47 Lincoln SA200not getting gas

[mugzy]

My 47 Lincoln SA200 got stuck from non use for 20 yrs it sat. Got continental 163 freed up went thru most of the engine, rings, valve job, shaved head, rebuilt carb. It will run if I spray a little starting fluid in carb but won't suck up any gas. I soaked the carb over night, adjusted the float cleaned carb again, same thing. Rechecked valve settings. Hate to buy a new carb, expensive. Any thoughts on what I might try to do? Mugzy

[tadawson]

Have you checked the fuel lines? With age, they can swell internally and no longer flow.

(Or is the bowl full? You don't mention . . . )

[mugzy]

Have you checked the fuel lines? With age, they can swell internally and no longer flow.

(Or is the bowl full? You don't mention . . . )

I have a temporary small tank on, the bowl wasn't full enough so I adjusted the float a little and its almost up to the top. I watched the video about setting the valves a dozen times, could it be something with that. Its a hand crank, starts right away with either but doesn.t get gas. Plugs are bone dry. Until the motor got stuck it purred like a kitten.

[12V71]

I have a temporary small tank on, the bowl wasn't full enough so I adjusted the float a little and its almost up to the top. I watched the video about setting the valves a dozen times, could it be something with that. Its a hand crank, starts right away with either but doesn.t get gas. Plugs are bone dry. Until the motor got stuck it purred like a kitten.

If that's the case, you still have a plugged up carb. take it apart again and boil it in water for an hour or so to get that nasty gas residue loosened up. When that stuff turns to varnish a quick spray with carb cleaner doesn't get it done.

[duaneb55]

Check the inlet fitting. If original, it likely has a filter screen that may be clogged.

I also recommend a chemical carburetor/parts soak for 20-30 minutes followed by a warm, soapy water rinse and blow dry.

This is my go to for cleaning carburetors:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...+cleaner&pos=0

[mugzy]

Check the inlet fitting. If original, it likely has a filter screen that may be clogged.

I also recommend a chemical carburetor/parts soak for 20-30 minutes followed by a warm, soapy water rinse and blow dry.

This is my go to for cleaning carburetors:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...+cleaner&pos=0

Thanks for all the info. As far as I know carb inlet is original. The carb is spotless from all the cleaning but I will boil it and let you know how it goes. I'm a amateur welder but this machine made me look like I knew what I was doing. Thanks, mugzy

[Oldiron2]

I have a temporary small tank on, the bowl wasn't full enough so I adjusted the float a little and its almost up to the top. I watched the video about setting the valves a dozen times, could it be something with that. Its a hand crank, starts right away with either but doesn.t get gas. Plugs are bone dry. Until the motor got stuck it purred like a kitten.

Is the normal fuel tank mounted above the carburetor, or is mounted below and a pump on the engine is responsible for getting the fuel to the carb? Is the temporary tank now mounted above the carb so fuel drains to it, and are you sure all the lines between the tank and carb are clear?

What make and model is the carburetor, do you have a schematic showing its breakdown, and have you checked it for small, hidden fuel passages that could be plugged and might not be easily noticed? Could you post pictures of it, both as a complete unit and showing the disassembled parts where passages, etc. are?

[mugzy]

carb is a marvel schebler #239 on it. Original tank goes above the carb and temp tank is above the carb. Carb is boiling right now. I did find 2 little holes (ports) coming into the throat of the carb that I didn't see before. One hole had a rust ball in the opening. I got it out in the sun to find them. I had soaked carb in gal of gunk parts cleaner for 24 hrs and thought that would have dissolved all rust and gunk. I'll see how things go when I get done boiling. Thanks, these 2 passages were definitely hidden.

[Oldiron2]

carb is a marvel schebler #239 on it....I did find 2 little holes (ports) coming into the throat of the carb that I didn't see before. One hole had a rust ball in the opening. .... Thanks, these 2 passages were definitely hidden.

I have an old Schebler that had been removed an early farmsite powerplant from perhaps the 1920's, the engine/generator having been destroyed when the original house burned few years later.
Anyway, a quick search found the following information (on This page) copied below, for your unit. The website page is somewhat larger and clearer. Notice that at the bottom of the page under the breakdown picture, it shows three types of jet having been used.

[mugzy]

I have an old Schebler that had been removed an early farmsite powerplant from perhaps the 1920's, the engine/generator having been destroyed when the original house burned few years later.
Anyway, a quick search found the following information (on This page) copied below, for your unit. The website page is somewhat larger and clearer. Notice that at the bottom of the page under the breakdown picture, it shows three types of jet having been used.

I put carb back on, wouldn't go so small either shot and it started, quit, so I wet a rag with gas and stuck in end of carb and it ran until it used up that gas. Tried that again, ran until rag was dry, quit. That was first run in about 25yrs. Took off gas line, gas runs out of gas line into coffee can. So gas is flowing, for some reason carb isn't functioning. There is one small jet down in a 1/4inch hole that I haven't been able to get loose, maybe thats the culprit.

[mugzy]

If that's the case, you still have a plugged up carb. take it apart again and boil it in water for an hour or so to get that nasty gas residue loosened up. When that stuff turns to varnish a quick spray with carb cleaner doesn't get it done.

I boiled it, might have do it again. It runs with a wet gassy rag stuck in the carb until rag dries out and then quits. Still doesn't want to get gas.

[Sberry]

You have to take the needles out and blow it with hi pressure air.

[Sberry]

If it wont run after cleaning its something you dun or didnt do. It doesnt need a new carb unless u busticated it but you need to get all the jets or bleeds out, blow with hi air. Only 2 that were is relative working order ever needed a part, needle on one and someone busted the air horn on reassembly on another.

[12V71]

You have to take the needles out and blow it with hi pressure air.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that part. Blow both ways to make sure the passages are clear, including the fuel inlet to the float needle.
And if it was reassembled without the plastic air horn it will not draw fuel.

[duaneb55]

There's a passageway to the main jet in the very bottom of the bowl that gets plugged with sediment/debris such that you can't even make it out so be sure to inspect that area.

[mugzy]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that part. Blow both ways to make sure the passages are clear, including the fuel inlet to the float needle.
And if it was reassembled without the plastic air horn it will not draw fuel.

I'm stumped on the plastic air horn. I'm not sure what that part is. I will have to find a better screw driver to get the one small needle valve out. There are so few parts in there. I used brake cleaner spray can with red long spray nozzle and watched the spray come out the different holes. I don't think any of the parts are buggered up.

[mugzy]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that part. Blow both ways to make sure the passages are clear, including the fuel inlet to the float needle.
And if it was reassembled without the plastic air horn it will not draw fuel.

Don't recall any plastic in there. My guess is that must be the problem. I don't know what the plastic air horn is. The original float was loaded with gas, had a hole in it. machine was in my barn all winter and I tried turning it over and engine was stuck. I got it broke loose after 20 yrs and couldn't get it going so I left it for 5 yrs more. I'm 73 and thought I better get it going. Will look at diagram that was posted. thanks, mugzy

[12V71]

I'm stumped on the plastic air horn. I'm not sure what that part is. I will have to find a better screw driver to get the one small needle valve out. There are so few parts in there. I used brake cleaner spray can with red long spray nozzle and watched the spray come out the different holes. I don't think any of the parts are buggered up.

Part number 12 in the diagram.

[mugzy]

Part number 12 in the diagram.

thats what I figured it has to be. My venturi (plastic air horn) is brass. There is a small crack in brass on bottom end, might be part of the problem. Have to find small screw driver to get #15 out. May be dirt beyond that. Haven't been able break that loose. Its been nice to hear it run, even if the gas is coming off a wet rag.

[12V71]

thats what I figured it has to be. My venturi (plastic air horn) is brass. There is a small crack in brass on bottom end, might be part of the problem. Have to find small screw driver to get #15 out. May be dirt beyond that. Haven't been able break that loose. Its been nice to hear it run, even if the gas is coming off a wet rag.

Before you try to get those brass jet screws out, go get a long reach torch tip cleaner and gently probe the passages. But for whatever reason, you are not getting gas to the bowl, if the bowl is full it should at least try to fire with the choke on.

[Oldiron2]

thats what I figured it has to be. My venturi (plastic air horn) is brass. There is a small crack in brass on bottom end, might be part of the problem. Have to find small screw driver to get #15 out. May be dirt beyond that. Haven't been able break that loose. Its been nice to hear it run, even if the gas is coming off a wet rag.

Sometimes putting the unit in an ultrasonic washer for five minutes can break screws and other stuck stuff loose. Know anyone who has one you could use?

A good soft-soldering job can often fix cracks without jeopardizing the part.

[mugzy]

Before you try to get those brass jet screws out, go get a long reach torch tip cleaner and gently probe the passages. But for whatever reason, you are not getting gas to the bowl, if the bowl is full it should at least try to fire with the choke on.

Will get some longer tip cleaners. The jet that won't loosen up is down in there a ways, will try tip cleaner. I can carefully take carb off, hold it level, take the 4 screws out that hold top and bottom together and the gas bowl is about full. Has to be blocked in the jet that won't come out. Last night I put spray can tip in there and it blew back at me so will work on that. thanks again, mugzy

[duaneb55]

Have you checked the passage in the bottom o the bowl that feeds the main jet I mentioned in post #15? Common to see this plugged with rust and sediment.

[mugzy]

I checked all the passages, all seem to be clean, spray in one end and it comes out other end. probed every where today. I'm walking away from it for awhile. I guess I'm frustrated. I put a different float in and needle and seat today and still no luck. I will try and find new jets, they don't come with carb kit. I want to thank everyone for the help and advise. The welding web has been great. Mugzy

[duaneb55]

The passage I'm referring to is behind plugs #28 and #29 in the diagram and opens to both sides of the "wall" in the bottom of the float bowl.