I have a 60qt stainless steel stock pot that I'd like to weld a drain into. Can someone give me a heads up on what kind of issues I may run into? All i have is a stick and mig machine if that matters.
Stick maybe depending on skill level. Those are not heavy and you need gas bottle to weld with other processes. Way I might do that is get it all fit and find someone to tig it on. Someone does this regular that wont make a mess.
What you using the pot for? Does it need to keep its stainless qualities? Might need passivation when welding is complete? Might yet oxidation on on the inside? What type stick welder? Tig may be an option. Silicon bronze might be a filler to use. A roll of silicon bronze might the same as a tig setup if you have a dc welder.
You are going to have all sorts of problems with the process you suggested, like sugaring. I would recommend that something like that be silver soldered.
What you using the pot for? Does it need to keep its stainless qualities? Might need passivation when welding is complete? Might yet oxidation on on the inside? What type stick welder? Tig may be an option. Silicon bronze might be a filler to use. A roll of silicon bronze might the same as a tig setup if you have a dc welder.
Key information, what will you use it for???
Probably a mix of cooking with oil and water. So it will need to be food safe and withstand 400 deg temps.
Brazing with the right filler, atmosphere and flux type would work fine and have good corrosion resistance.
You'd have to do a bunch of research if using a brazing rod like Silver Solder on something that will come into contact with food though I think. Some of those "all-purpose" rods have stuff like lead, cadmium and phosphorus in them. Silicon Bronze is allowed to have some % of lead in it as well, although it's pretty low so it might not be a big deal.
I think the cadmium free fillers use zinc instead which I'd imagine is probably food safe. It might not hold up to acidic or salty foods though. Probably be fine if cleaned and kept dry or coated in oil when not in use?
The best solution is probably to have someone who works with stainless a lot either braze or TIG weld it. They'll be able select a compatible filler rod and have some idea of which process is the best to use to get you the results you want. They should have the ability to purge the backside of the weld to prevent oxidation if going the TIG route and know how to weld it in a way that doesn't excessively compromise corrosion resistance.
If there's a microbrewery or distillery near you go ask them who did all their weld work and if they have any problems with corrosion. That'll tell you the name of the nearest outfit who works with food grade stainless/copper and how good they are at it.
Thanks everyone. I was afraid that it would be more of a project than expected. I may see if there are any gasket style fittings that will work rather than welding something in.
Good question from woznme. Will the drain go in the bottom or side? If bottom, then welding might easier/ more doable per your experience. Perhaps, Even tapable.
Its an 18 Ga.wall thickness, and an arc sprayed aluminum clad bottom. Are you planning on using this as a deep fryer, and a stock pot ? Most of the stock pots that Vollrath sells with valves, are aluminum. Most of all the brew posts are stainless with valves, and have a thermometer and both are usually rated for 250 deg F. Most people that use stock pots as deep fryers use a dedicated portable pump to remove oil when it around 100 to 120 deg F. Most of the valves don't have gaskets, valve seals that are rated for 400 deg F. Most of the valves I've seen are done with bulkhead fittings/gaskets, and curved washer. It is possible to mig, and or stick weld a stainless weld on threaded fitting to put a valve , but TIG welding is usually the industry standard. The biggest issue from the food grade stance is not being able to weld the inside to prevent crevices where bacteria can be washed/sanitized properly. Have you ever welded a stainless fitting onto a 18 ga. stainless curve surface. It can be challenging, and definitely is something you would want to practice before trying on an expensive stock pot. Take a look around amazon, and restaurant equipment places. I know its a welding site but there might be better options.
best of luck
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Assuming the fitting would need to mount on the side (to keep the bottom flat), a threaded fitting might be the easiest, if nothing suitable can be purchased. One could machine seals for both the inside and outside having one flat side and one with the curvature of the wall, either from soft copper or some appropriate polymer (food-safe and heat-resistant), so thread pressure would seal properly, when assembled.
Assuming the fitting would need to mount on the side (to keep the bottom flat), a threaded fitting might be the easiest, if nothing suitable can be purchased. One could machine seals for both the inside and outside having one flat side and one with the curvature of the wall, either from soft copper or some appropriate polymer (food-safe and heat-resistant), so thread pressure would seal properly, when assembled.
Its an 18 Ga.wall thickness, and an arc sprayed aluminum clad bottom. Are you planning on using this as a deep fryer, and a stock pot ? Most of the stock pots that Vollrath sells with valves, are aluminum. Most of all the brew posts are stainless with valves, and have a thermometer and both are usually rated for 250 deg F. Most people that use stock pots as deep fryers use a dedicated portable pump to remove oil when it around 100 to 120 deg F. Most of the valves don't have gaskets, valve seals that are rated for 400 deg F. Most of the valves I've seen are done with bulkhead fittings/gaskets, and curved washer. It is possible to mig, and or stick weld a stainless weld on threaded fitting to put a valve , but TIG welding is usually the industry standard. The biggest issue from the food grade stance is not being able to weld the inside to prevent crevices where bacteria can be washed/sanitized properly. Have you ever welded a stainless fitting onto a 18 ga. stainless curve surface. It can be challenging, and definitely is something you would want to practice before trying on an expensive stock pot. Take a look around amazon, and restaurant equipment places. I know its a welding site but there might be better options.
best of luck
Thanks for the info.
Yes, I'll be using it for deep frying as well as a stock pot. I have a pump that I use for my other pots, but thought if I could add a valve easily enough I would. Unfortunately my original concerns were confirmed.
I'll search the web and see if I can find a threaded valve that is made for this.
Yes, I'll be using it for deep frying as well as a stock pot. I have a pump that I use for my other pots, but thought if I could add a valve easily enough I would. Unfortunately my original concerns were confirmed.
I'll search the web and see if I can find a threaded valve that is made for this.
I think finding the fittings is the better option. Sure it might leak or need a new gasket over time but it's unlikely to ruin the pot or it's corrosion resistance like attempting to weld would. Brewery sites sell the kind of thing you're looking for like this https://www.brewinternational.com/we...h-flat-washer/ which has a silicone gasket and should be good up to 450° F. Either way you'd need the valve and the bulkhead fitting with high temp gasket.
Yes, I'll be using it for deep frying as well as a stock pot. I have a pump that I use for my other pots, but thought if I could add a valve easily enough I would. Unfortunately my original concerns were confirmed.
I'll search the web and see if I can find a threaded valve that is made for this.
Years ago I found a pile of milk processing equipment, including a quick-disassemble ball valve made for ease of cleaning that I later similarly adapted for dispensing honey from a large tank.
Anyway, a quick search found this relatively small company that makes and sells (directly) such products; the link below goes to a page describing and discussing food grade valves. I'd suggest calling it to see if they have exactly what you want: [T.W.'s above link looks good, too]
Hole saw a hole sized halfway between the id and the od for a stainless steel half coupler welded on the outside. Tack lightly but before welding apply Solar Flux to the inside. Clean flux off inside and apply Solar Flux to the outside and weld. Clean and install a plug for draining. If the welding is too delicate for you find an experience tig weldor and pay the money for the welding. I usually charge about $100 for these jobs.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
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