Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 76 to 95 of 95

Thread: exhaust repair

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    thank you for your opinions.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    I have a digital meter for my auto repairs.... but don't actually know how to use it .
    I've only used it to read battery voltage.
    you could say I"ve got all the gear but no idea.
    It's the same as checking battery voltage. Connect the main/red/positive lead from the digital meter to the Positive terminal on the welder and the black/COM lead to the negative terminal. Undo the pressure roller so it doesn't feed wire, and squeeze the trigger to energize the output. Current will not flow (just as it does not when checking battery voltage), but you will be able to see the applied voltage and the polarity. If the polarity is reversed, you will see a negative "-" sign in front of the number on your digital meter.
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  3. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Ok , but what do I set the meter to ?
    I'll try it.

    Just did a butt joint, what a difference.

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    I got -69.9 negative.
    Does that explain anything ?

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    I got -69.9 negative.
    Does that explain anything ?
    Was the positive lead from your multimeter connected to the positive terminal on the welder? Remember that your digital meter has to have the leads connected to it properly as well.
    Last edited by Oscar; 5 Days Ago at 11:31 PM.
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  6. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    The ground clamp was connected to the POS so I put the red wire from meter in the ground clamp.
    Black test lead went into the mig gun, which was connected to NEG.
    And then I pulled the trigger. Minus 69.9.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    The ground clamp was connected to the POS so I put the red wire from meter in the ground clamp.
    Black test lead went into the mig gun, which was connected to NEG.
    And then I pulled the trigger. Minus 69.9.
    If the red wire from the meter was plugged into the meter in it's correct port, then that confirms my suspicion that the polarity is reversed inside the machine. Are you "positive" the meter's red wire is plugged into where it's supposed to be (on the meter)?
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  8. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    I just went to the garage to look, yes the meter wiring is correct. So its wired up in reverse.

    Previously I owned a lincoln 125 mig so I'm not unfamiliar with how a mig should perform.

    Pic is what I was getting vs what I did last nite in the vice jaws, both just got a wire brush but one needs a jackhammer.

    Name:  20220927_224256.jpg
Views: 92
Size:  133.3 KB

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,651
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    I see it has wire feed speed trim -10 to +10

    When you select manual wire feed from button #5 that doesn't make #7 control wire feed speed ? What is #5 manual feed for ?


    Check out that voltage adapter at 00:20

    Last edited by danielplace; 4 Days Ago at 09:09 AM.

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    "I see it has wire feed speed trim -10 to +10"

    I don't see that anywhere. They've changed the labeling on the front cover since this review.
    It has inductance which affects weld profile, from raised to flat bead. I think its a magnetic field.

    Voltage can be adjusted independent from the auto settings, maybe that does the same thing as wire speed from a different direction.
    If I can't increase wire speed, would lowering the voltage slightly accomplish the same thing.

    #5 manual feed is for loading the gun liner without energizing the weld circuit.

    Good call on the polarity BTW, can't even trust the labels on the control panel.
    Last edited by jonesg; 4 Days Ago at 11:10 AM.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    I just went to the garage to look, yes the meter wiring is correct. So its wired up in reverse.
    Well there you go. Now you know that the initial reversal you did that produced better results resulted on actually setting the flux cored wire in it's actual correct polarity. So at least you can make that correction and move on to address the other issues.
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  12. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Decided to try a butt joint with inner sleeve fitted.
    Is the bead good enough yet.?
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    2,832
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    Decided to try a butt joint with inner sleeve fitted.
    Is the bead good enough yet.?
    Just curious - are you looking for "just good enough" or are you trying to make it as good of a weld as you can?

    Edit; make a series of tack welds instead of a long bead.

    Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk

  14. Likes Oscar liked this post
  15. #89
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    jonesg,

    I really would like to thank you again just for having the balls to post up your pictures. Can't even count how many times people ask for help and say "not gonna post a picture, but please do tell me what I'm doing wrong" At the risk of sounding hypocritical because I don't do gasless flux-cored tube welding, most welders will still tell you still have a long way to go. You are combining two very difficult welding aspects into one: A) gas-less flux cored welding that, even when on the correct DCEN Polarity, produces more spatter, smoke and fumes than the volcanic eruption of Mt Vesuvius that buried Pompeii in 79AD, which drastically reduces visibility, ruins outer clear lenses on helmets and B) welding round tubing/pipe that exponentially increases the required hand/arm motor-control dexterity requirements of the operator thereby necessitating vastly superior technique that only comes by way of lots of seat time practicing. That being said, don't give up on high-standards and don't settle.
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  16. Likes 52 Ford liked this post
  17. #90
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    jonesg,

    I really would like to thank you again just for having the balls to post up your pictures. Can't even count how many times people ask for help and say "not gonna post a picture, but please do tell me what I'm doing wrong" At the risk of sounding hypocritical because I don't do gasless flux-cored tube welding, most welders will still tell you still have a long way to go. You are combining two very difficult welding aspects into one: A) gas-less flux cored welding that, even when on the correct DCEN Polarity, produces more spatter, smoke and fumes than the volcanic eruption of Mt Vesuvius that buried Pompeii in 79AD, which drastically reduces visibility, ruins outer clear lenses on helmets and B) welding round tubing/pipe that exponentially increases the required hand/arm motor-control dexterity requirements of the operator thereby necessitating vastly superior technique that only comes by way of lots of seat time practicing. That being said, don't give up on high-standards and don't settle.

    Compounded by not being able to see anything beyond the arc, running a butt joint seam is literally all guesswork.
    My better (cheap) helmet died and the new one (even cheaper) is completely useless.

    I built a T top for my boat 12 years ago using 2" elec conduit , used a lincoln 125v mig using flux core.
    I don't recall visibility ever being an issue, I got it done after learning how not to blow holes.
    The plan was to build a second version from alum, bought a tig and plasma cutter , sold the lincoln...but then had to sell the boat.

    I'd say T joints on round pipe on my knees on asphalt was trickier for me than butt joining round pipe .

    Name:  upright.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  68.4 KBName:  boatresto012.jpg
Views: 46
Size:  11.3 KBName:  boatresto014-1.jpg
Views: 46
Size:  33.5 KB
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  18. Likes 52 Ford liked this post
  19. #91
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    2,832
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    Compounded by not being able to see anything beyond the arc, running a butt joint seam is literally all guesswork.
    My better (cheap) helmet died and the new one (even cheaper) is completely useless.

    I built a T top for my boat 12 years ago using 2" elec conduit , used a lincoln 125v mig using flux core.
    I don't recall visibility ever being an issue, I got it done after learning how not to blow holes.
    The plan was to build a second version from alum, bought a tig and plasma cutter , sold the lincoln...but then had to sell the boat.

    I'd say T joints on round pipe on my knees on asphalt was trickier for me than butt joining round pipe .

    Name:  upright.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  68.4 KBName:  boatresto012.jpg
Views: 46
Size:  11.3 KBName:  boatresto014-1.jpg
Views: 46
Size:  33.5 KB
    What hood do you have? Maybe I could recommend a good (and cheap!) replacement lens. I recently bought a replacement AD lens off of Amazon for under $20 and for sub-150A welds, it's nice. The draw back, not that it's a problem for me (at this price and for what I use it for), is that shade 13 looks more like shade 10 and shade 9 is more like shade 6. In other words, the shade 9-13 hood is more like a 6 to 10 hood. Great visibility, though! Gave new life to my first welding hood. Still has the same sweat band :') . Actually, I'm not sure about that... I changed the headgear a while ago. Anyway, I've been using it for the past few months and I've liked it.

  20. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by 52 Ford View Post
    What hood do you have? Maybe I could recommend a good (and cheap!) replacement lens. I recently bought a replacement AD lens off of Amazon for under $20 and for sub-150A welds, it's nice. The draw back, not that it's a problem for me (at this price and for what I use it for), is that shade 13 looks more like shade 10 and shade 9 is more like shade 6. In other words, the shade 9-13 hood is more like a 6 to 10 hood. Great visibility, though! Gave new life to my first welding hood. Still has the same sweat band :') . Actually, I'm not sure about that... I changed the headgear a while ago. Anyway, I've been using it for the past few months and I've liked it.
    my first hood was a $60 longevity hood, it did the trick but no longer works. I could see beyond the puddle.

    Second hood is a $23 monster and master , Its ok for stick, maybe stick throws more light, I just can't see beyond the puddle in mig mode. Gets good reviews.

    I was considering AD goggles inside the hood, remove the AD system, leave the clear front lense to keep sparks out of the hood.

    Can you give me the link to that lens, I'll try it for the price, at least I'll know whether its the hood or my eyes failing.

  21. #93
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Laredo, Tx
    Posts
    6,668
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    Compounded by not being able to see anything beyond the arc, running a butt joint seam is literally all guesswork......


    I don't recall visibility ever being an issue,
    You definitely lost me here
    1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



  22. #94
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    You definitely lost me here
    when i built the T top , visibility wasn't an issue. The hood I used at the time is now broke, doesn't respond.


    The welder is doing funny stuff again, I can't tack a butt joint without blowing holes every time the trigger is pulled, this is a joint with no gap,
    it reacts like its running at 120+ amps but its set to 80 amp.
    I'm done with it.
    I took advantage of the 30 day return policy at amazon, printed out a return label and UPS will pick it up.
    I'll look for something else.

    Famous last words, "Never shoulda sold that lincoln".

  23. Likes Oscar liked this post
  24. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    2,832
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: exhaust repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jonesg View Post
    when i built the T top , visibility wasn't an issue. The hood I used at the time is now broke, doesn't respond.


    The welder is doing funny stuff again, I can't tack a butt joint without blowing holes every time the trigger is pulled, this is a joint with no gap,
    it reacts like its running at 120+ amps but its set to 80 amp.
    I'm done with it.
    I took advantage of the 30 day return policy at amazon, printed out a return label and UPS will pick it up.
    I'll look for something else.

    Famous last words, "Never shoulda sold that lincoln".
    This might not be the exact one I bought, but I'm pretty sure they're all the same at this price. https://www.amazon.com/Darkening-Wel...Q%3D%3D&sr=8-6

    ORRRR just go pick up a Harbor Freight hood. They work fine.



    Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 1,664,800,415.76910 seconds with 14 queries