont do a good job but a bud of mine on another journal started down the path of super maintainer and fixer of none and doesnt grasp the concept you want it to work, or need it, is the goal. He has a 15 yr old car. Needs a brake pad. Starts to study this and take a class and then "research" every posible which is best wheel bearing and caliper and soon has 2 grand in ultimate front end job took him 2 months and tranny shats the bed. Over the years learned to gracefully retire old cars with less new parts all the time, doesnt mean I didnt put a caliper in it the last couple months I drove it but just didnt rebuild the whole dam thing and have truck sitting in junk with complete new brakes.
I got a few pieces I go thru bumper to bumper and I now own them long enough it has paid off. Quit fixing a lot of stuyff on the last ride when it was time, quit changing the oil, so to speak. I have line item reman about 1/2 a dozen trucks, inspections the whole deal and every one ran a decade with minor service after that till they were obsolete.
When I was im my 30s painted everything with Imron, more sat outside and it paid off. Style changed, some I have great, some pieces 90% worn out and will still last to the end. My own style is composite, some reman, some service and shop has a lot of pit stop features built in. Not real sophisticated but can do a LOT of processes.
I continually second guess and try to remember, did something the other day I made a big deal of drilling then after i am done figure out how to torch a blank in a couple minutes instead of 2 hrs. I did couple loader pins recent. worn right out and I price and fuss and look and finally make a couple shield or bushings out of some xheavy pipe and weld them in, tru a couple reliefes with a hole saw for grease seal at 4$ from auto store, cut shims and washers with template with plasma and slobber it to the max with super grease.
While the service manual says .020 in the real world Joe been using it for the last 5 years with .75 hole worn out. I am really surprised at how close a guy can simply build and finish one side of a worn hole. I will have to see if I have a disk hitch tounge I did not so long ago and even made a hub was originally forged and assemble pre weld,, made it from a couple 3 nuts, cut a window in the backside to install it.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
At first it looked like a lot of work and low and behold most of it was egged out just perfect for next size up hole saw, battery drill and some new pins and was super tight and a size heavier than when it was new 50 yrs ago. When I finally decided to service it had a hole had worn to 7/8 with a bolt that started at 3/4.
Last edited by Sberry; 09-22-2022 at 06:46 PM.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Actually before that piece ever got that close to the lathe would get ground and sanded and see how close it came. Very worst thing is got to add a little weld back.
Last edited by Sberry; 09-22-2022 at 07:02 PM.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Actually before that piece ever got that close to the lathe woulf get ground and sanded and see how close it came. Very worst thing is got to add a little weld back.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
You are wasting your time farming if there is any market for fab/repair in your area. You would make 2x with 1/2 the work fixing that thing for hire as you could pulling something with it and investing more on top of that.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Got absolutely nothing done today Spent the bulk of the day on the road.
They told me over the phone that they had 1 3/8-12 plain, and 1-12 castellated, nuts. I get there, and all they have is coarse in the 1 3/8, and 1-14 in the castellated. This just added to the workload. The 1 3/8 have to have threaded assemblies made to accept them. I started off raising Hell about it, but changed midstream. I got to thinkin'.....................I'm an almost Cancer survivor(according to the PET scan on Monday, Doc said it looked good), don't know how much longer I'll be on the planet...........why make the poor dood behind the counter feel bad for something he has no control over. He can't help it that they don't have the right nuts. I made a gracious apology, and all was well with the world. Damn sight easier to be pleasant.
I needed the fine thread 1 3/8 for these boogers. I was only planning on remaking this one, but now I have to fabricate both(sigh)
I figure that as long as I'm in the Big Town, I might as well drop by the toy store Notice that I finally broke down and bought some thread files(I doubt I'll ever use them.......although I was contemplating using them on the second damaged thread on the other side of the axle stay). Pretty damn good haul for $130. We're lucky to have a good wholesale outlet for machine tools relatively close by. Seems like a lot of money, but one repair pays for the whole thing.
There's a fella there that is a pretty good drinker. Every day. Known him for a very long time. He's always getting in trouble because of it. I quit, except for one day a week, almost 12yrs ago, and have totally gone off it, except for special occasions now, due to the heart issues. Anyways.............I never preached to a soul in my life, and don't like those who do, but I like this guy, and talk about how much better things have been for over a decade...........and I leave it at that. He's cool with it, because he knows where I'm coming from. He'll lay off it one of these days I figure. Hate to see a good dood mess up his life.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
I was saying to 455Dan that you have to look for clues.
The threaded assembly in the prior post is very likely mild steel...................because it's welded to the solid round stock. Sure, you can weld some steels with special WP's, but in a manufacturing environment, they usually don't. It's about dollars, and cents, and failure rates.
And given the thread damage from pounding, it's an additional piece of evidence that the steel isn't anything special.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
"I made a gracious apology, and all was well with the world. Damn sight easier to be pleasant."
It's like my dear sweet old granny always told me, " If you can't say anything nice, just shut the f*** up..."
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
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Les
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
Got absolutely nothing done today
I started off raising Hell about it, but changed midstream. I got to thinkin'.....................I'm an almost Cancer survivor(according to the PET scan on Monday, Doc said it looked good), don't know how much longer I'll be on the planet...........why make the poor dood behind the counter feel bad for something he has no control over. He can't help it that they don't have the right nuts. I made a gracious apology, and all was well with the world. Damn sight easier to be pleasant.
and there it is.
I’m working hard on that concept myself.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
Now it's time to size the new tube, but I'm not sure how much clearance to leave between the tube ends, and the bolster. I forgot to measure the stickout before I cut it all apart...........and it wouldn't have been all that accurate anyhow. The axle has been slamming into the bolster for some time, and the tube ends were worn.
"new" Allis
"old" Allis
Both tractors have the axle situated in the middle of the gap, with free air one either end where it might contact the bolster.
All locating of the axle is done by the axle stay, where it bolts to the rear of the engine. This is the entire fore/aft means of controling the axle movement. So, I'm assuming the Oliver is supposed to be set up the same way. The bolster doesn't locate the axle......the axle stay does the work(might be why it's called a "stay" in the manual).
So, here's the rub(). The axle tube is 4.5" . The bolster gap is 5.375". I only have 7/8" to play with. This leaves me with 1/4" stickout on both sides of the axle, with only 3/8 left over for an air gap. They made this damn thing too precise. I only have 3/16 on either side of the axle tube for clearance. Which means that the axle stay will have to be fairly precise in its fit, to keep the gap. And, there's no provision for adjustment on the axle stay. I'll have to make an allowance for washers, and shims, when I rebuild the stay
This tractor has other odd things about it. The 3pt lift cylinder is inside the transmission, the hydraulic pump is inside the transmission, and the steering cylinder is inside the frame in an inaccessible area. They wanted a "clean" look at the expense of being able to easily work on the damn thing. There's virtually nothing on the Allis that can't be accessed from outside, without having to tear stuff apart to get to it. It might be why it was a popular tractor in these parts back in the day.
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Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement
So this was the setup The 3/4" boring bar is sticking out almost 6 1/2 inches from the toolpost, in order to be able to clear the steady rest with the lathe saddle. Absolutely ridiculous tool overhang for my puny little lathe. It did cause problems.
This is what chatter/harmonic vibration looks like. The boring bar will sing as it cuts. The only way to get around it is to slow the RPM's, and take a more shallow cut. 300 DAMN RPM, WITH .015 DEPTH OF CUT The original ID was 1.25", and had to be enlarged to 1.50 inches............... Wanna bet that took a while??
With Granny speed, and wimpy cuts................THE F'N CHIPS DON'T BREAK AND YOU GET THIS. Every pass, I had to use a length of rubber hose to poke this wad out of the bore. Oooooomph!!
VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So Heres The $64k Question...
Right now, I'm sittin' at .004 clearance between pin and bore. I've built them this tight before, but not on heavily loaded pins. I'm wondering if I have enough clearance for grease to get along the length of the pin. The bore is 5" long, with a centered grease hole cross drilled in the pin.
I've built them this tight before with no problems, but not on such a long bore, and not as heavily loaded as a pivot pin. I anticipate wear, which will enlarge the bore, but in the meantime.......................................... .