What do I use to weld this cast iron

[MetalMan23]

This is a wheel for an excavator track, I have to build up the middle ridge so that the excavator track won't keep slipping off. This is some sort of cast what do I use to weld it? I was thinking about wrapping a flat bar around the wheel and welding it on. What do I use, 7018, dual shield, or regular mig wire? Any ideas?

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[12V71]

Should be steel. And that idler won't hold the track? Looks pretty good from here.
I think the track is worn enough it can't be tensioned properly.

[MetalMan23]

I hit it with the grinder in it showed yellow Sparks like it was cast iron or something

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[StandarDyne]

Should be steel.

That would be my guess, too. Never had any problems with cast steel.

[MetalMan23]

Well I guess it could be cashed steel to be honest I wouldn't know the difference between cast steel and cast iron

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[metalman21]

Is there another one of those on the other side of the machine? What does that one look like? I'm no excavator mechanic but I question why that track comes off, and if making that center ridge thicker is the best fix. Could be wrong, IDK.

[MetalMan23]

I don't know wnything about thesef machines, but that's what the customer ordered lol, and he says he'll bring the other one once I'm done with this one

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[farmersammm]

Drill a small hole somewhere. If it puts out curly chips that are long, it's steel. If it puts out either tiny granules, or really small chips, it's cast iron/semi steel.

Cast.........use high nickel rod. Steel............use anything you'd normally use.

[SweetMK]

Did the owner look into replacement wheels??
The aftermarket wheels are relatively cheap,,
My nephew is as cheap as they come, and he replaced the wheels, as a low cost alternative to welding,,,,,,,,,,

[12V71]

I don't know wnything about thesef machines, but that's what the customer ordered lol, and he says he'll bring the other one once I'm done with this one

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The customer is always right, But I've done a pile of track work over the years and I'm betting he's got bigger problems.

[Oldiron2]

The customer is always right, But I've done a pile of track work over the years and I'm betting he's got bigger problems.

If he is correct, a shrink-fit band might be fine, after cleaning everything well and maybe using a few plug welds as insurance. If he isn't right, asking lots of questions to bring out other possible problems, like excessive wear in joints leading to a loose track, or damaged components causing the track to ride up in places...might allow him to fix them and not pay for unneeded work he'll be pissed about later.

[12V71]

If he is correct, a shrink-fit band might be fine, after cleaning everything well and maybe using a few plug welds as insurance. If he isn't right, asking lots of questions to bring out other possible problems, like excessive wear in joints leading to a loose track, or damaged components causing the track to ride up in places...might allow him to fix them and not pay for unneeded work he'll be pissed about later.

No to the band, weld build up only, the band will get pounded loose and then you have 8' of steel bar tangled up in the track rail/chain. seen it done before and I was the one that had to cut that junk out.
Odds are that the pins and bushings in the track rails are shot, when that happens the track will snake side to side and nothing but tension will hold it on the machine but by that time you run out of tensioner travel. A quarter inch of wear per pin X 45 links is how much additional length? Been there.

[CAVEMANN]

I can't imagine ANYTHING subjected to what that wheel & yoke goes through being cast iron, it's gonna be a weldment, cast steel or forged steel and may contain some manganese. You will know the difference between cast steel and cast iron, 7018 would be a good choice, I'd give it some preheat.

[Boostinjdm]

Should be steel. And that idler won't hold the track? Looks pretty good from here.
I think the track is worn enough it can't be tensioned properly.

I'm with this guy. Tensioner probably out of travel and track never gets tight.

[12V71]

My last track job last December, $60K in parts alone.

[smithdoor]

Use small drill and drill into wheel. If make a powder then it is cast iron . If get nice chip then steel

Dave

Well I guess it could be cashed steel to be honest I wouldn't know the difference between cast steel and cast iron

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[MetalMan23]

No to the band, weld build up only, the band will get pounded loose and then you have 8' of steel bar tangled up in the track rail/chain. seen it done before and I was the one that had to cut that junk out.
Odds are that the pins and bushings in the track rails are shot, when that happens the track will snake side to side and nothing but tension will hold it on the machine but by that time you run out of tensioner travel. A quarter inch of wear per pin X 45 links is how much additional length? Been there.

They are rubber tracks he said

Does that make a difference?

So you think the band is a bad idea? Building up with weld is better?

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[smithdoor]

Sounds great.

Dave

My last track job last December, $60K in parts alone.

[12V71]

They are rubber tracks he said

Does that make a difference?

So you think the band is a bad idea? Building up with weld is better?

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It could work with rubber if it's welded well... Maybe. But now I'm thinking the guides on the rubber band tracks are bad. It's funny because the tread wear on that Idler screams steel track to me.
Oh, the steel cords in rubber tracks stretch too.

[MetalMan23]

Well I guess i could weld it and see what happens, in my experience people don't like to change their opinion on what the problem is


I don't have a lot of experience with this type of stuff

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[52 Ford]

If it's cast iron, wouldn't the correct repair be to pad it with nickel or some other cast iron compatable rod, then cap that with wearfacing?

If it's cast steel, why pad it with 7018 instead of wearface?

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[12V71]

Well I guess i could weld it and see what happens, in my experience people don't like to change their opinion on what the problem is


I don't have a lot of experience with this type of stuff

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Since we now know it's got rubber tracks, it could indeed be a cast iron Idler. Do the tests and find out.

[12V71]

If it's cast iron, wouldn't the correct repair be to pad it with nickel or some other cast iron compatable rod, then cap that with wearfacing?

If it's cast steel, why pad it with 7018 instead of wearface?

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With steel tracks hardfacing is a no-no, it eats the track chains.

[Oldiron2]

Well I guess i could weld it and see what happens, in my experience people don't like to change their opinion on what the problem is


I don't have a lot of experience with this type of stuff

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Part of his response is likely to depend on how he is approached. If he knows you don't claim to be an expert and you don't start by telling him he's wrong, but you make him know you want him to be sure about what needs to be done, and maybe help him figure it all out, he's more likely to try to think it all through.

[scsmith42]

Should be steel. And that idler won't hold the track? Looks pretty good from here.
I think the track is worn enough it can't be tensioned properly.

My thoughts as well. That idler wheel does not appear to need building up.