Never seen anything like this.

[Tbones]

[Woznme]

There's been stoopid vids like that around for years.
I'm told in ww2 shipyards building liberties, the girls and guys had triangular frames that held the rods on point while they burned down. That way one welder could keep multiple rods running and just jumped from one stinger to the next replacing rods as needed.

[Roert42]

That must be that magical 7014 I keep hearing about. Just lay the rod down and it welds itself.

[whtbaron]

Is it just me, or did that not seem slower than if you had been manipulating the rod?

[smithdoor]

I seen that with E7024.
If everything is right the flux almost falls off.

Dave

[Louie1961]

Really? You never saw Jody Collier do this? Jump ahead to 7:45 in this video

[tapwelder]

Isn't that like submerged arc???

[52 Ford]

This was the video that played after that magical welding trick...

Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.

[52 Ford]

Oops.....

[whtbaron]

This was the video that played after that magical welding trick...

Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?

[52 Ford]

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?

I was going to comment on that, too.

From what I understand (don't quote me on this - been a while since I heard this), a more acute point angle is helpful for soft materials like plastic.... for... reasons? I dunno.

I will say that I've ground radii onto the ends of twist drills to make form cutters (punches for heading rivets) with good success. Doubt that's what the weirdo twist drill in the video is for.

Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk

[tapwelder]

Maybe he just wanted a taper hole?

[52 Ford]

Maybe he just wanted a taper hole?

Seems misguided. If he REALLY wants to tap'er hole, he aught to try taking 'er our for dinner.

[Roert42]

Steeper angle on the drill bit is less aggressive. Nice for drilling harder to drill metals like stainless, binds up less because it bights less.
I could also see it being good for plastics to help the plastic from cracking. I normally just use a worn out drill bit when I work with plastic, spin up the rpm and just let it rub it's way through.

Wider angle is more aggressive and will cut faster, nice for Aluminum or mild steel.


At least that is what I have been basing the angle of my drill bits on.

[smithdoor]

I have try that for hand drilling 9/16".
It works but it full torque and fast.
Very hard to re-sharpen

Dave

This was the video that played after that magical welding trick...

Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?

[Bob E.]

I've shaped a drill bit something like that before so I could use it as a center punch.

[CAVEMANN]

Steeper angle on the drill bit is less aggressive. Nice for drilling harder to drill metals like stainless, binds up less because it bights less.
I could also see it being good for plastics to help the plastic from cracking. I normally just use a worn out drill bit when I work with plastic, spin up the rpm and just let it rub it's way through.

Wider angle is more aggressive and will cut faster, nice for Aluminum or mild steel.


At least that is what I have been basing the angle of my drill bits on.

Not correct, with nearly 15 years in an industrial machine shop, that kind of point is intended for softer materials like wood, we ALWAYS used bits with significantly flatter points than the standard 118* point for drilling stainless and other hardplate, run em slow with a LOT of feed, 118 * is kind of a "catch all" compromise for a drill point.

[StandarDyne]

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?

So that it takes four hours to drill the hole? (Cut speed in inches/second on that pencil point is gonna be SLOOOOOOOOOOW even at the highest rpm...)

When it does grab ... WATCH OUT!

[tapwelder]

Inch/second sounds like it could be a good thing?

I was thinking it is a good way to get flared opening with ours setting up the lathe to do the taper. My first thought was some type of burner nozzle.

[Roert42]

Not correct, with nearly 15 years in an industrial machine shop, that kind of point is intended for softer materials like wood, we ALWAYS used bits with significantly flatter points than the standard 118* point for drilling stainless and other hardplate, run em slow with a LOT of feed, 118 * is kind of a "catch all" compromise for a drill point.

I wasn't referring to that drill bit specifically.

If I'm sharpening a bit for stainless, I may bring the angle to 110* or so, and if I'm working with something soft I may go a little flatter.

When you resharpen your drill bits you can do whatever you like, your not stuck with what you can get off McMasterCarr.

[CAVEMANN]

I wasn't referring to that drill bit specifically.

If I'm sharpening a bit for stainless, I may bring the angle to 110* or so, and if I'm working with something soft I may go a little flatter.

When you resharpen your drill bits you can do whatever you like, your not stuck with what you can get off McMasterCarr.

I won't argue the point, we had to sharpen bits up to 4 inch, a flatter point is better on hard steels and stainless.